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About russ

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    Biloxi, Mississippi
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    Reading, research, and ship modeling

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  1. Great work. The sails do look very good. This is an impressive accomplishment. Russ
  2. The jig looks good. If it holds the hull stable and you are comfortable with it, go for it. As for planking intimidation, do not worry about the entire planking job. Deal with each plank in the first strake. And then each plank in the second strake and so forth. You have your marks on the hull, so concentrate on shaping one plank at a time. Make each plank fit the space you have lined out for it and the entire job will fall together on its own. Russ
  3. Get them to replace whatever is warped. That profile former is warped and you will never be able to get that warp out completely. Others have tried and it is far better to get a new component from the manufacturer. The idea of using wood blocks in between the bulkheads to force the piece into straight can work. However, I would get the replacement piece first and see how that goes. Russ
  4. Ken: The mizzen rigging and the sails look really good. You are doing a great job. Russ
  5. Lawrence: I think what you have right now is about complete. The staysails could be there, but it will not hurt to leave them off. As you say, you can see more deck detail without them. I would leave it as is. You have built a fine looking model and should be proud of not only the journey, but that you have reached your destination. Congratulations. Russ
  6. Your Bluenose II came out beautifully. Congratulations on a great looking model. The deck details are nice. Russ
  7. You could get better deck planking material at Hobby Lobby as well. They sell packages of premilled basswood strips that are ideal for decking. No scary edges to deal with. Russ
  8. Thanks. I am pleased with how it is going. Working with the margin plank tonight. Russ
  9. Those deck fixtures are coming along well. Very nice details. I like the two toned wood selection. Russ
  10. Thanks for the kind words. I am using basswood instead of plywood. Those stanchions are exposed along the inside of the deck so they have to be solid wood instead of plywood. Plus the basswood sands a lot easier than plywood. Russ
  11. This is a very fine looking model. You did a great job. Congratulations. I will look forward to your next build. Russ
  12. Pat: Thanks. There is a down side to this. I use commercially available pre milled sheets and on a larger scale model this would mean more wood to be used, but the rewards outweigh the costs. Russ
  13. Congratulations on a splendid finished model. Well done to you and the sailmaker. Russ
  14. The bulwark stanchions need to be trimmed down about 1/16" square or nearly square. Here is an instance where a choice that I made early on has worked in my favor. I decided to have the grain of the wood on the bulkhead frames run vertically. On the schooner model, I had it running horizontally and I had several of the bulwark stanchions snap on me. I decided in that case to make the stanchions as separate pieces that were glued to the inside of the bulwark planking. That worked but it was extremely fussy work. On this model, I really wanted to have the stanchions as part of the bulkhead frames so I chose to cut the bulkhead frames with the grain running vertically. The stanchions are much more rigid and they were fairly easy to trim using a small razor saw. This worked so well that I think I will follow this practice on subsequent models. Here is a photograph showing their appearance after trimming. Not too bad. Russ