Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About CPS_skybolt

  • Birthday 07/15/1935

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Boise Idaho
  • Interests
    Old sailing ships, scratch building scale RC airplanes from drawings, painting fish blanks, KOI keeper, cardstock modeling and Z guage model railroading.

Recent Profile Visitors

816 profile views
  1. Thanks Tim. I am 83 and to shaky to paint details such as straight lines. Bob
  2. Thank you all for your thumbs up and comments. I have aligned the foremast vertical with a laser. I aligned the main and mizzen masts with eyeball. Tightened all the shroud lines and glued the first thread bead on each line. I will wait to align the 2nd and 3rd beads on each line when I get to the rat lines. So far the beads have worked well. The masts are not glued in. The lines are all that hold them in place. The stays will let me adjust the 5 1/2 degree angle of the masts. I think I will have to buy special cutters to trim excess thread from the beads as I don't want those ends showing, may sand them off with my dremmel. Then again how steady am I, LOL. My first attempt making 1/96 scale rolled up hammocks. Not sure these will stay, think I can do better, much better. Edit, added note and photos: I used my dremmel with a drum sander ( used fairly smooth sanding surface ) to sand the rat line stubs and it worked, smooth. I only used it on one side. You can see the stubs on the other side in the photo.
  3. I had an idea for making adjustable shroud lines so I can adjust the vertical and horizontal of the masts. BlueJacket instructions said not to glue the mast in place. So I thought why not make shroud line beads. Plus it saves my trying to wrap the small line around and around again. this has probably been done before ( nothing new under the sun ).
  4. CPS_skybolt


    Thank you coxswain.
  5. Ron I made some notes on the start of my build. I'll add them here for your evaluation. You already know about the impossible stern waterways. Notes for future builders: When you get to the Main weather deck you have a choice of using the side with the deck structures rastered on them or using the sides without these marks. I used the sides with the deck locations marks. My experience has been that the structures and brass fittings do not overlap all of these marks but actually expose some of these marks. It does not look good. Should I do this again I would use the unmarked sides. With the great drawings in this kit you can accurately locate everything with a set of dividers. Be careful as there is a slight difference between the actual model and the drawings size. Also, The decks are marked with planks that are as long as the ship. I would mark each plank to scale lengths as it looks better. Be careful building the stern, read all instructions before assembly. Bob
  6. Thank you. I enjoy your build so much. Your drive for details make your work stand out. I use an airbrush for most work, paint brush only on small details. Use of flat paint covers a lot of blemishes. Bob
  7. Kurt H. I made my BlueJacket Constitution in 2015. I called BlueJacket for help. BlueJacket said a guy who has built this model for them many times takes calls about this kit. His name is Charlie Cook at 1 800 336 2795 9-4 Mon thru Friday. I tried to reach him a couple times ( in 2015 ) but never received a phone answer from him. Maybe you will have better luck.
  8. I completed the fore, main and mizzen masts. I placed the dowel for the lower masts in my small lathe and used 80 grit , 220 grit and a wood file to shape the taper of the masts. Upper masts are brass tube and rod. I placed the dowel for the yards in my drill and used 220 grit sandpaper to form the taper of the yards. These were easy and enjoyable to make. I used 28 AWG gauge wire for the ropes as I thought the kit wire to thick. I will set the masts in at a 5 1/2 degree slant aft. I will install the blocks on all of these next and assemble the masts with the yards before I glue the masts in place. A note here: I think both sides of the weather deck is scribed for the planks. I would not use the side with the etched marks for the components locations. Some of the items do not cover the location marks on the deck. It does not look good. You can see some of this in Report post #48. Also, I should have marked off the beginning and end of the planks. Now the planks are as long as the deck.
  9. CPS_skybolt


    Thank you Jparsley.
  10. Kurt H, Most of my tips are on the hull. You have completed most of the hard part of your ships hull. Any tips I might have made on the hull are of no value to you. Your work is better than mine. If I was making the top masts I would make them out of brass tube and rod. I am currently making the 1/96 scale Sloop of War Kearsarge by BlueJacket and that is how they make the top masts. Made of wood they are so delicate they break off with the slightest brush of a shirt sleeve or while rigging. Your art work on the stern is impressive to me. Instead of drilling out the canon barrels I painted barrel openings. After the stern the most difficult part for me was the bowsheads timbers. I never figured out how to make the timbers correctly . I did make them but was never satisfied. They ended up slightly slanted. Since they are black and the ship is black I put vertical white stripes ( I paint decal paper white then spray clear coat on. I cut out fine lines of the painted decal and apply to the ship ) giving the effect of being vertical to the waterline. I can't paint fine lines so I use the decals I make and it this works real well. I put decal setting solution on and this makes the lines settle down to the ship and look painted on. It looks good so I moved on. I am sure yours will look much better. I hope you do a build log so everyone can see your fine work. I didn't find the photos in the BlueJacket Constitution instructions very helpful as they were of poor quality at best. Their photos and drawings in the Kearsarge model I am building are very good. BlueJacket may have improved the instructions for the USS Constitution model by now ? For me the masts and yards was straight forward and easy. The rigging was also easy. Should you need blocks and deadeyes let me know, I have some left over from my Constitution build. Your work shows that you are a very detailed model builder and skilled craftsman. Study the rigging and knots used as everyone that views my ships always look at the rigging. They think it is the hard part but to me it is easy and fun. Also, I too sealed my copper sheathing and ended up painting over the copper. Big mistake on my part. The brilliant shine of copper is lost.
  11. Ken as one who has struggled through building this BlueJacket model I commend you on an excellent job. I made many mistakes but it turned out a very nice model ship. Your work on the gun deck is impressive to me. I want follow your build. I could give many tips on this model but you are doing a better build than I did. I have built many model ships but this was the hardest for me.
  12. I made the main and fore masts. The top masts are made from brass tubes and rod. Instruction said to drill three .020 holes in the assembled tube and rod for the topsail halliard. My drill bit is not good enough to cut through this so I cut slots and then soldered the rod and tube together. I put extra solder on the joint then put masts in a drill, rotated them and used sandpaper to shape the solder to match the mast tube size. I tried to free hand the slot but it was not uniform. So I put the dremel tool with cutting wheel into its dremel drill press. For stability and proper spacing I put a block under the cutting wheel as seen in the photo. I joined the rod and tube and soldered. Final mast assembly comes later in the build. A note here, to anyone building 1/96 scale ship. Use brass tube and rod for the top masts. When I made the Bluejacket 1/96 scale Connie I was forever breaking off the topmasts as they are tiny wood dowel. I broke them off several times until I put the model in its final protective case. If you look close at my USS Constitution you can see the scars. Bob
  13. Finished boats and davits. Set these aside, will be installed last. Davits are very soft metal, easy to damage. I need to make bolsters for the davits next then on to the masts.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research