Jump to content

Landrotten Highlander

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Landrotten Highlander

  • Birthday 03/31/1970

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

833 profile views
  1. As mentione in the other topic, count me in for this group build Slainte gu mhath L.H.
  2. I love to take part. Does the fact I live in the UK pose any issues (i.e. additional cost / delay in obtaining materials, etc)? Slainte gu mhath L.H.
  3. 1:64 Copper plating

    I am involved with the building of the HMS Victory (a memory to the owner's father). When researching the copper plates I found that the fitting patter is overlapping top/bottem, as well as side to side. Another detail is that unlike a brick wall (where individual brick rest equally on 2 underlying bricks) with copper plates the overlap is 1/3 vs 2/3 - i.e. on one tile the overlap to the lower row is 1/3rd of the tyle, on the adjacent (lower row) tyle it is 2/3rd. I have been told that pictures of the ship are on facebook group Library North Ayrshire, Scotland. Hope this info is of use to you. L.H.
  4. Can I get some painting info

    I think I can add a few reassurances as well as tips. When I paint miniature figures (be it white metal or resin) I tend to prime them with either black or grey (a normal car primer in spray can works fine). I use either hobby paints (Vallejo or Scale 75 - both are acrylics) or artist oil colours (the student ones tend to be cheaper, but have less pigment in them). I am thinning my paint a bit more than most (they are closer to washes - which has the consistency of weak tea), and always need to use multiple coats. How many depends on the colour, but as has been mentioned before ,red and yellow are very transparent/translucent colours. What I tend to do is use white gesso paint on top of my black primer where translucent colours will be used. (for your information, the gesso I am using is the same thing artists use to prime their canvasses). I often have to put 4 layers of gesso on before I am starting to get satisfied with the whiteness. And on top of that I have to use multiple coats of say red - usually another 4 minimum. I also tend to paint the lighter colours first, then move to darker tones ( I will need fewer coats of paint this way than if I were to paint dark first). Having said that, my latest bust (I painted a bust of Yoda) has on places (particularly his eyes) 25 coats of paint on it - andI am still not 100% satisfied with the transition, so I might add another few coats.
  5. 15-foot Hozugawa Ayubune

    Hi, is this another kit, or did you scratch build this one? Slainte L.H.
  6. Ship paintings

    Ooh, I like the one with the Northern lights
  7. If I remember correctly, the video on the resoration blog did mention that the ochre on the hull would look different depening on the light - in bright light it looked very pink, while in dull light it looked more ochre. This makes matching the hue on a scaled down model to that of the real ship very difficult in my opinion. Our group has made a choice of colours, and from this moment on we are not going to nitpick any further - otherwise we will never finish the model. Slainte L.H.
  8. I suggest for this you ask robdurant (one of the members here) - he has recently taken some pictures on the Victory (on a very bright sunny day). He gave a link to his flick album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/150573193@N04/sets/72157689985594735 There is one where the background behind the steering wheel does look a bit pink (is that the one you are referring to?), but i think it is either the same colour as the masts, or a very pale wood or even white? colour - but that is my opinion. Best ark robdurant for that Slainte L.H.
  9. This is the basis of our choice: a reply from the restoration team to our colour request. The pantone colour codes, as supplied by the Historic Ships Conservation Team for the hull are below. You can view the shades for reference at: http://ncscolour.com/products Victory Hull Ochre. NCS S 3020-Y40R The hull black is : NCS S 8500-N Other standard paints are:- Black paint for ‘ironwork’ (Admiralty Paints: Matt (Metal) Black, AP9106) White paint (Admiralty Paints: Matt White, AP9111) French blue paint (Admiralty Paints: French Blue, AP9117) Red ochre paint (Admiralty Paints: Red Ochre, AP9116) Copper paint (Admiralty Paints: Copper, AP9126) Gold paint (Admiralty Paints: Gold/Brass, AP9125) Brown (wood/leather) paint (Admiralty Paints: Wood (Walnut) Brown, AP9119)
  10. I am part of a small group of enthusiasts involved in completing a model of the Victory belonging to one of the local library assistants. Her father passed away before he could complete the model, so we are finishing it for them. We had the same issues re colour, so started digging and asking around. This is our answer. Here we go... Revell 36135 Flesh for the new light (yellow) bands on the hull Revell 36109 Anthracite for the 'black' bands on the hull. Humbrol 71 Oak for the masts and Humbrol 132 Satin Red for the cannon ports. I have also made a print-out from a screenshot of the video on the HMS Victory restauration blog (there is one where the colour scheme is discussed). We have the paint, and I am intended to paint a few bits of scrap wood and hold them against the screenshot print-out. Hope this helps L.H.
  11. HMS Victory today... a bunch of photos I took.

