Thistle17

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About Thistle17

  • Birthday 07/25/1939

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  • Website URL
    modelshipwrightguildwny.org

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Webster NY
  • Interests
    Research, kit (bashing), scratch, half hull modeling of period naval and 1800-1900 work boats.

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  1. Michael I was taken aback by this latest work of yours. Working in wood is one thing but to have a given talent and skill to work in metal is something many of us do not have. Your designs, as well, are truly an inspiration. Appreciate your sharing this with all. You set a very high bar!!!!! Joe
  2. I have decided that the deck should be re-planked with mahogany or a combination of mahogany and a lighter wood such as box wood. I think since most of the deck furniture is mahogany this will blend well. I'd like to try the Alaskan Cedar but it is a tad too yellow I think. Since one of my last posts I came across someone who had trouble gluing down planking with CA glue on ABS plastic. It was commented that the bond doesn't hold up. That is likely why I could lift some planks with a finger nail. I am tempted to try the new DAP "Rapid Fuse" 30 second adhesive. I will have to experiment before I commit to this method. While waiting for the planking material I have moved onto the deck furniture. It is all die cut ply. The curious thing about the parts sheets is that not all of the required parts are on the undisturbed sheets. Not to be outdone, the "plans" do not call them out either. The instruction book is of little help as well. I guess I have been spoiled by the current generation of plans and instructions from our US companies. They are relatively simple structures so I do not anticipate issues. I do perceive a challenge with the bulkwarks as they are missing. I plan to fashion them out of styrene pieces. The challenge is they have a fancy upper edge molding and a lower edge one a well that sits in the rabbett at the sheer line as seen in the picture above.
  3. Here is a view of the completely stripped down hull. The plastic units atop the hull are actually building forms that the cabin and hatch materials are fastened to. The smoke plastic becomes windows when the outer skin is applied. I am slowly getting through the inventory of parts supplied by the owner. Many of the deck fittings I find are missing. I will spend a good deal of time tracking down reasonable substitues for this 1:20 scale model. For example there are 28 stanchions, ships wheel, life boat, air vents and more missing.
  4. After 3 1/2 hours of "prying" deck planks up the hull is now ready for re-planking. Some planks were lifted with a finger nail, others came up with a sharp chisel and prying. The deck was sanded down with 120 grit sand paper to flatten the residual glue/wood. I believe CA glue was used but why it didn't work over the entire deck is somewhat mysterious. The original deck planks appear to have been pine. They came as an accessory package. They are 5 X 1.5 mm and 10 inches long. I am going to use some other material that is more dense and of the patina of boxwood. Oddly the directions do not suggest sealing the final deck surface, rather applying wax is recommended. That doesn't sound at all right to me for a RC model. I read on another web site that the total cost of this vessel if fully outfitted could cost as much as $1800. The base kit was $700 at the time (circa 2012) and "accessories" were priced in the $90 and up range. The wood deck kit for example was $90! I feel it was a crazy way to market this kit. One would get 'sucked in' to a big expense if they were not paying attention,
  5. John excellent thought. The mind is such a fertile ground isn't it? Can't say enough about this web site and the people who share on it! Joe
  6. I have taken possession of the partially completed model (as of this post) and will begin a more detailed inventory of parts on hand and what is missing. Hopefully Krick Manufacturing will come through on the masts and we will see what else shakes out from their inventory as I progress. This thread will be periodically updated with progress. The boat model is 54 inches long at the deck level and 13 3/8 inches of beam. The masted height will be approximately 64 inches. The hull is of high impact molded plastic. The keel is weighted with what appears to be lead. At this stage the model weighs about 45 lbs! Of note on closer inspection it has no transom I will finish it off in mahogany most likely. The deck is partially planked and although there is some extra deck material it is not sufficient. Also some of the deck planking has lifted as the adhesive used has dried up. I am planning a strip down of the deck planking and I will begin anew. Below is a picture of the model as is. I have mounted it on a shop cart as it will necessarily have to be moved around due to it size and work access. The second picture is where I am headed. My client wishes the model to remain static so although there are some RC controls on board they will remain inactive. (Those dangling ball and claw legs in the background are for a distant project). Joe
