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About DaveRow

  • Birthday 04/28/1957

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  1. Hi Blacky, Looks pretty dam good that 2nd planking. A sand should bring it up nicely. Looks like you will glue the Wales over this layer ? Not sure for the OcCre Kit, the channels on my Corel kit(not that it was that great for details) and AoTS show a thicker timbers, the same depth as the channels, in line for the 3 x channels per side. How you going to attach them ?
  2. Vinnie, Good start, plenty of more to go.
  3. Shipyard Update: Top Gallant Yards for Main and Fore Masts. Got the boys to hoist the Top"G" Yards. Each had: - brace arm at each end with a toggle hole - Sling Parrel: the "loop" end was lashed onto the yard before the fitment to the mast-top - one of the horses was attached both sends(onto the sling-parrel loop and outer yard end) - the other horse just to the outer yard end, the inner end of the horse attached to the lashing end of the sling-parrel - the halyard with double block run through the back of block under the hounds Above: Fore Top Gallant Yard in place Above: Main Top Gallant Yard in place Above: Top Gallant Yard - middle of the yard with Sling-Parrel, horses and halyard attached. Above: Top Gallant Yard Halyard - each as a block and tackle, 3mm double block attached to the lower end of the halyard, tackle with a 3mm single block with hook at the bottom to an eye bolt into the Mast Top. the tackle rope down to Mast Bits. Above: Halyard Belaying - tied off to the middle of the Mast Bits(Main and Fore) to Belay Pin. What a job that was. Onto Main Yards. Had them made months ago, time to get them on I suppose.
  4. Shipyard Update: After some time fiddling about, I came up with Anchors, Bumpkin and Fish Davit on the Starboard Bow - below. All just sitting there, not glued in place yet, as not sure or happy with the layout. And I'm confident I can postpone the final arrangement, continue rigging and fit this lot later on towards the end. So all coming off and going into storage. Move onto the Main and Fore TopGallant >> Yards.
  5. Thanks for looking in Pat, Not sure about "nearly there now". So many more blocks and ropes to go.
  6. Shipyard Update: Change of tack. Back in early to mid 2016 I made the Anchors and Bumpkins and Fish Davits. Before I potentially "lock myself out"(access), thought it time to fit the above on the bow area before ropes and other work is done. So Rope added to the Main anchors and a final coat of matt varnish. Will be attaching the above to the Bow next, along with the smaller 2 Anchors.
  7. Shipyard Update: Mizzen TopSail Yard. Previously I made reference for the above as the Mizzen TopGallant Yard, which was wrong. I had also made the yard as a TopGallant, which has been rectified. Below are pictures of the new fit-out. Fitting the blocks and ropes to the Topsail Yard. Above: Left to Right > Yardarm Lift Block, Tye-Block(Clew blocks at sides), Parrel being added. TopSail Yard in place with Yards and Tye lifts. Main TopGallant brace Blocks added, tied to the front Shroud(either side) Plenty more for the shipyard to get no with. Chop Chop.
  8. Blacky, Their is a saying the final paint job is only as good as the preparation underneath. So my suggestions are: - Check the hull is fair, all even curves - no dips as these will show up on the final skin - fill any dips, sand any highs if enough "meat" to fair it out - plan out how you are going to lay the planks from bow to stern. Lining out the widths and where you are going to show the joins - their is a lot of tapering of planks, dropped strakes(planks at bow) and new ones to add in(Steelers, usually aft) - do not force a plank into place, each should lay in the space - bevel at least one(1) edge(top) so no gap exists when they laid down Confused, ? i was, but plenty of reading, prep. will help and get you their.
  9. Shipyard Update: We have moved onto the Mizzen Gaff and TopGallant Yard. The Gaff has a number of blocks and slings on it, all providing the hoisting, Vang, bracing to the TopGallant yard, Brails to the sail. Below is Gaff nearly ready to hoist to the Mizzen. Below picture of the components added to the Gaff: Fitting the Parrell to the Gaff beak. Top the 4mm JeerBlock and below the 2 x 3mm Throat Brails Mid and Peak Brails Blocks 3mm Derrick Block(4mm) Gaff Paek; a lot of ropes and blocks attach to the end. Mizzen Topsail Yard Braces(2 x 3mm) topside Fancy Line blocks(2 x 3mm) underneath Vangs Slings(2) Peak/Derrick halyard(1) - single lighter rope on top Derrick 4mm DoubleBlock is lashed to the Mizzen-cap Halyard through the Derrick Blocks(4mm) JeerBlock(4mm) with sling, around and under the Mizzen Cap. The AoTS had a fixed sling for this. I replaced it with Jeer Blocks like the Replica has. Made sense so the Gaff can be raised more easily. Vang - lower 4mm blocks with hooks Vangs(2) falls fitted to end of Gaff to eye-bolts in the quarters TopGallant Tye fall: top end rope runs through a hole under the shrouds with a 3mm double block(top red arrow), lower end 3mm block hooked into an eye-bolt(lower red arrow) The Mizzen Mast base - Halyards and Jeers running through blocks Bit of tidying up to do, but nearly their. Add the Fancy and Brails lines. All up it's taken me a couple of weeks on/off to get it all together.
  10. Thanks for looking in Rod, I have learn't so much during my build, with many thanks go to others who have shared ideas and techniques. To give back I do the same, in hope it is worthwhile for others for their builds.
  11. Hi Rod, Your Endeavour is coming along very nice indeed. I keep an eye out for updates all the time.
  12. Hi Vin, Just found your build log. Going well. Will keep a sailors eye out on it. Sent you a PM re the blocks.
  13. Hi Blacky, I can see the planks appear not to have any tapering in them ! Being the first layer, not really have to be. However in my opinion by staggering and running the planks bow to stern, the model will get a nice even hull shape. A couple of articles for interest I gathered, explain the planking techniques used if you wish to have a read whilst on holidays. The "Bluff Bow Planking" is actually an article based on the build of the Australian replica of the HMB Endeavour. The others, a general how to plank. My Endeavour was the first time I had planked a hull. So I used the first layer as a trial run, before the second planking layer. Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf Planking Project Beginners.pdf Bluff Bow Planking.pdf
  14. Hi Blacky, Although still working on the hull, you are probably at the point of considering on what your model is going to look like when finished. Whilst some timbers are left clear varnish/lacquer, other may be painted blue, yellow, red or black seem to be the most common for the Endeavour. For my Endeavour: I stained the underside of the hull to waterline, applying a coat of clear lacquer. It is great to show off one's workmanship and leave some items timber grain/color, maybe with a touch of paint. Some timbers painted black, as long as the grain is tight, comes out looking nice. Some doesn't matter as they are painted over with a scheme of colors. I purchased extra timber strips to make a lot if items as they wore not provided in my kit. For inspiration. Have a look at other Endeavour's on the site, see what finishes have been used. Hope you don't mind my rambling on.

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