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About bluenose2

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  1. Hello Les here. I feel your pain. I have built the BB 605 St. Roch and the BB 720 Oseberg. The St. Roch required extensive research to get it right. The instructions were hard to follow. I also agree that some of the parts were not the best quality. I purchased after market to upgrade. Laser cut wooden parts can be a pain to work with. Sanding out small parts to get rid of burn marks so they can be clear coated adds to the overall work load. In the end both kits worked out well, but this company needs to do a better job with the plans so a builder isn't left guessing. Overall I would not recommend their kits to a beginner.
  2. Hello Les here. My advice is to go to a store and purchase a new one. They are inexpensive. No need for acids etc. A wire brush to clean during usage, then recycle. Simple.
  3. Hello Brett, Les back. When a model of this scale is built, gaps in planking would be extremely small. A hull could be sanded smooth. If for what ever reason you decide to stain the hull consult the records for this ship to see where it went and was decommissioned, so you can get it right. Look at the box art and decide what you want to do. Where do you want to go with this ship?
  4. Hello Les here. Sapelle is a wood similar to mahogany. If severely weathered it may turn a greyish colour if you used it on your deck or siding at home, the sun would bleach it out. Maybe not so much under sail. Captains were fairly fastidious about maintenance. If you want to make your ship look a little grubby, scuff up any painted surface that would be exposed to wear and tear. Unpainted wood surfaces would be scratched from anchors and loading of articles aboard and off board. Any paint below the water line be susceptible to worms etc. So weathering could be sanding and pealing of paint.
  5. Hello Les back. I live in Alberta. I spend my winter months building, so am familiar with working in an enclosed space. Spraying outside at minus 20 celsius is a no go. For those of you who would like to set up a spray booth in your house you require a high cfm venting system. At least 500 cfm with a 6 inch take off is what I would recommend. A suggestion would be to buy a good hood fan for over the stove and incorporate it into your spray booth. Let it run 10 minutes before any spraying and leave it on for at least 20 minutes after. Be aware that even with this set up, when your furnace kicks in you may smell up the rest of the house. Not good for anyone with respiratory issues. As to air purifiers, I use an IQ Air purifier. Just google it and see. Swiss made and the best you can buy. I run it in the hobby room in conjunction with my hood fan. It's expensive, $1000 and up. It is used in hospitals and if you purchase the one I did it removes vocs.
  6. Hello Les here. I have two very good suggestions for you. For general dust protection I use a 3M 8511, N95 dust mask. For working with voc's I use a 6000 series 3M respirator. Go to the 3M web site to see what would work best for you. Forget about the poor quality products from Home Depot etc. 3M is a world leader in this field. No I don't work for them, but when your health is a concern please have a look @ their site. Consider it a death by a thousand cuts issue.
  7. Hello Jim Lad, Les here. Good stuff. When stepping the masts on the lower deck I see what my plans show. Should I just follow and take the 1 to 1 scale measurements as gospel? What would the correct procedure be for stepping these mast so you don't get them out of whack?
  8. Hello Les here. I have been through the same rodeo. After some web searches on this subject. Here are some of the sites I have come up with. maritime,,, Or just type in on your web browser wooden model ship boats.
  9. Hello Les here. I have a question about setting masts for rigging. Should I set the main, fore and mizzen lower masts then rig the shrouds, then build and install the top masts after? Build from the bottom up?
  10. Hello Les here. I am in the current build of the 1/64 HMS Beagle. I am being stymied trying to find a supplier who has the deep sea sounding winch that was mounted on the aft deck. A most prevalent piece to be sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Hello Les here. A question. Are you able to spray the hull with an air brush or rattle can? If so this is the way to go. Simply pick a flat lacquer rattle can of Varathane or you could use a solvent based clear coat. Be aware that solvent based paints take 12 hours to fully dry where lacquer is ready in about 2. So same day workability. Blow two light coats on and give a light sand between coats. Your now ready for any paint. What I have found out with brushed on primers is they lay down too thick and your forced to sand out the finish to make it smooth before paint. If you are going to paint a hull with colours it is best to use an airbrush so you can tint the primer to a close final coat colour.
  12. Hello jbshan. Les here. I have scouted out some wood species here in a very reputable store. Their poplar is very variegated with a lot of green. Eastern Canada has a more white version. As per Matrim holly isn't available here either. Windsor plywood only carries large cuts of specialty woods. Ordering these types would cost about $100.00 dollars to do a deck from an eastern supplier. That is why a 2x4 which has a white colour was what I was thinking.
  13. Hello Les here. I made a boo boo on my current build. I followed kit instructions for the build, got ahead of my self and didn't put any bracing below deck for the masts. ?%X#*. Now I may have a big problem. Any ideas on how to secure the masts below deck? Thnx Les.
  14. Hello jbshan. Les back. Gotcha on the grain issue. As a carpenter I know full well that damp 2x4's will warp when they dry out. When building I always try to pick the ones that are lighter than the rest.
  15. Hello Les here. I have a question about after market supplied goodies for your deck work. If a ship is scaled at 1/64 would a binnacle compass or windlass etc. be out of scale on a 1/60 scale model? The reason I ask is that I don't have the skill level to build a 1/64 scale brass compass or binnacle. So I don't want to get in a position where deck items are too large or too small and ruin the look.