russ
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Everything posted by russ
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Matt: You are off and running. I agree that the fairing process is not complete, but it is not a bad thing. We have all been there before I assure you. I would suggest removing the planks and doing some more sanding and checking before you begin again. That might sound drastic, but you can get extra planking strips from a local hobby or craft store if you need to. A small block of wood with some sanding paper wrapped around it or even rubber cemented to it will do the job of fairing. You can use a strip to check against the hull as you go. Sand a little and check, and then sand a little and check again. It will take long before you have a nice smooth hull to plank. Of course, the main thing is to have fun and satisfy your own creative desires. Good luck with your model. Russ
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- virginia 1819
- artesania latina
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Peter: Very nice job. I have been looking in on this build over time and your finished model is very nice. Congratulations. Russ
- 236 replies
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- artesania latina
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I agree that the netting looks very good. I have run the line across a hot light bulb and had good results. The heat melts the beeswax into the line. Russ
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Andy: I would start with square stock and mark out the lines to make it octagonal and then round it out to make your spar. You can do this with careful marking with a sharp pencil and work with a file to make it octagonal. You can then finish it by hand sanding or by chucking the piece into a power drill and using sandpaper to round it and taper it. There are several different methods you can use. The main thing is that the square stock has the grain running along its length. With a dowel, the grain could be running in any direction which is one reason why it warps. Russ
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Your model is looking really good. Nice work. As for those pesky dowels, I am not a fan for the very reason you state, but if you must have them, then check the local craft stores like Michaels or Hobby Lobby etc. Russ
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Bill: Nice to see you back at it. Great work as usual. Russ
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- sovereign of the seas
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Kurt: It has been a while since I looked at Pete's builds. Keep in mind, the margin plank and the covering board are two completely different pieces. In any case, build the model as you like. Have fun. Russ
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Kurt: Most margin planks I have seen had the scarph joint to connect them, regardless of the nibbing. If you can, look at some specific examples of boats like what you are modeling and perhaps that would clear it up. Russ
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Biddlecombe has tables for a schooner's rigging. That is where the value is. Russ
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Sam: I would think that would work out okay. You might consult Biddlecombe since it is a little later and has more information on the schooner rig. Russ
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Sam: The lower gaff that you have circled is probably the fore gaff for the foresail. This is a regular part of the schooner rig. That foresail is loose footed with no boom. Ideally, it would be peaked up at a higher angle than what is shown. The foresail would be brailed up when furled. The fore and aft main sail could be furled by lowering the gaff or by brailing. If this was a brig rig, the that mainsail would be the spanker or driver sail. In the schooner rig, it is the mainsail. The other ones circled further up, I have no idea. Russ
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Well, you have gone and done it now!!! Your hull looks like it will come together nicely. This has been very interesting to watch so far. Thanks. I will look forward to following your progress. Russ
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Sam: That looks very good. Will you add any cleats to the gaffs to keep the halyard blocks in place? Russ
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Sam: Your rigging looks pretty good to my eye. Go with what you got I say. Russ
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Chuck: This will be a beautiful model and a project that modelers will enjoy. I think the planking will be especially nice on this hull. Russ
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- syren ship model
- winchelsea
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Plank bending
russ replied to Timothy Doe's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I have had good results shaping the plank, soaking the plank in hot water, clamping in place on the hull, and then gluing it after it dries. This might take a little more time, but sometimes slow is good. Russ -
Laser cutting questions
russ replied to SardonicMeow's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Aircraft grade plywood like Baltic Birch would be good. Even at 1/8" it has many plys and there are hardly any voids. It is generally stable and good for this sort of work. That said, basswood would work as well. It will be easier to sand when it comes time to fair up the hull before planking. The plywood will be more difficult to sand. Russ -
Maury: On the centerboard schooner models I have planked, the side view generally as a slight upward sweep coming into the stem, but if you turn the model over and look at it from the bottom, the planks will curve inward at the stem. Thus, the actual shape will have a slight S shape, but not as much as what I am seeing in your planking. A lot of this has to do with how the hull is lined off. Druxey's illustration should point the way. As for drop planks, on a hull such as this, I have never seen a drop plank used. On a fuller bow shape it is sometimes necessary to drop a plank. Our local builders would trim down to a minimum of 3-4 inches at the stem, but the strake could have a max width of maybe 7-9 inches. The planking rule you speak of had a lot of elasticity. Russ
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John: I am looking forward to seeing this hull planked. It should be really nice. Russ
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I know Syren is a US company and I think Crown Timber Yard is as well. Russ
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Sam: Looks like it is coming along very well. Russ
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Peter: This is very interesting work you are doing. One question. Will you include the bulwarks in your bulkhead frames? Russ
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Ken: Okay. I see it. The photograph is small, so I did not catch it on the first pass. The boom is right down on it as well. Good work. Russ
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Ken: The work looks good. I like what you have done with the hull. I find that waiting until the last moment to glue in masts is usually a good idea. Will there be a saddle for the boom jaws to rest on? Russ
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For the framework, if you wanted to use plywood, then aircraft grade ply such as Baltic birch is a good choice. It has a lot of plys and few very voids in the plys. It will be stable and should not warp or twist much. You can always use basswood or poplar if you are going to paint the model. No sense using a fruit or nut wood only to cover it with paint. If you are going with a natural finish, then cherry can be quite attractive, especially if you use the heart wood which is darker than the outer sap wood. Boxwood is a good choice also. In fact, any fruit or nut wood will have good working characteristics for scale modeling. Russ
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