KeithAug

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Everything posted by KeithAug

  1. ALTAIR is an auxiliary gaff rigged schooner built by William Fife & Sons at Fairlie as yard number 789. She was launched in May 1931. The 1.32 scale model plans were created by Sandy Cousins and produce a model 1200mm LOA and 200mm Beam. The plans are on 6 sheets and include building notes by the author. The plans can be used to create a sailing model. To achieve this requires the addition of a significant extension to the keel in the form of a metal plate some 100mm deep with a swing keel pivoting below this. As I am building a static display model I don’t need to worry about this. So to begin……….. I chose this build as as I had really enjoyed building the Amati Endeavour 1:35 kit but wanted to return to scratch building for my next project. My daughter bought me the plans and they were delivered by Santa a couple of weeks ago. As designed the plans suggest that the main frames are made from 1/8 inch ply stiffened by several 1/8 inch ply “decks” forming a box structure. This felt overly complex and I resolved to make the frames out of ¼ inch ply as I had done on previous models with a ¼ inch ply keel running the length of the model. The plans also suggest that he hull is constructed attached to a building board. The allowance for the upstand from the board seemed excessive and potentially wasteful so I reduced it by about 1 inch at the bow and about 1.75 inch at the stern. I will step the building board to allow all frames to sit correctly relative to one another. I considered a number of options for marking out the frames. As per normal practice only half frames were drawn. The building notes suggest transferring the outlines to the ply using carbon paper. I didn’t fancy this and decided to cut out the frame outlines from the plan and then mount the half frames on card to create templates. The templates were then used to transfer the outlines onto folded paper. Once cut out and unfolded I had the frame cutting profiles and these were attached to the ¼ inch ply with Pritt Stick glue. I tried a few arrangements to get the minimum waste. Before cutting out the frames using a jig saw with a fine cut blade. I don’t have a scroll saw and cant justify one for the limited use I would make of it. After a number of hours of careful cutting I finished up with a reasonable set of frames. I have left the frame keel slot and the building board locating slot uncut while I decide how to saw these accurately as this will be key to a successful build. Well thats enough for now - back to more sawing tomorrow. Keith
  2. Michael, More of a work of art than a production tool. Maybe you should put it in the lounge as objet d'art. Just one point I haven't quite worked out. I know you say you don't want to use the large mill but what is it about your mill that makes you want to go down this route rather than use it. Is it something to do with the "feel" during the drilling operation. You said somewhere that the mill has a DRO so presumably fine x,y,z coordinate control isn't a problem?
  3. Richard, Michael, Bedford, Nils, John, Rob, Per. Thank you all for your very nice comments. Like most of us I build models for my own entertainment and pleasure, it is however very much appreciated when fellow shipwrights offer support and encouragement. Thanks to all of you all for taking the time and effort to comment. Now to deal with the questions:- Michael A picture may help (sorry I mixed 1st and 3rd angle projection). The top of the page (numbered 1,2 and 3) is what I set out to make. I did think about making a jig and then soldering the 3 parts together but I wasn't convinced it would be neat enough with the solder. Given the size and number of the parts I didn't fancy the clean up task. I realised that I could make it look right while achieving a robust construction by adopting the approach depicted in sketch 4. The sequence was as follows:- 1 Form the wooden cleat cross member (sketch 4z) and drill 2 cross holes in it .250" apart - these holes to take the pins (sketch 4x). I drilled the holes accurately on the mill using the DRO. 2 Make the collars (sketch 4y). These collars each have 1 cross hole pre drilled. 3 Slip two collars over each cross members and align the collar holes with the cross holes in the cleat. 4 Insert 2 pins (sketch 4y) into the holes in the cleat cross member and glue with CA. The contact area for the glue is large as the bond is between the pin and the wooden cross member. 5 Mount the feet (sketch 4w) on the deck and secure with 'spectacle screws" and CA glue. (I used a jig to accurately drill the 4 holes per cleat). 6 Drill through the deck at the location of the middle hole in each foot. 7 Apply glue to the pins of the cleat sub-assembly (step 4 above) 8 Insert the sub assembly into the holes in the feet / deck. The contact area for the glue is large as the bond is between the pin and the wooden deck. I used a spacer to make sure the distance from deck to cross member was consistent. It worked but was a bit complex. I'm sure others would find a simpler method. Per. I make them look the same by repeating the sequence and settings on the late for each item. For example the sequence went something like this. Set .375" bar in lathe. Face end. Centre drill. Drill .080" hole in end .100 deep (one turn of tailstock handle) Replace drill with .040" drill and push until it bottoms in hole. Drill .100 deep. Push tailstock away. Bring lathe tool into contact with the outside of the bar and set the cross slide dial to zero. Move lathe saddle away from work. Wind dial on the .025". (to reduce the diameter from .375 to .325) Move lathe tool until it touches the face of the bar and set saddle dial to zero. Take cut, moving the saddle until the cut diameter is .500" long. Etc, etc. The trick is to record the sequence and the dial settings for each step, much the same as you would do if you were programming a CNC lathe. It would be much easier if I had a CNC lathe but I am a miser. Richard. I agree with Michael. An unused lathe is like an unloved wife. They cease up and become useless.
