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vossy

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About vossy

  • Birthday 09/12/1964

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    ballarat, victoria, AUSTRALIA!

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  1. Mamoli kit

    Have only half built one Mamoli kit (Golden Hind). Only half built her because that was all that came in the kit! Would never, ever buy another kit from them! Chris
  2. hey mike, 99% of the time I just use nails for the first planking. of course they are not driven in all the way and are easy to remove once the plank has dried and taken on its shape. at this stage it is pretty rare you will need any clamps to glue it into place, but if I find I do I mainly just use rubber bands. I also only ever put one plank on each side whilst waiting for it to dry. ok, so it does take a long time this way, but as I am doing this I just begin other aspects of the build. here you can begin deck furniture, guns, masts etc. so you are not really losing any time on the overall build. chris
  3. place and clamp the plank in as near to exact position as possible whilst it is wet/damp. allow to dry (I usually leave overnight), then glue in place. some extremely minor movement maybe required prior to final dry gluing, but not too much as to break the plank. Never glue damp or wet planks. it results in the glue being diluted, and thus not creating as strong a bond as you would desire and expect. also, wood expands and contracts when it is damp. once it is dry, it will hold its shape better. chris
  4. new important wreck discovered!

    Well Pat she is a fair way down. 300 meters I believe. It would take some serious equipment to get anywhere near her at that sort of depth given most conventional subs have a crush depth of about 400 meters. Of course increasing the penalty for looting such wrecks to maybe include being locked in a small room with a dozen or so very angry ex-pussers might also work! Chris
  5. hey kurt, is there anyway I can get a copy of the 6 page article you wrote for the construction of the Chaperon?

    pretty sure santa is bringing this kit and I would love to read your article.

     

    thanks

     

    chris

     

    1. kurtvd19

      kurtvd19

      Chris:
      It wasn't a 6 page article it was a series of six articles spread over  a year's worth of issues.
      I will take the text from the articles and compile it into a PDF for you.  However, this will not provide all of the photographs that were used in the article. But it will give you all of the issues I found and some work arounds and tips. As you get into the build and have a question check the build logs on MSW and if that doesn't clear it up maybe I can send a photo or explanation.
       
      I need you to send me your email so I can send it direct to you - as it's not going to fit into the message size here.  I don't want to list my email here though it is quite public - go to the NRG's web site (link on top of the MSW home page) and click on "About the NRG" and at the bottom of the page is a link to each of our names - click on mine and send your email to me.
       
      I will send the pdf tomorrow - bedtime right now.
      Take care,
      Kurt
    2. vossy

      vossy

      hey thanks kurt. don't know if that worked or not? but my email is - nielsenchris93@gmail.com

       

      thanks so much for your help.

       

      chris

       

  6. http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-12-21/hmas-ae1-submarine-found-after-century-long-search/9278782 RIP to all those brave souls who perished with her. Chris
  7. it still goes down periodically here. current date/time of writing this post is 18 December 10.00am, and the site has only just come back. chris
  8. Hi Derek, if you are talking about acrylic, (water based paints) I tend to just use good old tap water to thin them if needed. You can certainly buy special acrylic thinners, and some of these might be of use if your drying time is too short or long. Mostly though if the atmospheric conditions are pretty stable in the environment you paint in, tap water will do the trick just fine. Its more about experimenting with the level of thinning down required and the needle size you are painting with. As for cleaning, again with acrylic paints I use a product we get here called Windex. It is a mild window cleaning solution. If I spray through 1 small cup gun amount it cleans my set-up like brand new. Then I flush again with 1 cup of tap water. I have never had blockages in the needle assembly cleaning this way. Chris
  9. never imagined this question would get this much airplay and debate. but I thank you all very much for your input into what appears to be a somewhat curious poser by me. Chris
  10. Thanks guys. Any clue on what hue/variation of red was most commonly used? would it have varied within location and availability of colours? Thanks Chris
  11. Hi all, it seems to me that most colour pictures and models depict the paddle wheels of these vessels to be in various shades of red. Would this have been true in actuality? Also, if it is true would it have been the colour used to signal danger? i.e. don't go near this wheel etc? Would that be the main reason they all seem to be red? Thanks Chris
  12. Hey Mike, pictures tell a thousand words mate. Am sure someone here can help you out, but they really need visuals. Chris
  13. Hey Brian, if this is just first planking don't sweat it mate. Just sand, fill, sand again and move on. I guarantee that the second planking layer will be easier as you will have a nice smooth surface on which to lay them, plus the second planking layer is usually made from thinner and much more pliable timber than the first layer. Once you finish your model nobody will ever see or mention this first layer anyway. Chris
  14. Hey Mike, perhaps if you post a few pics and outline your problem we may be able to offer more help. Cheers Chris
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