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AndrewNaylor

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About AndrewNaylor

  • Birthday 06/07/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bristol Rhode island
  • Interests
    I am a private yacht captain working on yachts from 68 feet through 150 feet

Recent Profile Visitors

541 profile views
  1. Now that is a good looking well made very useful tool
  2. AndrewNaylor

    Crowfeet

    looks like you are doing a wonderful job of a very intricate part of the rigging Very satisfying I am sure when finished beautiful work Andy
  3. AndrewNaylor

    raising and lowering an anchor on a sloop

    Two words MAN DROLICS as everything was done back then MAN DROLICS to raise and lower the sails MAN DROLICS where used to tack and jibe the ship MAN DROLICS to steer and MAN DROLICS to launch the ships boats Maybe not the answer you where looking for but in reality the real answer with a little help from a few block and tackles Andy
  4. Sandor If you use a small vice, smooth jaws are a must as knurled faced jaws will mark your brass. A light flat faced hammer will easily bend the brass over and will create a sharp 90' bend for you Cut the pieces to length before bending as cutting after the bend is in will not work well at all even drilling any holes is much easier while the material is flat. If you are making a few of the same item's make a jig in the vice jaws to ensure the parts all fold at the same point. Andy
  5. A great build for new guys and galls and very well presented I am sure you will bring many more shipyards into the fold thanks Andy
  6. AndrewNaylor

    yacht rigging for 1:12 scale

    Try SS welding rod used for Tig welding It comes in many diameters and hardnesses A local wedding shop should be able to help Micro Dies for cutting threads will enable you to make turn buckles etc SS work hardens so you have to be careful about the number of times you bend or work it Andy
  7. AndrewNaylor

    Please help! What to buy.

    What ever you choose, practice, practice, practice. My preference is for a small point on the iron as most model parts are "Small and Fiddly" The parts must be clean yet again another hard job as the parts are "Small and Fiddly" and thirdly you have to hold the parts together, as you want them with alligator clips or the likes so when you touch them with the soldering iron tip or flame they do not move from how you set them. Quenching hot parts in cold water helps bring of any flux that might still be around after the job is done a damp sponge helps keep the irons tip clean and a good stand to hold the hoy iron in is essential When you master the art it's another box you can tick in your model building career. Andy
  8. Swedish Tar / Hoof oil comes in small jars and gives a nice dark colour It does take time to dry though but also gives of In my opinion a loverly traditional smell of hemp ropes can be thine easily
  9. Look on YouTube for "Keith Appleton" he makes wonderful videos about building small steam engines many play lists and a great sense of Yorkshire humor and has built many steam launches etc well worth many hours of viewing on cold damp winter evenings Andy
  10. AndrewNaylor

    What grit for disc sander?

    80 grit ir ROUGH !!! you can destroy your hard work in seconds We are by nature on this website as Modelers making small things so we need to be very careful using 80 grit can be a bit like "The Bull in the China shop" not quite sure it has to be a china shop I am sure a Bull would make a mess in any shop, except perhaps a butchers shop, but back to the point 80 grit is very very ROUGH so be careful Pick your fight Hard wood 100 grain soft wood 220 grit or just spend more time cutting closer to the mark so you do not need to sand so much off remember the more you sand the more stress you put into the wood so more likely to snap Happy sanding Andy
  11. AndrewNaylor

    Fokker DR 1 Building log

    Hi I am still waiting for my replacement kit due to the wing size issue been waiting 3 months now. Any how I have followed your build with great interest as Inhiope the start my kit soon How did you make the front engine cowl? I have just seen it on your last posting but can not recall seeing you talk about how you formed it the kit I received has a flat round sheet and requires some serious work!!!!! great build Andy
  12. Happy Birthday Dan You are starting to turn out ships faster than Kizer did in the USA in WW2!!!! Wonderful to see and get so many updates, rapid progress and variety All the best Andy
  13. AndrewNaylor

    Weather Report - post your significant weather - past or present

    As we all must know by now that live in the USA we have another BIG one heading towards the East / South coast next week I drive a yacht for a living so weather is a twice + daily visit to the web I have recently found a new site with very good graphics which I find very useful indeed "ventusky.com" Wind, Rain, Gusts, Snow, Air pressure, Wave hight etc easy to use Enjoy Andy
  14. Thank you and Happy building attached is a picture of my current Office in the Bahamas last year
  15. Messis I would love to help you but I am away from my shipyard for another 5 weeks ( I am a yacht captain ) But I am sure that if you take 1 of the Halyards attached to either the Crutch of the Gaff or the peak of the Gaff Lead it down through one of the 5 blocks a hole might need drilling through then lead back up to pin rack I see that you are working on the fore mast so you will not have gaffs but yard arms possibly 3 as it looks like a t least a 2 deck ship The one I built had a set of 3 shine blocks 1 attached to the yard arm the other attached just below the crows nest and then lead down to the Turning block on the deck and then on to the pin rack I have attached a drawing that I have just done I hope this helps Rigging drawing.pdf

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