Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About hornet

  • Birthday 03/27/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW Australia
  • Interests
    Fishing, golf, tinkering in the shed

Recent Profile Visitors

1,245 profile views
  1. Adding to what Amateur has explained, the shrouds were also wrapped or ‘served’ in a smaller diameter tarred rope where they looped around the mast and for some distance below the cross tree. The forward shroud was actually served for its entire length. This was done to prevent wearing or chafing of the shrouds against each other or against other components of the rigging. You can buy a serving machine from the Syren Model Ship Company (manually operated) or from Domanoff Workshop (motorised) both are listed in the SPONSORS tabs on the right of the MSW Home page. I have the Domanoff version which works well. For this aspect of rigging and many others that are often not well explained in model ship instructions, I can thoroughly recommend the book Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson. It has many great illustrations and I refer to it constantly. See below the rather dusty pic of ‘served’ shrouds from one of my models. Cheers Steve
  2. Having built a number of models myself, I know that every mistake I make, and don’t fix or replace, stand out to me (even though nobody else would notice). For that reason, if it were my model, I would sand and strip the affected area back and redo it. Put it down to experience and since you have not planked a Hull before, take advantage of the chance to practise and develop your planking skills. Take Druxey’s advice and always test your stain on a piece of the SAME timber next time. This way when you finally finish you will be much happier with your model than you would be if it is compromised by such a large boo boo.
  3. Admiralty acrylic paints (see caldercraft website) are excellent quality, accurate colours and thinned with water to the consistency of milk. Have used them for a few years and am very impressed. Steve.
  4. Ropewalk

    Hi Wefack May be a simple machine to someone with an engineering background, but to us mere mortals, building one that actually works is quite a challenge:)
  5. Ropewalk

    I have posted this before. Maybe it will give you some ideas to build your own. Steve
  6. Band or Scroll saw

    I have both. The scroll saw gets a lot more work when modelling. If you get a band saw, make sure it is a decent size. I'm my opinion the smaller ones are pretty useless.
  7. The belaying pins provided with my Caldercraft Bounty also looked more like bowling pins. I remedied this by reducing the diameter of the top section by about 50% using sandpaper and my proxxon lathe.
  8. Supply 1

    Thanks Fred, appreciate your comment. Steve
  9. Including many additions and alterations to original kit. Most deck fittings including ship's boat, capstan, windlass and skylight have been scratch built.
  10. Perseverance 10

    Best of luck with her Mark. I made a few modifications but basically it is a good, honest model.
  11. The ship on the Australian $20 Note! My first attempt at ship modelling after being away from the hobby for many years. Learnt a lot from this model - don't finish in Gloss Polyurethane & brass fittings do look better when blackened!! . It is a good beginners kit.
  12. A 'Sealer' operating in the oceans south of Australia and New Zealand in the early 1800's. Discovered both Campbell and Macquarie Islands.
  13. Not as flash as Danny's Norfolk but I'm happy with it. First attempt at copper plating and also made my own parrel beads from wood rather than use the supplied plastic ones.
  14. A small but significant player in the early exploration of the Australian Coastline. My first attempt at Joggeling the margin plank and tree nailing.
  15. After a lot of research, many modifications were made to this model.