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bigcreekdad

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Everything posted by bigcreekdad

  1. WAs intending to do a little heavier cutting and I installed the original blade. However it seems to be biting one side of the cover. When using slitting blades I also noticed the blade was very close to the cover on the right side (looking at it). Any thoughts? SEE THE PIC ATTACHED TO SEE WHAT I MEANT ABOUT BLASE BEING SO CLOSE TO SIDE> THIS IS A SLITTING BLADE.MY CARBON BLADE THAT CAME WITH THE SAW RIBS RIGHT AGAINST IT.
  2. Agree with the pin advice. Just want to add to make sure your drilled holes are directly in the middle of each.
  3. I received this excellent kit for Christmas, and you are doing such a fine job, I know I'll be referring to your build log often once I start it. It will be a little bit yet, as I'm just starting the second planking of my AVS. I always struggle with planking to try to get it right, and am still not where I would like to be. Adopting Chuck's method of bending has helped a lot, but I need much more practice IMO. I have been using a hair dryer, but it just doesn't seem to get quite the bend I would always like and I see you are using some type of heat gun. I wonder if that might work better than the dryer. Any thoughts?
  4. I have a shop vac I use in the basement, which I can connect the hose to the byrnes saw, scroll saw, thickness sander and disc sander. Works well, but I do most of the actual assembly, including sanding, in my den. When doing so, I usually wear a protector. This protects me, but does nothing about the dust it throws into the air. I've been thinking about jury rigging a small shop vac, to which I can somehow fix the hose intake semi permanently to my bench and sand over the top of it. Anyone ever try anything similar?
  5. Gregory Honestly, I did not compare the parts to the plan. However, I should think that if you scratch build from the supplied plans you will do fine. The plans appear quite detailed to me.
  6. Hi Dave The Bluenose was my second ship, so I was far from experienced when building it. While I hand brushed the black above the waterline, I used spray paint for the red lower portion. I taped off everything but the target area, put it in a cardboard box, and sprayed it outside from a spray can. I did three coats and lightly sanded after the first two. Not only did it turn out great IMO, I have had several compliments on. Just a thought. If you'd like, I will take a few pics and send you if you PM me. John
  7. I decided to take a short break from my Cutter Cheerful build, and pulled the AVS off the shelf where it has resided several years. I'm just ready to start the first planking, and I have been amazed at the poor quality of the non planking wood. The kit supplied frame wood is terrible. Every single bulkhead slot had to be widened, and by quite a bit IMO...not sure how this tedious process adds to your skill set. After positioning them the lengths did not all have the same distance to the bearding line. The bulkhead tops also break very easily. The very thin and flimsy false deck broke constantly where notched. I have only built one Model Shipways kit in the past (Bluenose). As I recall, that kit wood was decent. What the difference is in the two kits I don't know, but in other completed builds ( 3 Caldercraft and one Occre) I do not recall this frustration with the keel, bulkheads, and false deck. Maybe it was the shock of just coming off building that much on the Cheerful build that kinda spoiled me....no comparison in the quality of the precut materials. In any case, the AVS is sometimes considered a new starter build. Glad it wasn't my first build.
  8. YT...I did the same before I posted. I am looking for either sheets I can mill, or strips. I didn't see any. It doesn't appear the a wood supplier carries it, and same goes for Syren.
  9. I'm working on the Cheerful, which calls for single hull planking. Yet, many kits call for second planking, which I have done. What are the pros and cons?
  10. If you have a mini table saw you can get decent cherry sheets from Woodcraft. I used it to plank my Dos Amigos and was very pleased.
  11. I usually have two model ships going at one time. In the past they have all been of wood, both from kits and semi scratch. Having been a WW II naval buff for years, I decided to build a plastic warship. Given the steep tradition, I chose a British ship, the Warspite, and have purchased the academy kit. Rather than try to paint the deck, I would like to use a wooden deck kit for this ship. Any advice, suggestions, pros/cons of specific products would be awesome.
  12. I will try tomorrow, but it's really pretty simple...at the point of the bend, the angles going down from each side are not equal.
  13. Have watched Chuck's video several times, and am now starting to plank my Cheerful build. I'm having trouble getting a smooth curve when I do this. I end up with almost an abrupt turn at the curve rather than smooth. Is anyone using a jig of any kind to alleviate this?
  14. I used cherry below the wales on my Dos Amigos and quite liked it. I used swiss pear above the wales. I love the contrast. I too hate to paint wood, although it did cover up a mediocre at best planking job on my earliest build. I look forward to seeing what you do.
  15. Just a thought....While I now use a Proxxon mini lathe, for several years i mounted an electric drill upside down in a vice, and just used sandpaper held around the would in the drill to taper masts and spars. It worked fine.
  16. I'm just starting the hull planking on my Cheerful. I milled a quantity of planking strips using AYC, and find them very easy to "dent". Even light fingernail pressure seems to leave a mark. Is this more common with AYC vs cherry, pear, or boxwood?
  17. I've used cherry, oak, and maple from our local woodcraft store for both deck and hull planking. i've attached a pic of one.
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