• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About rafine

  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Delray Beach, Florida

Recent Profile Visitors

923 profile views
  1. Your updates are always worth waiting for Rusty. Beautiful, clean work. Bob
  2. Thanks so much Thomas, Nils and the "likes". So far, I'm pleased. The fun of a POF build without some of the drudge work. Bob
  3. That's a "Wow" Denis. Looking great. Bob
  4. The paint looks really good Denis, as does the decal stripe. Bob
  5. Thanks so much Rusty. Greatly appreciated. Bob
  6. Thanks so much Don, Denis, John, Carl, Michael and the "likes". Don, I have to admit that it was less a matter of pre-planning than some trial and error on the first couple of frames that led to the seemingly organized sequence. Carl, the keel will be glued in place after the full frames are completed. This is how Hahn shows it in his book. Michael, since the keel is used to insure proper positioning after every couple of frames, the effect is the same, but without having to maneuver the frames between the jig and keel to get them mounted. BTW, judging from your results on Halifax, you wouldn't have had any problem, however you went about it. Bob
  7. While I understand the reasons given for leaving masts unglued, my personal preference is to glue them in place. I would rather have the stability of a permanently mounted mast. Proper tensioning of rigging is difficult enough without having to worry about the mast moving about. Bob
  8. Time to get started on the frames. I've settled on the following procedure for doing them: 1) Remove the 9 parts for a frame from the laser sheet 2) Remove the laser char from the joints between futtocks 3) Using double sided clear tape, attach one layer of parts to the plan sheet for that frame, with the joints glued 4) Glue the second layer of futtocks on top of the first 5) Sand the faces of the frame until there is a fit to both the keel and the jig 6) Fill any joints, as necessary, with filler made of sanding sawdust and glue 7) Use strip wood to make any adjustment necessary to the keel notch on the frame 8) do some preliminary fairing to both the outside and inside edges of the frame 9) Treenail the futtock joints using the "drill and fill" method 10) Apply Wipe-on poly to the faces of the frame 11) Glue the frame into the appropriate jig notch using clamps to hold it in place and a straight edge to keep it square 12) Use the keel to insure proper fit and spacing after each pair is set at opposite ends I've completed two pairs of frames now and so far, so good. The good news has been that using the laser cut pieces is a whole lot easier than cutting them all out by hand. The parts also fit the drawings fairly well. The not so good news is the amount of work necessary to get a snug fit to the keel. Also, as I feared, the frame drawings and parts don't match up to the jig exactly, causing some need for further tweaks. All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with how it's going to this point. Bob
  9. As usual Dirk, despite all of your misgivings the result is wonderful. I have no doubt that the starboard will turn out as well or even better. Bob
  10. Glad to have you on board Thomas and Jason. Thanks for your interest. Bob
  11. She's looking great Don. Bob
  12. The other side of the coin is that having done it early on, I didn't get the benefit of that correction. Now, looking at mine, I'm thinking that the yards look too long. Bob
  13. Thanks so much Denis and Captain Poison. Bob