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    • Dubz

      Hello fellow modellers   02/04/2018

      We would like to present on our Facebook page more regularly pictures of your work. If you would like to participate, and we would appreciate that as we wanna promote the forum this way, please visit https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17711-your-images-for-our-facebook-page/

    • kurtvd19

      An Incentive to Start A Build Log - New Plan Set from the NRG   03/17/2018

      An Incentive for Starting a Build Log

      The NRG’s Generic East Coast Oyster Sharpie plan sets have been selling out – we had to reorder prints 2X already.

      BUT nobody has started a build log yet.  As an incentive we have decided to reward the first three (3) MSW / NRG members who purchase the plans and start and continue* actual build logs** from the plans. 

      The build logs should be started in the scratch built forum and labeled with Generic Sharpie – by “your ID”.  When we have six or more build logs up and running we will set up a group build area for the Generic Sharpie build logs.

      The winners will be able to pick any one of the prizes listed below:

      Free registration for one day at 2018 or 2019 NRG Conference                  ($145 value)

      Shop Notes 1 and 2 set                                                                         ($60 value)

      Nautical Research Journal – all content set                                              ($145 value)

      4 CD's or 1 flash drive         

      Continental Galley Washington Plan set                                                    ($65 value)

      1 year NRG membership or extension                                                      ($50 - $62 value)

      THE RULES

       

      *“Continue” means that multiple posts containing build log content must be made for a minimum of 30 days after the initial post.  Logs will be tracked by starting date and the first 3 that have continued for 30 days following their initial post will be declared the winners.

      **Note the words “actual build logs” – no fair showing a few pieces of wood and going no further just to win. 

       

      The NRG has a new set of plans available for purchase with a free 200+ page full-color monograph .  Check the NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD NEWS forum below for details.  This plan set is developed for the first time scratch builder with limited tools and experience.  All materials are standard strip stock available from hobby wood suppliers.  However, it is also a great project for the more experienced builder looking for a smaller project to take a break from the bigger builds.  Remember MSW Members who provide us their real name are considered members for the discounted price.  An email or call to the office before you order with your real name and MSW user name before you order is needed for the discount code.

russ

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  1. If you have some experience with balsa and can make it work, I would go with it. I do not use balsa as I have never had any success with it. But go with what works for you. If the experiment fails, then little has been lost and you can try something else. Russ
  2. John: This is likely because you are not going to click like on your own posts, but on other people's posts. I cannot see a like button on my own posts, but I can click like on other people's posts. Russ
  3. Pavel: You should really fit the false deck and then plank it. It would be far more difficult to bend the planked deck in both directions if you plank the false deck before fitting it. Russ
  4. Pavel: I have never had much luck with mahogany. It tends to be brittle and open grained; not a good choice for scale modeling, generally speaking. I would think a lighter colored wood for the deck would be more appropriate. I have planked decks both ways; using full length planks and leaving open spaces into which hatches and deck structures would fit. Leaving the open spaces is more tedious in laying the plank but it makes it easier to get a nice fit around the bottom edges of deck structures. When laying the full length planked deck, the reverse is true. It is easier laying the planks, but more difficult getting the good fit around the bottom edges of the deck structure. Which you use is based on what you think will work best for you. Russ
  5. Pavel: I do not know much about these kits, but I would definitely strip plank the deck and add the grating. The deck planking can be premilled strips. I use basswood regularly and, while it is relatively soft, it can be made to look very good. I shade one edge of the plank with a typical number 2 pencil and get a nice caulking line. You can also shade one end of each plank for a caulking line there as well. Make sure you get an accurate centerline marked on the deck before you begin planking. Once that first plank is laid along the centerline, the rest should line up well. You can also buy premade grating strips that can be put together to form the grating. You may find that you need a light framework around the grating, but you can use some planking material for that. You can get the strips and grating from an online supplier if you do not have a hobby shop nearby. Russ
  6. Greetings

    Mike: Welcome. Another source will likely be the National Archives. They will most likely have the plans for the Corwin, if they exist. They would be housed at Archives II since they handle plans, photos etc more than Archives I. You should also consider speaking with the US Coast Guard. They might have something on her, or maybe just some hints about where to look. Good luck. Russ
  7. Good plank on bulkhead option

    Eric: Do not let the size and nature of the Syren kit cause you any misgivings. The plans are excellent, the instructions are first rate, and the most challenging part of the build, the framework of the hull, will be much easier because the components are likely to fit very well and be easier to fair and plank as a result. The Fair American is an older kit and I can tell you that the frame work has some issues. I have heard several modelers mention it. I doubt you are going to have those problems with the Syren. Also, Chuck is here to answer questions you may have as you progress through the kit's construction. Russ
  8. Damaged Model

    David: If you look at the Model Shipways Dapper Tom rigging plan, it will probably be very similar to what you have. The AJ Fisher Lynx privateer rigging plan is also probably very similar. Russ
  9. Damaged Model

    This is an American topsail schooner, early 19th century. It is probably meant to be a War of 1812 privateer schooner or something similar. It is most likely a solid hull model. It might be an early solid wood hull kit, depending on the size and scale. Maybe Marine Models, AJ Fisher etc. Russ
  10. Greg: I have said this before, but I think it is worth repeating. Soft soldering is akin to gluing two pieces together while Brazing aka hard soldering aka silver soldering is like welding two pieces to become one piece. Regardless of the stresses involved, which sounds more permanent and less likely to fail over time? Also, a soft soldered joint is difficult to hide whereas the hard soldered joint can be blackened and will be invisible. Once you learn to do it and have a little practice at it, it will become second nature to hard solder. Once I learned the basics of it, I could not figure out how I went so long without it. Russ
  11. Deadeyes and Chainplates

    Are they brass? If so, you can anneal them to make them more pliable. Then you can "spring" them around the deadeye and squeeze them gently to hold the deadeye snugly. Russ
  12. I agree with Wayne. Look at the plan when you get it and see if it is marked on the plan. Russ
  13. In its simplest form, it is the length on deck minus 3/5 of the breadth. If the length on deck were 50 ft and the breadth was 17 ft, then the length of the keel for tonnage would be 39.8 ft. Let us say the depth of the hold was 4 ft. Now, multiply 39.8 x 17 x 4 and you get 2706.4. Divide that by 94 and you get 28 79/94 tons. It is not the actual length of the keel, but what they used in the tonnage calculation. This is called the Builder's Old Measure. It was used through about the mid 1860s in the US and was replaced by the Moorsom system that more accurately calculated internal capacity. Russ
  14. oyster skiff On horses

    Thanks. These little skiffs are fun to build and do not take very much time to get a nice result. Russ
  15. This is a 14 ft long oyster skiff used along the Mississippi Gulf Coast in the late 19th and early 20th centuries

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

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