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wthilgen

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Everything posted by wthilgen

  1. wthilgen
    I use expanding foam from a spray can. One can get it at "Home Depot" the old cans used to have to be used all at once. The new stuff can be used again and again if you seal the nozzle as directed. It expands quite a bit, so a little goes a long way. Make sure it has an outlet so over expansion has a place to go. I generally let it dry for about 3 days, then trim off excess. You'll find it dries pretty hard. Can be trimmed with any sharp edge and can be sanded. It states that you can paint it, I don't know for sure because I only use it between the bulkheads and then plank over it.
  2. wthilgen
    Maybe nothing to do with it exactly, but a score is also used in place of the number twenty. And back in the days of old, was used often in that manner.
  3. wthilgen
    Smaller dia. Thread works also. Years ago, thread came in only a few dia.'s. Today one has a multitude of sizes and colors.
  4. wthilgen
    If and when a ship received any damage to the hull in which they had to make repairs. It was cheaper and faster to insert a stealer or drop plank, and on occasion simply adding a scarf would mean less time in the shipyard. Much in the same way autos use bondo to make it lookgood and get it out of the shop faster and cheaper, compareD to replacing a whole fender or such. Time is money, even in those days.
  5. wthilgen
    I use a piece of scotch tape. Place the tape where you would place the plank. Using a fine marker, trace the edges of the existing plate on to the tape. Remove andd place on top of desired plank. You will see exactly and how much material to remove. Get it close, then sneak up on it for the final fit. Works really well when it comes to scarfs.
  6. wthilgen
    When you've done your best, there is always wood putty. The real ships of old wern't perfect and to some degree had to be filled in. In small amounts it will add to the over all effect when you put on what ever finish you choose. I personaly prefer to use a propane torch and ever so slightly charing it. Using a finger to rub for desired effect make the vessel appear to be old. Any area where I had to use a bit of putty, turns out blacker and looks like pitch.
  7. wthilgen
    Should you happen to want a nail in the area that was crimpted it could cause a problem because the crimp is less than normal thickness. I no longer use nails for construction, I use them for esthetics value. Soaking or steaming is the way to make sure a plank doesn't pop out in a future date.
  8. wthilgen
    Lookin' forward to the next issue.
  9. wthilgen
    Because they don't know it is the end of the world.
  10. wthilgen
    My bad
  11. wthilgen
    Cool idea!
  12. wthilgen
    Before screwing to keel, pre-drill hole a two or three sizes smaller than needed. Increase to required diameter. Eliminates cracking keel.
  13. wthilgen
    My wife loves them, they don't break when ya drop-em.
  14. wthilgen
    Sand it smooth and plank over it. Add new keel.
  15. wthilgen
    End Mills
  16. wthilgen
    Alistair, check your email.
  17. wthilgen
    Barehook, check your email,
  18. wthilgen
    Not sure, I'll try. The email will say from Billl.
  19. wthilgen
    I have a 40 page pdf file of the Plans and Instructions by Ben Lankford, Vienna, VA if you want it. The size of the file is almost 9 MB. Depending on the size of your emial. I'll send it to anyone who wants it. Free.
  20. wthilgen
    I agree with demon. There generally is more plans and detail work to be done in advance status. If you pick one that someone at MSW already has it is a big help. Because this site rules we your stuck. There is no such thing as a dum question. It only where you list the question that becomes a question. Welcome aboard you'll find a lot of help regardless of build you choose.
  21. wthilgen
    Forgot which book I saw it, but the interior of the bulk heads had metal strips nailed to them running at or about a 45 degree angle in both directions. Apparently it added considerable strength to the hull. I would think it was also a lot more expensive then nailing wood.
  22. wthilgen
    I use Elmer's carpenter glue (white), CA (super glue) and wooden tooth picks for application. I small amount of glue in condiment dispensers I get from Burger King. I keep my CA glue in fridge (ice box for you aged ones). Pour small amount in dispenser, make sure it is room temp before applying. Same goes with paint.
  23. wthilgen
    I've noticed that some modelers will use one piece of planking versus several shorter ones. Don't know where he learned it but grandfather taught me to divide the hull by five from stem to stern thus making the pieces shorter and easier to work with. He would on occasion only use three pieces but rarely. Works well on larger builds not short ones. Your opinion please.
  24. wthilgen
    Bring present build outside, secure it someplace safe, leaving it to the elements. Start second build, when finished planking, switch and finish the one outside. Repeat as often as necessary. (LOL)
  25. wthilgen
    I've used painters tape 1" wide. I hold on to each end of the piece of tape and apply it making sure it touches middle of the hole first then both ends at the same time. Don't push, just set it over the hole. Once applied, I use the side of a sharpened carpenters pencil and gently rub the edges of the hole. I sharpen the pencil so the lead is about 1/4 - 3/8 in length. Remove tape, set on plank, add 1mm cut to shape, sand to fit numerous time until done.

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