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About glennreader

  • Birthday 01/07/1956

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    Potters Bar, UK

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  1. Chris, thanks for the encouragement. When I get there I certainly intend giving angle girders a go. It’s been sometime since I last got around to updating my logs. I have been making steady progress, 2 steps forward, 1 step backwards. I have been steadily working on the bridge assembly. It takes a long time to cut out all the small parts For the port and starboard lights I cut them out slightly longer, about double the length and then rolled them round the thinnest needle I could find. I was not too happy with the way cutting out the windows turned out and after I glued the piece in place I accidently squashed the top slightly and had to try and straighten it out. I also glued a bit of scrap across the underside of the roof to help when fitting the radio room. So about a week ago I had got to the point where this was all assembled. As I had some spare time I put it aside to do some work on the Scottish maid. When I came back it looked like I had sat on it. Do not know what had happened, no one else to blame. The front piece with the windows cut out, that I had squashed before was now in a very sorry state and the radio room had come away from the floor. At this point I decided that the front piece needed replacing, but I could just stick the rest back together. As I still had this piece on the thicker (0.33mm) card I originally printed I cut that out and used that. It cut out much better than the thinner card and the extra stiffness was a real bonus with the very thin frames. It looks a bit rough on top in the following pictures, may try using some filler. I still have the two side pieces to glue in place and then work out what I am going to do about the railings. I have downloaded the suggested template, but I might make my own template for this bit using the printed ones as a guide. There is a bit of scrap wood visible in this picture that I did not notice until I had downloaded them. I can see in this last picture that I have also squashed the red tube I made for the port light, must be more careful in future. Also my scoring and folding of small pieces in thick card is not very good, they spring back too much. Next bits I intend making are the skylights, instead of scoring and bending the side pieces I will cut the parts off and glue them together. I think I am getting a bit untidy in what I am doing here, as shown in the pictures. The trouble being that I cannot see any of this until I view the pictures. Using the illuminated magnifier I normally use during building I cannot see these issues. Especially the brown paint which is otherwise indistinguishable but stands out in the pictures. Once or twice I have felt like I want to start again, but I then think I am better seeing it through and then attempting something else of a similar nature. Glenn
  2. Popeye, thanks for the comments and thanks to everyone for the likes. Its been sometime since my last update. During this period I have been steadily working on the planking as time allows. The following pictures show my progress. Gradually planking down the stern post. I then added the last 2 planks on the stern post Then made my way towards the bow. At this point there are two planks left to go to finish this stage. Shown below, though the shorter of the two has been cut to shape it still needs to be cut to the correct length. Next it will be the Wales and the other row of thicker planking above them level with the deck. After that the deck and the bulwarks. I think I might have looked at the kit instructions a few months ago, they do not feature heavily in my plans. Still really enjoying hull planking. The second side defiantly better than the first side. Hopefully when I plank my next model I will retain these skills and continue from where I leave off. The earliest I see that being is late next year. Glenn
  3. If I understand your question correctly the answer is yes. But I explain why below in case we are at cross purposes. If you want all of the led's to be on at the same time then wire them in series. Then work out the total voltage across them all. For instance 5 leds is 5*2 = 10V or maybe 11V if it is really 2.2V per junction. With a 12V supply that leaves 1 or 2 volts across the resistor, so the new value will be 33 ohms or 68 ohms. That's the problem when the voltage across the resistor is small compared to the voltage across the led's. You can try and look up the actual voltage in the manufacturers data sheet or if you have a multi-meter you could measure it. For safety go with 68 ohms or alternatively go with 33 ohms and include a variable resistor to set the current to below the manufacturers maximum. The power rating of the required resistor is now much less as the voltage across it is much lower. One advantage in using led's in series, the power is being used in providing light and not heating up a resistor. You should NOT wire led's in parallel using the same resistor. But there is no problem in having say 2 groups in series each with their own resistor. Hope that makes sense. I am trying not to get too technical, which is why I have not given an explanation for not wiring led's in parallel. Glenn
  4. There are two equations you need to know to work this out. Ohms law V=IR and the power equation W=VI In your circuit the voltage across the resistor is the voltage of the power supply minus the voltage across the led 12 - 2 = 10V. Therefore to get a value for this resistor rearrange ohms law and substitute the known values. R = V / I = 10 / .03 =333 ohms. The nearest common value you can buy is 330 ohms. To get its power rating W = IV = 0.03 * 10 = 0.3W. So as long as the resistor you use has at least that rating there will be no problems. Up to a point using a higher value resistor will just lower the light output from the led. If you used a variable resistor you could adjust the brightness. The safest way to do this is to put a 330 ohm resistor in series with the variable resistor. That way you cannot turn it down too much and overload the led which will shorten its life. If you used a 560 ohm resistor (570 not readily available) you would only need 1/4 watt. Hope that helps, Glenn
