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About russ

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    Special Contributor

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    Biloxi, Mississippi
  • Interests
    Reading, research, and ship modeling

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  1. If you have some experience with balsa and can make it work, I would go with it. I do not use balsa as I have never had any success with it. But go with what works for you. If the experiment fails, then little has been lost and you can try something else. Russ
  2. John: This is likely because you are not going to click like on your own posts, but on other people's posts. I cannot see a like button on my own posts, but I can click like on other people's posts. Russ
  3. Pavel: You should really fit the false deck and then plank it. It would be far more difficult to bend the planked deck in both directions if you plank the false deck before fitting it. Russ
  4. Pavel: I have never had much luck with mahogany. It tends to be brittle and open grained; not a good choice for scale modeling, generally speaking. I would think a lighter colored wood for the deck would be more appropriate. I have planked decks both ways; using full length planks and leaving open spaces into which hatches and deck structures would fit. Leaving the open spaces is more tedious in laying the plank but it makes it easier to get a nice fit around the bottom edges of deck structures. When laying the full length planked deck, the reverse is true. It is easier laying the planks, but more difficult getting the good fit around the bottom edges of the deck structure. Which you use is based on what you think will work best for you. Russ
  5. Pavel: I do not know much about these kits, but I would definitely strip plank the deck and add the grating. The deck planking can be premilled strips. I use basswood regularly and, while it is relatively soft, it can be made to look very good. I shade one edge of the plank with a typical number 2 pencil and get a nice caulking line. You can also shade one end of each plank for a caulking line there as well. Make sure you get an accurate centerline marked on the deck before you begin planking. Once that first plank is laid along the centerline, the rest should line up well. You can also buy premade grating strips that can be put together to form the grating. You may find that you need a light framework around the grating, but you can use some planking material for that. You can get the strips and grating from an online supplier if you do not have a hobby shop nearby. Russ
  6. Greetings

    Mike: Welcome. Another source will likely be the National Archives. They will most likely have the plans for the Corwin, if they exist. They would be housed at Archives II since they handle plans, photos etc more than Archives I. You should also consider speaking with the US Coast Guard. They might have something on her, or maybe just some hints about where to look. Good luck. Russ
  7. Good plank on bulkhead option

    Eric: Do not let the size and nature of the Syren kit cause you any misgivings. The plans are excellent, the instructions are first rate, and the most challenging part of the build, the framework of the hull, will be much easier because the components are likely to fit very well and be easier to fair and plank as a result. The Fair American is an older kit and I can tell you that the frame work has some issues. I have heard several modelers mention it. I doubt you are going to have those problems with the Syren. Also, Chuck is here to answer questions you may have as you progress through the kit's construction. Russ
  8. Damaged Model

    David: If you look at the Model Shipways Dapper Tom rigging plan, it will probably be very similar to what you have. The AJ Fisher Lynx privateer rigging plan is also probably very similar. Russ
  9. Damaged Model

    This is an American topsail schooner, early 19th century. It is probably meant to be a War of 1812 privateer schooner or something similar. It is most likely a solid hull model. It might be an early solid wood hull kit, depending on the size and scale. Maybe Marine Models, AJ Fisher etc. Russ
  10. Greg: I have said this before, but I think it is worth repeating. Soft soldering is akin to gluing two pieces together while Brazing aka hard soldering aka silver soldering is like welding two pieces to become one piece. Regardless of the stresses involved, which sounds more permanent and less likely to fail over time? Also, a soft soldered joint is difficult to hide whereas the hard soldered joint can be blackened and will be invisible. Once you learn to do it and have a little practice at it, it will become second nature to hard solder. Once I learned the basics of it, I could not figure out how I went so long without it. Russ
  11. Deadeyes and Chainplates

    Are they brass? If so, you can anneal them to make them more pliable. Then you can "spring" them around the deadeye and squeeze them gently to hold the deadeye snugly. Russ
  12. I agree with Wayne. Look at the plan when you get it and see if it is marked on the plan. Russ
  13. In its simplest form, it is the length on deck minus 3/5 of the breadth. If the length on deck were 50 ft and the breadth was 17 ft, then the length of the keel for tonnage would be 39.8 ft. Let us say the depth of the hold was 4 ft. Now, multiply 39.8 x 17 x 4 and you get 2706.4. Divide that by 94 and you get 28 79/94 tons. It is not the actual length of the keel, but what they used in the tonnage calculation. This is called the Builder's Old Measure. It was used through about the mid 1860s in the US and was replaced by the Moorsom system that more accurately calculated internal capacity. Russ
  14. oyster skiff On horses

    Thanks. These little skiffs are fun to build and do not take very much time to get a nice result. Russ
  15. This is a 14 ft long oyster skiff used along the Mississippi Gulf Coast in the late 19th and early 20th centuries

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