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About Tallshiptragic

  • Birthday 12/01/2014

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    Perth, Western Australia

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  1. Hi admins, just tried posting to my thread yet have been blocked via firewall?!? This is from both my phone and laptop...
  2. I'm quite keen and happy to negotiate a postage price as I live in Australia
  3. Ah my old home for 18 months haha I didn't realize she was heading to dirk hartog island again. She sailed last year for the 400th anniversary of dirk hartogs voyage (I was still on Leeuwin at the time) and we also participated in the celebrations.
  4. Just a few simple wishes from myself, Prince Royal - England 1610 as built, being a large complex vessel similar to the Sovereign. Wood POB around the 1/72 scale is nice to work on and not too large. Would pay up to $1000 (AUD) this would again be more of an advanced ship I'm assuming? Brederode - Netherlands 1644 - Tromps flagship of about 60 guns, Wood POB (would be interesting to see POF but the dutch built their hulls at this time, planks first then set in the frames so very different to a typical POF look and while not impossible, possibly too costly to produce in commercial form) again 1/72 range (1/100 I find too small for details and 1/64 is nice but can be too large for display purposes) price again up to $1500 AUD (advanced) Sophia Amalie, Danish/Norwegian 1650, 108 gun ship of the line, built to surpass the Sovereign of the Seas. Wood POB 1/72 $1500 (advanced) De Zeven Provincien - Netherlands 1665 - 80 gun flagship of De Ruyter, Wood POB, 1/72 up to $2000 AUD (advanced) Preussen, Germany 1902 - steel five masted ship rigged windjammer. Wood or plastic/fibreglass hull POB 1/72 or 1/100 between $1500-2000 if at larger scale (advanced) With the improvements in 3D printing, apart form the higher costs, it could be possible to see decorations made in this fashion - like the plastic decorations from billings etc showing more crisp detail. I use 3D printing in a lot of my modern builds mixed with PE parts especially on modern RC warships with great results (these of course being scratch built I can spend as much or as little as I feel though not sure how it would go in a commercial kit)
  5. I'd say caldercraft HMS cruiser or even the bomb vessel Granado. Both attractive but still medium sized vessels. Cruisers hull is pretty similar in the simple curves to that of the Virginia.
  6. The duyfken and other dutch ships of the early 17th century weren't using bells.
  7. On the attached photo if you look at both booms of the main and mizzen, you will see a block and tackle on each under the boom itself. This is the preventer in its stowed position, which may help to describe the original sketch. The fixed part of the preventer is a little more than 2/3 aft of the length of the boom, the forward part attaches to an eye on deck just aft of the last shroud for when we're sailing full and by. When sailing with the wind and the booms are needed to be pulled out, this same preventer is attached to a single line which is fixed forward of the shrouds of that mast.
  8. Sorry but, never experienced anything to do with a flying topsail. Flying jobs and stay sails yes, but not a square. The cutter would have rat lines up to the futtocks. Looking at the scale, you could furl the topsail from the futtocks without the need for foot ropes on the yard. On duyfken - similar to halve maen if your in the states - we had to fuel the topsails from the futtocks.
  9. It's a preventer. I've attached a photo of my ship with the preventer rigged. We rig it in winds over 10knots when at sea. The tackle from the boom to the deck is the preventer. Working as crew and a deck officer on various tall ships, Europa, Leeuwin, Gothenburg,topsail schooners Spirit of Bermuda, columbria etc there is always a preventer stay rigged or attached made up of double block tackles and never a single line. The preventer is also used when tacking a tall ship to spank the mizzen gaff boom across. The only ships I've sailed without these are Duyfken and endeavour as they don't have a boom.
  10. The standing part of the line should attach to the rope strop around the block - or a 'becket with thimble' if you're looking at modern blocks. Also the only part of a 'tackle' that's made fast to an eyelet on deck would be the standing part of the tackle line. The running part (what you pull on) would usually be belayed to a cleat or pin.
  11. Does this make it easier for you? The block seized to the davit could be either single or double - usually double.
  12. I used thick mahogany strips for my capping rails. It'll bend to a point very well after soaking in warm water and use of an iron. Though do this is steps until you get the desired bend. Otherwise it will break.
  13. Hi Grant, two options for you. First pic shows the sheet mounted to an eye bolt on the bulwark then the bitter end comes to a cleat on the capping rail. This is how the course sheet on Leeuwin works. Next pic shows a sheave in the bulwark. The bitter end would pass through the sheave and lead forward to a cleat so being so close to the ladder shouldn't be a problem. It its still too close for comfort. Move the sheave forward. This is the arrangement on the Barque Europa. If a sheave fitted I've shown the makeup of a sheave, definitely not just a hole. Also with the different rig choices from Leeuwin and Europa, both ships are the same size and the fire course on both ships are the same sail area. And both rigged to typical mid 19th century rigs.
  14. Hi grant, might be easier if you could show part of the plan. To give an idea of the arrangement. Seems very strange for the forcourse but could be right. As for size diameter of rope, we have used 28mm line onboard both Leeuwin and endeavour replica.
  15. The sheets for the forecourse would go to a block on the fore peak directly and not through the bulwark. The main course would also go through a block on deck rather than a fairlead through the bulwark. The forecourse would also taper inwards from the yard on this era vessel.