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DaveRow

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About DaveRow

  • Birthday 04/28/1957

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brisbane
  • Interests
    Model Boats
    RC Yachting
    Americas Cup
    Camping

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  1. Hi Greg, I hell of a model you have built their. Too much for my eyes to look at all that fine detail. I'd go blind from it all. Distinction Level. !!
  2. Shipyard Update: Leech and Buntline Blocks I have been slowly working on adding the Leech and Buntlines to the yards. For the Main & Fore TopSail lines. Somehow I(someone in the shipyard ?) missed adding the Leech line blocks to the TopSail Yard Double Tye Block. So instu, I drilled(tunneled) through the top of the block, under the ropes to fit the 2 missing blocks. Above: Red arrow points to the 2 x 3mm blocks added to each Tye Block(Fore & Main Topsail Yard) At the same time I found I'd missed the a 4mm double block(Red Arrow) under the Topmast Trestle which picks up the Leech & Buntline ropes from below. There is 1 per side under the Trestle. To add the above, I moved the Lift Block(white arrow) back behind the middle arm. The new run of the Lift rope is actually better. Getting very tight up under the Trestle.
  3. Got to negotiate with the Admiral where to display the outcome. Another Wooden Boat is being considered. I have one in mind, which from what I have seen to date, has not been built much to detail. And that is probably because their is not much published detail about her. Matter of watch this space to keep the Intrigue.
  4. Hey Rod, Masts and Blocks coming up nice I see. Making good progress. You'll catch up to me at this rate....
  5. True young fella. I'm looking at the Leech, Buntlines, Sheets etc. to do next, deciding how far do I go on adding more and more rope/s work. Looking at James Lees and K.M. AoTS a few differences to decide on which way to go. Probably keep on truck'in along.
  6. Shipyard Update: Yard Tackle & Yard Tackle Falls The Main and Fore Mast Yards have a Tackle at the end of each. K.M's. AoTS has indicated a thimble at the end of the Pendant(# 11 below), which I had prepared many months ago. I attached a Double block to the thimble, however... James Lees The Masting & Rigging........ , page 71 states "The Yard Tackle was introduced about 1685 and comprised a pendant spliced to each arm with a long-tackle block spliced into the end. Up to 1706 the pendant was one third the length of the yard length: after 1706 it was one quarter the yard's length. ... The long-tackle block was retained until well into the 19th century and it was 1840 before an ordinary double block was used instead." Well the shipyard has made a bit of a bungle here and used a double block. The Tackle Falls as noted in Lees "... comprised the pendant block a single hooked block. It was quiet long........ to lower boats etc. to the water. When not in use the tackle was hooked to the Futtock shrouds and made up along the yards. The Yard Tackle Tricing Lines(outer and inner) were used to pull the pendant and fall up to the yard. etc... Fore Mast, Port-side Yard Tackle falls made up along the yard, hooked to the Futtock Shroud(below) I authorized the yard( ! ) to attach a block to the Futtock to hoist the single hooked block up to the Futtock. This brings it up closer to the Futtock than a Inner Tricing block on the yard - IMHO. The hooked block can be raised/lowered from the deck along with the outer Tricing line. The Fore Starboard Yard Tackle hanging before the Inner Tricing Line attached. Outer Tricing attached. All up not exactly as it probably should be, but works for me and demonstrates the methodology. REVISION Update to above Yard Arm Tricing Line Blocks I've added another Tricing block(red arrow'd below) to the stays - all 4 locations I had run the Outer Tricing line back through the Clew/Garnet Block(wrong) - Blue arrow'd block below. The Outer and Inner Tricing lines are belayed to cleats on the first and second shrouds of the Main and For masts. So now have 2 blocks on the stays to hove the Tackle up through blocks on the shrouds, on same shrouds as the cleats below. The ol' saying "Happy Jan" Above: Outer Tricing Line "in Red". I dropped in down below the other inner block to clear the hook block as it comes up. Inner Tricing Line "in purple" is up near the Futtock for the hook to latch onto. The angle dangle of the Yard Arm Tackle. I'm now happy that this all works better and frees up the Clew Block for more ropes/work.
  7. Hi Pat, I had three beads I had collected over time. Pic. below. The left is plastic ~3.5mm dia. which I sanded the 2 holes as they had dags on each end. Used on the 2 Main & Fore yards. The middle is plastic with a largish hole and was shorter than the dia. and I thought not really good for a parral bead. But I did use them on the Mizzen Gaff. The right was metal 2.5mm which I blackened is spherical and i used for all other smaller parrals. Used on other smaller yards. Each was consistent in size. I've since applied a clear varnish to the metal beads(shine them up) and 3D printed on the boat. brings them up a bit, any blemish, I'll take as sign of realistic wear from use. ! I got them from Art Supply stores. I drop into them when I see one, always looking for items to use. I'll look at for some if you wish... Not expensive.
  8. Taking shape well Vinnie. Glad you went to the ANMM.
