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About ca.shipwright

  • Birthday 06/18/1944

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  • Location
    Midlothian, Viirginia USA
  • Interests
    Ship modeling

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  1. NICE! What ever the count, consider yourself lucky. I'm doing a 1:78 HMS Victory and they supplied 3000 plates and I don't know if this will be enough. Talk about the never ending story......... Regards
  2. Ageing Decks

    You can use some acrylic paint in a light grey color. Dilute this until it is the consistency of milk. Put a light coat on and let it dry thoroughly. Take a piece of metal (I use a #22 or #25 blade) and scrape the surface in one direction gently until you get the color you want. There will be variation in the color. But, that adds to the reality of the weathering. Hope this helps
  3. Thickness sander

    Moxis, Both machine will "thickness" a billet of wood. As the photo shows, the Proxxon, as are all thickness planers, are used for pieces that are thicker. As stated, it goes down to 1mm on a sled. The Byrnes' thickness sander has a adjustment increment of .002 inch. Since most of the final thicknessing is going to be of wood strips which are both thin and narrow, the thickness sander will do a much better job. Also there is no danger of snipe of the ends of the pieces due to the out-feed roller of the planer. (Snipe is a concave depression on the top surface of the end of the work piece. It is very difficult to eliminate.) In summary, you can thickness both large and small billets with both machines. The sander will do a much better job on strip wood.
  4. Thickness sander

    By flipping, I mean the surfaces that are being sanded. Also, try to identify the grain direction and always sand with the grain. This will help to prevent gouging or catching the sanding paper in the wood and tearing the paper on the drum.
  5. Thickness sander

    I have been using Jim's sander for about 12 years or so. Here are some observations: - Each mark on the adjustment wheel is .002 in. Use a micrometer and measure more than one place on the strip. - I use one course and one fine grit on the sanding drum. Sand close to finished thickness with the course paper and sneak up on finished thickness with the fine paper. (I just got the 6 inch hold down bar from Jim and use that with 6 inch paper to mill billets wider than 3 inches.) - +/- .005 in is good enough for almost all applications. You won't see the difference and you will save a lot of wood. - Turn the strip over with each pass. This will help to relieve internal stresses and prevent bowing. - Be careful with boxwood. It's edge will cut you like a razor blade if it slides through your fingers. Don't ask. - Save all your errors. You will always need a thinner piece somewhere down the line. This goes for the saw as well. You will always need a narrower piece somewhere down the line. - Try and estimate how much of each size you will need and mill it all (+ 10%) in one set-up. Makes for good consistency. - USE A DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM OR WEAR A RESPIRATOR. Wood dust can be very toxic. - Mill ebony outside. You will never get ebony dust out of you shop or off the machine and ebony is toxic. Hope this helps
  6. Finding the waterline

    R F, There are many ways to do this. But the key is to have a reference point. 1. If there is a base line that is horizontal below the keel and parallel to the water line, all you need to do is measure the distance between them at several stations. Transfer these measurements from the base line to the water line on the hull and connect the dots to give you the water line. 2. If there is no base line, it gets a little more complicated. Place the aft end of the keel on the building board. Raise and block the fore end of the keel until the distance from the waterline to the keel is equal to the distance shown on the plans at any particular station towards the bow. This will give you the forward reference point for the horizontal waterline and the proper amount of drag on the hull. 3. In either 1 or 2, it is imperative that you make sure that the hull is centered, not tilted port or starboard. Laying a level across the bulkworks and keeping the bubble centered should get this done. This will give you the same waterline port and starboard. It all sounds more complicated than it is. Hope this helps
  7. Mamoli 1/53 Golden Hind Plans

    I think Dusic Models have acquired the intellectual rights to all of the Mamoli line. They might sell you the plans.
  8. Wood for large solid hull

    Nicely done.
  9. Milling Lumber for my upcoming POF projects...

    I mill my own strip wood using an old Delta contractors saw with a 3/32' kerf blade, a Byrnes saw and a Byrnes thickness sander. I would not by any rough lumber larger than 3x6 inches. 3" is about all you can cut on the Delta 10" table saw. I usually cut the billet 1/32-1/16 inch over width and finish it to thickness with the Byrnes thickness sander which has an incremental adjustment of 0.02 in. I usually get within .005" for the final dimension using the micrometer fence adjustment and my digital caliper. To find out what final dimension strip wood you will need. See if there is a parts list for a kit. Then add 10% to the included quantity - for spoilage. This should give you the dimension and quantity of the strips you will need. As a recommendation: once you do the set up for a particular width, cut all the pieces for that width regardless of the height dimension with this one set up. Then you will have total consistency in this dimension across all heights. Hope this helps
  10. List your miseries here

    And, A plumber needs to know only three things: 1. Hot is on the left 2.Water runs downhill 3. Don't bite you fingernails. Sorry I couldn't resist