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About davyboy

  • Birthday 12/03/1940

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Binningen Switzerland
  • Interests
    British naval warships 17th and 18th centuries. Travel in S.E Asia. Reading.

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  1. Always cut outside the line,you can then sand/file the parts to obtain a good fit. Dave
  2. I've been using Swann-Morton #26 unsterilised blades for donkeys years,also use the #21 and #25's occasionally. Much prefer the larger size of these blades to small blades. Incidentally,I just use my fingers to change these blades and have never cut myself doing so. To remove,I hook a thumbnail under the end,lift then push forward a bit and slide blade off the handle by gripping the back. To replace,grip the back then slide new blade on 'til it clicks in place. That's how I've always done it without injury. Dave
  3. Hi Brian,your age is irrelevant go ahead and treat yourself Funnily enough,my Admiral said exactly the same thing to me when I came home 3 weeks ago with a Proxxon FET table saw. Enjoy your new "toy" Dave
  4. Hi Capn Morgan, The tackle R11 is called the Lateen Mizzen Yard Bowline they were rigged on both Port and Stbd sides. The tackle at the aft end of the yard is called a vang,they were also rigged in pairs Pt and Stbd. A rope was clove hitched around the yard peak,a long tackle (fiddle) block was spliced in each end and connected to a single block hooked into an eyebolt in the quarter piece each side. Have to say this,that rigging plan is rubbish. Get the book JCF mentioned or get Andersons' 17th Century Rigging IMO a better book,with better line drawings etc. Also usually easily found on online booksellers lists. Rigging really is fun,honest Dave
  5. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Went into a shop in Basel this afternoon to buy some thin Copper sheet,got it then went downstairs. There it was,a Proxxon FET table saw for sale at a good price for here. Took me about 30 seconds of yes,no,yes,no,YES to buy it,now the happy owner my Xmas pressie from me to me I already have the KS 230 saw but it does tend to stall when cutting Boxwood (European) or Pearwood above 3/16" thick. I'll finish setting my new toy up tomorrow and give it and myself some practice. Regards, Dave
  6. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    Hi Julie Mo,haven't you heard of the expression "Double Dutch". Was and may still be used in England for something which is incomprehensible. My apologies to Carl by the way Dave
  7. The "What have you done today?" thread.

    AAARRRGGGHHH, what with this and text message speak as well So glad I learned to read real words at school in the 1940s Dave
  8. Hi J.C.F, how true. Methinks it's a case of a "look what I've got competition",some people have more money than common sense. Dave
  9. Is Crown Timberyard still open for business?

    Hi Ron, If you decide to order wood from Deutschland check out www.massiv-holtz-werkstatt.de also. Frank Horschig has no problem with orders in English. He has a very good selection of timber and is not expensive. I do all my ordering by email and pay by bank transfer. No connection with him,just a very satisfied customer. Dave
  10. Hi Cal, The Caldercraft Victory is 1/72 scale and they also manufacture Cannon in that scale and probably also gun carriages. I've just looked at Cornwall Model Boats website and they list Caldercraft Cannon at this scale. Dave
  11. Boomkin Question

    Hi Chris, Here is what Lees writes verbatim "usually the boomkins butted against the beakhead though sometimes they butted or were bolted against knightheads on either side of the bowsprit,this latter method being used mainly after 1800". He does not mention anything as to how high they would have been mounted. Unless some other forum member can give you better info,I guess "its up to you *. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Dave
  12. Micro mill and planer

    Hi Haliburton, Sorry but I don't have any pics. So far I've made the gratings,gun carriages,pump bodies and milled mast/yard sheave slots for my Cheerful build. I intend to make all my own blocks and will fit sheaves in all but the smallest. I also made my mast coat using the mill. I've really enjoyed doing this plus it saves one money. My next buy (when I can afford it) will be a lathe. I could kick myself for selling my Unimat SL back in the 80's when I stopped modelling. Regards, Dave
  13. Micro mill and planer

    Hi there Haliburton,you should definitely buy the MF 70 mill. I bought one earlier this year and wouldn't be without it. There are only 2 extra accessories made for this tool AFAIK,a rotary table #24264 and a machinists vice #24260 and they're not very expensive. Dave
  14. Hi Gregory, Thank you for posting that drawing. My plans were bought from Chuck back in 2015 and do not have the amendment you show which is of course a revision. I could not understand why no means of applying tension to the Topmast stay was shown on my plans. My problem is solved. Once again thank you. Kind regards, Dave
  15. Hi Gregory, Thank you for your reply. My Plan #2 (for the standing rigging) distinctly shows the topmast stay fitted to the Topmast as would be normal,no block nor tackle is shown. Yes,this plan shows the Topmast Backstays are attached to a tackle,perhaps you could be mixing the two up or you have a different plan to me. Plan #3 (for the running rigging) only shows 2 blocks on the Topmast ,these are for the Topsail yard lifts. The list on this plan also quotes only the rope size for the Topmast stay,no mention of blocks nor rope for a tackle for this stay. Kind regards, Dave