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About bluenose2

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  1. Hello Les here. After a big build I generally check into the Modellers rehab centre to undergo a twelve step withdrawal program. No more searching web sites till three in the morning for the correct passage set for the Captain's cabin door etc or secretly ordering parts from a supplier. I reconnect with my wife and get the howdy total stranger response. Once the sunlight doesn't burn any more I can shuffle off to the laboratory and start my next experiment.
  2. Hello Les here. My first wooden ship kit was purchased by my wife for me. A Bluenose kit by an extinct kit producer called Dikar. There was no internet at that time and any info was what I could scrounge from a book store. Not a great beginning. But based on my modelling knowledge a good kit was produced. Now we have a place such as Model Ship World that has great people and a huge data base to help us with any questions we can think of. For a beginner there is a lure to jump into a super kit right off the bat, but disaster is but a breath away. The way to kill a potential builder is get in over your head out of the gate. All of what you say is good. However there are many plank on bulkhead kits that are not too difficult for first time builders. The internet is full of info and kits for any build level. Just get out there and look at the suppliers, you will be rewarded.
  3. Hello Les here Sorry for the late reply. This product is designed to have a fast grab and set. It's ok if you don't have to relocate a part. Overall your best bet would be a general PVA wood glue. Yellow if you don't care about any issues with squeeze out affecting any staining etc. White that dries clear for attaching clear parts to sub assemblies. Just make sure you clean any glue squeeze out so you don't have come back later and try to sand it out.
  4. Hello Gaetan Les back. Yes you can rip thin strips as you say. However if your trying to consistantly rip deck planking that is 1mm x 5mm say, you have be careful extracting the cut piece out of the feed end by the fence. Dicey. This can cause chatter and leave saw blade marks on your cut. Not to mention having it sucked past the blade and zero clearance plate. Reviews of the Rockler product has been suggested by one user to purchase two of these units so the wood can be guided doubly before the blade to reduce wobble of the feed stock. I will use my Krieg feather boards to possibly do the same thing. I will put another feather board past the blade to ensure that the piece being cut does not flutter left or right making contact with the blade so as to reduce chatter marks. As a carpenter I would just like to point out how dangerous it is to try and cut very fine rips between the fence and blade. I have had all the possible things that could happen, happen. Murphy's Law.
  5. Hello Roger. Les here. I am interested in how good this unit is. My hope is that it can successfully rip 1 - 2 mm thin pieces. Are you satisfied with it?
  6. Hello Gaetan. Les here. There is a distinct advantage to ripping very thin pieces of wood outboard of the fence. By trapping 1/16 inch strips between the fence and the blade you risk shattering them or cutting yourself. For those interested in what this unit looks like go to Rockler tools. It is called the thin rip jig. Stk # 36833.
  7. Hello Les here. Belaying pin racks have many holes so it gives an option where to belay a rope or whatever. Also provides space for spare pins.
  8. Bonjour Gaetan. I am looking at making my own planking etc instead of purchasing after market products. This appears to be able to rip 1 mm thin strips. I can't do that reliably on my table saw without the danger of loosing pieces or my fingers. Hopefully this one will work. Merci.
  9. Hello Les here. Your useless tool guru. Have found a jig on the Rockler Tools web site. Take a look at the thin rip jig for your table saw. Item # 36833. Any feed back, maybe the best but who knows. It's on the way.
  10. Hello Les here. Thanks mates. Good pics by Rick 01. I sometimes think that kit makers just throw in what ever is in the bin to make a kit. It makes us spend hundreds of dollars to correct. Oh well thnx Les.
  11. Good evening. Les here. I have question about the belaying pins supplied with my 1/64 HM Bark Endeavour. When viewed in scale they would appear to be the size of a regular glass coke bottle. I have ordered replacements from Cauldercraft that are 9.75 x 1.5 mm. Much slimmer in size. Would these be a better fit? Thnx Les.
  12. Hello druxey. Les here. In general would a stern lantern have lit red? I agree that the glass or what ever would have clear or opaque. But if so what would have a ship done to make the light appear red if that is correct?
  13. Hello Les here. Some of the pictures of elm tree pumps were painted. Would this be typical or would natural be also correct?
  14. Thanx Banyan. Thats what I figured. Some models show the top of the pump higher than the Marquardt book. I will go by the book.
  15. Hello Les here. I have a question about the stern lantern on a ship. On my model of Cook's ship HMB Endeavour, the glass supplied is red. Would the glass have been clear with a red light or is this correct?