Matt Cinnabar

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About Matt Cinnabar

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  1. If I might make a suggestion, another alternative would be to make a representative shot rack of each type, glue in the appropriate size ball bearing, make RTV castings, then make as many resin copies as you need. You have an unlimited supply, and there are no loose cannonballs to run around on the gun deck. Just a thought, but it has worked well for me.
  2. A substantial project. Please keep us updated.
  3. Very nice work. The copper is VERY impressive.
  4. It looks like I need to educate myself, so I just bought a copy of "History of the American Sailing Navy" on Less than $9 including shipping. Thank you for the reference.
  5. Marcus, thank you. Your reference on much appreciated. I failed to see it going through the topic. Again, I plead ignorance due to the apostasy of modeling aircraft for so many years. I do not know what you do not believe, but I am just getting back into sailing ship modelling after too long away. My current project is an attempt at turning an old Pyro "Independence War Schooner" into a reasonably accurate model of the revenue cutter Alexander Hamilton. Any advice or assistance would be a great help.
  6. Gentlemen, I plead ignorance in the extreme. I am a total neophyte here having returned to ship modeling after the apostasy of making airplanes for the last 40 or so years. Will one of you please explain the difference in rudders? I hope I can understand the difference. (I do have doctoral degrees in two separate fields. no bragging. You guys are much better at this than I am.) I have tried to research the topic, and I have come to a dead end. Please explain it to this poor biomedical engineer.
  7. I picked up a copy of the old 1/80 (roughly) Pyro "Independence War Schooner" at a local rummage sale. It was started, but no real damage done that cannot be fixed with a little work. It looks like it could be made into a fairly accurate model of the Roger B. Taney. The only problem is that there were no instruction sheets. I am sure I can do without them, but it might make things a little easier. Does anyone have a copy they can post?
  8. I am in awe of your work. Maybe some day I will try this build for the third time. (The first was at age 12 in 1965, the second at age 23 in med school. Neither attempt ended well.) I will plead ignorance for my question, but I noticed a ring and eye in the hull below the triple block forward of the foremast deadeyes. I have never seen this before, and cannot find it on my (limited) references. Why is it there?
  9. The "vinyl glue" they are referring to is polyvinyl acetate, PVA, AKA good old Elmer's Glue, or any of a dozen other brands. Although it has been used for years, being water based it has the disadvantage of raising the grain on some woods. You may want to experiment with cyanoacrylates (superglues) as an alternative.