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KeithAug

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About KeithAug

  • Birthday 05/27/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sussex, England.
  • Interests
    Sailing, Naval History, Model Ship Building, Model Steam Engine Building. Maisie walking - she is top left.

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  1. Hello from UK

    Hello John. I always wanted to retire to Harrogate. A Yorkshireman down south is like a duck out of water. Welcome and I look forward to seeing your build.
  2. John - Have a look here for tool advice:- http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php Most good model shops carry a range of tools - In the UK I find this outfit to be a good supplier:- http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/tools.html. I also use https://www.chronos.ltd.uk and find they give excellent service. Also this link gives an idea of the sort of tools others are using to make masts / yards:- http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-masts-and-yards.php
  3. John, You need to think about getting something with a decent sized hole through it to take longer stock. Not all round collet holders have a decent bore. The ER collet blocks work fine in the lathe chuck if you are wanting to quickly mount something that isn't going to damage a finished surface of softer bar stock such as aluminium or brass (the 3 jaw chuck can damage these quite easily). If you don't want to go through the bother of dismounting and remounting the chuck then the collet blocks are a quick and easy solution and do have a decent bore. It isn't as accurate as a collet chuck but I checked my set up and can get concentricity of better than .002" which is good enough for most of what I do. I do have a collet chuck which I use for more accurate work. If you need smaller then you can get ER25 versions.
  4. yacht rigging for 1:12 scale

    Hello Mark I use Beadalon multi strand stainless steel beading wire. You can see the effect in the later posts of my Altair build - link below. Rather than using crimps I use small bore tubing with a spot of CA glue.
  5. Newby with grand plans

    Hello Keith, it it is quite hard to recommend a good place to start with model ship building as the choice is very much dictated by the temperament and skills of the builder. Fortunately skills can be acquired and old dogs can learn new tricks. As for temperament, well that’s a different story as by our age it’s pretty well locked in. So if you are the sort of person who likes quick results, gets bored with hours spent trying to shape components which you struggle to see, or derives no satisfaction from a days effort producing something smaller than a five pence piece then start with something simple and small. If you don’t get bored or frustrated easily and see failure as an opportunity to make it again (and better) then go for something spectacular. Remember however that large complex models can take many years to build and before you start ask yourself if you have the will and stamina to see it through. That said many of us find model making a fascinating and rewarding passtime and a source of great pleasure and pride. Good look with your first build, I look forward to seeing your build log.
  6. Collet blocks are used to simplify the milling of square and hexagonal shapes on round bar. The block use standard ER collets and are available in ER25, 32 and 40 sizes. If you are like me and don't have a collet chuck on the lathe you can mount the hex block in the 3 jaw lathe chuck or the square block in the 4 jaw chuck. The accuracy of the set up depends on the accuracy of the lathe chuck. Fortunately mine is pretty good. By using the collet chuck I can hold smaller diameter bar (down to .040") and of course I avoid the jaws damaging the bar. I bought mine from www.arceurotrade.co.uk - they ship abroad.
  7. Jet or Dewalt scroll saw

    I seem to recall flowers for the wife was a suggestion!!!!!!!!!
  8. Hi Brian I always referred to this machine as a fretsaw. I think scroll saw is more of an imported American description. Others may have an alternative explanation. I have the EX20 bought second hand off eBay. Its ok but I think I should have bought new from Axminster.
  9. Brian If you are past spending your money on wine, women and song, then go for the scroll saw. As a selling point to the wife you could always explain that it was the saw or the alternative.
  10. Saw blades for Byrnes saw

    Kevin I should have added that I try to preserve my Byrnes TCT blade by doing roughing operations with this TCT blade:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018RSRT82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Don't be fooled by the claimed thickness as this is the thickness of the disc. The Kerf is 1/10". That said it cuts cleanly if you don't mind wasting a bit more wood. The bore is 20mm so you still need a spacer.
  11. Saw blades for Byrnes saw

    Kevin I agree with Ed re the use of carbide blades - I only use them for cutting larger stock (3/8 inch and above hardwood). Jim has reducers available and the implication is he will make the size you want for $5. Might be worth adding it to your order. Alternatively I can make one and send it to you.
  12. Saw blades for Byrnes saw

    Mike this UK supplier has a large range, but again you will need a spacer. I have good experience of this supplier. https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=saw slitting diameter 80mm&PN=Metric_HSS_Slitting_Saws.html#aSS1003
  13. Saw blades for Byrnes saw

    Mike It depends on what type of blade you want. If it's slitting saw blades then I uses this for most of my work - particularly slitting off planks for hull and deck planking. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AUB66C0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also have 0.6mm and 1.0mm versions of the same blade - from the same supplier. You can get similar blades with coarser teeth but I find 108 teeth are best for most uses. Bear in mind the shaft on the byrnes saw is 0.5" diameter while these blades have 22mm bores. I made up a spacer (on the lathe) from an off-cut of 25mm aluminium bar. If you are looking for carbide tipped blades then the only source I have found for small kerf (.040") blades is Byrnes Model Machines. If you want any more details of the spacer I am happy to supply.
  14. Please help! What to buy.

    My recommendation would be use soft solder where you don’t need significant strength. This would mean 99% of a static display boat fittings. Solder paste is best for fine work. It’s more easy to control where you put it and hence less to clean off once the joint is made. Lead or lead free isn’t a big deal in my experience, I have never found much difference between either. Like Mark my preferred heat source is a small propane torch. The heat is instantaneous and you don’t need to touch the work to apply it. I use the torch for about 90% of my soldering work. I use a soldering iron only where I need to be really precise about where the heat is going, e.g. when making a series of joints in close proximity without the following joint melting the previous one. When the component to be soldered is thin (e.g. photo etched parts) a torch is likely to distort or melt it, in this case a soldering iron is better. A alternative option which is less aggressive than a torch but does not involve touching the work is a hot air soldering gun, many modellers swear by them as the soldering temperature can be adjusted facilitating the use of different melting point solders. I just use the same paste flux that I use for plumbing. It works fine.
  15. Michael do you have a separate workbench / build / assembly area?
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