Jump to content

David Lester

Members
  • Content Count

    327
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About David Lester

  • Birthday 10/01/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cobourg, Ontario
  • Interests
    reading, woodworking, architecture

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    MSW Member

Recent Profile Visitors

731 profile views
  1. Thanks for the kind comments everyone. Dave, I thought up the plumbers' tape idea for the hoops lying in bed one morning around 5 am. (I have a very exciting life😀.) Richvee - thank you very much for the idea of building up one whale boat before installing the davits. That's one thought that hadn't occurred to me lying in bed and I think it's a good one. See Hoss - You should keep the CWM on your wish list; it's a really great model kit. Scoot - Yeah, the plans are really pretty good; there's a ton of information on them, but it sure does take a great deal of scrutinizing to find it all. Thanks again, David
  2. Hello All: I've been working on a couple of different things: I couldn't seem to make the cast metal bilge pumps fit properly. There is a bracket on the handle which is supposed to attach to the fife rail. I couldn't see how to bend the handle to make that work without breaking it and/or creating a strange shape. So I made new ones from scratch and will use an small eyebolt to attach it at the fife rail. The picture below shows the supplied cast one and one of my new ones: (sorry, it's poorly focused) I wanted a change of pace from deck and hull details so decided to jump ahead to something completely out of sequence and turn my attention to the life hoops on the fore and main masts. There is very little reference to them in the plans and I've been unsure about how best to deal with them. So today, I've been experimenting and think I've come up with an acceptable approach. I found this picture in John's (Texxn5) build log and I hope he doesn't mind if I share it with you here: It appears that the hoops are wrapped with canvas. I know I could simply paint the hoops white, but I was wondering how to replicate the covered look and came up with the idea of using plumbers' thread sealing tape. I made the rings by wrapping some brass wire around a 5/16" dowel and then soldered them to a piece of brass strip which will wrap around the mast. I then wrapped the rings with the tape and I think it gives a pretty good result. I'll glue the assembly to the mast at a later time and paint the brass strip white along with the mast. So that's my diversion for today. I've been stalling on the hull details because there are so many different elements (5 sets of davits, supports for the roof structure, channels, etc.) all to be fitted in with little wiggle room and no room for error. The location of each seems to rely on the placement of something else and I can't seem to settle on a starting point. However I will have to before much longer. Thanks again for checking in, comments and likes. David
  3. Good Morning, My wife Nancy is generally very supportive of my model building even though it's an interest she doesn't share. However she does not find the idea of whaling as an enterprise to be to her liking, so is a little dubious about the Charles W. Morgan. You may recall from one of my earlier posts that she refers to it as the "William H. Macy." (War ships on the other hand don't seem to bother her.) Last night she made a rare trip into my workshop to see how I was doing. Noticing that I had installed the belaying pins she asked "What are all those little clubs for? Whacking fish on the head I imagine!" Oh well. David
  4. Thanks for checking in Joe and Dave! Dave, I very much want to visit the Morgan too and I'm sure it won't be too long before we make the trip. It's not actually all that far from where we live - about a seven hour drive, so quite doable as a mini holiday. When we were in the UK last year we visited a number ships and it's quite a bit of fun. David
  5. Thanks Jim and Mike! This is one of the most enjoyable models I've built yet. The kit is well designed and there is plenty of detail to get your teeth into. David
  6. Thank you all for comments and likes!
  7. Good Morning, A little update - I have finished the deck structures at the stern. I expected the skylight and the tryworks to be difficult, but they proved to be easier than I anticipated. These little "houses" on the other hand, took me by surprise and proved to be quite hard to do, and difficult to do any one aspect of them in isolation. Each step seemed to depend on something else being done first. The first step is installing the rudder- I tried making the pintles and gudgeons copper. I used styrene stips covered with copper tape. (the top one will be painted black.)It worked fairly well and it's certainly a little more forgiving than if they contrast sharply with the hull. Some components just dry-fitted, but the steering mechanism has to be installed before the cabins can be attached- Rigging the steering before final installation of the cabins- Cabins in place- More or less finished, just some details such as ladder and smoke stack to add as well as a couple of touch-ups- I'm currently working on the fife rail, which you can see in the above photo. It's just dry-fitted when the photo was taken and doesn't fit quite right yet. Once it's done, I will pretty much finished the deck details and will turn my attention to the details on the exterior of the hull. Many thanks for comments, likes and just looking in. I'm going out to get our Christmas tree later today. Every year I unsuccessfully lobby for an artificial tree as I never look forward to the effort and mess of cutting and setting up a real tree, but I have to admit when it's done, I'm always glad I made the effort! Happy holidays to all. David
  8. Ronald, If you want to have the wheels gray, Tamiya xf-55 deck tan is a pretty good approximation. David
  9. Hi Bob, Fishing line would probably have worked quite well, but it never occurred to me. The skylight is finished now and the thread worked fine, but the fishing line might have been easier to work with and would have given quite a clean result. Thanks, David
  10. Hi Mike, Thanks very much. The deck finish is a long story - it's basswood. Deck finishing is my nemesis. Basswood never takes a stain very nicely and usually comes out blotchy, sometimes even with only polyurethane. Also, I tend to like the grayed out look of decks on real ships. I'm fairly happy with how this one turned out, but it was a process that I would have a hard time duplicating exactly. I used artists' acrylic paint and mixed up a batch of a toupe colour using black, white, dark brown and yellow continually adjusting until I was reasonably satisfied. (It approximated Tamiya's 'deck tan'.) I applied it thinned down with water and after it dried I applied more over the "bad" areas that still showed through. Sometimes I would use the original taupe mixture, sometimes just brown, sometimes yellow etc. Sometimes I would apply it thinned down and sometimes full strength. Each application was an attempt to compensate for the poor results of the previous one. Before I knew it I had too much paint on it and it just looked like a painted deck. So I masked off the bulwarks and removed it all with paint stripper. It left the deck effectively stained and I was surprised to discover that it didn't look too bad, so I rubbed it down with fine steel wool and the result is what you see. I've built several models now and no two of my decks look similar, but I think this is my favourite one. I'm glad you like it too. Thanks again, David
  11. Thanks Bob! Much appreciated. Any thank you for the likes. D
  12. Good Morning, I've spent the last little while working on the tryworks and it's now finished. I used the method described by Gerald Spargo and which is available in the resources section on the NRG main site. It was a pretty straightforward endeavour. The only really difficult aspect is once you get to the top, it appears as though there will not be enough room for the pots, chimneys, trim etc. So it takes a bit of tweaking to get it all to fit. It's also a bit tricky to keep the walls plumb. Gerald advised strongly to use emamel paint for the bricks and not acrylic. (Perhaps it's difficult to wipe the joint filler off acrylic paint cleanly, I'm not sure.) So I used some Humbrol flat enamel. I understand that the top surface and chimneys are copper that has blackened over time. So I painted them with Humbrol copper enamel and then dry brushed flat black over top. I'm not sure how clearly it shows up in the pictures, but you can just see bits of copper showing through. I did the same thing for the cooling tank. So that's it for now. Many thanks for looking in. David
  13. Thank you for the comments and 'likes' I really appreciate it. David
  14. Looks beautiful Dave - what a nice little project this one is.
  15. Really enjoying this one - it's a whole different ball game than building a tall ship.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×