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About Moxis

  • Birthday 12/16/1947

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    Lahti, Finland

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  1. For our next project, a steam powered tug, made at Ahlstrom in 1877, we have made the keel and bulkheads drawing them on the original plan with Autocad and cutting with laser. So far the ptoject has started nicely. https://api.laivadata.fi/v1/attachments/58e2b648255dbc34a3a83ae0/data
  2. Thanks a lot Wayne! Exactly what I was looking for, comparison of the various programs. So Fusion360 is my choice!
  3. When I had to make sharp bends into thin brass sheet, I made a simple jig of 6x30 mm iron bar. First I cut suitable pieces of the bar, milled straight the two mating edges, made the holes and threads and screwed parts together so that the other jaw is fixed and the other can be moved a couple of millimeters: Then I was locating a piece of brass sheet between the "jaws", tightened the allen screws lightly and put the jig between the jaws of my workbench: Bent first the brass piece with fingers, and finally tapped it slightly with a hammer to get sharp bend: And voila, you have a rather sharp bend. This works with brass of thickness, say 0,1.....1,0 millimeters. And with this jig it is possible to make "angle iron" of brass sheet up to about 20 cm length:
  4. Retirement

    Hello Keith, you have an interesting looking white milling machine there at your mancave. Could you tell more about it?
  5. Retirement

    Before retirement (about five years ago) I bought as many tools I could afford. A lathe, milling machine, cnc router etc. Now that I have a lot of time to use them, but not so much money any more, I am glad about this decision.
  6. Does anybody have experience about both, the Onshape and Fusion free version (for a retired hobbyist)? I am considering to download the program, but don't know which one to choose.
  7. With my latest build S/S Maaninka I covered the hull with 0,05 mm thick aluminium plates. These were glued with long curing time epoxy made by Loctite. This gives you the possibility to fine tune the position of the plates, which contact cement doesn't. A messy work, but so far no disintegration has happened.
  8. Visit To England

    Very useful information. I have to follow these hints next time we visit UK. So far we have only seen some of the major museums & Land Rover and vintage car happenings which there are so many too.
  9. Thanks for this idea wefalck! I thought it too to make only one boat and fabricate a form of silicone rubber or other stuff and then cast or laminate copies of that with fibreglass or equivalent. But this big boats need lot of material, so perhaps they will be more expensive this way than just buy ready plastic lifeboats. After all it is not a very big work to start series fabrication and build all four boats from scratch. And as said, this is hobby without any schedules, and then I can say to everybody that the whole thing has been made by me.
  10. After short thinking I decided to buy a plan from Model Dockyard about 30 ft lifeboat drawn in scale 1/48. https://www.model-dockyard.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=lifeboat&PN=Harold-Underhil That results approximately into 185 mm long boat, which is a bit short but acceptable. After shipping & taxation the price is approximately that of one ready made plastic boat. The project has no schedule, no matter if I build these lifeboats for one year longer, after all this is hobby and not work.
  11. Thanks Nils I have to consider these. You are right, a bit pricey and not in stock. But on the other hand, I am not in a hurry. But making 4 pcs from scratch, not very appealing. Well, thinking thinking....
  12. For my S/S Maaninka project I need 4 pcs lifeboats about 200 mm long and clinker hull. I wonder if I could find them somewhere as ready made or some sort of a kit, I think I have not energy enough to start to build them from scratch.
  13. When I was building my model of the Clara May a few years ago I met the same problem. After thinking hard I finally used following method: First I made the form of the compass dome out of plasticine. When ready, I covered it with a jelly mixed of epoxy and milled fibreglass "dust". When the first layer was cured I applied second layer of the same stuff. And finally when everything had cured, I cut an oval hole on the dome where the glass should be situated. Through this hole plasticine was removed and voila, I got a hollow quite strong dome which was then sanded smooth and painted with brass paint. The last thing was to glue a printed compass rose inside the dome and an oval transparent "glass" into the hole and the compass was ready.
  14. For many years I have been using Optimum's BF20 vario, and have been very satisfied with it. It is a heavy and accurate machine, and speed control range is large enough. I have installed also digital readouts for x and y axles, which helps a lot working. As stock it has digital readout for z axle too. I have made a few steam engines, 1/6 scale car & tank, and a few ship models, for which several parts have been made with this mill. My friend has a BF16, and he is also very satisfied with the machine. He is building airplane models. With this experience I could warmly recommend this machine for modeling work.
  15. Finland checking in

    Terve vaan John täältä Suomesta! You might try to contact the Maritime Museum in Maarianhamina: https://www.sjofartsmuseum.ax/en/ They have a lot of information about old sailing ships used to sail under Finnish flag.

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