Jump to content

AndrewNaylor

Members
  • Content count

    249
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About AndrewNaylor

  • Birthday 06/07/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bristol Rhode island
  • Interests
    I am a private yacht captain working on yachts from 68 feet through 150 feet

Recent Profile Visitors

419 profile views
  1. Please help! What to buy.

    What ever you choose, practice, practice, practice. My preference is for a small point on the iron as most model parts are "Small and Fiddly" The parts must be clean yet again another hard job as the parts are "Small and Fiddly" and thirdly you have to hold the parts together, as you want them with alligator clips or the likes so when you touch them with the soldering iron tip or flame they do not move from how you set them. Quenching hot parts in cold water helps bring of any flux that might still be around after the job is done a damp sponge helps keep the irons tip clean and a good stand to hold the hoy iron in is essential When you master the art it's another box you can tick in your model building career. Andy
  2. Swedish Tar / Hoof oil comes in small jars and gives a nice dark colour It does take time to dry though but also gives of In my opinion a loverly traditional smell of hemp ropes can be thine easily
  3. Look on YouTube for "Keith Appleton" he makes wonderful videos about building small steam engines many play lists and a great sense of Yorkshire humor and has built many steam launches etc well worth many hours of viewing on cold damp winter evenings Andy
  4. What grit for disc sander?

    80 grit ir ROUGH !!! you can destroy your hard work in seconds We are by nature on this website as Modelers making small things so we need to be very careful using 80 grit can be a bit like "The Bull in the China shop" not quite sure it has to be a china shop I am sure a Bull would make a mess in any shop, except perhaps a butchers shop, but back to the point 80 grit is very very ROUGH so be careful Pick your fight Hard wood 100 grain soft wood 220 grit or just spend more time cutting closer to the mark so you do not need to sand so much off remember the more you sand the more stress you put into the wood so more likely to snap Happy sanding Andy
  5. Fokker DR 1 Building log

    Hi I am still waiting for my replacement kit due to the wing size issue been waiting 3 months now. Any how I have followed your build with great interest as Inhiope the start my kit soon How did you make the front engine cowl? I have just seen it on your last posting but can not recall seeing you talk about how you formed it the kit I received has a flat round sheet and requires some serious work!!!!! great build Andy
  6. Weather Report - post your significant weather - past or present

    As we all must know by now that live in the USA we have another BIG one heading towards the East / South coast next week I drive a yacht for a living so weather is a twice + daily visit to the web I have recently found a new site with very good graphics which I find very useful indeed "ventusky.com" Wind, Rain, Gusts, Snow, Air pressure, Wave hight etc easy to use Enjoy Andy
  7. Thank you and Happy building attached is a picture of my current Office in the Bahamas last year
  8. Messis I would love to help you but I am away from my shipyard for another 5 weeks ( I am a yacht captain ) But I am sure that if you take 1 of the Halyards attached to either the Crutch of the Gaff or the peak of the Gaff Lead it down through one of the 5 blocks a hole might need drilling through then lead back up to pin rack I see that you are working on the fore mast so you will not have gaffs but yard arms possibly 3 as it looks like a t least a 2 deck ship The one I built had a set of 3 shine blocks 1 attached to the yard arm the other attached just below the crows nest and then lead down to the Turning block on the deck and then on to the pin rack I have attached a drawing that I have just done I hope this helps Rigging drawing.pdf
  9. I think you will find in the rigging diagram that halyards will run down to it and then up to the belay rack helping produce a mechanical advantage for the crew when lifting or lowering heavy loads. They have pulleys built into them to allow the rope to travel smoothly and would have been well built into the structure of the ship due to the large loads imposed on it Your Rigging plan will also show blocks attached to other rigging on the ship, same purpose different attachment The one on the deck has five blocks two is about the biggest up in the rigging. I hope this helps Andy
  10. R.I.P. Captain Bob

    So long Cpt Bob Thank you for all your likes and useful hints The Ship yard in the sky has another craftsman at the ways Andy
  11. Please take a survey

    As Cathead said "Emphasize on the interior" How about a Half model from the inside prospective That would be very different and allow a lot of bashing to customize with out been detrimental to the kit manufacturer. Andy
  12. Please take a survey

    I think Scotts "Discovery" was a combo Steam ship sailing ship Funnel propeller etc different from Shakletons but I get the picture For your US War ships kits, how about the ship used in the Philadelphia experiment. some times you see it some times you don't!!! or even a submarine plenty of famous Subs to chose from built just down the road in Portsmouth NH and Groton CT A Presidential yacht like the Trump'y Sequoia, NOT "Trump Princess" A NOAA ship like the one used to discover the Titanic An Ice Breaker with that wonderful bow The Edmund Fitzgerald lots of interest in this ship The "Mary Celeste" the skipper was from Marion there are lots of drawing and books on this ship Andy
  13. Please take a survey

    How about the Pilgrim's "Mayflower" or Captain Scotts "Discovery"from the Antartica or even the "Savanna" the worlds first nuclear powered cargo ship still afloat in Baltimore harbor Andy
×