hornet

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About hornet

  • Birthday 03/27/1959

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW Australia
  • Interests
    Fishing, golf, tinkering in the shed

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  1. Eddie I have been looking for a reasonable band saw myself. The range sold by Hare and Forbes seems to be worth a look Steve http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Bandsaw
  2. Hi Doc Blake. I ended up up building my own too. More satisfying. I can produce good lengths of rope quickly and easily with it. https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/14464-inexpensive-powered-rope-walker/#comment-449106 Cheers Steve.
  3. Wefalck is 100% correct. I built myself a powered rope walker a while ago and the only way to get the correct diameter is to experiment. I keep a sample and written record of each rope I make for future reference. I use a lot of antique thread picked up at antique and collectable stores because I find that they are often better quality than modern threads. I enjoy playing with my rope walk so this is no big chore.
  4. Just an observation, but why have you cut your deck planks so short? At that scale I would guess each plank should be at least 120mm in length. By making your deck planking longer, you avoid having so many joins. It also means that it is both easier to 'line up' your planks and they are less likely to lift at the ends. My advice is to sand back and have another go. It will take more time but, in the long run, you will be happier with the result. Also, I assume by your reference to WW1 Aero Historians, that you are an Aussie. If so I would suggest you get to Bunnings and buy some Aquadhere quickset pva glue. It is great stuff and as the name suggests, it sets very quickly. I would also advise that you use CA glue very, very sparingly. I only use it on copper plates and sometimes on the end of planks that have a very tight curve and need to be kept in place while the PVA sets. All the best with your Endeavour build. Steve
  5. I have just finished treenailing the deck of my Bounty. Ii is the fourth model that I have treenailed. I use a light pencil line to mark across the deck where I want the treenail to go, the end from a set of dividers mounted in a dowel handle to mark the treenail hole and a 0.5 mm drill to finish the hole. I then use a pencil rubber to remove the pencil line. I can't see how this gadget would make the job any quicker or more accurate.
  6. Hi all A trick/ technique that I use is to trace the 'false deck' onto paper and then draw up planks and planking pattern on it before beginning. Experiment by drawing up a shift pattern, say 4 or 5. If you are not happy with how it looks, flip over and redraw on the other side. You can then track/ check off on this pattern as you plank your deck. The image below is of the deck of my current build (HMS Bounty). Note that I have written the plank pattern near the bow and ticked off each plank as it is fitted. This technique may not be for everyone, but it helps me
  7. Thanks Nirvana. Places like Ivanhoe reach temperatures similar to that (in the 40's) on a fairly regular basis. I used to live and work in a place called Cobar -in the west of the state - and spent most of summer in temperatures in the high 30s and 40s. The difference with this weather event is that temperatures on the East Coast have reached similar extremes and are staying that way for days on end (we usually have a day or two of heat followed by a cool southerly change) I live only about 3 km from tha Pacific Ocean. It hit 45 yesterday and will be hotter today. Because it is so very dry, risk of bushfire is greater than at any time since records were kept. A fire at the moment would be unstoppable and you would probably see the smoke from Sweden. I will be spending the day under the AC or in the pool
  8. Meanwhile here in Newcastle NSW on the other side of the world it is in the 40's as well 45 - 46 CELCIUS (about 115 Fahrenheit) this weekend with CATASTROPHIC fire conditions. Swap ya!!!
  9. I bought an Aeropiccola plank bender about 35 years ago. Have built 10 ship's with it and it is still going strong. I usually clamp it in a vice when bending planks over it. While the one shown in the link below has a different shaped head and no spring loaded roller (as the Ralt RA5 has) I think it would still work quite well if held in a vice and presoaked planks were bent over it. http://www.hobbytools.com.au/electric-plank-bending-tool-240volt/
  10. Hi Druxey. I have used heat and steam for over 30 years. However, there are still times, particularly on buff bows where you need something - planking screws - to hold planks in place until glue dries. Cheers Steve
  11. I have used the plastic ones but screw shaft tends to come loose in the plastic over time. This can be remedied, in some cases, by applying heat and melting the plastic a little so it grips the shaft more tightly. Pushpins are great on the first planking of a double planked hull but tend to damage the second planking if you are not careful. I designed some of my own using plastic clothes pegs. I have posted the method of making these previously but here is the link fir anyone who has not seen it and may be interested. Cheers Steve http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3734-planking-screws-moved-by-moderator/
  12. Dupree I have found one advertised on eBay if that is any help to you. Cheers Steve http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Precision-Router-Base-For-Dremel-Tool-Freehand-Routing-Inlaying-Luthier-Tool-/111179440399
  13. Hi PeteB I found this one on the Bunnings website. Not as good as the one above but once you add shipping to the $55 US price tag of the Stewart MacDonald version I think it would be about 1/3 the price. https://www.bunnings.com.au/dremel-plunge-router-attachment_p6373700 I found a YouTube clip as well https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oqu-Ni12oic Cheers Steve
  14. I built my own router table for my proxxon mini router, but that looks like a great addition. I will investigate Thanks Steve