KeithAug

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About KeithAug

  • Birthday 05/27/1953

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sussex, England.
  • Interests
    Sailing, Naval History, Model Ship Building, Model Steam Engine Building. Maisie walking - she is top left.

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  1. Mike. I have used blue - Endeavour link below. But I think in future I will stick to white.
  2. Hello Mike, The folded ribbon and glue method can be a bit messy. I find ripstop sail repair tape is much easier. Its designed for the repair of sails, is very thin, very strong and pre glued - and comes in lots of colours.
  3. Hi Dave Link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122382958417 I am aware Little machine Shop do something very similar but it seems much more expensive.
  4. Hi I was looking for something similar recently and came up with this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OWIXkFVoi0
  5. In the past I have constructed many ad hoc fixtures to enable the accurate machining of masts, spars, yards, booms etc. I decided to have a go at making something more versatile that would work for items of different shapes and sizes. Having made it it seems to work well so I thought it would be worth sharing. I started out with a set of design aspirations. For ease I will refer to "masts" rather than go through the full range of parts each time. 1 Provide solid clamping along the length of the mast. 2 Locate / relocate on the milling table without the need for alignment / set up. 3 Positively locate and relocate the mast so that I can easily remove and replace it on the mill. 4 Clamping devices not to mark / damage the mast. 5 Clamp parallel and taper masts. 6 Clamps to be easy and quick to operate. I started with a clamping concept based upon eccentric circular cams and the build started by cutting a piece of 3/4" MDF to sit on the milling table. I used the mill to accurately drill a series of holes along the length of the MDF to take the cams. The cams themselves were turned (circular) from hardwood. An eccentric hole was drilled along the axis of the cams before they were separated. The cams are mounted on the MDF using a pin. The pin protrudes below the bottom surface of the MDF and the protruding part is cut to a diameter .001" smaller than the slot in the milling table. Once the pins are pushed into the MDF they give positive and repeatable location on the milling bed. The top of the pin locates the cam which is locked by a wing nut. The additional holes allow the cam positions to be varied to suit the mast being worked on. Holes at either end of the MDF take the "T" nut bolts which attach the MDF to the milling table. The MDF was then placed on the milling table (located by the pins) and a row of 4 holes were drilled parallel to the pin holes. Into these holes were placed accurately made dowels. These dowels provide the "fixed" support against which the cams clamp. I think this will become clearer in later photos. A simple piece of wood is then placed up against the dowels. This forms the face against which the mast is clamped. In the following picture a mast is clamped in place. Because the cams act as a finely tapered wedge hand rotation is enough to very rigidly hold the mast. The cams give a lot of flexibility on the diameter of mast that can be held - .200" to .700". But larger is possible by using a narrower wooden strip. At this stage I checked the alignment of the mast to the axis of the mill. The run out was .0015" over a 12" length. Much better than I expected. I did however need an end stop to control the position of the end of the mast. This was relatively easily achieved and for good measure I included an option for 3 positions. See Photos:- The solution to dealing with taper masts is straightforward but does require a bit of trigonometry. The taper is achieved by changing the diameter of one of the fixed dowels. This is done by making a collar to fit over it. This gives a triangle the base of which is the distance between the first and last dowels and the "opposite side" is the thickness of the collar wall = (outside diameter - inside diameter)/2. In the last picture I replaced the wood strip by a steel bar - but this proved to be un-necessary. I still have a few bits to develop but I think thats enough for now - except for the mystery of the missing wing nut!!!!!!
  6. Get well soon Michael. Your workshop is probably lonely.
  7. Working out how to make something I don't know how to make.
  8. Hello Brian I bought Byrnes and imported it. You are right about import duties and shipping costs - but not about the time. My saw arrived in little over a week. Fortunately I bought it before Brexit. If I hadn't I'd be paying an additional 20% because of the devaluation of the £. Of course the 20% hike applies to most things that are made outside the UK - which is about everything. I use the saw an awful lot and it actually works - consistently ripping planking to very fine tolerances. I'm not sure from what I have read that the Proxxon is quite as good in this respect. I have to say I'm not a Byrnes fanatic. I have made my own thickness sander and with minor modification I find my Chinese belt / disc sander works very well for a 1/5 of the price of a Byrnes machine. However I have to say the saw is worth every penny.
  9. That makes a lot of sense Michael. My mill is quite small in comparison to yours - a benefit much of the time but it can be quite tedious when I have to remove a lot of metal.
  10. Michael, More of a work of art than a production tool. Maybe you should put it in the lounge as objet d'art. Just one point I haven't quite worked out. I know you say you don't want to use the large mill but what is it about your mill that makes you want to go down this route rather than use it. Is it something to do with the "feel" during the drilling operation. You said somewhere that the mill has a DRO so presumably fine x,y,z coordinate control isn't a problem?
  11. Michel, it must be your age. We youngsters find the digital age a delight (so long as the batteries last!
  12. Very nice Michael Have you considered butchering some cheap digital callipers rather than using the dial gauges. I used to use dial gauges on the lathe longitudinal travel until I took the step of of bolting on a digital calliper. I wouldn't go back to a dial gauge now. Sorry you are under the weather and hope you get well soon.
  13. Kat The attached is a good quick guide to wood choice. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php Or alternatively try. http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?49
  14. Tony Just an aside - we could probably be having the conversation by shouting to one another. I am sat in my daughters flat on Finsbury Park Road at the moment.