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toms10

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About toms10

  • Birthday 09/18/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Connecticut, USA
  • Interests
    Soccer, Marine reef aquariums

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  1. We the day finally came, all the sail rigging is complete. The only things left to do is rig the cutting stage, attach the davits and then rig the whaleboats to the davits. Sounds simple enough…..yeah right!😂🤪😜😁 The light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter! 😁 Tom
  2. Sails on the foremast installed and rigged except for the braces. Time to start on the main mast sails. Seems like there is always something cropping up to be done. I still have to install all the davits and whaleboats! I don’t think this model will ever be completed! 🤪😂 I am hoping to finish in time for the Northeast Joint Conference ant the end of April. Allowing for life getting in the way it is going to be very close! 🤪😜😁 Tom
  3. Hi Allen, Yes you are correct. You need to have bare wood for the stain to soak into the wood. You can seal it afterwards with urethane or shellac if so desired. There is a product you can apply to wood before staining called a leveler. It is a watery substance that is intended to help level out the color when applied to wood with coarse or varying grain texture on large surfaces. I don’t think it is necessary with the types of wood we use and relatively small surface areas. Tom
  4. All the fore-aft sails except the gaff and spanker sails are installed as well as a furled fore sail. I will continue with the fore mast yards and work my way aft. Tom
  5. Finally got my first sail up along with the fore yard. All the hanging coils of rope waiting to be belayed will slowly start to disappear and become orderly…..I hope. 🤪 Tom
  6. John, I ended up cross tying the battens just for appearance. I think the knot adds a bit of realism instead of just a flat intersection of the batten and the shroud. The port side is complete! Only another 268 more to go on the starboard side but who is counting! 😂 Hope everyone has a great holiday season. 😁 Tom
  7. Hi Brian, I just cut off enough line to get from where the line starts to where it gets tied off and then add about another 1 1/2” for tying off to the belaying pin. One end is usually fixed to a block or eye, then run through whatever blocks are hanging under the tops, trees, etc. the loose end is just coiled up by wrapping it around my finger and then putting a small strip of the sticky note pad paper around it to kind of keep things organized. I also write down what line it is on the paper so I don’t have to go back and retrace which line is which. Tom
  8. Hi John They are glued in place. I may cross tie them later just for appearance. Tom
  9. Managed to get all the lower rat lines or should I say “rat slats” since these are wooden. The upper ones will be rope so I see many clove hitches in my future. 🤪😜. Actually at 1:96 scale, I think I will do some test lines to see if the knots will look too bulky. The rats will be done with .005” diameter thread to maintain scale but I don't want the knots to be the dominant feature. The picture is a bit cluttered in the background and there are coils of rope with labels hanging everywhere but you get the idea. 😁 Tom
  10. I make mine out of silkspan. As mentioned earlier, material is a bit too much out of scale at most scales used especially if you are going to use a sewing machine for seams. There are some basic instructions on how I make them on my Leopard and currently in progress Morgan builds. Dre the links in my signature. Tom
  11. Hi John From what I read, I guess early on they used to carry the gasket ropes up with them when furling sails. I guess somebody got smart and just left them tied to either the yard or jackstay if there was one. Tom
  12. Managed to get all the sails except for the main and fore course sails bent to their respective yards. Also made some gaskets and hung those from the jackstays just for some added detail. Here are pics of the fore sails. and a close up of one of the gaskets. Still have to do all the hanks on the stay sails and bend the top gaff and spanker sails to their yards. Seems like their is always something else to do when working with sails. Tom
  13. Finished up the silkspan sails except for the main and for courses. Those two will be at least partially if not fully furled so as not to obscure the deck details. I used 3 layers of 00 (fine) silkspan which I believe is the thinnest. It measures about .002” thick. The center ply has lines drawn with a 3H pencil to simulate the cloth seams. The outer two layers are painted with Liquitex spray paint (unbleached titanium). I sprayed one side of the center ply with ordinary spray adhesive and applied a painted piece to either the starboard side of the staysails or the aft side of a square sail then rolled it flat with a wallpaper roller. I then trimmed the painted ply to match the center ply. For the other side, I repeated the process except when trimming the excess, I left .060” all around. This excess flap will wrap over and hide a .010” copper wire that will be used to form the billowing shape. Just an ordinary fabric glue or 50/50 white glue works. I then glued all the various tablings using Liquitex matte medium. Aft we all was done i went over the sail with a warm iron to flatten. Bolt ropes are then glued to the edges using fabric glue. I believe my build log for the Leopard has a more detailed explanation for making these sails. The only difference is the center ply on the Leopard is regular 20# copier paper. With this project at 1:96 scale, i wanted to make the sails as thin as possible to keep somewhat to scale. That is why I used silkspan for the center ply this time. I guess the next step is to bend the sails to their respective yards, then mount the yards. Happy Thanksgiving to my modeling friends in the US. Those outside the US have a great day as well. Happy modeling, Tom
  14. Very tragic news indeed. My deepest sympathies go out to Donna and the entire family. I never met Jim but it is easy to see that he was someone that made the world a better place. Tom
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