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About hornet

  • Birthday 03/27/1959

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW Australia
  • Interests
    Fishing, golf, tinkering in the shed

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  1. Great result Graham, certainly a lot better than you would have got with flat black paint. cheers Steve
  2. Great Graham. A couple of tips when using Birchwood Casey. Make sure your cannon are free of any contaminates such as grease ( from your fingers) by soaking them in white vinegar then drying with a tissue ( without touching them with your fingers) Don't soak them in the Birchwood Casey for too long - about 30 seconds. Remove, wipe with a tissue ( some of the blackening will come off) and resoak. Continue doing this until the cannon is sufficiently blackened. I have found that submersing the cannon for too long results in the blackening not working evenly. Some folk dilute the Birchwood Casey, but I don't. I also pour it back into the bottle to reuse. Not sure if everybody else uses it in this way, but I have done a bit of experimenting over the last couple of years and this method works best for me. One bottle lasts a long time. Hope this helps you, cheers Steve.
  3. I use Admiralty paints a lot too. I agree with the 50:50 mix that Nick suggests. However, like Nick, I have come to the conclusion that for some jobs, brushing is quicker and easier. Admiralty paints provide very good coverage and finish. I have completed one Caldercraft model, The HMS SUPPLY which I painted with Admiralty Dull (metal) Black because the guns were Britannia metal. However my current build, HMAV Bounty has brass cannons. I use Birchwood Casey (available on eBay) and get a nice burnished finish. If your Victory is supplied with brass cannons, I'd suggest blackening as you get a much better finish and it is much quicker.
  4. Errrr it's Steve not Chris..... but yes I will add Bounty to my Gallery but it probably won't be finished for another 6 - 12 months. I tend to tinker with the basic kits, replacing or modifying kit parts and ropes with ones I make myself. If you haven't built many kits, I would suggest the Suppy or Bounty before attempting the Endeavour ( I have all three) as the Endeavour is a lot more complicated. You will find build logs for her on this site if you want to get an idea. The Supply is a great little kit. I did a fair bit of research and made quite a few modifications to the basic kit. The Bounty is a good kit too, not much harder than the Supply and seems fairly accurate when compared with the AOTS reference book.
  5. Welcome Fernando I've built most of the Modellers Shipyard/Central kits (see my gallery) The instructions are quite good and the accompanying DVD's are great for beginners. However, I think they are overpriced. If your mind is not totally made up, have a look at the Caldercraft range that is available from Miniature Steam Models in Melbourne. I have completed HMS Supply and am currently working on the Bounty. Their Endeavour will be next. They have a couple of 'easier' kits too. All in all good value for money and Miniature Steam Models is great to deal with. cheers Steve. http://www.miniaturesteammodels.com/jotika-models-nelsons-navy
  6. Assuming that you are putting a second layer of planks on the hull, you are going to have to be quite brutal and take a lot of meat out of those planks, you may even have to take them right back to the ply keel. It is important to take out about 50% of the rear of the ply keel about 25% each side - in a sort of triangle shape) BEFORE completing your first layer of planks, that way your double planking will sit flush with the stern post.
  7. I can see the need for using a drill, powered or hand, to drill into a solid hull, but I have never used either to drill through the deck of a POB hull for fear of damaging the deck. Much easier to cut through with a #11 hobby knife and then make small angle adjustments with a round file. Only very small adjustments are needed to achieve the correct angles and the hole is usually covered by a mast base anyway.
  8. Eddie I have been looking for a reasonable band saw myself. The range sold by Hare and Forbes seems to be worth a look Steve http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Bandsaw
  9. Hi Doc Blake. I ended up up building my own too. More satisfying. I can produce good lengths of rope quickly and easily with it. https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/14464-inexpensive-powered-rope-walker/#comment-449106 Cheers Steve.
  10. Just an observation, but why have you cut your deck planks so short? At that scale I would guess each plank should be at least 120mm in length. By making your deck planking longer, you avoid having so many joins. It also means that it is both easier to 'line up' your planks and they are less likely to lift at the ends. My advice is to sand back and have another go. It will take more time but, in the long run, you will be happier with the result. Also, I assume by your reference to WW1 Aero Historians, that you are an Aussie. If so I would suggest you get to Bunnings and buy some Aquadhere quickset pva glue. It is great stuff and as the name suggests, it sets very quickly. I would also advise that you use CA glue very, very sparingly. I only use it on copper plates and sometimes on the end of planks that have a very tight curve and need to be kept in place while the PVA sets. All the best with your Endeavour build. Steve
  11. I have just finished treenailing the deck of my Bounty. Ii is the fourth model that I have treenailed. I use a light pencil line to mark across the deck where I want the treenail to go, the end from a set of dividers mounted in a dowel handle to mark the treenail hole and a 0.5 mm drill to finish the hole. I then use a pencil rubber to remove the pencil line. I can't see how this gadget would make the job any quicker or more accurate.
  12. Hi all A trick/ technique that I use is to trace the 'false deck' onto paper and then draw up planks and planking pattern on it before beginning. Experiment by drawing up a shift pattern, say 4 or 5. If you are not happy with how it looks, flip over and redraw on the other side. You can then track/ check off on this pattern as you plank your deck. The image below is of the deck of my current build (HMS Bounty). Note that I have written the plank pattern near the bow and ticked off each plank as it is fitted. This technique may not be for everyone, but it helps me
  13. Thanks Nirvana. Places like Ivanhoe reach temperatures similar to that (in the 40's) on a fairly regular basis. I used to live and work in a place called Cobar -in the west of the state - and spent most of summer in temperatures in the high 30s and 40s. The difference with this weather event is that temperatures on the East Coast have reached similar extremes and are staying that way for days on end (we usually have a day or two of heat followed by a cool southerly change) I live only about 3 km from tha Pacific Ocean. It hit 45 yesterday and will be hotter today. Because it is so very dry, risk of bushfire is greater than at any time since records were kept. A fire at the moment would be unstoppable and you would probably see the smoke from Sweden. I will be spending the day under the AC or in the pool
  14. Meanwhile here in Newcastle NSW on the other side of the world it is in the 40's as well 45 - 46 CELCIUS (about 115 Fahrenheit) this weekend with CATASTROPHIC fire conditions. Swap ya!!!
  15. I bought an Aeropiccola plank bender about 35 years ago. Have built 10 ship's with it and it is still going strong. I usually clamp it in a vice when bending planks over it. While the one shown in the link below has a different shaped head and no spring loaded roller (as the Ralt RA5 has) I think it would still work quite well if held in a vice and presoaked planks were bent over it. http://www.hobbytools.com.au/electric-plank-bending-tool-240volt/