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Landrotten Highlander

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About Landrotten Highlander

  • Birthday 03/31/1970

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  1. Ship paintings

    I love the bit about 'the future one'
  2. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Nae worries aboot being thick, you should meet some of my previous managers . Two, short, fat planks springs to mind when I think of them. Not quit Highlands at the mo (more south of Glaschu), but Highlander in heart anyway. If the paper analogy helps, glue two pieces of paper together, the bottom mor in a tube, the top almost flat. Give the top a hollowed out shape, then twist the tip while holding the bottom in position. Should be close enough to help you see it. Slainte L.H.
  3. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    extra note, now I think of it. Do not take the difference in angle between root of propellor and tip as exact. It is an exageration to help you visualise things. L.H.
  4. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Not sure if this helps... Consider the wing of a run-of-the mill airplane (civil, not military). The wing is rounded on top, hollow at the bottom. The rounded edge points towards where the lift goes (that is a force that 'pulls' the wing upward). Also, the bit that hits the air first is called the leading edge, and the other end is called the trailing end. To ensure easy airflow around your wing, the leading edge is usually thicker and rounded, while the trailing edge... trails to nothing. Located rougly 25-30% from the length of your wing (as measured from front to back) is the thickest part. Now turn that wing 90 degrees, so that the rounded bit of the wing is now pointing forward (the direction you want the propellor to pull the aircraft = forward). What is now the back side of the propellor is hollow, while the front side is rounded. So far the easy bit. Now for the more complicated bit. The force called LIFT (i.e. the pulling force) is dependant on V^2 (= speed x speed). So the faster the speed, the bigger the force. But if the speed goes too fast the airflow around the wing (propellor) breaks away from the surface, and you end up with no lift whatsoever. Without getting too technical here, the tip of the propellor goes much faster than the root (the bit closest to the shaft). Given the problem above, it is important that the speed at the tip does not get too big. To that end the angle of attack (that is the relative angle the windflow has relative to the forward edge of your aerofoil) needs to be adjusted, from pointing forward at the root of the propellor to almost at right angles to the shaft at the tip of the propellor. The easiest way to visualise this is to take a piece of paper. Hold it vertical, the bottom touching the table in front of you and you facing the writing side of the paper. Now while holding the bottom edge of the paper in place, twist the top edge of the paper either clockwise or counterclockwise. That is the shape of your aerofoil that seems to elude you, as I understand it. Because of the material and forces involved, the tip of the propellor is much thinner than the root (so the aerofoil goes from thin at the tip to oval/almost round at the root. Another way of looking at it is to see your propellor as a series of differently shaped aerofoils layered one on top of the other, each aerofoil slightly differently shaped as well as at a slightly different angle. Wishing you good luck. L.H. p.s., been following your build log with interest, might tackle one of these things as well....
  5. Ship paintings

    Hi Jim, it is quit clear to me that you have mastered the skills required to create beautiful paintings. I enjoy the individual atmospheres you create, dispite the fact that your subjects are restricted to a single topic. On a more technical note, the last two paintings have enabled me to understand and/or appreciate the tips I once received about using the structure of your canvas to help you with your story (looking at the waves and the way you suggest foam). Thank you for showing us / letting us enjoy your talent (even if it is silently for the most part). Slainte L.H.
  6. Sopwith F.1 Camel Build Log

    Figure painting is another of my hobbies. The following most common sizes generally correspond with these scales: 54mm ==> 1/32 75mm ==> 1/24 90mm ==> 1/18 120mm ==> 1/16 but this is by no means always exactly the case: I have some in my collection that were advertised as 54mm but are measured to be closer to 60mm. A 120mm figure would represent a person of 1m92, and I agree this is tall for your general pilot. If you think 120mm is too large then consider 90mm - I believe there are more options available in that scale. Slainte L.H. Edited: P.S. you can also consider putting a bust next to it, although I think most in that format are WWII era - and Manfred von Richthofen, but he would be better with the Fokker DR.I
  7. Sopwith F.1 Camel Build Log

    I know of German pilots and a British army offier in this scale. Did you search for 1:16 scale, or did you also try for 120mm figures (this is the same scale) L.H.
  8. General / organisation of wood

    Very nice, thanks for the link to the video