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Jason Builder

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    www.argobuilder.com

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    Wisconsin USA

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  1. Hi Murray and Keith, thanks for your nice comments! Murray, if you captained one of these, hats of to ye! I've always been impressed by the consistency and skill of the captains of these little motor launches at Disney. Peace! Jason
  2. Hello Fellow Ship Modelers! I have completed the Oseberg model. This was a very fun project and I am enjoying looking at it in the location that I had in mind for it when I started building it. Some final photos below. Peace!! Jason
  3. Hi Everyone! Working on the stand for the model tonight. I will make it out of Aspen, which is a bright white clear grained nordic softwood. I will be adding some celtic carving to the stand base for fun. I used a profiling gauge to draw out the angle of the bracket stands.
  4. Hi All! The rigging on this ship is quite limited and simple, making for a one-afternoon project to complete it. I used some smaller scale rope I had in stock for some lines, but mostly used the cotton rope supplied in the kit. I started rigging the ship using the very white rope in the kit but it was too bright white in my opinion so I took the whole spool of rope and dunked it in the can of stain and the pulled the rope out of the bucket through a rag to press the stain out and this resulted in a nice color rope for the ship. The holes in the standing rigging fittings needed to be enlarged in diameter, which I accomplished with a small round file. Here is the rope after staining it:
  5. Ég er næstum búinn að klára þennan bát I carved the rigging cleats for the standing rigging out of basswood. Also , I am at the point where I stained the boat! Fun step. I am going with Minwax Golden Oak stain. After staining the parts I installed the rudder, I got a longer wire nail than what was included in the kit for this purpose. All worked out nicely.
  6. Hi Everyone, Made the sail tonight. sketched out the size and the vertical seams in pencil on the fabric from the kit cut out the out line with a sharp scissors ironed the fabric, including ironing the folded over hems around the edges, to make the sewing of those edges so much easier stitched the perimeter hems and the vertical lines on the sewing machine in a zi-zag pattern Ironed the whole thing again In overall finish, I will going for a lighter stained/caramel colored woodwork and an all-white sail.
  7. Final wooden pieces to be attached to the ship....some trim pieces at the stem and stern. Note which edges of these pieces stand proud of adjacent woodwork and which are flush.
  8. Good Day All! Some work on cleats and oar racks. Rough sanding and shaping done, some finish sanding still to go (finish sanding on the whole model for that matter). Chasing down completion on a daily basis now.
  9. Aloha e ka poe hana waapa, Tonight some work in the armory....shield building. First a note on an interference problem. I used what I thought was the right wood stock from the kit to make the little blocks above that create the spacing for the shield rail. Then I tapered down the ends of the shield rail and glued it in place. I then went to go install my happy little shields only to find that the shields were too thick to fit into the space. Uf-da. I wasn't about to rip off the rail so I sanded the shields down slightly and they now fit. Downside was that in the process of sanding, the little nail holes etched/laser-scribed into the shield faces became actual holes. I will fill these with a nice darker color wood filler and will wind up OK. Just be careful to check the thickness of the blocking material vs the shield thickness. 3/8" diameter furniture upholstery tack used for center of shield; I picked a bronze type color, but I think the vikings used iron for these parts; I wanted the bronze color to look better with the stain I will apply so permit me this inaccuracy of metals......the bronze age ended at least 1000years BC and this ship is from 800AD. But then again the Vikings painted their shields so I am going with that the Vikings on this ship painted the shield centers this color. Now I have some cleanup and sanding to do on the shield rail and the shields.
  10. G'day Mates! I can smell blood in the water on this project, the end is near and I am working now every day after months of working once a month. Latest progress includes drilling holes for oars (pilot hole followed by final hole diameter using a drill) and installing the blocks for the shield rail. I made those using a hand-snipper.
  11. Hello Model Ship Builders! Couple projects tonight. 1. Finish attached bow and stern fancy carved trim pieces. 2. cut off the un-needed raised section of planking on the port side in the steering gear area. In order to have flush installation of these nicely burned trim pieces at the bow and stern, I found that the trim piece and the underlying plank should both be carved and tapered down. And here is that piece being glued on:' Next, the uppermost planks from the kit, on the starboard and port sides, both have a raised section near the stern that is designed to accommodate the steering gear for the rudder. These extra parts are only needed on the starboard side. I cut away this raised section from the port side, as seen in the photos below.
  12. Thanks for the encouragement , Steven. I see you’re in Ballarat, I seem to remember visiting a quarry there once on one of my trips to Aus. Also bought an MSM steam engine kit which I believe used to be made in Melbourne. Nice part of the world you are in! jason
  13. The nice laser burned stem and stern are a nice feature of the kit, thanks Billing Boats! The bow and stern planks are the same in the kit, but for the two stern pieces, the dragon head in the part must be turned into a tail via your carving work! Below I show some photos of the actual ship. The dragon head is of-course at the prow and the tail at the stern. Here are my parts and installation:
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