KeithAug

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About KeithAug

  • Birthday 05/27/1953

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sussex, England.
  • Interests
    Sailing, Naval History, Model Ship Building, Model Steam Engine Building. Maisie walking - she is top left.

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  1. I'm not trying to hide it but seem to be hiding it quite well. Try the link after my name.
  2. It isn't a big risk. Most distributors live or die by the the recommendations they get from customers. If they constantly shipped out equipment which was inaccurate, packed up after a few months, had dangerous sharp edges and or gearboxes full of swarf they would quickly go out of business. I think that choosing a good distributor is a reasonable way of reducing risk to an acceptable level.
  3. The quality controls of the importer / distributor is of prime importance. Many importers have their own inspect and prepare facilities and do the necessary preparation work to ensure that the machine as delivered is ready to run condition. Additionally some importers have their own staff embedded in the manufacturing facilities to ensure that their equipment achieves their specifications and standards. it is important to choose a distributor who has a good reputation. My experience was that apart from removing protective grease I needed to do nothing other than switch it on.
  4. I have to say that I don't share the negative experiences of Chinese lathes and mills. I have had mine for 5 years and have experienced none of the "cautionary" wear or accuracy issues suggested in previous posts. I regularly work to tolerances of a thousandth of an inch without any problems. I previously owned a Boxford lathe, a well respected UK manufacturer. It was replaced by the Chinese lathe at a 1/6th of the cost and I have to say I found it just as solidly made with the benefit of more features. It is true that the early Chinese machines which started to arrive in the west 20 years ago were of indifferent quality, however in more recent times they have got their act together and now produce good model engineering machines.
  5. Bill, I'm fairly sure the GO759 is yet another version of the machine I have and similar to the one I mentioned above. All made in the same Chinese factory and rebadged by distributors. I agree that this machine is a good compromise between size, power and usable capacity. Mine is badged Warco WM16, but if you look at the design it's virtually identical to the GO795. http://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/32-wm-16-variable-speed-milling-machine.html.
  6. Hi Shoosh It looks like you went to the races, did you win? Was your prospective husband looking for a handyman as a partner or was that the introductory bonus? Good luck with your build.
  7. I have the UK equivalent one of these and I find it produces good accurate work. At 275lb it is quite heavy for a small machine but weight is an advantage with milling machines as it usually means improved stiffness and accuracy. It also has a good sized table which is a bonus. It is now 5 years old. I use it a lot and have fond it reliable (probably famous last words). http://www.machinetoolonline.com/files/PM_25MV-BD_9-2016_v4.pdf
  8. Hello Frank. it looks like a fine model. I'm sure you will find most members have a broad interest in anything that floats or sinks. You should post your pictures.
  9. Guys I have to say that when I imported my saw into the UK that customs were not at all sloppy. The saw was shipped from the USA using the courier engaged by Jim. The courier was required to collect the duty on delivery. If I hadn't paid the duty on delivery the courier would have refused to hand over the saw. I don't think that you will get away with avoiding import duties without some sort of mis declaration on the shippping description. This of course would require the conivence of the sender and of course would be a criminal act on behalf of the sender, receiver and any intermediary. I know that the import duty is a bit stiff at a hundred quid or so but have you looked at the level of fines? Also a criminal record may not be too helpful. You should also be mindful that this thread constitutes discoverable evidence. The saw is damn good. It may be better to swallow hard and pay the price in the full knowledge that it will repay you with years of pleasure. I apologise if I am interfering but my aim is Avoid any unintended consequences.
  10. Mike. I have used blue - Endeavour link below. But I think in future I will stick to white.
  11. Hello Mike, The folded ribbon and glue method can be a bit messy. I find ripstop sail repair tape is much easier. Its designed for the repair of sails, is very thin, very strong and pre glued - and comes in lots of colours.
  12. Hi Dave Link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122382958417 I am aware Little machine Shop do something very similar but it seems much more expensive.
  13. Hi I was looking for something similar recently and came up with this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OWIXkFVoi0
  14. In the past I have constructed many ad hoc fixtures to enable the accurate machining of masts, spars, yards, booms etc. I decided to have a go at making something more versatile that would work for items of different shapes and sizes. Having made it it seems to work well so I thought it would be worth sharing. I started out with a set of design aspirations. For ease I will refer to "masts" rather than go through the full range of parts each time. 1 Provide solid clamping along the length of the mast. 2 Locate / relocate on the milling table without the need for alignment / set up. 3 Positively locate and relocate the mast so that I can easily remove and replace it on the mill. 4 Clamping devices not to mark / damage the mast. 5 Clamp parallel and taper masts. 6 Clamps to be easy and quick to operate. I started with a clamping concept based upon eccentric circular cams and the build started by cutting a piece of 3/4" MDF to sit on the milling table. I used the mill to accurately drill a series of holes along the length of the MDF to take the cams. The cams themselves were turned (circular) from hardwood. An eccentric hole was drilled along the axis of the cams before they were separated. The cams are mounted on the MDF using a pin. The pin protrudes below the bottom surface of the MDF and the protruding part is cut to a diameter .001" smaller than the slot in the milling table. Once the pins are pushed into the MDF they give positive and repeatable location on the milling bed. The top of the pin locates the cam which is locked by a wing nut. The additional holes allow the cam positions to be varied to suit the mast being worked on. Holes at either end of the MDF take the "T" nut bolts which attach the MDF to the milling table. The MDF was then placed on the milling table (located by the pins) and a row of 4 holes were drilled parallel to the pin holes. Into these holes were placed accurately made dowels. These dowels provide the "fixed" support against which the cams clamp. I think this will become clearer in later photos. A simple piece of wood is then placed up against the dowels. This forms the face against which the mast is clamped. In the following picture a mast is clamped in place. Because the cams act as a finely tapered wedge hand rotation is enough to very rigidly hold the mast. The cams give a lot of flexibility on the diameter of mast that can be held - .200" to .700". But larger is possible by using a narrower wooden strip. At this stage I checked the alignment of the mast to the axis of the mill. The run out was .0015" over a 12" length. Much better than I expected. I did however need an end stop to control the position of the end of the mast. This was relatively easily achieved and for good measure I included an option for 3 positions. See Photos:- The solution to dealing with taper masts is straightforward but does require a bit of trigonometry. The taper is achieved by changing the diameter of one of the fixed dowels. This is done by making a collar to fit over it. This gives a triangle the base of which is the distance between the first and last dowels and the "opposite side" is the thickness of the collar wall = (outside diameter - inside diameter)/2. In the last picture I replaced the wood strip by a steel bar - but this proved to be un-necessary. I still have a few bits to develop but I think thats enough for now - except for the mystery of the missing wing nut!!!!!!