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    • Dubz

      Hello fellow modellers   02/04/2018

      We would like to present on our Facebook page more regularly pictures of your work. If you would like to participate, and we would appreciate that as we wanna promote the forum this way, please visit https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17711-your-images-for-our-facebook-page/

    • kurtvd19

      An Incentive to Start A Build Log - New Plan Set from the NRG   03/17/2018

      An Incentive for Starting a Build Log

      The NRG’s Generic East Coast Oyster Sharpie plan sets have been selling out – we had to reorder prints 2X already.

      BUT nobody has started a build log yet.  As an incentive we have decided to reward the first three (3) MSW / NRG members who purchase the plans and start and continue* actual build logs** from the plans. 

      The build logs should be started in the scratch built forum and labeled with Generic Sharpie – by “your ID”.  When we have six or more build logs up and running we will set up a group build area for the Generic Sharpie build logs.

      The winners will be able to pick any one of the prizes listed below:

      Free registration for one day at 2018 or 2019 NRG Conference                  ($145 value)

      Shop Notes 1 and 2 set                                                                         ($60 value)

      Nautical Research Journal – all content set                                              ($145 value)

      4 CD's or 1 flash drive         

      Continental Galley Washington Plan set                                                    ($65 value)

      1 year NRG membership or extension                                                      ($50 - $62 value)

      THE RULES

       

      *“Continue” means that multiple posts containing build log content must be made for a minimum of 30 days after the initial post.  Logs will be tracked by starting date and the first 3 that have continued for 30 days following their initial post will be declared the winners.

      **Note the words “actual build logs” – no fair showing a few pieces of wood and going no further just to win. 

       

      The NRG has a new set of plans available for purchase with a free 200+ page full-color monograph .  Check the NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD NEWS forum below for details.  This plan set is developed for the first time scratch builder with limited tools and experience.  All materials are standard strip stock available from hobby wood suppliers.  However, it is also a great project for the more experienced builder looking for a smaller project to take a break from the bigger builds.  Remember MSW Members who provide us their real name are considered members for the discounted price.  An email or call to the office before you order with your real name and MSW user name before you order is needed for the discount code.

Landrotten Highlander

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About Landrotten Highlander

  • Birthday 03/31/1970

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  1. Can I get some painting info

    I think I can add a few reassurances as well as tips. When I paint miniature figures (be it white metal or resin) I tend to prime them with either black or grey (a normal car primer in spray can works fine). I use either hobby paints (Vallejo or Scale 75 - both are acrylics) or artist oil colours (the student ones tend to be cheaper, but have less pigment in them). I am thinning my paint a bit more than most (they are closer to washes - which has the consistency of weak tea), and always need to use multiple coats. How many depends on the colour, but as has been mentioned before ,red and yellow are very transparent/translucent colours. What I tend to do is use white gesso paint on top of my black primer where translucent colours will be used. (for your information, the gesso I am using is the same thing artists use to prime their canvasses). I often have to put 4 layers of gesso on before I am starting to get satisfied with the whiteness. And on top of that I have to use multiple coats of say red - usually another 4 minimum. I also tend to paint the lighter colours first, then move to darker tones ( I will need fewer coats of paint this way than if I were to paint dark first). Having said that, my latest bust (I painted a bust of Yoda) has on places (particularly his eyes) 25 coats of paint on it - andI am still not 100% satisfied with the transition, so I might add another few coats.
  2. 15-foot Hozugawa Ayubune

    Hi, is this another kit, or did you scratch build this one? Slainte L.H.
  3. Ship paintings

