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About mitbok

  • Birthday 12/10/1972

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Brooklyn, NY
  • Interests
    Ship models and sailing

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  1. Seen a lot of pictures being taken with some nice cameras. Any one going to post?! I have a cracked glass on my phone camera so all of my pictures are blurred up
  2. No surprise, knowing Gazprom is involved. What was the banned replica? Shtandart?
  3. I missed my closet days, everything was a hand reach away, cozy. Now I forget what stored where
  4. Here is what I had in my archives. Materials and artifacts were gathered at Home Depot, Ebay, Craigslist and local curbside during garbage collection days. Picture inside porthole was printed on light through film in a printing shop. Lamp and roll top desk required some work but I got them cheap. Design idea taken from Cutty Sark interior. There still some work left on the ceiling and opposite wall were I have a small countertop with a sink and shelves.
  5. I used to have a desk at my parents basement, than desk at college dorm, than there was lots of desks until I got my own studio apartment. There a closet was converted into workshop. Upgraded to a house onceI got a family so workshop area is shared with family storage in a small garage. Have two countertops for working with saws, lathes and sanders, storage for large tools, etc. for working on the house as well as models. In the boiler room next to the garage I have my working station were I spent most of the time working on the model (AKA hiding from the family). Used to be a concrete box which I remodeled in style of Victorian officer cabin. If any one interested I have some step by step pictures of the process.
  6. Bitumen that Russian are using is not pure bitumen but a patina liquid used in arts for faking antique cracklure. The process is somewhat similar to black wash that plastic modelers do to highlight detail and scribed panels. Patina liquid is put on finished wood surface (oiled or laquered), it fils the cracks and grooves, the excess is wiped off. If this liquid is placed on untreated wood, the effect is off a dark wood stain (as mentioned in posts above). Basically what bitumen patina liquid does is brings out the detail and makes the model look like its few hundred years old. In Europe its made by an Italian company Idea (Idea Liquid Bitumen #741). Judea pitch. Contains white spirit. Gives decorated surfaces an antique appearance. Excellent for darkening cracks and bas-reliefs. Apply with a brush and then wipe with a cotton cloth. Always protect with final varnish. In US I was able to get Bitumen of Judea which is a similar thing. Just Bitumen will not help you! Here is an example of Idea Patina used on a model by a Russian modeller
  7. Thank you Jim ! Thank you Jaager ! So #128 I can cut some thin brass (Thought its not recommended to cut anything else but wood on Byrnes saw) and I guess metal itself will stop the blade from flexing/wobbling. I need to take an inventory of blades that came with the saw and post them here to see what they are for. Apparently previous owner had the money to spend and just said give me everything you have and double that (I do have two of each blade)
  8. Also want to switch to metric Micrometer stop. Saw has the standard one. Is there a way to avoid buying a whole new stop and just get a metric micrometer for it. Seems like just any micrometer off Ebay will not do the trick as has to be threaded to fit Jim's thread on the stop
  9. I got the saw of a guy with almost all bells and whistles and a bunch of blades. As "hobby mills blade selection" advise shined some light on what I have there still a question of this particular blade. It is #128 .010 and it is very thin. Figured would be most economical for slitting planks but feared it will flex which it did. At this point seems useless to me but hopefully someone would hint what it is used for and how to use it. Would Zero-Clearance plate correct flexing?
  10. Seems like you have to do some navigation on the site to get to plank bending system so here is the screenshot for it: Wood Bending System 3000 Some thoughts about bending wood The most common task associated with the construction of historical ship models is the bending and forming of wood. Timber used for practically every part of a model hull must be worked to the shape required. More than 30 years ago, when my interest in historical model ship building started, I searched the related literature for everything I could find on how to bend wood. I tried every procedure suggested. But nothing seemed really practical. Some methods suggested "cooking" wood strips as a prelude to bending. Ridiculous! Equally silly - silly, that is, to me - were recommendations to use various mechanical devices to "torture" wood into shape. Crunching wood into shape did not seem to be the answer, I thought. Even raw steam, the popular method, was less than desirable for model building. To bend wood effectively, it's first necessary to understand its composition. It has, of course, a cellular structure. Naturally, each wood type is slightly different, as we would expect. But all woods contain elongated cells and a membrane around each cell that absorbs, retains, or releases moisture. Generally, wood cells absorb water through the membrane at rates about five times greater than the rates at which they release water. Because it's so important to the structure of wood, cell membrane should NEVER be destroyed. When the membrane of a wood cell is destroyed, it's only a matter of time before structural problems arise. Sealing the surfaces of cellular damaged wood with various types of finishes merely delays the outcome of cellular destruction. I use the word "destruction" because that's what happens. When wood cells are cooked, moisture within "explodes," bursting moisture*retaining membrane. Although invisible, serious structural damage does indeed occur. It remains a mystery to me where the idea of boiling wood for model building ever came from. It's certainly not found in the classical ship building literature. Shipwrights of old formed wood for their vessels in a manner quite different from "cooking." Large planks were steamed. Thinner planks were first wetted out. Then, they were weighted to shape. And, finally, a fire was lit under the wood as it was kept wet with mops and brushes until the heat from the fire and the pressure from the weight gradually bent the wood to the desired shape. No cooking. No crunching. Based on my thinking and experimenting, I developed the wood bending system that I now use in my work. The primary component is a 20-30 watt soldering iron in which I mount a forming/bending tip (#3003) for thin timber or, for thicker timber, a plank bender (#3006).The system is extremely simple. It's designed for hour-after-hour of continuous use. Wood to be bent is first soaked in cold water. One to 15 minutes is enough, depending on the type of wood. The wood must be thoroughly wet - but not saturated. It must not, that is, be sopping wet. After removal from the soak dish, after draining or "resting" for a few minutes, the wood is ready for bending or forming. For thin timber, using the forming/bending tip(#3003), heat and pressure are applied with the iron held in one hand while the other hand is used to bend and hold the wood to the exact shape required. The heat and pressure of the iron "set" the wood. Most important of all, the newly acquired shape of the wood will be retained after the heat and pressure are removed. For heavier timber, the plank bender (#3006) is used. The iron iron fitted with the plank bender is held in one hand. The wet plank is inserted into the holder on the bender with the other hand. Then the plank is gently bent down to the desired shape. Again, the heat and pressure "set" the wood to desired shape. And it remains. Using the forming/bending tip (#3003), it's even possible to bend thin wood "the wrong way." (See photo) Handrails, for example, can be formed to the exact shape required. The wood can be bent directly on a tracing of the rail shape. For modelers interested in this technique, I suggest practicing on some scrap wood. Wet and bend wood of all types and dimensions. After just a little experimenting, most model builders are pleasantly surprised at how simple*and useful!*this wood bending technique really is. The wood bending/forming system consists of a soldering iron (#3001), the forming/bending tip, and the plank bending tip.
  11. I bought a bender and plank forming tip from here: http://info.gk-modellbau.de/usa/index.htm There is some guidance on the use of these tools which is applicable for Ralt RA 5 if you open the link above. Bender is similar to Ralt RA 5 but I seem to use the forming tip 3003 most of the time.

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