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Nicholas Carey

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About Nicholas Carey

  • Birthday 12/06/1966

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gillingham Kent
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, radio control aircraft, landrovers(!!!) quad copter flying,
    Scale model boats

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  1. Team After a visit to Rob( what a brilliant chap!!) at the model dockyard in chatham, despite his kind words and encouragement I came home and stripped the 1st planking off. The formers need a quick sand and ready to start again! Some advice please!!! Shall I fair in the formers with balsa all along the hull and sand to shape before starting again?Of course Jason, you are again right- the front former infill wasn't close enough to the walnut bow- I'll make another piece for each side that ends@2mm from this.I feel that fairing all the formers would give me a nice surface to glue too, and I can see the high or low spots and sort them before starting? What's your thoughts? Also- shall I cut a rabbet line now for the top planking only ( inside the walnut) or for both sets of planking- or not bother? You will remember the keel ply is 3.5mm thick- if I do a rabbet line- how deep( again- looking at the tutorials here the rabbet line comes from the formers to the walnut keel. Any ideas welcome! Right- off into the garage to smooth off the old planking marks! Cheers team! Brett
  2. Jason, Chris Thanks chaps- sound advice both! After reading and then having another sift through the planking tutorials, I have decided to strip it completely off and start again. You both are absolutely correct I think in the fact that the bulkheads need some " filler blocks" between them . Will strip the first layer off and try again! I'll post some pics when I'm ready to start again- thanks guys! By the way- my lovely wife has ordered me a set of three tungsten carbide files(from permagrit) and I'm hoping these will help a bit!
  3. To be more eloquent: The rear of the hull feels and looks ok- around the bow Area- the planks aren't rounded- they seem to want to go flat between the bulkheads giving some sharp changes in direction despite having chamfered the bulkheads. I pulled the last plank I laid off as it really was bad- they are starting to want to give an upwards arc midway through the hull. I had read I should never cut the plNk down to more than halfway, but at the bow end, as you can see, they want to naturally come to the same point- hence the " pointy ones!!" Having said that. Trial laying second planking is easier, and they feel nice and rounded over the primary- as they have a solid surface to follow( even if som filler and sanding is needed in this surface before second planking) hence my ask- should I just carry on? To get a good next plank on the right hand side feels as if I need to leave a gap between the last one of @ 3mm, then start again working down- then fill this gap. Really not sure!
  4. Hey team Procrastination rules! So, I've been having a go at planking. Soaking the limewood for about an hour, then laying on bulkheads and gluing. It looks awfull. I have not got a smooth flow for the first planking- does it matter, or will filler sort this? I'm not sure if I should strip it all off and start again- was expecting the planks to " flow upwards at the bow" but they don't " feel" right- I have some lumps that I can feel with my fingers- so- all ok I thought- just sand and fill- or do I start again after seeking advice!! Anyone have any hints please?
  5. Thanks Geoff! Next task is to chamfer the bulkheads as described before- I'm not sure as to what to do- however there are some good downloads to print and read from this site. It's a bit daunting- but it's only wood I guess!- can always add more if I goto far- not the most skilled approach but hey ho- will be an experience! Thanks again team for all the support. This shipbuilding isn't as easy as I thought, but, with this encouragement and some time it will be no problem :-) I guess my main challenge is the procrastination as it's something new- if it were a tiger moth wing set they would be built and sanded by now... Ships take far more skill and my hat( if I wore one) comes off to you all- exceptional people!
  6. Have been playing with the brass window frames. My lovely wife is going to glaze them with Perspex supplied.1 done so far- will do all 5 before gluing- Perspex goes in from behind and buts to brass frame cross with some canopy glue
  7. Thanks Jason, the encouragement is much needed! Yes you are absolutely correct, I need to chamfer the bulkheads next... However... My flying buddies say to use blue or insulation foam in between the bulkheads to give some strength to the hull planking- I've used it before to make nacelles for a scale Whitney bomber before( my grandfather flew them in the war- he crashed his into Lundy cliffs, poor chap). Easy to sand and strong - anyone any thoughts? In the meantime whilst waiting for the front deck to dry after being clamped( again- brilliant hint Jason) I made the rear deck skylight- took me a while and then sanded with 2000 grade wet and dry. Not sure about the glazing- cc supply brass frames and sheet Perspex , but I will need to deepen the laser cut frames to fit the brass and Perspex sandwich- going back to aircraft I will use canopy glue in this- dries clear and sticks to everything!!!
  8. Thanks captain! So., on an earlier thread I mentioned that I had stupidly sanded the keel, stern post and bow piece to the same thickness as the false keel(@3.6mm), thus taking out the " natural rabbet line". After so many helpfull and kind replies to my challenge, I've decided to proceed as is! Time will tell if this was a good move. I had problems pinning the decks- I didn't want to hammer too heavily onto the structure even after driling pilot holes- so- as the pictures show, I made a piece of thick ply to act as a flat section and clamped the rear deck under this after gluing( on one side as the deck curves) then, when the alphatic resin had dried, repeated on the opposite side. The deck is absolutely flat along its length after this- allowing good deck planking. If anyone has any hints on how to pin ply decks to ply bulkheads, I would be extremely gratefull to hear from you- my method is very caveman like and worked, but I feel my skill set isn't growing!
  9. Thanks for that- it makes me feel a WHOLE lot better! I've decided- fit the ply decks- then have a look to see what I've got- some pictures to come on this- thanks again - gave me some much needed encouragement Brett
  10. Chaps Thank you! To be honest I've built numerous aircraft in the past, but, this is my first venture into this fine art of boatbuilding, I really thought I would have it planked and resplendent by now rather than in its sorry state! I really appreciate the help and advice- what a GREAT forum! So, some excellent ideas, I'm really not ready to " start from scratch" again after having spent a good time with 2000 grade wet and dry making the keel etc and false keel a perfect thickness to each other! :-) Tonight, I think open a bottle red, write down some ideas based upon your really helpfull suggestions and map out the way foreward. Thanks team- it really has given me a boost today reading these posts Brett
  11. Chaps I purchased the chatham kit a week or so ago, and have run into my first problem! I'm a radio modelled by background, and tend to build " as per plan" I searched the included plans and decided to sand the keel, bow piece and stern post to the same thickness as the ply keel. Big mistake! I then read johns build log, and got depressed as it looks like the walnut SHOULD be thicker to but the planking too! I'm sat staring into space thinking- do I contact jotika for new bulkheads and walnut parts and start again - or does anyone have a bright idea or want to tell me it's fine, and life will go on!!! Cheers Brett
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