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David Lester

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About David Lester

  • Birthday 10/01/1952

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Cobourg, Ontario
  • Interests
    reading, woodworking, architecture

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  1. rigid ratlines

    Hi Dave, Take a look at the Charles W. Morgan build log by Spargo. He shows an excellent method for lashing the bars to the shrouds on a model. David
  2. How to display finished models

    Where did you find this video? I have visited this gallery a few times and it's really fun to see it being put together. The Thomson Ship Gallery is part of the Art Gallery of Ontario in Toronto, which is a stunning display space designed by Frank Gehry. A major component of the ship collection comprises the many prisoner of war bone models. I don't particularly like them, but they sure are interesting to see and they add another dimension to the display. Thanks for the posting. David
  3. March Month of Fellowship - Request

    Hi Joshua, I like seeing people's pictures too. So now the question is how recent must the picture be? I used to be a real estate agent, and they are a notorious lot (for many reasons) but in part for using pictures of themselves that were taken about 20 or 30 years ago. Which reminds me that I actually need to update my picture and perhaps find one that doesn't conceal my bald head quite so effectively. I wish you success with your campaign! David
  4. Prince de Neufchatel instruction pamphlet

    I have a copy of the instructions for this kit in pdf format. I'll pm it to you. In theory, his should be a relatively easy kit to build and in fact you will find it to be an easy hull to plank and the rigging isn't too complicated. However I am finding it to be a bit more difficult than it ought to be due to some poor design issues, overlooked details in both the plans and instructions and some inconsistencies. But, there are several of us building this kit at the moment, so I'm sure you'll find the help you might need to navigate some of the problems. Looking forward to seeing your progress. David
  5. Rigging Question - Virginia Privateer

    In the end, I decided to include the jackyard. I think it adds to the model. It appears to me from the plans, that this yard is rigging very much like a gaff with the equivalent of a peak halliard and a throat halliard. I added line running from the top end of the yard to the end of the gaff. I don't believe such a line would actually be there, but rather just the sail, but I needed to add it to give some tension and make the yard sit property. Many thanks for input on this subject. David
  6. Rigging Question - Virginia Privateer

    Thanks everyone for all the input; it's very helpful. I've looked at pictures of the Lynx along with many others. It seems that on a real ship when that sail is not hoisted, the yard is not there either. But on some, but not all, models without sails the modeler includes the yard. I guess is depends on how the modeler sees it. If the intention is to represent a ship where its sails are not hoisted, then you would leave it off. If the intention is to represent a ship with its sails hoisted, but for the sake of clarity on the model the sails are "invisible" then you would include it. I'll give it some more thought, but increasingly I'm leaning toward just leaving it off completely. Thanks again, David
  7. Rigging Question - Virginia Privateer

    Thanks for the suggestions Lou and Michael. I'm beginning to believe that the rigging for this yard is actually simpler than I've been imagining. I think I'll seize a block to the mast near the top and seize a line around the centre of the yard. I'll pass the line through the block and belay it to a point on the deck yet to be determined. If I'm reading the plan correctly, it appears that there is a second block seized lower on the mast and a second line seized near the end of the yard, passed through the block and then belayed at the deck as well. Although the plan doesn't show such a line, I may run one from the top of this yard to the end of the main gaff, which will put some tension on it, which may be necessary to for it to hold its position. The model in the example photo a couple of posts above does have such a line. Thanks again, David
  8. Rigging Question - Virginia Privateer

    Hi Gregory, Thanks for the quick reply, however I definitely don't believe that the plan is just showing perspective. The other yards are all depicted at 90 degrees while this one is shown at a steep angle. Also, in my web searching I can find pictures that suggest this position is correct for this type of ship, but they don't show how to rig it, which is my dilemma. I do have the Petersson fore and aft book, but the details are quite weak with respect to this yard. Here are a couple of examples of what I mean. Thanks again, David
  9. Hello Everyone, I've also posted this question in my build log, but thought I'd place it here as well. I'm restoring an old damaged model of a Virginia Privateer, which I understand to be an example of an American topsail schooner. I have a copy of the original plans and have been able to decipher most of the details, but one bit has me unsure. It's a yard near the top of the main mast and it appears to be mounted in an almost vertical position. It's not something I've come across before and it's unclear to me from the plan how to attach and rig it. I do know that where it's marked "A" it's indicating blocks. There are four shown. The one in the lower right (which actually represents two - p/s) is unrelated, but I'm not sure how to rig the other three, which appear to attach the yard in two places and have two lines which belay somewhere on the deck. If anyone is able to explain, or perhaps illustrate how to do this rigging, I'd be most appreciative. Many thanks, David
  10. Pinrail rope coils

