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bluenose2

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Everything posted by bluenose2

  1. Hello Les here. Ok, I have a new one for you guys. I purchased the Amati electric plank bending tool. It supplies a jig for forming curves. Have tried it out on the long boat for the Endeavour. Works great. Have used the forward portion of the decking to make a template for the planking. If you cut a form with your bandsaw it could potentially work for some compound curves. So do I need to hide under my desk in shame on this one or did I get it right?
  2. Hello Tadeusz. Les here. Question. Would all ships of the 1700's have had hammock netting? I don't see this on any ship building plans I have.
  3. Hello Les here. Thanks everyone one for the info. After building some WW II water craft it amazes me at how colourful theses ships were. The whole idea was to camouflage. I know this was a different era. I will probably build a hull with limited colour and paint out and oil items like cannons, binnacles and long boats for a colour break on deck to draw your eye to these items. Some cannon balls on deck will complete the picture. Once again thanx.
  4. Hello BANYAN. Les back here. The reason I ask for deck photos is that I would like to make this an accurate depiction of the real ship. The Marquart book does not give any colour representations of the ship other that the jacket included. So to clarify, more shots of the decks if it you can do. And what is your source? Sorry to be a bother mate. Many thanks from the colonies in Canada.
  5. Hello Les here. I have seen pictures of the hammocks stored on the rails above deck. Would this be a typical stowage? Seems to me that under sail these would get wet. Would they have been hanged up for airing or just stowed below decks?
  6. Hello BANYAN. Les calling back. I would like to know the general layout of items on the deck. I struggle with some deck items. For one thing where would the binnacle have been placed on this ship. My kit doesn't show one. Forgive my ignorance on the second question. My kit supplied cannons are a peculiar kind of copper colour. Good suppliers are bright brass. Pictures show black. Why black?
  7. Hello BANYAN. Les calling. Thanx. I am building the Corel 1/64 th Endeavour. It is the one used to check out Australia. The kit includes one long boat not the 2 yours has. Would yours be a more correct version. I would appreciate a few more deck pictures if you would be so kind. I have the Marquardt book also.
  8. Hello Les here. Can anyone tell me if cannon balls would have been stored on deck for a ship such as the HMS Beagle or Endeavour? If so where.
  9. Hello Les here. Can anyone tell me if a ships wheel such as the HMS Beagle or Endeavour would have been painted. And if so what colours. Also when a long boat or such was stowed on deck, were the oars, masts and sails etc stowed in the craft when the ship was at sea? Or stored elsewhere.
  10. Can anyone tell me if there were admiralty specs on the colours for skiffs, long boats and dinghy's in the late 1700's or was it ship specific? Also a good reference on what a long boat looked like. Thnx Les.
  11. Hello Jaager, Les here. I have started to work on the items for the top deck of the Beagle and am enjoying it. I have the Marquart book and see the things I need to do to get it up to snuff. My issue with the Snowberry was the staggering amount of etch. I wasn't prepared for the time required. Just wore me out. So as to the Beagle, the conversion work probably won't get me bogged down. The work shouldn't require as much time and effort to make some of the upgrades. After some pondering I have realized that trying to ultra detail every thing to death may just get you thrown under the bus. I took a close look at the first ship I built. The Dikar, Bluenose. I knew nothing and had no reference material, just built it OOTB. Just applied my background in plastic modeling. I know there are many inaccuracies and at a show it would get picked apart. But she's still a sweety pie.
  12. Hello Les here. Thanx everyone. Time to take a break and then work on with the HMS Beagle. No photoetch blizzard.
  13. Hello Les here. I need some advice. I have hit the wall with my current build. The 1/72 Revell Snowberry. I have the full set of DJ Parkins photo etch for this kit. It has become a struggle to stay focused on this project with all of the detail in the etch kit. I have been building for 56 years and originally though this would be a good tour de force. Now I don't know, I now just want to pack it away and really not look at it again. Should I just gut it out or should I shelve this kit for much later after a breather? I have other easier kits that I am really looking forward to build. Any help would be good.
  14. Hello mtaylor. Thnx for the info. Photo etch is a great push forward for builders as it gives great detail. Building as I have found can be challenging at best. My biggest struggle has been with building up the micro small parts into larger bits.It's starting to frustrate me. I know if I stick with it I can build a museum quality replica. Most of my issues end up being lack of information on how to do the job and experience.
  15. Hello Les here. I though I could get ahead of the game by CAing some of the parts of my DJ Parkins etch set. I am now assembling the parts and realise that CA does not stand up to the soldering process, it boils out when heated. My concern is I am now working on the bandstand for the main gun on my 1/72 Snowberry. My question. Is there a way to disolve the CA so I could solder then assemble the parts?
  16. Hello Les here. I have another question about ship building tools. Once again it seemed a good idea at the time. I recieved my Mantua plank bending tool. I'm saving time now. Tried it out, seems interesting but, it crushes the wood on the inside so you don't get a smooth curve on the outside. You get kind of get a 20 degree bend? For 1st planking it might be okay as you can sand out the abrupt bends on the outside. Any input on this magic tool?
  17. Hello Les here. Current cobuild is Darwins ship HMS Beagle. Did this ship have a carved beagle at the front of the bus or not. Any help would be great.
  18. exactamundo cog. It's called the scale effect. Those who build aircraft, armour or plastic WWII ships will add white or gray in varying amounts based on the scale to make their model look more realistic. For a good story on this go to the Finescale web site and look at the scale colour debates. A contentious issue for sure. For me it depends. On a large hull like the 1/72 scale Snowberry I am currently building I will wash the hull out a little so it doesn't look too colourfull. But other features I will paint exact so as to draw the eye to them. Depending on the wear and tear on a ship colours can vary greatly. I try to make it a mix of both so my boat doesn't look like a hag or does not look like it just sailed out after a refit. Your choice.
  19. Nice job. I build and spray cabinets for a living, so my go to finish will be a lacquer. Over a stained finish as your rudder you will not notice the yellowing as much as over say a natural finish. Gloss hulls on sailing craft look amazing and are finished in a varnish product, either sprayed ,brushed or rolled on. If you require a less glossy finish, lacquer can be bought in what is called degrees of gloss finish. 10% and so on. You have to go to a company like Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams etc to purchase this stuff. Newer products such as polyurethane, polyester and water based products produce equal or exceed lacquer. The benefit of lacquer is it dries faster than an oil based varnish. Be aware however! Lacquers of any sort are extremely volatile organic substances. Do not spray in your house without a high volume spray booth. A respirator with organic filters is mandatory. I use a 3M mask. I will still use a rattle can for small projects such as picture frames and other odds and sods. But wear a mask please. If you are considering going to the dark side look at these sites. Wood Central - Lacquer or Fine Wood Working - all about lacquers, spraying lacquers. Good luck.
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