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KeithAug

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sussex, England.
  • Interests
    Sailing, Naval History, Model Ship Building, Model Steam Engine Building. Maisie walking - she is top left.

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  1. Thank you Mark, I'll try to live up to your expectations and standards.
  2. Paul - I hadn't thought about it and you are probably right that it would help. I am getting a bit fed up with draughting so I may short cut and go to cutting out the frames and then check what it looks like "in the flesh". I'll probably regret it and have to revert to your suggestion - oh hum!
  3. Having completed the forward sections I moved to the aft end. The lower aft end of the keel is perhaps the most poorly defined area not only because of the loss of line definition in scaling up the original but also because of closeness of the lines on the plan view. This post covers the definition of frame lines negative 7 through to 11 (nineteen in total). Producing the frame lines required a degree of interpolation to get something that looked sensible within the frame and between adjacent frames. I enclose the PDF of the result for anyone interested. Frames4.pdf I found that drawing the keel bulb on frames forward of those being defined was helpful in getting my mind around the keel shape. The bulb lines in question are marked 15, 14 & 13 on the drawing. They can be ignored when I get on to cutting out frames as they will be covered on the fully defined frames later. Again I have defined the datum line, the building board alignment slot, the water line, deck edge line and rail line. Additionally I have noted the levels of the cabin floor as it rises in steps towards the bow. To complete the lines I now need now to define the frames 11, 12, 13 & 14.
  4. Michael - My time in the Rolls Royce Draughting Training School was a long time ago (1969 / 70). I am very much worse than I was then. The last time I drove a drawing board was in the RB211 Design office in 1977. Which leads me into a story. I had been asked to work overtime one night and was sitting alone at my stool in front of a long line of vacant 6x4 feet drawing boards. I was engrossed in designing a new style of combined engine oil feed and scavenge pump and quite oblivious to the rhythmic clanking of the bucket and mop as the cleaning lady worked her way steadily down the office. Suddenly as she came level with my station she stopped and spoke the following words that, in their irony, have lived with me to this day:- She said "Sorry to bother you but don't you get board just drawing stuff all day". I looked at her mop and bucket in amazement incapable of making sensible reply. Unfortunately I moved into management before the advent of CAD and never bothered to learn.
  5. Dan I am only as far as November 6th but by the rate you are progressing I need to get a move on lest you finish it before I catch up. A fascinating build. I found it interesting / surprising how much photographic evidence you found given the era she inhabited. A great project which I look forward to following.
  6. Hi Dan One of the high priorities on my catch up list was to see how Michelangelo turned out. I have to say she is beautiful and only bettered by you detailed log of the build, very well done. I'm now heading off to have a look at Leviathan.
  7. Patrick. I just enjoyed catching up. She is a weird vessel, however as usual, your ability to work the detail at this scale is most impressive.
  8. Happy new year Pawel. Hope you are keeping well. Lovely gun.
  9. Mark - Looking good-----steady as she goes. Try splicing the mainbrace - I always find it makes things look even better.
  10. Just a bit more draughting progress. I finished the forward section frames - 15 through 38. I was pleased with the result although these are the most easily defined frames because the are reasonably well spaced and don't conflict with one another. I also marked the waterline, deck edge lines and the rail lines on the sections. Additionally I have included the upstand and datum line that will be used later for mounting the frames (inverted) on the building board. The slot in the up-stand will form a cut out to align the frame centre line on the building board - this will come clearer later. I have included below the PDF file of these frames for downloading. I have also put x and y scales on the PDF to allow scaling when printing. I found that in my case the scanned PDF came out at 93% full size and I had to adjust the size in the print programme back to 100%. I checked the printed scales measured 6 inch as original drawn as a check on the reproduction accuracy. Schooner 1.pdf
  11. I started plotting the frame section lines. The drawing numbers the frames with frame 0 at the steering position. Frames 1 to 38 are forward of the steering position and frames -1 to -7 aft of it. It's a bit slow going but I am making progress. I have commandeered the dining room table - somewhat warmer than the workshop at present and my wife can find me more easily. The Christmas table cloth hasn't been removed yet. My draughting arrangements are somewhat basic, MDF for drawing board, my woodworkers square, dividers, french curves and a much overused eraser. Oh! and a laptop to give the impression of sophistication. Never the less it seems to work and the bow sections are coming out well. I will publish PDF's of the sections in a later post. .
  12. Richard I emailed the builder but didn't get a reply - probably a victim of their spam filters. I not too worried as I think I will get a decent result from the image I have. The instruments are Staedtler. The large compass has a nifty collet arrangement on the adjustment screw to give fast action as well as fine adjustment.
  13. I have made a start on defining the frames I started with the small web image. This was originally in a magazine and probably scaled about 6 inches long. I had a play with it in the Mac iPhoto package basically whitening and sharpening the image. The plan and side elevations improved more than the image showing the frames. This wasn't a big deal as the frames were only for the fore part of the yacht and anyway I thought plotting the frames from the plan / elevation was likely to be more interesting. I printed the plan / side elevations at 1:36 and 1:72 scale. 1:36 is the upper 2 sheets in the next photo, the lower 6 sheets are 1:72. Scaling up to 1:36 produced rather wide / poorly defined lines. 1:72 was somewhat better. As I was going to draw the frames at 1:36 the scale of 1:72 worked well as I could measure across the matching plan section lines and use this dimension as the centre line to hull dimension on the 1:36 frame sections. I felt the urge to check that the plans were reasonably accurate as I was worried that length / beam scales could have been distorted. Hence the following check calculations:- The error line (red) shows the maximum error to be about a third of a percent which I am happy with. It is probably worth stating that the frame section lines are spaced at 1 meter (full size) or circa 1.1 Inch at 1:36. For building I had to consider how many frames to create. 1.1 inch spacing gives 46 frames and of course 2.2 inch gives 23. I decided to go with the larger number.
  14. Aviaamator Yes - that's how I do it and I also brake off the pins at the neck - usually when tapping them with a pin hammer?
  15. I will be interested to see how you get on with shaping the sail Mark. I have tried suspending a horizontal frame, attaching fine cotton cloth at the edges and wetting with dilute PVA. The result never seemed to be stiff enough to counter the stresses induced by rigging. I did lay up some cloth once with 2 part epoxy mixed and then painted on (used to repair a radio control car body). This was wonderfully stiff but i did need the car body as a former to lay it up on. I was thinking about moulds for forming snails a while ago and came up with a plan to create a frame the shape of the sail and then tacking styrene sheet on to it. Then with the frame horizontal softening the styrene by pouring boiling water on it. hopefully once the belly starts to form the "bowl" will collect the boiling water and add to the shaping effect. I haven't however tried it yet so it may be a rubbish plan.

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