    Thank you for those, Rob. I am part of a small group of volunteers involved in building a model of the Victory in our local library. The model belongs to one of the employees there, whose father has passed away before he could complete the model, wo we are offering some of our time to complete this build. Those pictures will be put to very good use, I am sure. Slainte, L.H.
  12. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    That is how it works in real life when your control cable is on a 'closed loop' system. Both ends of the cable are attached to the stick (input for control), then a specific part of the moving surface - e.g. one lever arm fixed to your moving surface (i.e. elevator horn) (output of control) - is fixed onto the cable at the desired position. Thus when the control stick is moved one end of the cable is always pulling on your surface, thus it moves in the desired direction. I think in your case a drop of C.A. to connect the cable to the elevator horn should do the trick. Slainte L.H.
  13. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Hi Mike, I got a bit confused as to why the ailerons (i.e. the control surfaces on the wing tips) are connected to the rudder, so I did a (very short) bit of searching on google. This picture is the closest I could find to a restauration of a Sopwith camel. I have labelled the individual controls. As you can see, the Rudder controls are attached to the rudder itself, the Elevator controls are a closed loop system, apparently attached to 2 pulleys just above the rudder controls. It is not 100% clear, but I think that the rudder pedal can rotate, whyle the pulleys are attached in a fixed position on the outer shaft of the rudder assembly (a bit like fitting a light on your bycicle, you do not attach it to the shaft that connects your steering bar with the front wheel, but with the shaft housing). As I understand it, the elevators cables are not shown in this picture. They should be attached to the grey 'handle' seen just above the 1st ''R' from 'Rudder-Right', and are also in a closed loop system. Please, anybody, feel free to correct me if I am wrong in my perceptions. Hope this helps, L.H. P.S. I have re-read your previous post, and my reason for confusion is your use of 'tail aileron' to indicate the 'elevator'. My bad. P.P.S. Link to the pictures above: http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/wordpress/sopwith-camel-f1-2/sopwith-camel-reconstruction/sopwith-camel-metalwork-parts/sopwith-camel-construction-upper-wings/
  14. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Not entirely correct, but sufficient for purpose of explanation. Asume for a moment that an airplane can rotate along three axis that converge to a single point located where the pilot sits. Let's call X-axis the one running along the centerline in a fore-aft direction, the Y-axis running perpendicular in the horizontal plane and the Z-asix runs perpendicular in the vertical plane. In order to rotate a plane along the X-axis, the pilot operates the ailerons by moving the stick sideways. If turning left, the stick is moved left which in turns moves the ailerons in different directions: the right hand aileron will go DOWN (to increase the lift on the tip of the right hand wing) while the left hand aileron goes UP (to decrease lift on that wingtip). The resulting forces around the centre of gravity(the point connecting the three axis of rotation) will mean that the aircraft will rotate to the left. The speed of rotation is directly proportional to the size of the stick movement. Similarly, rotating along the Y- axis means the stick is pulled back/forward which in turn moves the horizontal stabilizer (the flat part of the tail structure) up/down. Rotating along the Z axis is done by pushing the rudder pedals left/right as eplained in your post. Now it gets a bit more complicated: Each action of ailerons and rudder produces a secondary effect (a side effect if you will). When using the rudders each wing tip of the main wing is now subject to different airspeeds, resulting in different amounts of lift. This causes the plane to start rotating along the X axis as well as the pimary goal: rotating along the Z-axis. Similar but reversed for the ailerons because of a very subtle change in airflow around the rudder. Now, it is much easier to control the heading (direction of flight) using the ailerons than it is using the rudder. Thus a pilot will change his heading by moving the rudder left/right, and gently counteracting the secondary effect with his rudder. On other thing where the rudder is vitally important is when increasing/decreasing power of the engine. On a single propellor driven aircraft the rudder is turning in a single direction. This introduces a torque along the X-axis making the aircraft turn away from its course along the Z-axis (this is called precession, and is used to great benifit in systems such as navigational instruments but also in steadying guns on a modern warship). So a pilot taking off will need to press a particular ruder pedal harder (depending on which direction your propellor turns - this should not make a difference when modelling the plane except when telling the story as in a diorama) in order to keep a straight flight path (as in along the length of the runway). Hope this helps. Slainte L.H.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model shipcraft.

The Nautical Research Guild puts on ship modeling seminars, yearly conferences, and juried competitions. We publish books on ship modeling techniques as well as our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, whose pages are full of articles by master ship modelers who show you how they build those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you what details to build.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research