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About Moxis

  • Birthday 12/16/1947

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    Lahti, Finland

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  1. Very nice tutorial torpedochief! I have always thought that the etch preventing film must be on both sides of the brass. So this is much easier method. But there remains one question: Where to get and what exactly is the brand of this plastic coated paper?
  2. I just love many of your building methods like using the coal fibre strips to check the lines of the hull, plank bending with help of heated aluminium profiles, and tying of planks with polyester string during glue curing. All of these methods are quite new to me and I am sure I will use them with my next build, whatever it might be.
  3. Moxis

    New member

    Hello MHo and welcome on board. Nice to have fellow members here from Finland.
  4. Thanks a lot for your opinions guys, this is what I thought too. A toy which doesn't perform satisfactorily any of the functions promised. So better to save one's hard earned cash and leave it to the shop.
  5. I found at facebook an interesting video about this machine. It does 3D printing, laser engraving and cnc carving, and price seems to be attractive too. But does it everything what it promises? https://www.solopopgo.com/products/all-metal-3d-printer
  6. I have sometimes used the Proxxon drill chuck with a Proxxon arbor in a bigger lathe to turn very small parts which are not possible to attach in a big lathe 3 jaw chuck. The first picture is showing this: The second picture shows the size difference of Proxxon 3 jaw chuck and drill chuck on the bed of DB250 lathe together with lathe spindle thread. From this picture it is easy to see that the drill chuch does not fit on the lathe spindle thread:
  7. One possibility might be to use AK Interactive's old bronze paint diluted in turpentine or similar and mixed with small amount of black paint. I was using this mixture to paint my cannons with Le Cerf project. At least I was quite happy with the result. https://ak-interactive.com/product/true-metal-old-bronze/
  8. Thanks a lot Rick for an interesting method. I have to try this when starting a new project. Very interesting feature is also to add more bulkheads if there are not enough them at the original plan. For this I should however get some sort of 3D cad and learn to use it, but that is another story. Interesting is also the fact that the bulkheads shown at the drawing represent the outer surface of the ship. And when you make the bulkheads after the drawing, you have to deduct the thickness of planking from them. I wonder how many of us are doing that. It is very difficult to redraw the bulkheads so that the outer form remains unchanged. So far I have made only 2 or 3 models and have made my bulkheads exactly as shown on drawing, so resulting to slightly larger hulls than they should be. But who will notice that? But you are right, when building a museum model, you should take also this fact in consideration.
  9. Yes Bill, I have tried that. However the result was that there were so many rubbish pixels even in the drawing of one bulkhead which had to be cleaned one by one, so that it was not worth the work. So I did my bulkheads in the old school method by making first a template of all bulkhead halves, drew the complete bulkheads on plywood using those templates, and sawed the bulkheads away. Much faster than clean those rubbish pixels.
  10. Thanks cog and amateur! I am working hard to produce the video that many people have wished. When I tested the rc equipment a few weeks ago, I noticed that the electronic speed control unit was dead. A new unit was ordered from China, and immediately when it arrives and is working correctly, I will make the video.
  11. Plywood is very seldom straight enough to be used as a base. To eliminate that I have attached straight angle irons below the plywood with screws. That keeps the base straight and heavy enough for building the hull.
  12. Nice work Aviaamator, you have a well equipped workshop to do what ever you like.
  13. Thank you all very much for your kind words! The ship has been standing on her cradle for a while now, and I have kind of lost interest in her because of new projects. However now I have got back the lacking interest in her and have tried her in the bathtub to see if she will keep on surface, and in which position. She proved to be too light, so more weight must be added. Because of this I decided to install at least two loudspeakers with a sound unit and amplifier inside her, and have it programmed with sounds of engine, original steam whistle and telegraf bell. So hopefully there will still be a maiden voyage with a video in the future.
  14. For our next project, a steam powered tug, made at Ahlstrom in 1877, we have made the keel and bulkheads drawing them on the original plan with Autocad and cutting with laser. So far the ptoject has started nicely. https://api.laivadata.fi/v1/attachments/58e2b648255dbc34a3a83ae0/data
  15. Thanks a lot Wayne! Exactly what I was looking for, comparison of the various programs. So Fusion360 is my choice!

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