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About maaaslo

  • Birthday 06/09/1981

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  • Location
    Shenfield, UK
  • Interests
    sailing ships in generall, paper modelling

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  1. id like to come back to Danny's comment regarding foam. although you cannot see a single ship built or finished by my hands, I have completed a handful of hulls to a very good finish. thanks to construction foam. you need to use one that does not create large bubbles in the process of curing. after curing the whole thing looks like a log of foam. then I take out a trusty carpet knife and carve off roughly all excess. I finish with sanding it smooth using sound paper grain 180-240. if I want to be very fancy, I would use plaster, or wood filler to make a nice smooth surface for the first skins to go to. process creates a solid surface that is ready to work with, does not push in (this can be very annoying especially when skinning large hulls, like Bismarck or Hood, Yamato and others) and most importantly, gives it a needed rigidity. this method been used excessively on Czech paper model forums where I found it and learned it. it has been used by Martanek if I am not mistaken and Doris did contemplate on the idea (again, if not mistaken). nowadays, it has been mostly abandoned, as it violates the rules of paper modelers cups and championships. something about using paper and minimum of non-paper materials. but if you build for your pleasure, why not?
  2. Did i not say to you, its going to take you around 6months? After the motorbike, get your hands on one of the Shipyard models. Id recomend Santa Leocadia. Shipyard does edition called SuperPlans. You get your formers and majority of decor all laser cut and engraved. But it also leaves plenty of room for scratch. As you dont get all these parts preprinted, you have to do them yourself. It would look very nice. I am getting courage to start mine... and also, i cannot wait for someone to beat Doris’s work...
  3. you are off to a great start. with the kind of preparations you showing us here, it should be a breeze for you. I shall be watching with great interest
  4. Where do you live? I will be moving soon. Not much further, though... could meet up for a pint of cold beverage somewhere. I like meeting new people. Especially people with same mental disability as me:) lol
  5. Now, people who have had questions, drop them again. There is a possibility you will get answers. Montañes, great work.
  6. Besides, everyone knows how to use Google translator.
  7. It seems Montañes is not replying to our questions, simply because he does not understand. I understand, that english is main, if not the only language, this forum should be written in. But we all are loosing on the language barrier. I propose a split posts: part english, part native language of the builder. That of course only for those who dont speak, read or understand english. Parece que Montañes no está respondiendo a nuestras preguntas, simplemente porque no entiende. Entiendo que el inglés es el idioma principal, sino el único, en el que debería escribirse este foro. Pero todos estamos perdiendo la barrera del idioma. Propongo una publicación dividida: parte en inglés, parte del idioma nativo del constructor. Eso, por supuesto, solo para aquellos que no hablan, leen o entienden inglés.
  8. See, i told you, you would be done soon... job well done.
  9. Nice progress Danny. where are you going to get the Hood from? You have some place in mind already?
  10. i bought mine used for £53 on ebay. you just have to search and wait. it took about 2 months to find a good deal. i buy most of my tools broken, then fix them up. parts are mostly available from dealers... ive bought thicknesser dh40 for £54 with burned out motor. parts did cost me £112. still cheaper than most used on ebay. mp400 bench router for £52, motor burned out. parts £26. bargain...
  11. I havent placed any orders recently. Waiting for something new from Shipyard... but can order something small and add yours to it. Just let me know what and how much.
  12. Well, mine was only 6mm. Had to build them up. I used spare planking and got it up to roughly 10mm. Its out of scale anyways, but at least now it doesnt look out of place.
  13. maaaslo

    Model Shipway Ratline tool

    i have an idea... instead of tying the ratlines to each shroud separately, could it perhaps be done differently? use needle to poke your ratline through each shroud at the levels needed. for that, the ratline tool would be good. as you can tension your shrouds and you have guide on the sides for the spacing of the ratlines. then fix the spacing of the shrouds verticaly. when happy, soak with diluted glue. let dry. when dry, imitate clove hitch. could that be done?

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