  4. Dan. this might be one option for constructing yor lattice. http://www.albionhobbies.com/connecto/. Although it might be a bit expensive.
  5. John, Thank you. Once again damned by faint praise. Have you been taking lessons from my wife? The song was an old one when I used to sing it walking home from school and that was 50 years ago. So I guess inflation has taken its toll.
  6. Thank you Michael and welcome to all other visitors. After a bit of time away I got back to finishing the cleats - now all done. In the end I decided to simplify the construction by eliminating the stem tube spacer - see earlier post. I used a simple jig to make sure that the pins went in at right angles to the top. The pins were glued in place using CA. The feet were attached to the deck first. The hold down bolts are from a spectacle repair kit - hundreds of very small size screws for a few pounds - ebay. I drilled a thin sheet of steel to create a template for drilling the deck. The central holes in the foot were drilled through to the deck to take the tops. A few more shots of the deck:- Having completed the cleats I made the 4 secondary winches. As I think I said previously these are omitted in error from the plans but are very clear on web based photographs / videos. The winches are .325 max diameter x .300 high.
  7. Michel, it must be your age. We youngsters find the digital age a delight (so long as the batteries last!
  8. Very nice Michael Have you considered butchering some cheap digital callipers rather than using the dial gauges. I used to use dial gauges on the lathe longitudinal travel until I took the step of of bolting on a digital calliper. I wouldn't go back to a dial gauge now. Sorry you are under the weather and hope you get well soon.
  9. Kat The attached is a good quick guide to wood choice. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php Or alternatively try. http://modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?49
  10. Tony Just an aside - we could probably be having the conversation by shouting to one another. I am sat in my daughters flat on Finsbury Park Road at the moment.
  11. Tony I am thinking of building Valerian form the Underhill plans as my next build (still many months away). Like you i was struggling with getting framing information. However having discovered the attached link I think I can make a good stab at it. Hope this helps - click on the video "Brixham Trawler - click to view" http://www.trinitysailing.org/vessels/building-a-brixham-trawler/#prettyPhoto
  12. Richard Totally agree with Nitromoors. It used to be brilliant 40 years ago. It would eat through centuries of accumulated paint in minutes - it even went through my kitchen floor. I'm sure its what the "Aliens" used for blood. The modern stuff seems to be a substitute for baby lotion.
  13. I have now made all the bits for the cleats. The last bits to be made were the wooden cross members. The cross members were made out of barbecue skewers (bamboo). I didn't have any the right size (0.1" diameter) and anyway the cross section was all sorts of shape. A job for a draw plate but as I don't have one I had to make my own. The holes were drilled using a centre drill. The first hole in the plate was drilled through until the conical section just penetrated the underside of a plate. Subsequent holes were then formed with each hole penetrating .005" deeper than the previous one. The cone of the drill thus generated increasing sizes if hole. I drilled one hole wrong - spot the deliberate mistake. The holes had very sharp edges and worked very well. All the skewers finished up round and between .098" and .10" diameter. The cross members needed .04" holes drilled through them .250" apart. I made a simple jig to accurately hold the skewers during drilling. I have a load of rare earth magnets which I use to hold drills, milling cutters, etc while I am using using them for a specific task. I find it stops me losing them - particularly if they are small. The magnet here is holding the centre drill as i repetitively change between it and the twist drill. I needed 18 cross members so I made 20. Somehow I immediately lost 2 so made another 2. I then coloured them with wood dye. Colron spirit based wood dye. I am down to the last dregs of the tin and Colron have discontinued this dye because of VOC's. The pity is that the water based replacement product is useless and does not work. Hopefully someone will know of a decent product???? I have started assembly.
