Landlocked123

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About Landlocked123

  • Birthday 07/03/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Nutmeg State
  • Interests
    Nautical research, Flyfishing, Flytying, anything to do with the outdoors and moving water.

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  1. Hi All, Below is a link to an (about) 3 hour broadcast of this year's parade of tall ships in Boston Harbor. A lot of the replay covers waiting for the ceremony to start and the ceremony (along with all requisite politicians). The parade starts about 1:40 into the replay. Enjoy. Best, John http://www.wcvb.com/article/sail-boston-relive-the-grand-parade-of-sail/10197101
  2. Hi All, For what it's worth, old floquil paints which haven't been used go for very high prices on eBay. John
  3. Hi Folks, I want to start this with a disclaimer. I AM A NOVICE IN THIS AVOCATION AND HAVE LEARNED EVERYTHING I KNOW (or don't) THROUGH EXPERIMENTATION AND MSW. I've read a lot of posts over the last few years about people having problems with chemical blackening of brass. After a a lot of trial and error I've had a lot of recent success. I've using Birchwood Casey Brass Black, Acetone, and Sparex. I first take any brass I want to blacken and soak in acetone for 5-10 minutes to remove any solder flux, lacquer, or finger prints. I've taken a small piece of window screening and pushed it into a steel can (tomato sauce) to strain the solutions and the pieces being blackened. I make a solution of Sparex (acidic pickling) by putting warm water (125-130 degrees) in a glass container. Add the dry Sparex in an amount greater than recommend. After 15 minutes or so stirring the mixture with a piece of wood, pour off the liquid into a jar with a cover leaving the undisolved Sparex behind. You now have a saturated pickling solution. Taking the pieces to be blackened out of the acetone, place in the warm Sparex solution for about 10-15 minutes. Keeping the Sparex warm makes it work faster, but you can use it cold, just give it more time. You should take the pieces to be blackened out of the Sparex and rinse under cold running water, but I just put into a jar with water and shake vigorously. I then strain into to the can with the screening. I make a solution of Brass Black to water of 1:7.5. I use a paint pipets, but any way is fine. After taking the rinsed pieces out of the water I place them in the diluted Brass Black. I then watch them carefully until mostly black. I then remove, strain, and rinse vigorously then returning them to the blackening solution. I will generaly do it twice more, following the same process rinsing after each immersion. I then place on a paper towel to dry for a couple of days. By following this routine I've gotten deeply blacked pieces without having any of the blackening rubbing off and making a mess of my hands and everything else. Now here comes comes the chemistry question for all my brilliant colleagues out there. I would much rather darken the pieces with one longer immersion in the blackening solution. But when I do that, the blackening flakes and gets everywhere making a mess. I've been thinking about being a small kid in my Grandfather's darkroom. As I've alluded to, I am dolt as far as chemistry is concerned. But in a process in developing film and prints, my Grandad would talk about the "Fix" which, I understood was the chemical which stopped the development process. Given my limited understanding, Brass Black and other blackening processes involve an acidic solution. Therefore, would a immersion in a base, like a baking soda solution, "fix" the reaction and allow for one blackening run as opposed to a number? I'll try some more experiments and let everybody know if I have a "Eureka" moment, but in the interim, would certainly appreciate any corrections, feedback, or other comments. Best, John
  4. I'm no chemist or finishing expert, but I would think if you tried to mix oil based anything with water the only thing you would get is a mess. John ps Or you can go traditional and use pure beeswax dissolved in turpentine. Chop up the beeswax, cover in the turps and let it dissolve over a couple of days. Adjust the the mixture until you get a thick paste. Wipe on a thin coat and then buff off. Repeat as desired. J.
  5. Kurt, I've never laminated layers of veneer to make plywood, but I have often used a great technique to laminate veneer to a substrate. You coat both pieces with Titebond and let it dry completely. Then using a household iron set high, but not high enough to scorch the wood, and iron together. I've used this trick on fine furniture I built as long as 30 years ago and have never had a separation. Best, John
  6. Hey John, Thanks for staying on top of this and letting me and everybody else know. πŸ‘πŸΌπŸ‘πŸΌπŸ‘πŸΌπŸ‘πŸΌπŸ‘πŸΌπŸ‘πŸΌ Best, John
  7. Basswood is too soft and tends to shred as opposed to cut. You don't get clean edges.
  8. Hi Chris, All very nice tools. Are you planing on building full size replicas? Best, John
  9. Thanasis, That is a great technique for painting or staining small parts. Have you ever used the same basic principle lining with sand paper to smooth out corners etc.? Best, John
  10. Hi Vossie, That's a very interesting shape they came up with to show off the the blue putty. πŸ˜ŠπŸ˜ŠπŸ˜ŠπŸ€” Best, John
  11. Hi All, I own those scrapers as well and on any thing harder than Basswood they work great. I found that it's important to have the proper width stock which, since they're metric, I usually have to mill my own. No big deal really since they are primarily for decorative moldings and I don't need too much. Best, John PS I truly understand the pros and cons of why the US is not metric, but I really wish they got this sorted out before I was born. πŸ˜–
  12. Hi, I will be the "lone voice in the wilderness" who believes that the reputation or "likes" statistics should be reinstated. I've carefully read all the opinions in this topic agree with almost all of them. Looking at a "likes" as score by itself is meaningless. However, it is the RATIO of likes to posts where the usefulness lies. A member whose posts are mostly gratuitous and congratulatory will be far less likely to generate a "like" as one with meaningful content. It can serve as hint as to how much value a particular member might add and how much I might want to look at their other posts. If one were to go back (now impossible) and look at the ratio of "likes" to posts, all the obvious major contributors of real content have ratios of 3, 4, 5, times (or more) of likes to posts. The more content the site generates, the more important it is to me to have an indication of where to focus my attention. Best, John
  13. Hi Bruce, I'm a member of Mystic Seaport and have visited New Bedford and the whaling museum a number of times. As a matter of fact my next build is going to be the MS New Bedford Whaleboat with a scratch built section of the Lagoda. Anyway, I've never seen reference to your question, but it seems to me that if you think about the nature of the endeavor, I'd bet those boats were fully outfitted the moment they got anywhere near the whaling grounds. It was incumbent on the crew to be off the davits and on the chase soon as humanly possible. Again, I'm no authority, but this makes sense to me. Best, John
  14. Just wondering. It seems to be a hot topic these days and it would seem to me that a company like Trumpeter with such a great reputation and brand could easily issue kits for the Asian market with their own labeling and appropriate language instructions. And by doing so create a global brand. My firm does business in China and when we wish translate something it only costs a couple of hundred bucks. Plus why would they want to jeopardize their pricing structure. I truly hope it's all on the up and up. Just color me suspicious. Best, John ps. Good on you to check! J.
  15. Hi John, Are you sure Wave isn't just counterfeiting Trumpeter and Merit? best, John