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About Moxis

  • Birthday 12/16/1947

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    Lahti, Finland

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  1. Thanks a lot for your opinions guys, this is what I thought too. A toy which doesn't perform satisfactorily any of the functions promised. So better to save one's hard earned cash and leave it to the shop.
  2. I found at facebook an interesting video about this machine. It does 3D printing, laser engraving and cnc carving, and price seems to be attractive too. But does it everything what it promises? https://www.solopopgo.com/products/all-metal-3d-printer
  3. I have sometimes used the Proxxon drill chuck with a Proxxon arbor in a bigger lathe to turn very small parts which are not possible to attach in a big lathe 3 jaw chuck. The first picture is showing this: The second picture shows the size difference of Proxxon 3 jaw chuck and drill chuck on the bed of DB250 lathe together with lathe spindle thread. From this picture it is easy to see that the drill chuch does not fit on the lathe spindle thread:
  4. One possibility might be to use AK Interactive's old bronze paint diluted in turpentine or similar and mixed with small amount of black paint. I was using this mixture to paint my cannons with Le Cerf project. At least I was quite happy with the result. https://ak-interactive.com/product/true-metal-old-bronze/
  5. Thanks a lot Rick for an interesting method. I have to try this when starting a new project. Very interesting feature is also to add more bulkheads if there are not enough them at the original plan. For this I should however get some sort of 3D cad and learn to use it, but that is another story. Interesting is also the fact that the bulkheads shown at the drawing represent the outer surface of the ship. And when you make the bulkheads after the drawing, you have to deduct the thickness of planking from them. I wonder how many of us are doing that. It is very difficult to redraw the bulkheads so that the outer form remains unchanged. So far I have made only 2 or 3 models and have made my bulkheads exactly as shown on drawing, so resulting to slightly larger hulls than they should be. But who will notice that? But you are right, when building a museum model, you should take also this fact in consideration.
  6. Yes Bill, I have tried that. However the result was that there were so many rubbish pixels even in the drawing of one bulkhead which had to be cleaned one by one, so that it was not worth the work. So I did my bulkheads in the old school method by making first a template of all bulkhead halves, drew the complete bulkheads on plywood using those templates, and sawed the bulkheads away. Much faster than clean those rubbish pixels.
  7. Thanks cog and amateur! I am working hard to produce the video that many people have wished. When I tested the rc equipment a few weeks ago, I noticed that the electronic speed control unit was dead. A new unit was ordered from China, and immediately when it arrives and is working correctly, I will make the video.
  8. Plywood is very seldom straight enough to be used as a base. To eliminate that I have attached straight angle irons below the plywood with screws. That keeps the base straight and heavy enough for building the hull.
  9. Nice work Aviaamator, you have a well equipped workshop to do what ever you like.
  10. Thank you all very much for your kind words! The ship has been standing on her cradle for a while now, and I have kind of lost interest in her because of new projects. However now I have got back the lacking interest in her and have tried her in the bathtub to see if she will keep on surface, and in which position. She proved to be too light, so more weight must be added. Because of this I decided to install at least two loudspeakers with a sound unit and amplifier inside her, and have it programmed with sounds of engine, original steam whistle and telegraf bell. So hopefully there will still be a maiden voyage with a video in the future.
  11. For our next project, a steam powered tug, made at Ahlstrom in 1877, we have made the keel and bulkheads drawing them on the original plan with Autocad and cutting with laser. So far the ptoject has started nicely. https://api.laivadata.fi/v1/attachments/58e2b648255dbc34a3a83ae0/data
  12. Thanks a lot Wayne! Exactly what I was looking for, comparison of the various programs. So Fusion360 is my choice!
  13. Hello Nils. You have exactly same problem than me, I really don't know where to put the Maaninka model now that it is completed. I have in my hobby room a T-26 tank, Unimog, Bugatti and few other quite large things, so soon there is no empty table any more to build models. My wife has suggested me the same as yours: not to build any more models. But I don't think I will obey her. On the contrary, we have today discussed with a couple of my friends to start to build not only one but three steam engine powered boats. We will see how this idea is progressing, me particularly would be very enthusiastic to start building my first steam engine.
  14. Others have already said everything about this magnificant project so that I just cannot say anything more but only agree those words. I think I know exactly your feelings now, on the other hand very satisfied to have the project finished, but on the other hand a bit empty feeling trying to decide what to build next. At least I have that kind of feelings at present.
  15. Thank you all for your kind words & likes. Very motivating to get feedback like this. Updating of the project has been a bit slow, due to nasty influenza, traveling in southern Europe and summer, which has finally arrived here. So there are a lot of other activities outside too, than sitting in the dark and dusty basement building the model. But finally I have made all the details on the boat deck too, like the funnel with steam pipes & whistle, lifeboats including davits, and masts with their simple rigging. So we could consider the model ready. What is still missing are the functional tests and maiden voyage. And if the model is sinking or captisizes immediately, let`s keep it as a static model. But if it behaves reasonably, it may offer nice moments when sailing at it`s own surroundings. A few words about the details on boat deck. The funnel has been made of solid balsa. Spark filter on top of it is made of admiral`s tea strainer. (please do not tell her about that). Lifeboats are made of solid balsa. First I thought to make them with POB method, but that would have taken too much work and time, and because they are covered with tarpaulin, nobody could see the inner parts of them. Davits are 4 mm round aluminium rod, bent and upper parts sanded flat. Blocks for davits are styrene. So here we are. The model is ready and I hope that it behaves nicely on water so that I can make a nice video of it soon. Because I think you all are waiting it very eagerly.

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