Jump to content

Thistle17

Members
  • Content count

    247
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Thistle17

  • Birthday 07/25/1939

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    modelshipwrightguildwny.org

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Webster NY
  • Interests
    Research, kit (bashing), scratch, half hull modeling of period naval and 1800-1900 work boats.

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    NRG Member
    MSW Member

Recent Profile Visitors

706 profile views
  1. That was a great response Rusty! I have not had a reaction like yours but I am not surprised by what happened to you. When I am working on any wood milling projects big or small and I start sneezing it is a warning for me. Case in point I bought some BNM(Bud Nosen Models) mahogany for the project I am working on. It is not like any mahogany I know and it has a weird smell when cutting, almost perfume like. It too was a warning to me to be careful. Joe
  2. I will always remember Portia Takakjian, the noted and talented researcher, illustrator, author and modeler died at the age of 61. I believe it was from emphysema. I was told, some time back, toxic wood dust may have been a contributor. Just google the web for the lists on wood toxicity, they are out there. I am particularly sensitive to this danger as my mother died of the same affliction at an early age. She worked in a fabric mill in her early years when there was no OSHA compliance. Most wood dust of 1 micron or less particle size gets into lungs and can create havoc and disease. It is always advisable to wear a dust mask or respirator and to collect the saw dust. Most dust collection systems now advertise particle capture in the one micron range. Whether that is true or not I do not know. In addition my shop as well as many others is in the basement and the house air is conditioned by heated/cooled air. It is so easy for those particles to make it into the HVAC through duct voids etc. and that ends up in the living area. So the long and short of it is take saw dust control seriously. Joe
  3. Walnut or other similar uniform dark brown woods?

    Mike just a few added comments. I received an order from Wood Project Source just last month. It came within 2 weeks of order placement. If you are of a mind to mill your own lumber look for a "Makers" operation in your area. You can go in and rent the machine time. Surely in metro DC there is one as we have here in Rochester NY. Joe
  4. Wood strip

    I have purchased from Roman (Wood project Source) on a number of occasions. I just received a recent order this week. He delivers and delivers a good product. Try Chuck's connection suggestion.
  5. Saw blades for Byrnes saw

    I believe his saw blades originate with any manufacturing company over there that makes screw slitting blades. Over here one company is Thurston. Hope this helps.
  6. I think I understand the motivation to hold NRG Conferences in different venues for the fairness to all members in the US and those abroad. I have to say I have not attended a conference since Buffalo NY due to a number of life reasons. But did so prior. Yes it is getting expense to attend and I suspect that is some of the reason for low attendance. I would also offer that the MSW site may even be dissuading members from attending. To me this site has become one of the greatest resources for information sharing that exists. Let me suggest that one way to engage more members is to consider either a live web cast and/or a recorded session for purchase through the NRG Store. I do not know what the break even point for having a session in a major metropolitan area would be for NRG but maybe, just maybe, a measure such as this could help defer those costs.
  7. Hard to communicate this way Doug but I will try. If you have not already done this look at page 120, the Backlash Upgrade procedure, in the manual mentioned prior. It also refers to Page 11 in the mill assembly instructions to facilitate the adjustment, if that helps. Joe
  8. Doug there is a "kit" in the catalog that allows one to retro older mills. P/N 5011U for the inch version. I found it in the book Sherline Accessories Shop Guide. The book is loaded with how to info as well. The metric one is 5111U. Joe
  9. Atlantis by Thistle17 - Robbe

    Thanks for the feedback Stephen this paint saga really set me back weeks. I was so angry with the outcome I even had to walk away from the project for a few days. I will never use the Rustoleum product again for something like this. As I search the web I find we are not alone on this problem. The folk's advice at the auto finishers store is the way to go. Please join in here if you are so inclined. It is helpful to hear from others. Also if you don't have a genoa kit I have one by mistake and will sell for a reasonable price. It is complete and unopened save the shipping box. See the ad on this web site under items for sale.
  10. This past Thursday the model of the USS Langely arrived at the Udvar Hazey Center. The display signage was not yet ready but it is on display for all to see. The attached picture is of Bill E, on the left, the modeler and Chris Moore, the Curator of the Museum.
  11. Sherline recommends this for their mills and lathes so I too don't see why this isn't a good choice. Joe
  12. Atlantis by Thistle17 - Robbe

    The next stage is to finish paint the inner bulkwarks and begin attaching some of the deck fittings. I have all but decided that I will start from scratch to build all the deck furniture. The die cut pieces are inferior in size and the material quality is equally poor. Some parts are even missing and don't show up on the drawings I do have a side project related to the model. The client wishes to display the model in her year round home away from home. It's resting place is on a second floor loft area that dictates a special table. I will incorporate the stand as part of this table so as i think of it I have to set the model aside and begin that aspect of the project.
  13. Atlantis by Thistle17 - Robbe

    In another thread on this site I said I would pay more attention to the pictures I take. I fibbed a bit. I wanted to record a milepost for the client (and any one else interested for that matter). The model hull has reached a painting milestone. If you have been following along on this thread you know I didn't hide my failures on this stage of the project. The painting journey was awful. There is no better word for it. I did finally overcome the crazing/wrinkling by spot priming the areas of concern and repainting that entire surface again. I was going to paint in the gold waterline but I lost my nerve as a result of the previous set backs. The waterline is 3M Scotchcal Striping Tape (1/4 inch). It is so easy to work with. Just pull back the backing paper (as you go) and purposefully lay it down. Press firmly only at the beginning and continue on. If you have any misalignment it lifts relatively easily and can be reapplied. The directions indicate that you must rub it down at the end with a soft cloth and over a short period it will fuse to the surface. There is a top clear layer that can be peeled back. It is there to protect the tape during application.
  14. First Resawing Adventure

    Pretty impressive work Cliff. May I ask what saw blade (teeth per inch and width) was used and if you noticed any after market blade guides such as Carter? Joe
  15. Atlantis by Thistle17 - Robbe

    This is a further update. I had success doing what I thought was logical. I wet sanded the affected areas, applied the Rustoleum primer and let it sit for 3 days. I painted these areas this AM (70+ degrees, low RH). It worked!!!!! Why their customer support didn't suggest that is beyond me. I'd like to pass on something I learned about automotive masking tape. In all the masking/unmasking and repainting I find I much prefer the following: - 3M Precision Masking Tape #06525 (this is 1/4 inch)(light green in color). It has a semi transparency to it so when laying it down one can see the correct placement point through the tape if the colors are contrasting. - 3M Automotive Refinish Masking Tape (No # on roll)(Yellow in color) These exhibit excellent line separation with no "leakage underneath and they are relatively thin in thickness so there is a very fine ridge at the intersection of colors. I found the Scotch Performance Masking Tape 233+ of lesser advantage in comparison. Joe
×