    Ooh, I like the one with the Northern lights
  4. If I remember correctly, the video on the resoration blog did mention that the ochre on the hull would look different depening on the light - in bright light it looked very pink, while in dull light it looked more ochre. This makes matching the hue on a scaled down model to that of the real ship very difficult in my opinion. Our group has made a choice of colours, and from this moment on we are not going to nitpick any further - otherwise we will never finish the model. Slainte L.H.
  5. I suggest for this you ask robdurant (one of the members here) - he has recently taken some pictures on the Victory (on a very bright sunny day). He gave a link to his flick album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/150573193@N04/sets/72157689985594735 There is one where the background behind the steering wheel does look a bit pink (is that the one you are referring to?), but i think it is either the same colour as the masts, or a very pale wood or even white? colour - but that is my opinion. Best ark robdurant for that Slainte L.H.
  6. This is the basis of our choice: a reply from the restoration team to our colour request. The pantone colour codes, as supplied by the Historic Ships Conservation Team for the hull are below. You can view the shades for reference at: http://ncscolour.com/products Victory Hull Ochre. NCS S 3020-Y40R The hull black is : NCS S 8500-N Other standard paints are:- Black paint for ‘ironwork’ (Admiralty Paints: Matt (Metal) Black, AP9106) White paint (Admiralty Paints: Matt White, AP9111) French blue paint (Admiralty Paints: French Blue, AP9117) Red ochre paint (Admiralty Paints: Red Ochre, AP9116) Copper paint (Admiralty Paints: Copper, AP9126) Gold paint (Admiralty Paints: Gold/Brass, AP9125) Brown (wood/leather) paint (Admiralty Paints: Wood (Walnut) Brown, AP9119)
  7. I am part of a small group of enthusiasts involved in completing a model of the Victory belonging to one of the local library assistants. Her father passed away before he could complete the model, so we are finishing it for them. We had the same issues re colour, so started digging and asking around. This is our answer. Here we go... Revell 36135 Flesh for the new light (yellow) bands on the hull Revell 36109 Anthracite for the 'black' bands on the hull. Humbrol 71 Oak for the masts and Humbrol 132 Satin Red for the cannon ports. I have also made a print-out from a screenshot of the video on the HMS Victory restauration blog (there is one where the colour scheme is discussed). We have the paint, and I am intended to paint a few bits of scrap wood and hold them against the screenshot print-out. Hope this helps L.H.
  8. HMS Victory today... a bunch of photos I took.

    Thank you for those, Rob. I am part of a small group of volunteers involved in building a model of the Victory in our local library. The model belongs to one of the employees there, whose father has passed away before he could complete the model, wo we are offering some of our time to complete this build. Those pictures will be put to very good use, I am sure. Slainte, L.H.
  9. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    That is how it works in real life when your control cable is on a 'closed loop' system. Both ends of the cable are attached to the stick (input for control), then a specific part of the moving surface - e.g. one lever arm fixed to your moving surface (i.e. elevator horn) (output of control) - is fixed onto the cable at the desired position. Thus when the control stick is moved one end of the cable is always pulling on your surface, thus it moves in the desired direction. I think in your case a drop of C.A. to connect the cable to the elevator horn should do the trick. Slainte L.H.
  10. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Hi Mike, I got a bit confused as to why the ailerons (i.e. the control surfaces on the wing tips) are connected to the rudder, so I did a (very short) bit of searching on google. This picture is the closest I could find to a restauration of a Sopwith camel. I have labelled the individual controls. As you can see, the Rudder controls are attached to the rudder itself, the Elevator controls are a closed loop system, apparently attached to 2 pulleys just above the rudder controls. It is not 100% clear, but I think that the rudder pedal can rotate, whyle the pulleys are attached in a fixed position on the outer shaft of the rudder assembly (a bit like fitting a light on your bycicle, you do not attach it to the shaft that connects your steering bar with the front wheel, but with the shaft housing). As I understand it, the elevators cables are not shown in this picture. They should be attached to the grey 'handle' seen just above the 1st ''R' from 'Rudder-Right', and are also in a closed loop system. Please, anybody, feel free to correct me if I am wrong in my perceptions. Hope this helps, L.H. P.S. I have re-read your previous post, and my reason for confusion is your use of 'tail aileron' to indicate the 'elevator'. My bad. P.P.S. Link to the pictures above: http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/wordpress/sopwith-camel-f1-2/sopwith-camel-reconstruction/sopwith-camel-metalwork-parts/sopwith-camel-construction-upper-wings/
  11. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Not entirely correct, but sufficient for purpose of explanation. Asume for a moment that an airplane can rotate along three axis that converge to a single point located where the pilot sits. Let's call X-axis the one running along the centerline in a fore-aft direction, the Y-axis running perpendicular in the horizontal plane and the Z-asix runs perpendicular in the vertical plane. In order to rotate a plane along the X-axis, the pilot operates the ailerons by moving the stick sideways. If turning left, the stick is moved left which in turns moves the ailerons in different directions: the right hand aileron will go DOWN (to increase the lift on the tip of the right hand wing) while the left hand aileron goes UP (to decrease lift on that wingtip). The resulting forces around the centre of gravity(the point connecting the three axis of rotation) will mean that the aircraft will rotate to the left. The speed of rotation is directly proportional to the size of the stick movement. Similarly, rotating along the Y- axis means the stick is pulled back/forward which in turn moves the horizontal stabilizer (the flat part of the tail structure) up/down. Rotating along the Z axis is done by pushing the rudder pedals left/right as eplained in your post. Now it gets a bit more complicated: Each action of ailerons and rudder produces a secondary effect (a side effect if you will). When using the rudders each wing tip of the main wing is now subject to different airspeeds, resulting in different amounts of lift. This causes the plane to start rotating along the X axis as well as the pimary goal: rotating along the Z-axis. Similar but reversed for the ailerons because of a very subtle change in airflow around the rudder. Now, it is much easier to control the heading (direction of flight) using the ailerons than it is using the rudder. Thus a pilot will change his heading by moving the rudder left/right, and gently counteracting the secondary effect with his rudder. On other thing where the rudder is vitally important is when increasing/decreasing power of the engine. On a single propellor driven aircraft the rudder is turning in a single direction. This introduces a torque along the X-axis making the aircraft turn away from its course along the Z-axis (this is called precession, and is used to great benifit in systems such as navigational instruments but also in steadying guns on a modern warship). So a pilot taking off will need to press a particular ruder pedal harder (depending on which direction your propellor turns - this should not make a difference when modelling the plane except when telling the story as in a diorama) in order to keep a straight flight path (as in along the length of the runway). Hope this helps. Slainte L.H.
  12. Ship paintings