  9. Shipyard Update: SpiritSail SpritTopSail Yard Rigging Took a while to rig all these ropes/blocks. All the blocks I had fitted have been used with a rope through each. Lifts Braces Clew lines Buntlines Jib Boom Outhauler and braces SpriritTopSail Halyard Above: Top view of the layout of ropes. All tied off at the back end. A few lines to work out how to spool/loop off. I count 15 ropes coming back from the front yards, Bowsprit & Jib Boom. Another wider view all them ropes heading back. Parrel on the Job Boom holding the SpiritTopSail yard below. Bunt and Clew lines on the 2 Spirit Yards Lifts up to the blocks under the Fore Main Mast top. Using a slightly lighter rope now, since I ran out of Chucks 0.45mm. On each side L/R the pair of Lifts tied off onto the rail. Bit of fun tying the knots with 2 pair of tweezers. View over the Jib Boom brace back to the SpiritSail Yard. Fixed at the end, run forward through a thimble. back to a mid yard thimble and back to bow. And now to devise a way to tie off all those rope ends.
  10. Hi Pat, They look like they will do the job anyhow Pat. I was looking at how to roll a taper in the ends. Could you of cut the linen with a triangle each side, then when rolled(with tri's at either side) would of been thin on the ends ?
  11. I'm a beginner really. So many others I see on this site doing fantastic work/creations. Thanks for just looking in and you kind comments.
  12. Hi Rod, When I thought of all the blocks and rigging to do, and that Banyan(Pat from Melbourne AUS) shared a Pic of a rigging station he had built, I decided a decent work station was needed(so ever grateful to Pat for that first pic). My Rigging Station has had a serious workout on this build. Main features which are real handy: - reels of rope and thread on spools at the back, all handy to pull forward - fixed shelf under for holding my 2 main boxes(timber blocks and metal eye bolts etc.) so their always handy - a sliding draw(black) at bottom to throw bits & bobs in - the main deck(!!) well it has all the bits that come in handy. There's a multitude of little caps to hold things, hooks, dowels, short ropes etc. that have gathered over time, each comes in handy at a time to hold, space, clamp when creating the various blocks and rigging. - But it all comes together between the 2 small clamps on the front to hold blocks, ropes etc. The space between the green and blue clamp(middle). The Essential Rigging Station
  13. Shipyard Update: SpiritSail Yards Recently been working on preparing the SpiritTop and SpiritTopSail Yards to attached and fit-off to the Bowsprit. The following of the SpiritSail Yard Made all the blocks off the yard. Started to attache each to their respective positions. My markup page from the AoTS underneath with my scratchings(what goes where and sizes). This mess, I've attached all the blocks, now setting up the horse stirrups with a brass rod 15mm(900mm full size) below the centre of the yard with weights to set each stirrup straight. Just realized the picture angle, all 6 are behind the clamps drying. I'm sure you get the idea. ! Threaded the horse rope through the stirrups, ready to tie the ends to the yard. This is the SpiritTopSail Yard fitted out with blocks and horse. Above the Spirit Yards are fitted to the Bowsprit and JibBoom. Next to run the various ropes to and off these yards.
  14. Hi Rod, Below is the process I use for making: 1. block at the end of the rope and 2. block with a rope loops to go over yards etc. (One will see what I do know is leave a short tail on the rope about the block) Description below each picture below: First I groove a blank block where the rope is to go, so it "lies" in the groove. Next I clamp the block with rope so I can work where the seizing is to go. I clamp the 2 rope ends with an electrical clamp. Next I use sewing tread. coming from the right I bring it past the clamps and hold it to form a loop, bringing it back(to the right) over the and behind the 2 ropes between the clamps, bringing it under and forward. At this stage, you could dab some 50/50 PVA H2O mix between the ropes, where the seizing is to go. Note: for block at end of a rope. The tread is wound around min 3 times to form the seizing. The thread is then "threaded"(pocked) through the loop on the left(created earlier). The thread on the right hand side is slowly pulled, whereby the loop is slowly closed up. The aim here is to pull the left thread under the "rings" of the seizing to "hide" the interlocked left and right threads(like if you were to interlock your index fingers) Hope that all makes sense.... !! Above the thread is under(or at best tightly locked) the seizing. From here you/I would use 50/50 PVA/water mix around the seizing, let it dry. Later cut the short rope end back to the seizing. At times another seizing can be added a little further on and short end cut. Now the other Pulled Loop Version: Above all the previous steps have been applied up to this stage. Note: no glue applied at all. It is hard to see, however the red clamp has 3 ropes clamped in place, 2 from the block and another from the blue clamp to the right(where the loop was made(clamped) This pic. above shows things clearly, as the red clamp is removed, showing the short rope from the block(this is the end that you DON'T want to go under the seizing when the loop is tightened onto a yard. When attaching to a yard, I clasp the sort end(with tweezers) whilst pulling the rope(on the left) to close the loop onto a yard(or what it is intended for) Pulled out of the clamps. I don't trim the thread off till on the yard, PVA mix dried. This a recent looped block on the end of a yard. ready to be tightened. I'd pull the rope on top up, whilst holding the sort rope with tweezers, or sometimes I clasp the seizing enough to let the rope pull through. Never has the short rope end run back under the seizing. The above is 2 items: thimble and a pendant attached to a yard. With some practice(after a few dozen, hundred !!) the loops/blocks end up pretty neat. Well Rod(and others), I hope I've explained the making of blocks with ropes well enough. Works for me.
  15. You have been busy Rod, Nice paddles. The remake >> better than all brass.

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