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About russ

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    Biloxi, Mississippi
  • Interests
    Reading, research, and ship modeling

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  1. Ron: I like the edge details on the thwarts. Very nice work. If there are imperfections, I cannot see them. Russ
  2. Ron: Nice details. I like the edge detail on the seat. Your use of hand tools always gets me thinking. As for the mast step, I would go ahead and make a new one. You might find the other one, but it would take longer than it would to make a new most likely. That is how these things always work for me. Russ
  3. russ

    Boom rigging question

    The stirrups are those vertical lines that hold the foot ropes (the lines that hang below the yards) to the yard. Lashing the heels of the booms means simply wrapping the thread around the inboard ends of the studding sail booms (parts 165, 167,169) and the yards so that the booms do not move. Russ
  4. That photo was in Plank on Frame Models and I recall Underhill writing that it was taken very late in her life and that she had spars that were too long in the photo. Russ
  5. russ

    Lanyard Dilemma

    Check out the photo of Ed's model of the Young America. He whipped the lanyards to the shrouds. I would think that would be the way to do it. Click on the link and scroll down the page to see photos. Russ
  6. russ

    Making block

    I am not sure if there is a tutorial, but I make small scale blocks by carving and shaping them on the end of a strip of boxwood. I layout the length of the block and then drill holes for the sheave with a drill bit in a pin vise. I use a variety of 4 inch jeweler's files to shape the block and details before cutting if off using a small razor saw in a hobby knife handle. The razor saw blade is shaped like a typical number 11 blade except it has saw teeth. Go slowly cutting the block off the stick. Too much pressure will send the block flying into the next dimension, never to be found. This method is much like what Harold Underhill described in Plank on Frame Models. It takes some practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can make several blocks in one sitting. Not long before you have several small jars filled with enough blocks to rig a model. Russ
  7. That is a good decision. You can spile and taper your planks to fit perfectly using wider sheets. I have used basswood sheets this way and had good results. Russ
  8. The straight strips in a kit can be spiled and tapered a bit to get a solid and good looking planking job. I am currently restoring/repairing a model of a Baltimore Clipper from a kit that was built about 30-35 years ago. Everything was glued with some sort of cyanoacrylate, probably a gel type glue. It had the thin veneer strips over the plywood surface on the bulwarks. They were laid on straight with no tapering or spiling. The result was awful with raised edges everywhere. Add to that the CA had failed almost everywhere. I am replacing the veneer strips with similar strips I have collected over the years. I am spiling the edges to create a smooth planed surface along the bulwarks. I am also tapering as needed to make everything fit better and look neater. These strips are your typical kit veneers, about .020" thick. I am using a sanding stick to spile and taper, but emory boards could be used. It is not a quick process, but the results, while not great, are gratifying. Here are some shots where you can see a little of the original planking (it came off in my hands) and some of the work I am doing to replace it. I am using carpenter's glue rather than CA. The first and last photos show my work while the second and third are of the original planking. Russ
  9. Ken: Your model looks great. Nice work turning it into something special. For my part, I vote for fully rigged, but then....I always vote for fully rigged. Russ
  10. Sometimes it is something even simpler, just a quick jig for a simple task that I can make myself in a few minutes. Nothing to wonder at, but it beats spending the money and then waiting for it arrive. Problem solving is one of the things I like about modeling. Russ
  11. Mike: Have fun. She looks great and I look forward to seeing more progress. Russ
  12. I totally agree with what has been suggested. If that is the finished garboard, it extends too far up the stem. You will run out of room for the rest of the planks to fit at the bow. I strongly suggest you take it off and give it another go with the end of the garboard sitting much further down. Good luck. Russ

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