  7. Pat I think I understand and that is where I am headed with the I gauge attachment to the fence as my digital indicator. Standby it is going to take awhile to do it correctly. Joe
  8. As i was backing out of the MSW website I stumbled across a March 2013 posting by Michael Mott on the same ripping technique. Take a look at it. It is simpler to build and elegant in its simplicity. I wish there was some easy way to cross reference similar if not same threads. Maybe we would not be re-inventing the wheel so much! Joe
  9. John I took a look at your "buy boat". Great job! It is going to be a beauty. I have long had a running romance with work craft of New England and Chesapeake Bay area. I have done detailed half hulls of a skipjack, a friendship and a Newman Lobster boat. I also have the Model Shipways SkipJack to build some day. I will be following your build with great interest. And no I did not take your comments negatively. You just gave me more impetus to work on the digital measurement method. I have talked with Jim Byrnes and am likely to mount the I gauge as is to the saw base instead of the table. I am likely to leave it at its full 12 inch length instead of cutting it to match the table. I am thinking I can "park" it further out of the way when not in use by doing so. Standby I will be working it over the next few months....I hope. Joe
  10. I understand your dilemma John. I am approaching this problem another way using an I gauge digital readout device that will be attached to the saw. Its not my idea, one of our members has done so and I will adapt his idea to suit the set up either side of the blade. The reason I liked his idea was that I can zero out the starting point and measure in mm or inches with relative ease. Without this attachment I am doing it by trial and error. I set it with my digital calipers as close as I can get the plank width. then I do a trial cut a short distance into the wood and measure it. And adjust until satisfied. Joe
  11. I started out making a more refined and I thought simple, more durable version of the prototype jig I started with. Well it turned out a bit more elaborate than I envisioned. I get enjoyment from making jigs and tools as much as I enjoy making the work products. I designed it on the fly and maybe that is why it turned out as it did. Tthe picture below is a final version of the jig. The base is 1/8 inch plexiglass. I used this material for its relative flatness over other choices. The miter bar I purchased from Model Machines. It is a 3 hole version of the miter bar that comes with the saw (not in his catalog). The center hole of the bar was drilled and tapped to 8-32. The outside holes remained at 4-40 thread. The 2 cherry bars fastened along side the movable center bar were added to increase rigidity of the bar as material passed by (I noticed slight rotation when the stock was not quite parallel on first pass to true up the stock. I added a brass pin at the nose of the adjustable center bar to stave off undue wear. The jig will still be clamped to the table at setup just inboard of the saw blade such that the piece to be cut is free to fall away from the blade when cut..
  12. In reflection I think many of us find that internet information is free and so abundant that we forget that there are costs involved in the creation, maintenance and hosting. I am largely responsible for our Model Shipwright Guild of Western NY web site and I appreciate what everyone involved with this site is doing to keep it alive and well . That is why I donated and will keep doing so. Users of this wonderful repository of information should start looking at this site as a "TOOL". As others have mentioned we spend freely on the physical tools for this passion. Why not here? This site is so powerful that I now find that nearly every day I visit it to learn, be inspired and connect with others. In the past we were all pretty much isolated modelers. Look at us now!!!!!!!!!!
  13. OK I got it. Sometimes I get a" brain cramp" and get locked onto a path of thinking. Joe
  14. Thank you for the response. Now I have to ask are some of the responses regarding sanding a plank edge or sanding a plank width? I think we are getting some mixed messages. Just trying to clear this up and move on with the right set of suggestions as I am focused on machining accurate and finished plank widths. Is everyone else on this page? Also I am modifing the jig I created to a much simpler form. As soon as I hear back on my thoughts from a supplier I will put it up here. Joe
  15. Just testing my understanding on sanding planks to thickness using a thickness sander. Is Mike Zemmel suggesting bunching up a group of planks and running them thru the sander edge wise? Joe