  5. Hi, hope everyone got what they wanted for Christmas. I got a Lansky sharpening system. I have started working my way through all the knives in the kitchen draw. It also does wonders with a worn scalpel blade. As good as new in a couple of minutes. Though it does not solve my major sharpening problem, which is how to sharpen miniature chisels. After my last post I decided to do the garboard strake next. So I worked out how wide this should be by looking at how far the next 5 complete runs of planks should get me. I also, rather late in the day decided to cut a rabbet for the rest of the planking. As the steel rule is the same thickness as the planks, I held this against the keel and scored along it with a knife, then used a chisel to cut the rabbet along the keel. For the bow I used a plank, bent to shape and scored along that before using a 3mm chisel. In the following picture the garboard strake is in place and I have been filling in from the sternpost. I have 10 planks remaining which will be cut from the 6 lengths of wood shown. You can just about see the numbers written on the first layer of planks. First to be filled is that bit left going nearest the stern. Then I finished off the 3 strakes next to the garboard strake. Finally one side is complete from Wale to keel. Now just as Mike said I now need plenty of patience, sandpaper and elbow grease. I am ok with the last 2 of these, it’s the first one that I sometimes fall down on. I have given this side a rough sanding to take out all those bits standing proud. This shows me that there are a few minor depressions, where the planks I sawed from the original blank came out a bit thin. Before doing any more on this side I will get the other side to the same point. I have marked where the strakes go and will again do the garboard next and then work forward from the stern post. Glenn
  6. Back with another update. I have now skinned the upper hull, which all went smoothly. If I was to do this again I would make 1 change. Either I would replace the two pieces of rubbing strake on each side with one single piece, or I would put the longer piece at the rear so that the join in the rubbing strake did not coincide with the join in the hull skins. I think it would just make the join a little less obvious. I then did the forecastle, which did not come out as well as I would have liked. The problem was as I was gluing part 13a into place I pushed one of the sides in a bit, which I did not notice at the time. This upset the angle and position on the opposite side, also not noticed. When I had let the glue dry and came to review this it all became apparent. My thoughts at this time were along the lines of, this was for learning lessons and I have just learnt a lesson. If I was to do this again I would add an additional frame half way between frame 8c and the bow, which would prevent this and give it more rigidity. I then added the support and part 13b to finish off the forecastle. I used a short length of 0.5mm plastic tube for the support instead of wire. Saved from my AFV modelling days many decades ago. At this point in Chris’s guide we add the propeller guards and the rudder. I will leave these till later, if for no other reason than they look too easy to damage. So far I have been making parts 23 and 24. I have also been cutting out parts 25-30 and the smaller parts to detail these. Since Chris wrote his build instructions part 24b has been corrected. However there is still nothing to form the back of the tall bit of part 23. What I did was cut the tabs from part 23b and stick a bit of card over the full width of the back. Having previously checked that this would not affect the positioning of part 24. When I fitted part 23b to part 23a the ends did not meet at the rear of the structure. I think this is due to my card being a little too thick. I have clued a strip inside this and will cut another narrow strip to fill this gap and then paint it. As you can see I have not yet painted any of the edges on this. I am waiting until I can do as much as possible at the same time. I had a similar problem with piece 24b that wraps round the front of part 24a (miss numbered 27d), Again the ends would not have quite met. Though this time I was ready and trimmed the tab so the ends just butted up leaving a little strip to be painted. I also reinforced this with a strip behind. The close ups I took of this were too blurred to be of any use, though this is shown somewhat in the following pictures of the superstructure so far. One question about part 24c (shown below) if anyone knows. There are these little dashes to either side and in the middle. Does this mean these parts should be scored and folded along that line (to make an angle girder)? I also think they have missed an opportunity with these parts. I can see 8 plates and 11 girders which could all be individual bits. Then there are those hex nut and bolt heads to cut out😀 Glenn
  7. Wow, that's quick. Looking good. The time to allow CA glue near rope work is when applying a small drop with the point of a needle to make sure a knot does not come undone. Using thin CA, it will wick into the knot and 'fix' it. To get a picture where you want it. Position your curser and then click on the picture at the bottom. Any pictures you have not positioned this way seem to appear at the end. Glenn
  8. A quick post just to show I am still making progress and not just working on the V108 torpedo boat. Hull planking is not an exciting topic. Here is a view of the bottom of the hull. Just the bilges to go. After the strakes I am working on, there are 6 strakes left on one side and 7 on the other. The garboard strakes should end up slightly wider than the rest. Glenn