    Hi JD, I also find these coils devilishly hard to make look half decent. The lightweight line just doesn't have the heft it needs to hang naturally. My method is similar to yours in that I use a jig to make the coil. I pretty much follow J Brent's method which he shows in the video below, but it has been only with many failed attempts that I can get even close to an acceptable result. While I don't think your coils actually look all that bad, one suggestion I might make is to make your coils a little longer, so that they're more elongated and less round, and make the loop that goes over the pin a little shorter. Let the top portion of the coil rest against, or even on, the pin rail rather than hang below it. When I belay the actual line to the pin, I only give it one turn around the pin rather than several, which leaves quite a bit more space for the coil to be attached separately. I secure it with a small dab of CA glue. (J Brent gives it quite a few turns, but I think it works better to leave as much room as possible.) I don't generally use CA glue on rigging, but this is one place where it seems to work well. I then make the coil the way J Brent does, bringing a small loop from back to front, which will be the loop that goes over the top of the pin. There will be a bit of trial and error here, spacing the nails on the jig, getting the right length for the coil. I also experiment with the number of turns around the nails, usually four or five. (I think a coil that is a bit too heavy, rather than one that is a bit too light is more forgiving in its appearance and gives a little more material to play around with, once it's in position.) I carefully lift the coil off the nails with tweezers, before having applied any glue and then apply a very small dab of CA glue on the back side of the coil at the top. I make sure that it's a very small amount to ensure that it doesn't wick through to the front, because it will discolour the line. I don't tend to use any diluted white glue on the coil, especially on the front because it seems that no matter how dilute I make it, it still discolours the line. I make sure the glue has set well before hanging the coil. I then put a small dab of CA glue on the rail, in front of the pin, place the loop over the pin and press the coil against the rail, maybe even pushing the coil under the rail in an attempt to get it to appear to be hanging straight down rather than sticking straight out which they tend to want to do. I leave long ends on the coil. Once it's secure on the pin, I cut the back one off short so that it can't be seen and cut the front one off long, about the same length as the coil. Here are some of the coils on my Constitution. The other thing, of course, is to not worry about it too much. Every ship that I have ever visited has coils hanging in a lot messier and haphazard fashion than most modelers would tolerate. Not sure if that's of help or not, and I'm not trying to suggest that I have the definitive approach (or result), but I do share your frustration with this aspect of any build. David
  11. Aftermarket yards and Masts for plastic kits

    I was surprised to discover how easily yards can be made from wooden dowels with only an xacto knife and a #10 or #22 blade. Start with a dowel that is the same diameter (or a little bit bigger) as the thickest part of the yard. Mark the major transition points and centre point etc with a pencil and when necessary make shallow cuts around the dowel at those points. Then taper the dowel by simply scraping it repeatedly, pulling the knife towards you and rotating the dowel as you go. If you have to reduce the diameter significantly at the very end of the yard, make your shallow cut around the perimeter, then make short cuts coming in from the end towards the centre. Follow up with some sanding. While you won't get results that are as perfect as turning in a lathe would produce, you'll be surprised to discover what good results you can actually achieve. You will get a perfectly acceptable result. I am no expert craftsman and got very nice looking yards right off the bat using this method. And considering that a length of dowel won't break the bank, you can afford to have several practice runs if need be. I'm give this a try if I were you. Hope that's of some help. David
  12. Christmas time again

    That's awesome! Now you just need to model "Three Ships Come Sailing In" and it will be complete. David
  13. Rattlesnake Rigging Question

    Thanks very much. I was pretty sure aft was correct. Thanks for the confirmation. David
  14. I'm nearing the end of my Rattlesnake rigging and have a question. I'm attaching the braces to the topgallant yard on the main mast. Each brace passes through a block attached to the mizzen topmast stay, then down through the mizzen mast top and terminates on one of the mizzen shrouds. My question is this - the line must run past the mizzen topsail yard. What side of the yard should it be on - fore or aft? The run looks more natural if it passes on the fore side of the yard, but that feels counterintuitive to me as it seems that it would be in the way of the mizzen topsail. On the other hand, the line doesn't run as naturally on the aft side of the yard and looks awkward. I've positioned the blocks on the stay as far up and aft as possible. The instructions, although detailed, don't address this and while Petersson shows the complete run of the line, he shows it in isolation without including the yard in the picture, so that doesn't help either. I've tried looking at photos in various build logs, but I've found it hard to find a photo that clearly shows what I am looking for. I know this is a pretty fundamental question to be asking at this point, but here it is nevertheless. Any input will be much appreciated. Thanks, David
  15. Ropewalk

    Thanks for the input everyone. David

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