Moxis

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About Moxis

  • Birthday 12/16/1947

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    Lahti, Finland

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  1. Wonderful work Michael, I really like your machine tools and would like to steal a couple of ideas for my own machines too. I have an Optimum BF20 Vario milling machine, which I am very satisfied, but one thing bothers me when using tiny milling cutters or drill bits: The chuck which should be the most accurate available for this machine, is not running completely true. I have used also small collets which run better, but are not always convenient when changing the drilling bit, because at the same time you have to change the collet too. So my question: Which chuck are you using with your micro drill press, and how accurately is it running?
  2. At least Ancre`s drawing for cutter Le Cerf ( built 1779 - 1780) suggests the lower type. Funny thing is that I have just finished the 16 pcs 6 pounders, and still working with the 8 pounders for my model:
  3. Thanks Bill, that was my first carving ever made with a rotary tool.
  4. And here they are finally on the deck of Le Cerf. Not yet rigged but otherwise finished: Carriages made. I know that there should be a thin chain at the trunnion fastening piece, but I couldn`t find chain thin enough. The smallest chain I found was a silvery one made of 0,3 mm wire, but that looked like anchor chain at this scale. So instead of chains small rivets:
  5. Thank you Ron for your explanation about those location bumps & indentations. They are exactly for that reason! And thank you Allan for your link. I must study it carefully and use this method the next time I make the castings.
  6. Thanks Allan for your message, and all "likes" as well. It is true that the seam which builds up if you use a two part mold, is a nuisance. So far however I have managed to remove it by gently cutting it away with a sharp blade and sanding the rest. The single piece mold is very interesting solution, of which I would gladly like to know more. Like which rubber are you using, and how do you manage to take a casting away without breaking the mold. A good idea is also to provide a small indentation for trunnion drilling. So far I have managed to drill the holes with careful starting of the drilling. I have left a small indentation only to the business end of the barrel to be able to drill the hole for cannonball accurately centric, that was easy to make when turning the master in the lathe.
  7. I was thinking this a lot, and decided to make casting without the trunnions, because I wanted to keep the cast as simple as possible. With trunnions in place there is a risk that the resin does not fill the cavern completely because there always remain pockets filled with air. And it is relatively simple work to drill the holes and add them afterwards.
  8. I have made a couple of tanks and a Bugatti 35, all from scratch and in the scale 1/6. Here you can find the build blog for the Bugatti: http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/classics-and-vintage/107307-bugatti-35-1-6-scale.html
  9. First I decided not to issue this at all, but after having seen here elsewhere Chuck`s tutorial about casting the thin carvings out of PU, I decided to publish also my method to cast cannon barrels. I have used this method many times before when building my car & tank models, so I had a little experience about the chemicals and working methods also before starting to cast cannons. The first thing was naturally to turn a pattern for the barrel in the lathe: Next thing to do is to make a spruce, a channel through which the liquid resin is poured into the mold. For this a piece of 3 mm iron wire was used: And then we can start making the mold. First a small box was made of 3 mm MDF. The pattern together with spruce was installed into one of the walls of this box, approximately at half height of the short wall. Then liquid silicone rubber was poured into the box so that the level is at the middle of the barrel. Sorry that there is no picture of this phase. I was using Oomoo 25 silicone rubber, made by Smooth-On. It consists of two parts A and B, small amount of each is measured into a small container, mixed thoroughly and poured into the box. When cured, releasing agent was applied to the lower part of the mold and new batch of silicone rubber was made and poured to the box and let cure. This is how the first half of a mold looks like, when dismantled from the box. The pattern with spruce is still on its place: And here you can see the both halves of the mold. A cone is provided at the top of mold where resin is poured. Small air venting channels are also cut at the top of the barrel to have air to escape when resin is poured into mold: The mold is closed and polyurethane resin is prepared by using equal amounts of part A and B of the Smooth Cast 305 resin from the same manufacturer as the rubber. Parts are stirred very carefully and poured into the cone of the mold. It would have been possible at this phase to add some metal powder to the resin, to have the barrel really look like cast out of metal. I have however found out that if metal powder is added into the resin, it will become very stiff and doesn`t flow very easily into the spruce & fill the barrel cavern completely. Resin has been poured and it can be seen that it has raised into the air venting channels too, which proves that the barrel cavern is filled as well: After the resin has cured and mold opened, the spruce and barrel look like this: Now it remains only to clean the barrel, drill holes for the axle pin, ignition powder and naturally for the cannonball, and glue a small glass pearl into the back of the barrel: And finally paint the barrels. I wanted them to look like old patinated bronze, so I mixed Model Master gloss black enamel paint with AK Interactive`s old bronze metal color. Diluted them so that the paint could be airbrushed on the barrels. And finally, when dry the barrels were wiped lightly with a soft cloth to get the look of old patinated bronze:
  10. What kind of CA are you using which cures immediately. I have tried to use this type of glue several times for wood/wood junctions, but have had very bad results. The glue doesn't cure at all, and has to be replaced with epoxy or PVA. I have understood that the CA works only with metal, glass, certain plastics, etc. which are not porous like wood. If I need instant bonding with wood, I have had good results with so called contact glue, which is applied on both surfaces, let to dry, and then pressed together.
  11. Extraordinary, what a wonderful picture. Thanks a lot G. Delacroix
  12. My build of Le Cerf is nearing the phase when I have to start rigging the ship's cannons. There are 16 pcs 6 pounders and 2 pcs 8 pounders on the deck, but unfortunately the plans lack completely their rigging. Because of this I wonder if any of you might give me a link or tutorial to show how these are rigged in the correct way.
  13. I bought their monographie Le Cerf, which is a nice cutter of the French Navy from the end of 17. century. The package included a small book of the ship and a set of very well drawn and accurate plans with 12 sheets, everything in English. There are some discrebances in the plans, but careful studying helps understanding them and avoiding mistakes. I am very pleased with the package, and the model of Le Cerf is progressing well:
  14. When considering material for my present project's sails, I have read from various tutorials that people have used silkspan. It seems however that silkspan is not any more easy to find from model shops. Instead they are suggesting to use litespan, which is widely used for aeroplane models. But is litespan same product as silkspan, and can it be used for shipmodel sails in the same manner as silkspan?
  15. Wonderful pictures, thank you Talos. I wil surely choose one of them as my next project. The only question is, from which of them it would be easiest to find the best plans. I quess Seawatch's Susquehanna might be the best bet?