  14. John Although I make my own you can buy nice wooden blocks and rigging line (and a lot of other fittings) here - Uk based supplier:- http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/1.html
  15. Your workmanship continues to be very impressive. Very well done giampieroricci.
  16. Bedford - re polishing If the part has machining marks I polish them out with progressively finer grades of wet and dry paper (used dry). I tend to start with 400 grit before moving to 600 grit and then 1200 grit. Where I can I tend to polish using a bench polisher. I have polishing compounds for hard and soft metals. The compound comes in coarse and fine grades. However I find that I don't get much use out of the hard metal compounds and to be frank as often as not I go straight to the "blue" fine grade compound for soft metals. That said I find I often want to do a small amount of polishing on an awkward component and here the convenience and simplicity of the following method tends to win out. In the words of a very old song:- Shine your buttons with Brasso It's only three ha'pence a tin, You can buy it or nick it from Woolworths. But I don't think they've got any in. The rest of the song isn't really printable on this forum but can be viewed on you tube.
  17. Michael, John, Richard, Thank you for the comments - much appreciated. Also thank you to all those who have visited my build. I hope you have all found a little to interest you. Bedford, I do love old ships and boat. The heritage fleet looks wonderful. Update:- I have made a start on the cleats 18 in all. I am fabricating them from a kit of parts - each cleat will be made of 9 components - so 18 x 9 = 162 bits in total. The basic design is shown in the sketch.It is important to get all the parts as similar as possible - I find discrepancies show up particularly if you know about them! The foot was made first. I decided the best way to achieve consistency was to shape a brass bar to the plan view of the foot and then to drill the 3 holes. The bar was cut to size and finally shaped with a hand file. The individual feet were then parted off from this with the slitting saw mounted in the mill. The edges of the feet (photo above) still have to have burs removed before polishing. I miscounted and made 38 rather than the 36 required. The top boss is made from .125" OD tube. The tube was accurately drilled with a series of holes along its length. These holes will take the assembly pins. I needed to accurately part off the boss's from the tube. I was concerned that the tube would not stand up to the parting off operation without support. I improvised a steady by supporting the tube from the bore using the back end of a drill held in the tailstock chuck.The bonus advantage of the steady was that the very small boss's were retained on the drill shank. I am using cocktail sticks to make sure the boss's don't go walkabout.
  18. Hello Michael I thought you might like more detail about my approach. Like you I didn't like the commercially available units. The press was designed around my micro drill (now very old - at least 25 years). The base is the face plate off the lathe - rarely used with the lathe. The main column is the central rising shaft from a broken camera tripod ( the legs are still waiting to be made into a 3rd hand ). If you look you will see the pinion gear which engages the rack. It was originally part of the hand lever which raised and lowered the rack. The horizontal plates at the top and bottom of the rack are rigidly attached to the rack and they carry, and are rigidly attached to, the vertical bar which sits to the right of the rack. This forms a very rigid structure on to which the sliding frame which carries the drill sits. What is a bit odd about this arrangement is that the 3 armed handle for raising and lowering the drill actually goes up and down with the drill. The photos are probably clearer than my explanation. Interesting how the same problem can spin off many solutions. Not quite as elegant as yours but it works and appeals to my need for recycling.
  19. Today I did a bit of turning - bollards and the 6 larger winches. The plans only show the 6 deck winches whereas photos / videos clearly show some smaller secondary winches which I will have to make and position. The critical task was marking out the position and making sure that I drilled the mounting holes in the correct position. Check twice cut once was the watchword of the day. Nothing much further to add other than a few photos.
  20. Thank you Druxey. Greg - thank you, good point. Only a little progress today:- I made the mounting feet for the crutch and attached it to the deck. The feet are quite small - a smidgen over 1/8 inch cube. I also made the deck mounting for the "red duster". Made of two parts soldered together and machined. And then polished