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TomJonas

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  1. TomJonas

    Model Shipway Ratline tool

    Yes, but not too much!
  2. TomJonas

    Model Shipway Ratline tool

    1/65. Modelspace/deAgostini VASA
  3. TomJonas

    Model Shipway Ratline tool

    I ask because I find it difficult to get the ratlines perfectly straight. There is often an unrealistic sagging or bending of ratlines. I imagine it would be an advantage not to use a too thin or flexible rigging thread. Perhaps some stiffness would be an advantage?
  4. TomJonas

    Model Shipway Ratline tool

    A general question. Which rigging thread would you recommend for shrouds and ratlines? But perhaps there is no significant difference.
  5. I am building Corel's Amphion and discovered a substantial problem. There are a lot of 3 mm blocks in the rigging. The holes in these block are very small. It is impossible to use the rigging thread included in the kit. I bought 0.15 mm thread, but still to big compared with the holes. I even tried sewing thread (probably cotton) and the diameter seems to be even smaller than 0.15 mm, but still impossible. Women usually have more skill in puting thread in a needle eye, so I asked my wife to try. No success. She even thought the idea of putting sewing thread through these tiny holes was ridiculous and impossible. So what shall I do? Some sort of plastic material would probably be the best, but where can I find the small sizes?
  6. Good Evening, This subject has probably been discussed before, but I ask again anyway. -Is it suitable to paint die casts iron ornaments with acrylic paints for artists? I am planning to build Vasa, which have hundreds of sculpture and it would be nice to mix colours on my palette. -I suppose the colours need thinning (with water?) to avoid getting them too shining. -The metal sculptures need a metal priming Before any paint will stuck. What brand would you recommend and is there any special technique required? -Is a gold colour available among the acrylic paint? Thankyou!
  7. What a model you have built! I am planning to order Royal Caroline and your blog will be an excellent instruction book. Two questions: 1. Is it possible to get pear and boxwood from UK? I fear the postage to Sweden will be much higher from the US. 2. And is pear easy to bend and shape for the second layer of the hull?
  8. Perhaps this has been discussed before, but ornaments in brass made to look like shining gold often shine too much! So, any ideas how to make them just a bit more dull, and perhaps slightly dirty in deaper parts?
  9. TomJonas

    HMS Unicorn by Mike French - Corel

    I once built Unicorn, or rather almost built it. Just a few finishing details of the rigging was all that was left, when I suddenly stopped. Mostly because we moved to an other house, and I was fed up with the ship. But this was perhaps 15-20 years ago. Now I am retired and have som plans. Taking up oil-painting again, join the bridge club, take part in guided tours in nature, take a course with my Stratocaster. And build ship models. I have studied Model Ship World for a couple of weeks now, and seen most of what the market has to offer. But I must say Unicorn will probably be my choice once again. It was fairly easy to build and will not take five years to finish. So I follow all Unicorn-logs with great interest. Many of you make interesting re-designs, mostly regarding the decks. So...keep on rocking!
  10. maltbyguy! I will not use the brass sculptures but checked on internet how to paint brass. Tamiya Metal Primer seems to be worth a try to get the paint stuck on brass. Several other methods were suggested, most of them with various primers.
  11. Hej Matti I wonder how much I actually will use from the Corel kit. The plastic sculptures in the BB kit are considerably better made with very good details. The brass sculptures in Corel are very crude with bad details. And painting the plastic seems to be easier as acrylic paint could be used, painting brass seems to be much more complicated. If I had more mahogany or walnut strips, I could do a second layer on the hull, but unfortunately not enough left. We will see whenever I reach the rigging phase, maybe Corel could be of use. At least the colour of the rigging is more accurate rope-like in Corel. In the BB it is very pale and almost white and will have to be stained. Perhaps with a cup of tea?
  12. Matti! Everything looks great on your Vasa! I am too lazy to start a blog with all the photographywork, but my Vasa is progressing. Soon finished planking the deck and will start with the hull. I have ordered stains in mahogany, walnut and oak and hope I will get some colours right. But the bottles were ridiculously small, so I will probably have to visit a painting shop. What brand of stain did you use? Herdins bets?? Had a look at the sculptures, and realized painting them will be a challenge. Did you use brushes even for the smallest details? Or have you invented some other tools??
  13. Excellent Matti! One of my cannon ports was at the level of a frame (spant) so I had to carve a bit on it. I am planning to use my Corel Vasa hull as a jig for bending the planks. Hope it will work. When you painted the figures did you dilute the acrylic paint to get it thinner? And how did you manage to hold these small things? (Perhaps shown in your blog)
  14. Matti! I envy your patience and accuracy! I feel that I am too impatient sometimes. I struggle with the interior of the cannon ports. Did you paint anything red in the interior lining of the ports or are they only stained?
  15. You once told us about your cat. Our kitten, a 7-month-old Norwegian Forest cat (norsk skogskatt) have twice tried to take bite in the support for the bow sprit. Fortunately without success. I suppose the wood smells good for a cat too.

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