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CharlieZardoz

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About CharlieZardoz

  • Birthday 11/17/1978

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Queens New York
  • Interests
    Model ships, wooden and plastic focus on US Navy and Star Trek universe. My ultimate goal is to scratch build the USS Congress, Minnesota, Cumberland and United States.

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  1. CharlieZardoz

    1:70 Hannah - Ship Model Okumoto

    Hmm that's a bummer if they don't. I did message them though. I'm wanting to make a plank on frame of Hannah at 1/64. Alot of the newer companies do offer plans to buy I've been slowly collecting them and converting the scales so those templates on this model would be just what I need.
  2. CharlieZardoz

    1:70 Hannah - Ship Model Okumoto

    Hi! Do you know if they sell the plans alacarte?
  3. Good morning! Decided to do a mini-update today I added all the treenails to the finished side of the hull. Basically I the process was poking them out with an awl then filling the hole with colored putty (which I darkened with paint) then used the colored pencil to define the area a bit more and here is how it looks! I know some of my steelers are a bit off location but that will be colored with copper anyways. I realize now that the nails are effectively showing where the ships frames are (an obvious concept but I now I see the logic behind it). Next step now will be doing the other side hopefully won't take me nearly as long
  4. Hi all! I totally forgot I put this one together and thought I'd share. It's a Talos style size comparison chart of various small ships schooners etc. I was going to wait and add the HMS Swift as well but figured ah let me put it up now and see what you all think (Swift would be just a bit larger than Berbice). Look at how small the 31 Doughty cutter actually is!
  5. Thanks Mark! Thats only because you dont see the pile of rejects I made could make a whole other boat with them
  6. Hi all! Sorry its been so long been toiling away on planking and just finished the left side. Since the shape is so wedge shaped on this boat alot of planks needed to be spiled. That said it taught me alot and I think I did a reasonably good job for a first timer. Now starting the treenails using an awl, colored putty to fill the holes then a color pencil to add some detailing. Got more to go but thought I'd share
  7. Yeah in some ways you are right. However I think its relative to the subject matter. The larger 80 ton hull I have is pob and I simply do not have to worry about hull shape. However adding some balsa wood between the frames can be a nice way of adding structure after the shape is ready to go. But I do think solid hull helps the novice understand things about woodworking they may not if their only experience begins with plank on bulkhead. And especially for small hulls and simple hulls like this one it taught me alot.
  8. OHey msw folks! Thought it was time for a new update. Every day I add a few more planks you can see where I am now. The drop plank is in place at the bow and looking like I will need at least one more. I feel like there may be some minor crowding at the bow which I think is the result of such an extreme form bending the planks a certain way and assuming it looks as it should. Pretty much all of the bow are spiled planks so getting them just right is a learning curve as well. I initially layered the planks in a step fashion like you would a deck but looks like it was more random so going to mix it up for the last bit.
  9. Ok so here is how I placed a steeler. The main planks are 7/64" thick so I used slightly thicker 1/8" inch and shaped the edges to meet. So basically the steeler and two surrounding planks were made together then assembled on the hull. Will do the same with the drop plank which is next.
  10. Ha! That's a nice one! Well here it is now with two new spilled planks and while I think I did a fairly decent job with the cardstock to wood I am noticing the planks look slightly thicker when curved toward the bow before tapering inward. I don't recall cutting them thicker so I think it may be the natural effect of wood curving and wanting to straighen out. That said I realize that drop planks will be necessary to avoid crowding. Likewise the inclination of planks at the back means a few Steelers as well. But overall it looks decent er I think
  11. Thanks Mark. I am really liking the way its looking so far. Here you can see the curve up to where the transom pieces will be. Also using walnut shade wood filler I've been filling in any tiny spaces left between the planking. Thin it out with some water and you it does the trick. Next up is to finish the planks in the front. To make the spiled pieces I will use cardstock forst to make the shapes then transfer over on a veneer sheet.
  12. Here you can see the rough estimates of where I will have the planks end. I am using the rule of every 4th repeating via the diagram below. This makes an interval between planks of about 3/4" an inch or 4' maybe a bit small but thought doing every 3rd plank would not look as neat. The planks themselves as stated before are around 17' the lower planks are not cut since they will be covered in cooper however I did use pencil lines to get the overall planking pattern down so things look as they should. This is all very new for me so having the lower planks detailed like this means I can practice then potentially cover up my learning curve with copper plates
  13. Hi all. So here you see the next plank below the wale is done and the wood strip was cut into 3 pieces each about 3 and 1/16" or about 17' real life. The front piece was spiled from a wider plank to get some shape to the hard curve the back was tapered slightly to make room for the transom. From this point itll just be a matter of the planks meeting in the middle. The stern definitely needs steelers/drop planks. The front will need more tapered spiled planks. I may modify the shape of the existing planks a bit depending on how the next strips naturally bend. The wale ledge to the planking material might be ever so slightly steep but I wanted it very pronounced since many issues I've seen with this model is that the wale is not raised enough and blends in. Since this whole area will be painted black that contrast should be nice and pronounced.
  14. Hi. In this instance I am treating the wale as one piece. In reality it probably would have been more though in my mind I was picturing a ledge and once the holly strip is laid over it, any indication will be covered up. I will stagger the holly piece and the decking but good observation!

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