wernerweiss
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Everything posted by wernerweiss
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Hello Kenny, imo there is no alternative to unglue the false deck from the bulkheads and add some spacers.....is it the same on the starboard side? I have had the same problem with some bulkheads, and the opportunity to fix the problem is now, later on no way.....makes the deck planking much easier. Werner
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Hello Rick, thank you very much for your appreciation! 1. No, I didn´t use any whitewash or special wood at all, I just used the provided 1/8 x 1/16 inch basswood stripes. The only treatment was sanding the deck when finished. 2. As red for the bulwarks (Schanzkleid in german) and deck fittings I used red ochre as recommended by Caldercraft especially for period ships, see the pictures below. It is easy to find when you google.... I hope I could help you Werner
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Dear modelers, tomorrow my last post is exactly four months ago, and there is much progress with the model. The ship´s boats were placed only for the photos and are not yet glued. I intend to have the model finished soon, because the next model is waiting.... Comments and questions welcome. Greetings Werner
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Marvellous, gorgeous, fantastic, amazing.......!
- 103 replies
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- Frigate
- Confederacy
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Hi modelers, here the next steps to be posted.....the middle rails and the cathead support knees are done, the framing for the head grating is done, and I started with the grating timbers. Note the additional stripes along the framing and the main headrails as a support for the framing timbers. The cathead support knees were notched instead of removing the hull molding stripes. Greetings Werner
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Hello 3DShipwright, Thank you very much for your invitation, I am deeply impressed by your work. As a builder of the MSW kit I am highly interested in your project and look forward to your progress. Best regards Werner
- 103 replies
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- Frigate
- Confederacy
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Hello Harshil, thank you very much! It is DEFINITELY the most trickiest part, especially the curved sections of the middle rails between the bow sections and the support knees of the catheads. The adjustment to the curve of the hull and the transition to the knees demands patience....actually I'm working on the starboard side. Regards Werner
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Hello Ian, you' re on the right way, the plan is quite simple....."just" fill and sand and fill and sand and....until the hull looks like made of plastic without the slightest indication of planks.... My way was as follows: when I was content with filling and sanding, I gave the hull a coat of parquet lacquer. When it was dry, I polished the hull with a polishing disc on a drilling machine Regards Werner
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Hello Ian, The sheer from the center towards the bow is right and there should be a sheer toward the stern as well, but this is not as distinctive as the sheer forward. I would say there is no problem if you build a flat deck in the aft section. I suggest to have a look on the models of Peter Beisheim or Rüdiger Eschker for example....
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Having just glued the head timbers on my Confederacy I will never fear sanding any more....😄
- 734 replies
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- speedwell
- syren speedwell
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Hello Nate, as one of many builders of the Confederacy kit from Model shipways I look forward to follow your build of the 3D model. Best regards Werner
- 103 replies
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- Confederacy
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Hello Harshil, I agree that the window frames provided with the kit are not of the best quality, and I see that scratch-building them ist not at all a problem for you.... I accepted the provided frames as they fitted perfectly into the openings. What I did was to order another set of frames (thanks Model shipways) to double the frames of each stern and gallery light with the acetate inbetween. As you may see in the pictures showing the openings for the stern lights I glued a 0.5 x 0.5 mm stripe on the bottom and top edge (not visible) as a rabbet for the inner frames. They were glued first, then the acetate and last the outer frames. In other build logs of various models I saw pictures where the builder depicted the window glass with micro crystal clear, and I preferred the acetate..... Regards Werner
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Hello modelers, with this post I continue the gallery with the latest pictures, but first some remarks: Even if you build very carefully, for example the bow curve of the finished hull may differ from that of the prototype. Due to the bow curve of my model I had to make the shown adjustments with the cheeks to fit on the bow curve. The laser cut cheeks turned out to be too straight, so I hat to reshape them with a rounder curve to fit to the hull. Regrettably the cast trailboards were not inversely equal. The starboard trailboard was a bit longer, thicker and wider than the port one. This is not what I would call high quality. My next step will be the installation of the main head rails. Between them runs the so-called head beam, and sheet one shows two knees connecting this beam to the main head rails. These knees are not mentioned in the instructions, so I have to decide whether to omit them or not. At the end of chapter 15 on page 134 it is suggested that the catheads are glued in place. I would suggest not to do so at this time. In the next chapter the main head rails are installed and for that purpose an appropriate angle has to be sanded at the corners of the beakhead bulkhead showing towards the stem. This is much easier without the catheads as an obstacle for the sanding tool. See yourself, questions and remarks welcome.
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