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About davyboy

  • Birthday 12/03/1940

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Binningen Switzerland
  • Interests
    British naval warships 17th and 18th centuries. Travel in S.E Asia. Reading.

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  1. Hi B.E. I have 7/8th" approx. Difficult to be exact as shrouds,guns and guntackles are in the way. I can't get my vernier in so had to use 2 bits of wood and a pencil mark. Hope this is of use to you. Dave
  2. Hi B.E. Thanks for that,I did think that 1/8th" square was about right for the swivel posts. The gun carriages were not too bad to scratch,I glued the carriage profile drawings to suitably dimensioned wood and cut them on my mill. Just a case then of slicing off the required number of sides,the rest was easy enough,just took a bit of time. The worst for me was making that tiny skylight,broke several window frames doing it The port shroud ratlines are done,now doing the stbd side. Not my favourite job as I've rheumatics in my right thumb and wrist and also the left. What with that and old mans shakes tying clove hitches with tweezers is not funny 😥 I like your dish of goodies but you'll need a bigger one for the rest of the guns Dave
  3. Hi B.E. I too made jigs for both types of carriage. I scratch built mine and was very surprised how many separate parts there are,30 pieces altogether I think not counting gun tackle blocks. Never mind,you've only got 11 more to finish Currently progressing the Topmast standing rigging but can't finalise the Topmast shrouds as I'll have to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds first (my pet hate) for easier access. A question if I may,what dimension do you think should Swivel gun posts be,6" square,9" square ? I can't find any info in any of my books. I tried some 1/8th and 3/16" squ' (1/48th scale size) and prefer the former as it looks more realistic. As usual keep up your excellent work. Regards, Dave
  4. Hello Ed, That second last photo WOW. Looking at that one could almost believe you are standing on the deck of the real ship. Wonderful work indeed. Kind regards, Dave
  5. Hi Stergios, Assuming your mast cap is not yet glued on here's what I would do. Get a piece of wood of the same size as the masthead,sieze your shrouds around that then just transfer them onto the masthead. No chance of doing any damage to the model then. Dave
  6. A very nice Companionway BE,I take my hat off to you making working hinges for it. I managed to cut out the fwd corner bits on my main hatch grating without doing any damage. Took quite a while after drilling 3/64" holes right through the decking then filing out the pieces,luckily I have some very small square tapered Jewelers files 1mm x 80mm long to do this. regards, Dave
  7. davyboy

    Masthead trucks.

    Hello Druxey and Dowmer thanks for your replies. I've another pair of faux sheave holes to drill now,will go for fore and aft. Dave
  8. Masthead trucks usually had a sheave for flying a flag or pennant. Does anyone know what the sheave orientation was ? Fore and Aft or Athwartships. Thank you. Dave
  9. Thanks for that info Moab. Looks like I'll be spending some money again Dave
  10. davyboy


    Wefalk,perhaps I should have written bend the wire around the pin ensuring the two ends are inside the tube slot,silly me. Dave
  11. Hi Pavel,I'm not knocking Dremel but I bought a model 398 which came with kit of accessories 10 years ago. I found it very noisy and also having too much vibration and bulky. I have hardly used it at all. All my power tools except my bandsaw are Proxxon,quiet with no vibration. Maybe I bought a bad one,who knows,but once bitten twice shy so to say. BTW,I've no connection to the Proxxon company. Dave
  12. davyboy


    Wefalk, I wrote "hold the wire with pliers and spin the tube" Sorry no pic,I thought this was self explanatory. Dave
  13. davyboy


    Hi Svein Erik. What I did was get a piece of 3mm tubing,cut a slot about 10mm long drill a hole right through at 90° to the slot of the diameter I want the eye to be. Bent the wire around whatever pin,drill shank etc diameter to get the size of eye I wanted. Hold the wire with pliers and spin the tube. I can make dozens of eyebolts in a very short time. I have several of these for making different sized eyebolts. No need to butcher a pair of longnose pliers as has been suggested. Incidentally a spun up eyebolt holds much better than the single shank ones. Dave
  14. Hi Moab Interesting,I wonder if it's an updated/reissued version of his book "Building the Wooden Walls" published by Conway in 1991. The design and construction of the 74 gun ship Valiant. I have this book,the contents sound very similar. Dave
  15. Hi Stergios,here is a little cheating you can do. The shifting and standing backstays are the same size of rope,use a long enough piece and sieze them around the masthead thus you have two of your stays for each side. I would make separate breast backstays unless you can do or imitate a cut splice and fit them under the other 2 stays. There is nothing in Lees about serving these stays but that doesn't mean they were not,up to you there Dave

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