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moha81

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About moha81

  • Birthday 03/11/1981

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bergen, Norway

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  1. Hello guys, Here are some new pictures. Now You can see how the planks fit into the rabbets of the sternpost and the transom. The gun ports are still incomplete. I cannot decide whether I should leave the other side just as it is or not. It would be great to show the structure too, or? Any recommendations?
  2. Thanks a lot, Jan, This definitely helps. What happened is that I totally forgot the location of these in van Yk's book. Moreover, I forgot that these informations were in Yk's book! I have the dimensions and some notes about the rules in the log file on my PC, but I could not remember the source of them. Yes, I translated these part of the book earlier, having the same result, and now I know that it is . Thanks again! Cheers, Gyula
  3. Hello guys, I need help. I've checked my resources and I cannot find informations about the dimensions of the gunports. Only 2 examples are in the book of Yk, on page 61, but I hardly find anything else, just 2-3 sentences on page 65 (Vande Spiegels Poorten), which I absolutely don't understand. It is the 5-6th time I'm trying to figure out this thing, but it's completely hopeless. What are the rules for the dimensions (height, width) of the gunports on different decks? Cheers, Gyula
  4. Hello Johann, Your model is just astonishing. Apparently, one of my favorite ships is the Creole, so I'm definitely going to follow the log. Cheers, Gyula
  5. Hi, I agree. I draw the ship basically from the original contract of the 7P and the book of Cornelis van Yk as a reference. The rules presented there are quite useful and I can check the dimensions in the contract. A note: I always laugh at a quite frequent sentence of the book: the rules are these and those, BUT the implementation depends on the dimensions of the wood we have. Congratulation, so the guys could plan a ship "theoretically", then happened what happened. Freedom rulez! The dutch ships were not standardized at all, there exists several answers for the question, depending on the possibilities. That's why we have the freedom.
  6. Hello, The hungarian ash is a really nice wood for furnitures. It's a hardwood, the texture is various, depending on the cutting direction, but it is not good for carving even in full size, since the cell structure is big and not homogeneous. In case of furnitures the surface has to be sanded, polished and varnished several times. I use this wood because I want to paint the model under the waterline, but I want to use only white lazure (I don't know the english name), which lightens the wood but the texture remains completely visible. Cheers, Gyula
  7. Hello Piet, Thanks a lot and also good to see You again. Besides the crash of the former page other things also happened: we sold our flat in the capital and moved to another town close to Budapest. It was necessary because of the bank loan on the one hand, on the other hand the main reason was the birth of our second child. Now we rent a flat which is still smaller than 50 square meters and we're going to have the 3rd baby in a week! It is a little bit crowded now, but my family completely supports my hobby, and this is more important than anything else, I think. Anyway, I do not have too much time to work on the model, so I don't need the big workshop at the moment. Apparently it seems that I can move to the garage of the house where we rent the flat, and also my combo machines is under construction. The reason why I always write these down is simple: my general experience is that people usually refer to the lack of space as a main reason of not modeling. But it is not true, as You can see. Everything's can be solved. So modeling is far more than having several complex and expensive machines.
  8. Hello János, It is also good to 'see' You again! I'm quite sad about the crash of the former page, especially as the long discussions about the plans, because I did not make a copy of those and some informations are just lost.
  9. Hi all, Some additional pictures. The keel is set. It thickens to the middle from the stem and the stern. Naturally the keel is not horizontal and also it has a really small curvature. That's why it was really tricky to form its 3 individual parts. Below the main deck I don't want to work out anything, so it is going to be a POB. Sorry for the bed, apparently it was the only place in the flat where this monster could take place. Usually it wastes time on the top of the bookshelf. So what I do not have at the moment is: place. I work on the plans at home, on the parts at the workshop of my friend, and I finalize and put the parts together at home again, on the dinner table... I can sand outside the flat on a really small entrance terrace, so on. But works, that's the point Gyula
  10. Yes-yes, this is wood! . Fortunately I have my own resources, the wood comes from my carpenter friend. The wood I use is quite dry, it spent 10-15 years on the loft of the workshop. Ok, I did not want to be wiseguy, I just worry. Wouldn't have it been possible to cut the beams from the dry wood "as they are"? This is what I want to do.
  11. The scale is 1:38, so the transom is 22.5 cm wide . The dark wood is walnut, I'm going to use it basically for planking above the waterline. The light is hungarian ash, it will be used below the waterline. The inner structure and everything else is going to be made from pear, apple, cherry and plum. I like vary the woods and leave them in their original form. Many-many other woods exist besides pear, ebony and boxwood... and they are far more not as good as preferred, I think.
  12. If you ask a carpenter about this method, he would say that it doesn't work . Well, I'm not a carpenter, I'm a physicist, and I know why. I saw many home-made tools such as the one presented here, I also tried them and nowadays I always use to say that they are almost completely inefficient, because the key factor of the process is not present. Yes, we need the steam in order to make the deformation easier. The problem is, in general, that the deformation itself doesn't change the cell structure of the wood, nor does drying out the wood at room temperature for days or weeks. It's just wasting time, since the strain won't relax, the wood tries to recover its original shape, independently from whether you apply a fixation method or not during drying. The problem may appear even YEARS later, if the curvature of the part is not fixed, sooner or later it shall go wrong. The old shipmasters knew this and they made the shaping over open fire! Why? The thing that can reorganize the cell structure at the deformed state is basically HEAT. The key point is to fix deformed shape by removing the strain (and not the water!) from the material. I usually take a pan of (cold) water and an old iron (which is fixed), plunge the wood into the water frequently then shape it on the surface of the hot iron. The ideal temperature of the iron is slightly over 100 C. It is cheap, fast, efficient and safe.
  13. Hello Drazen, I also follow your log, I'm really interested in! Thank for the wishes. Anyway, sorry for not writing so frequently and not answering right on time, but I have bunch of other things to do I'm always searching for the possibility how to steal a little bit of time. I wish all the best for You too.
  14. Yes, yes, there are no rules, just 1-2 examples. I know that it is somewhat artificial, so I tried to use Emke's drawing as a "guide to the eye".

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