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Moxis

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About Moxis

  • Birthday 12/16/1947

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lahti, Finland

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  1. Thanks Pete, I will definitely try this. Until today it seems to be best program for this purpose.
  2. Every time I start a new project I have wondered how easy it would be to scan the bulkheads from drawing, have them converted into vector format and then scale them in CAD & finally cut the bulkheads with a CNC mill. But all the programs I have studied need enormous work to clean all the unwanted pixels from the drawing. I wonder if there exist any programs that make this cleaning automatically?
  3. Thickness sander

    I have always wondered which one is more suitable to prepare wood for our hobby, a thickness sander or a Proxxon thicknesser https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27040.php What are the pros and cons for these machines?
  4. If you are looking for an used Myford, you might find a very good one here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/page3.html/
  5. Thanks Moflea, that is a great news. I have thought a lot about Fusion, but understood that you have to pay every month a certain fee for them. But if a retired hobbyist can get free access to the program, seems very attracting.
  6. Thanks hjx. I will check those programs you suggested. I don't have any connections to companies using cnc. I am just a humble retired individual building models as a hobby.
  7. Thanks Christ and Thomas for your kind words!
  8. Very interesting hjx. I have also a 3 axle cnc machine made by German Eas gmbh http://www.easgmbh.de/CNC-Maschinen/Fraesmaschinen/EASY I have used it a lot when building my models, mainly with cars and tanks. The problem is that I only have a 2D CAD, which gives me the possibility to produce 2D and 2.5D parts. I would like to upgrade my programs into 3D to be able to make also the carvings. So the question is: Which CAD program are you using to make those carvings shown in your pictures?
  9. During about two years I have been building a model of French cutter Le Cerf, and finally a few days ago it could be regarded as finished. When searching a new project to build, from the beginning I somehow liked the one mast cutter Le Cerf, issued by French Ancre. So I purchased the documentation package, which included much information about French Navy in general, and especially about the vessel itself. Included were also 12 sheets of plans, which were drawn in the scale of 1/48, which suited me very well, because my previous build was also made at this scale. After having studied the documents and plans for a couple of days, I started the project by making the bulkheads out of plywood. Hull & deck planking were made using strips sawn of abachi wood, which was a positive surprise for me, because it was very easy to work with and to bend the strips and attach them in place. The hulls of French cutters were made in clinker method, and after first difficulties it seemed to me easier to make than "normal" smooth hulls. Gun carriages and othe small details were made of cherry wood, and decorations at the stern were carved of boxwood. Gun barrels are made of brass, together with the blocks and rigging threads they were the only purchased parts. Sails were made of thin Egyptian cotton. It was colored with acrylic paints together with a small amount of white glue diluted in water. I am quite happy with the result. Now again I am in the situation of trying to decide what to build next.
  10. Le Cerf

    Hello Kurt. The biggest is the galley between mast and dinghy. Some drawings include the galley, some don't. I made my model without it. See the attached photo. Then there are some numbering of blocks, eyebolts etc. at the rigging plan, which do not match with the description. But nothing very severe.
  11. Le Cerf

    I am being building Le Cerf from scratch according to Ancre's plans: https://ancre.fr/en/monographies-en/34-monographie-du-cerf-cotre-1778.html in 1/48 scale. The monogram includes also quite comprehensive history about the ship's life, and French navy in general at that era. In my opinion the clinker hull is much easier to build than the carvel one. There are some minor discrebancies in plans, but nothing very serious. I have been building the model about two years now, and finally it gets closer to finalization, being in the rigging and sails production phase.
  12. I Have also had problems with the "like" button. It has changed it's appearance like a greek bowl or amfora. But with my Android tablet, when I press it once, the symbol chances colour to purple. The second press, and the "x" appears, and "like"is notified. Third press will remove your liking.
  13. There has been recently many methods shown to make strops around small blocks. When rigging the guns for my Le Cerf I needed a big number of small 3 mm double blocks. For making strops around these I made this simple fixture, which fullfilled it`s task quite reasonably. First a simple construction was made of a piece of scrap wood and 2 mm plywood. Small pieces of 1 mm and 0,6 mm iron wire were glued into the bottom of the jig, and grooves were sawn with jeweler`s saw into the plywood walls: Pieces of 0,15 mm thread were put into the first grooves, and blocks were positioned to the jig so that the 0,6 mm wire was put through one hole of the block: Then small pieces of 0,6 mm rigging thread were placed into the second grooves: And then it was rotated around the block and then around the 1 mm iron wire: And now it remained only to make a small knot between the block and the 1 mm loop using the thinner thread, and attach small blops of diluted PVA glue into both ends of the block. After the glue had dried, ends of threads were cut as near as possible of the block..... ..... and blocks were ready...... ......and used for rigging the guns:
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