    I love the bit about 'the future one'
  13. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Nae worries aboot being thick, you should meet some of my previous managers . Two, short, fat planks springs to mind when I think of them. Not quit Highlands at the mo (more south of Glaschu), but Highlander in heart anyway. If the paper analogy helps, glue two pieces of paper together, the bottom mor in a tube, the top almost flat. Give the top a hollowed out shape, then twist the tip while holding the bottom in position. Should be close enough to help you see it. Slainte L.H.
  14. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    extra note, now I think of it. Do not take the difference in angle between root of propellor and tip as exact. It is an exageration to help you visualise things. L.H.
  15. Sopwith Camel 1/16 by Mike Dowling

    Not sure if this helps... Consider the wing of a run-of-the mill airplane (civil, not military). The wing is rounded on top, hollow at the bottom. The rounded edge points towards where the lift goes (that is a force that 'pulls' the wing upward). Also, the bit that hits the air first is called the leading edge, and the other end is called the trailing end. To ensure easy airflow around your wing, the leading edge is usually thicker and rounded, while the trailing edge... trails to nothing. Located rougly 25-30% from the length of your wing (as measured from front to back) is the thickest part. Now turn that wing 90 degrees, so that the rounded bit of the wing is now pointing forward (the direction you want the propellor to pull the aircraft = forward). What is now the back side of the propellor is hollow, while the front side is rounded. So far the easy bit. Now for the more complicated bit. The force called LIFT (i.e. the pulling force) is dependant on V^2 (= speed x speed). So the faster the speed, the bigger the force. But if the speed goes too fast the airflow around the wing (propellor) breaks away from the surface, and you end up with no lift whatsoever. Without getting too technical here, the tip of the propellor goes much faster than the root (the bit closest to the shaft). Given the problem above, it is important that the speed at the tip does not get too big. To that end the angle of attack (that is the relative angle the windflow has relative to the forward edge of your aerofoil) needs to be adjusted, from pointing forward at the root of the propellor to almost at right angles to the shaft at the tip of the propellor. The easiest way to visualise this is to take a piece of paper. Hold it vertical, the bottom touching the table in front of you and you facing the writing side of the paper. Now while holding the bottom edge of the paper in place, twist the top edge of the paper either clockwise or counterclockwise. That is the shape of your aerofoil that seems to elude you, as I understand it. Because of the material and forces involved, the tip of the propellor is much thinner than the root (so the aerofoil goes from thin at the tip to oval/almost round at the root. Another way of looking at it is to see your propellor as a series of differently shaped aerofoils layered one on top of the other, each aerofoil slightly differently shaped as well as at a slightly different angle. Wishing you good luck. L.H. p.s., been following your build log with interest, might tackle one of these things as well....

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