Landrotten Highlander

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About Landrotten Highlander

  • Birthday 03/31/1970

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    UK

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  1. would it improve your jig if you were to put guides along the wood near the number 1? When I see this jig, I almost instantly think 'good idea, but how can you ensure that when you move the bottom part, you move it perfectly in line'? Hope I make myself clear - if not, please don't hestitate to ask. Slainte L.H.
  2. Hi Druxey, could you PM me his address as well? I am keen to get a similar set. Slainte, L.H.
  3. I bought my kits directly from http://zootoyz.jp/ . Communication can be done in English, payment is easy. The only thing to take into consideration is customs in your country (had to pay extra when it arrived in the UK). Hope this helps. Slainte L.H.
  4. Just noticed this thread, so inclined to give my thoughts. I am working on one of their mini kits at the moment. Also have one of their larger kits waiting on the shelf. I preferred the typical Japanese ships they offered over the more European / Modern kits - but that may be just my taste. Lovely wood (Japanese Cedar - adore the smell), and has very well executed details. Parts are very finely laser cut and laser edged where needed. Initially the wood may feel flimsy, but it appears stronger than what I assumed at first look (e.g., not have any parts split on me so far, even though they are very thin). The kit is easy enough to put together when you take time to study the instructions - all pictures are in my mother tongue, as well as English, French, German (you get my drift); the text is Japanese, but pictogrames used for 'glue this, do not glue that, file this, etc' make the instructions sufficiently clear not to need even a basic understand of the wording. Compared to some other kits, these instructions are very good - similar to some plastic kits such as Hasegawa or Tamyia. The kit may seem pricy, but I think it is worth the money - especially when you consider that the wood is of such good quality (unlike some of the cheaper kits I have where the wood is not so pleasant to work with - replace the wood is a thought that often occur to me with such kits) and they offer ships that are not so common in our market. Just my thought, and hope it helps. Slainte L.H.
  5. Cheers for the pictures Wish I were there
  6. I'm pulling up a chair as well. @Gaetan, can you give us the title of the 5th book (I already have the 4 in the series and am aware that there are separate plans sold as well). Slainte L.H.
  7. Hello Alexander, vossiewulf was referring to this blog http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/327-le-fleuron-by-gaetan-bordeleau-124/ Gaetan is the person who has just finished building a beatiful model of the French ship 'Le Fleuron'. The 'dictionary' he refers to is one way of saying he is running out of words to describe how good your work is (and that of Gaetan) - and I agree. Hope this helps with understanding. Slainte (this is a Gaelic greeting) Peter
  8. If I am not mistaken 'Buchsbaum' is box (buxus) wood
  9. I count myself to be one of them
  10. I agree with Jan and don't think it is a representationof a 'real' historical ship. The hull configuration is more consistent with a nave or carrack, but the number of masts and shape of sails is not consistent with types of that era but from somewhere in the development of ships from single mast to those we recognise as 'ships of the line'
  11. If you find that your dowel is too small to be used with this tool, you can insert the dowel in a tube (inner diameter tube = outer diameter of dowel). Make sure you mark the centerline using a very fine marker (the finer the better), and rotate the dowel at least 3 times. That way you will obtain a very small triangle which denotes the center. Good luck Peter
  12. I may be biased, as I was born in Belgium, but my first impression of a tall ship was a visit on board the Mercator, a Belgian training vessel built in Leith, Scotland and served as museum in Ostend since the 60's. I understand it is now undergoing extensive renovation.