  9. Before I continue with the build here is a picture of the tools I have used so far. Not shown is the illuminated magnifier, which I use instead of the one shown here when I need more light. I Can do this sitting downstairs with the wife. For the thin cutting I use the scalpel no. 11 blade, but for the laminated stuff the one with the 10A blade. I find the bit of extra stiffness makes it a bit steadier. The pot contains diluted PVA and the bottle with a needle on the top normal PVA. I find I am using the 6” ruler a lot more than the 12” one. First was to fit all the hull formers above part 9. This caused the part to curl up a bit. This was counter acted when the main deck, part 12 was fitted. Note the weights. I used normal PVA for this. I then cut out the parts required to skin this. Thanks to Chris for pointing out the centre marks at the rear of part 12a and the centre of part 15. I would not have noticed them otherwise. The most difficult part of this was cutting out those concave bits that go at the rear of the forecastle. I did this by nibbling away with the point of the No. 11 blade. In case anyone is interested the card I am using is about 1/3mm thick. To facilitate skinning the hull I doubled the 3b bulkhead to give more surface where part 15 joins parts 14. Still got to sand this. Now my first mistake. In my haste to start skinning the hull I put on part 15 before adding the rubbing strakes, which I then had to apply to this part in situ. It was not too hard, I held a 6” ruler flat against the deck and applied diluted PVA lightly to the first inch of the rubbing strake. I then put this in place pushing it up against the ruler. Once dry I added glue to the rest pushing it into place as I did so. I would say the second side looks a lot better than the first. After trying to apply a felt tip to the edges of these, whenever possible I now colour the edges of very narrow pieces before cutting them out. I then applied the rubbing strakes to the first of the two parts 14, I need to fit the second. Once I have done this I need to add the frames for the forecastle before I add these two pieces. I like to think I am improving. I am getting to know how much glue to apply and getting better at cutting out the pieces. Though concave curves still get me. I can see how really small ones can be done with a punch, which I do not have. But the only way I can see to do those with a larger radius is freehand Glenn.
  10. I am starting a second build. Normally I do not like to do this, but as they are different media I think this will work. This is because I have some spare time when, for various reasons, I cannot work on wooden models but would still be able to do something that does not make too much mess like a card model. I have made some simple paper/card models before and quite enjoyed it and the increase in card model builds here has piqued my interest. Also I am also wondering if I can make this model for totally zero further outlay. Do I already have absolutely everything I need around the house to make this? I will give it a go. The tutorial produced by Chris will be my guide. Though I will probably deviate in places (who doesn’t), sometimes because I might want to do something different, sometimes just to keep to my criteria of only using stuff I already have. First job was to print the sheets on both paper and card stock. I had downloaded them some time ago. So in response to Chris’s posting on Jan 5th 2017 stating that this has been downloaded over 140 times and asking where all the build logs are. Here is one of them, I had downloaded this before then. Have I really been thinking about doing this for over 2 years. I then separated the parts that need laminating from the paper copies and stuck them to some 1mm card I had lying around. This is the stuff used for borders in picture framing which I have large supplies of in many colours and thicknesses, 1mm is the thinnest I have. I have got some spray contact adhesive, but I laminated these using slightly diluted PVA, to see how it would work. I brushed this onto the card, to create an even layer then positioned the parts that needed laminating, then used a wallpaper roller to squeeze out any excess glue. When dry these were very securely attached, so I proceeded to cutting them out. This is when I found out why laser cut framing is so preferred by experienced card modellers. After 2 pieces I would have thrown my criteria to only use bits I already had to the wind if laser cut framing had been available. We now skip the next 3 days while I laboriously cut out the rest of the framing and I still have the laminated deck pieces to go. There are some scrap pieces in the picture to help joining the longer parts. For some reason I did no work on the Scottish Maid in this period. So much for this not slowing that build down. I have done the bits for below the waterline as well. I may do this, but it appears to me that I do not have to make a decision yet. I think I would like to, so I get some practice at skinning the bottom. That is where I am. The next job is to clean up some of the slots where the fit is a bit tight. I will be back once I have done that and started gluing. Still not sure about attempting two builds at the same time. Glenn
  11. Very interesting. This is how I intend to do the bulwark stanchions on my Scottish Maid, when I get that far. I will be following your progress keenly. Its surprising that this is the first log I have seen where someone is trying this technique. It looks like you are making a very good job of this. Until I spotted this log I was unaware that this kit, with all the internal detail was available. It makes for a very interesting model and one I have added to my list. Glenn
