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russ

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About russ

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    Biloxi, Mississippi
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    Reading, research, and ship modeling

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  1. There is also John Earl's Bluenose II practicum. It was the Artesania Latina kit, as I recall, but his methods are well worth looking at. I do not have his website handy, but it was free to look at. Russ
  2. Looks very good. I will be interested to see the rest come together. Russ
  3. Dave: Another good method would to use a tick strip. Just a piece of paper or cardboard where you can mark reference lines. Lay the strip onto your plan and transfer the top of the profile former (for instance) onto the strip and then transfer the reference line at one of the frame locations. Now, lay the strip onto the profile former piece, lining it up with the same frame location and the line for the top of the profile former aligned with the top of the profile former piece. You can then transfer the reference line mark onto the profile former. Repeat at several frame locations and you will have marks through you can strike a line for the reference line. This is easier to do than to explain and it is very accurate, provided you take the time to accurately transfer the marks. make sure your pencil is SHARP. Russ
  4. Here on the Gulf Coast, there would have been a rod bolted to the upper aft end of the board and led through the deck. To the upper end of the rod was attached a block and tackle, the upper block of which was secured to a pendant that led to the main mast head. The tackle was handled from the deck. The centerboard tender would control the board per the captain's orders. Here is a crop from a 1920s photograph that shows the typical centerboard arrangement. Russ
  5. Richard: Your model is coming along really well. Great work. I would go with Chuck's plans on the bowsprit angle. However, to my eye, your angle looks about right. If it jives with the plans, then go with it. Russ
  6. It will be finished in the fullness of time. That is what I tell people when they ask about my models. Russ
  7. Kenneth: You are making good progress. The head rails look good as does the figurehead. My only concern is with the top rail when viewed from ahead. The starboard side is longer than the port side, but if they are at the same level otherwise, I think it will be okay. The upper ends of the top rail meets the cathead I think, so I am guessing you will trim them off when you install the catheads. Russ
  8. Rich: Your boat is coming along really well. Good work. I would start hand sanding at this point. If you use a rough grit, it will not take long to finish the hardest parts and then move down to 220 grit and the 400 grit to finish it off. Russ
  9. Chuck designed this kit meticulously so I will be surprised if it gives you any trouble with fit etc. Have fun. Russ
  10. Your work is beautiful. I like the large scale and the level of detail it afford. I always like these small, little known working vessels. Thanks for sharing. It lends a lot of much needed inspiration. Russ
  11. I remember building this model about 28 years ago if I recall correctly. This build takes me back in time a bit. Nice job on yours. Well done. Russ
  12. That plan is Howard I. Chapelle's redrawing of the US brig Syren. She was built in the early 1800s and was in service during the War of 1812, when she was captured by the British. This plan is one of the plans he drew for the book. The History of the American Sailing Navy. The original plan from 1803, found in the National Archives, was used by Chapelle as the basis for his redrawn plan. Russ
  13. Kurt: My money is on Beech. I recall Dr. Feldman had good things to say about its scale resemblance to oak. Russ
  14. Maury: Sorry to hear about the errors. I have been there. It taught me to never trust any drawing, but redraw and refair everything. I strongly support Druxey's advice on diagonals. Just when you think it looks right, draw out the diagonals and many hidden problems can be fixed. On a centerboard hull, being shallow draft, I would advise, in addition to the horizontal waterlines, three or four buttock lines and the same number of diagonals. The buttocks will help fair the floor timbers down low in the middle of the hull. Without them, there is little to tell you anything useful below the lowest waterline. The diagonals in the body plan should run so that they cross the body sections at places in between where the waterlines and buttocks intersect the body sections. That will pick up those areas that the waterlines and buttocks do not address and give you several more points of intersections to ensure a fair drawing. It is a lot more work, but it will pay enormous dividends. One thing to remember about the diagonals, and you have probably already seen this, the diagonals, when projected in the halfbreadth, will appear as convex curves or perhaps in some areas close to straight. However, they will not show as concave or hollow curves. This is because they approach the body sections at, or nearly at, right angles whereas the waterlines intersect at all sorts of shallow angles. Good luck with the redrafting. Russ
  15. Jim: The bulwarks area looks like it is coming along well. Nice work. The stern area you pointed out has some issues for sure. I agree that the outer frame pieces look like they need to have their lower curved edges trimmed back to match the curves across the rest of the stern. I cannot see how the cross planking of the stern can be done unless those lower edges are trimmed back and faired withy the rest of the curved area across the stern. That said, I would look at what others have done with this situation. Check out other Fair American builds here on MSW before you do anything drastic. I would also check the filler block below the transom. The aftermost section of it falls short of the transom, but it needs to fill that area so that the after ends of the planking have something to land on so that they will be flush with the lower edge of the cross planking of the transom. Russ

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