  12. Ah. This is now called the 'Rudder spigot'. Your model probably did not include these instructions that can be freely downloaded from the AL website. Go to https://www.artesanialatina.net/en/classic-collection/429-scottish-maid-classic-collection.html Select the instructions tab and then download '18021 Color'. Panel 12 may be of help. It shows how to make the rudder and fit the 'helm axel' or 'Rudder spigot' and where that hole should be. I agree, drilling that hole does not look easy. My plan is to position a vertical post on the drill stand and align the drill so it is on top of the post. If I then hold the stern post of the model against this post with the deck upmost and drill down through the deck etc, then the drill should come out just behind the stern post, where it should. Does that make sense? Glenn
  13. No such part on my newer kit. Maybe it is what is now labelled as 'Rudder wheel shaft'. A short length of 0.8mm brass rod that is part of the steering gear, forming the axel for the wheel and a drum for the rudder tiller rope. Glad you managed to take a sharper picture, the colours of the woods are looking good. For anyone thinking of getting this kit, it now includes pre-cut pieces for the forward sections of the capping rail, eliminating the need for a sideways bend. The rest can easily be done with straight strip. Glenn
  14. I know its been a long wait, but thanks to every one that looks in and as always thanks to popeye for the encouragement. Progress was very slow for a few weeks. I have been marking maths papers and there was a death in the family. Getting done everything that is required when someone dies is very time consuming. Not finished, but the bulk of it is now behind me. I have been progressing with the second planking and the rate should pick up a bit now. On the first side I have completed 2 strakes above the wale and 7 strakes below, to the point where the next strake will abut with the stern post and not run up the counter. Also a couple of closer shots Those of you who are paying attention may at this point notice something wrong with the bow. If not here is another picture to help. There was an accident. I am one of those people who plank in their lap. The model was on an old towel on my lap and I reached for the glue. As I did so the model gracefully launched itself pointy end first onto the wooden floor. It was a bit surreal. I just sat and watched it go, as if it was in slow motion. I am certain I could have just reached out and stopped it. Still it is a very clean break and when held in place the break cannot be seen, so at the appropriate point, when it is needed I can glue it back on. As for the other side, I have not got quite as far. I will catch up with the first side before going further with either side. The lines mark where every 4th frame would be on the original. On the model this is where planks start and finish. I had a lot of trouble drawing these lines. I think I must invest in a laser level. This is the first time I have attempted planking like this on the hull, instead of using a continuous plank for each strake. The most important thing that I have learnt, very quickly, is that every plank is a different length. These differences are only small, up to about 4mm, obviously caused by the curve of the hull. But they necessitate that each plank is laid in place on the hull to be measured and cut to length. I am very much enjoying this approach and would recommend it. I am finding it easier than continuous planks and cannot see myself going back to that method. Like with all things there is a learning curve and there are some small gaps in places, but I am sure I can cover these up so they are not too noticeable. Also hopefully there will be no more. A close up of the stern. I was pleased with the way the wood I am using bent over this section. After a couple of hours soaking it took to the shape very easily. There is a small gap between the rear of the stern post and the plank. This will not be a problem as it is required to remove material there to make a hole for the rudder trunk. Not sure if I will just make a round hole for this or try and make it with a section like a quarter circle, which, I think, would be more accurate and more interesting to attempt. Once I reach the keel I will sand all the planking before doing the wales and the 3rd plank above the wales which is also slightly thicker. I am using this drawing as a planking guide. This is the original, that I scanned in. I printed this out then used the frame that the bulkheads came in to draw the outline of the largest bulkhead in the middle. I then took a guess at the 'centre' and drew lines radiating from this to the edge of the wales to determine their position. I cannot fit quite so many strakes in, so above the wale there are 2 normal strakes then the 3rd strake will be the same thickness as the wale. Above this will be a rail and then the bulwark planking. Though I shall do the cover plank and the deck planking before I do the bulwark stanchions and planking. That's all I can think of to say about hull planking. Actually, I am surprised I got that much. Glenn
  15. I think caulking is a bit suck it and see. I do not think that colouring the edge looks very even, especially if the wood is not good quality. Then again gluing paper to the edges is very difficult with very thin planks, not really practical with anything less than 1mm. On my last model, with 0.6mm planks, I tried gluing cotton between the planks as I laid them. I think this was reasonable, but not easy to do the ends. Also you have to be very careful not to sand the thread when sanding the deck, otherwise it frays and looks terrible. When I get to it on my Scottish Maid, I am going to replace the supplied wood with some 1mm planks I have and try sticking black paper to the edges. I have not tried this method before. Though I am a bit worried about how to scale it will look - use thin paper. I would suggest that if you have any spare wood you try it out somewhere off the model. You could then compare the different methods and see what you like. If you have not seen it, try reading this article: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Deck_PlankingIIbuttshifts.pdf. Glenn

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