Roger Pellett

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About Roger Pellett

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duluth, MN
  • Interests
    Naval Architect, Scratch Modeler and maritime history researcher. Current modeling interest- Navy ship's boats.
    Nautical ResearchvGuild Member

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  1. Les, This is a nicely made piece of equipment. Mine works fine. The locking mechanism is intended to fit the 1/2 in wide miter slot of US made table saws and bandsaws. Roger
  2. I did a little more internet research on glues. Apparently the family of glues known as Urea Formaldehydes are preferred for laminated structures such as plywood. These were used way back in WWII to build the famous RAF Mosquito bombers. These were built with balsa cores and birch veneer laminated inside and outside to produce a very stiff structure. The same principal as a foam or balsa cored fiberglass boat. These glues which are readily available and cheap will stand up to the high clamping forces required. Roger
  3. Back in the good old days, plywood was made with "resorcinol glues." These were synthetic plastic resin glues. The glues came in two parts, a resin and a powder that were mixed together. My father and I used a lot of the stuff in 1960 in the construction of a sailboat. It was easy to use, worked every time ind did not involve water. According to the internet resorcinol glues are still available. DAP apparently makes one but it is sold as a powder to be mixed with water. Titebond III is apparently another and is sold premixed (with water?). The two part resorcinol glues like I used appear to be available but I didn't see any small quantities. In the boatbuilding world resorcinol glues have supposedly been superseded by epoxies. I have personally had excellent experience using WEST SYSTEM epoxies and these would work well for your purpose. In recent years these have been produced in small disposable units so you might research this option. Roger
  4. I assume that you are looking for drawings by Nathanel not L. Francis. It is my understanding that Nathanel did not make lines drawings, electing instead to loft his designs from offsets taken from half models by a special device made for him by Brown & Sharpe. You would therefore have to create lines drawings from information contained on construction drawings or preferably from mold loft offsets if you can find them. Roger
  5. I have a Rockler thin rip jig that I use with my 10in table saw. It works great as by using it you don't have to pinch the wood between the fence and the saw. There is also a U tube video of a guy using one of these to rip paper thin strips with a bandsaw. Roger
  6. Japan dryer is a chemical additive used to accelerate the drying of paint. I have no idea how it works but its been around for a long time. It is a key ingredient in the linseed oil based filler that canoe restorers mix up to fill the weave in the canvas covering of wood canvas canoes. An ounce mixed into a gallon of the linseed oil mix causes the fill to dry to a hard sandable surface. It is readily available in pints at paint and home improvement stores. I don't know how it would react with Frankie's pine tar, but a drop or two added to the tar turpentine mix might improve its drying characteristics. Roger
  7. Your skill with that angle grinder is impressive! Roger
  8. I read this book years ago and donated my copy to a book sale. After being inspired by this thread, I bought a new copy to read again. The movie is worthwhile too- good sailing shots and an interesting Edwardian era German gunboat. Congratulations, Frankie on a fine model. Roger
  9. Chapelle discusses this topic briefly in the Search For Speed Under Sail. He believes that these small schooners were built by erecting widely spaced doubled frames and then adding filler frames where floors and futtocks were not necessarily joined together. While this does not help modellers trying to build accurately framed models it does make sense. Framing a vessel with British style closely spaced preassembled frames requires the ability to loft requiring skilled people, a large flat surface, and some way to communicate the required information such as a table of offsets. To date, I have seen no credible research describing actual building practices for small vessels in the Revolutionary- 1812 US. Until we learn more about the technology available to build them, I don't believe that we can accurately model hull structure. Several vessels have been found and excavated on Lake Ontario. These were built by New York area shipbuilders but they were built as warships, and shortcuts were taken to speed up construction neverless, you might look into this. This research is summarized in the recently published book Coffins of the Brave. Roger
  10. Many years ago the NRG published plans for a home made thickness sander and I built my own. I had to buy a pair of roller bearing pillow blocks and a piece of cold rolled bar stock. Every thing else came from the scrap box, total cost less than $35. The guts of the machine is of course the roller that holds the sandpaper and this was turned by setting the maple block attached into its axle into the pillow blocks as an instiu lathe. The resulting machine works fine. Very thin materials can be sanded by laying the strip on a piece of MDF and tack gluing one end. After sanding the glue can either be debonded with alcohol or the strip can be cut short of the glue. like all of his tools, I'm sure that Jim's sander is a wonderful tool, but if your funds are limited, this is one machine that you can build yourself. Roger
  11. I own three table saws, a Preac, Byrnes, and a 10in Delta. I use all three. I use the 10in for heavy duty ripping from billets that I harvested myself. The Byrnes is used,to rip, material 1/4 in and thinner, and the Preac is especially useful for cutting small grooves for applications like making blocks. Roger
  12. A benefit of Joe's approach is that the piece being cut off is not pinched between the blade and the fence. When cutting very thin strips using saw blades with no "set" to the teeth it is easy to burn the strip. As I said above Rockler makes a jig that fits on a full sized saw that works the same way as Joe's jig. Guys building wood strip canoes use them for ripping the long thin strips required. Moving the fence is a minor inconvenience compared to removing burn residue from wood strip and blade. I have tried the same approach, moving the fence over each time with the micrometer feed but Joes idea is much easier and more accurate. Roger
  13. I have no idea who this guy is, have never dealt with him and certainly don't want to, but would like to make a suggestion. Ours is a very difficult craft. I have been trying to master it for sixty years with limited success. Despite people offering praticums, no one has a solution that works for everyone. For me at least, I prefer to collect ideas from a number of sources and to adapt them to my skills and work habits. In my opinion the best collection of this material is a collection of Nautical Research Journals particularly those published in the 80's and 90's that have a lot of practical content, and particularly multi issue articles for building complete models that don't seem to be published anymore. So, save money and buy the CDs of back issues of Nautical Research Journals. You'll be amazed how much really useful material you will find. Roger
  14. Joe, That model was built by a guy named Dean Richmond c1980. He wrote an article about building it in the Nautical Research Journal that I am sure that you can download from the website. As I recall, he laid up fiberglass over a wooden plug then glued apple veneer to the inside. It took several tries each with a new glass layup before he got one that he was happy with. The old wooden Thistles did have a problem with dry rot between the layers of the mounded ply hulls. Per D&M recommendations we treated ours with a fungicide but even so, the guy that I sold it to said that he found some punky areas near the transom, easily fixed. Roger
  15. Nice simple jig! For me, the Byrnes Saw with a very coarse blade like you show is a frightening tool. Often, rather than cutting the stock, the blade grabs it and catapaults it back at high velocity. Using my full sized table saw with a Rockler Thin Rip jig works better for me. The Byrnes Saw with a very sharp fine tooth blade works fine. The Rockler Jig is a larger, refined version of your jig. Great minds think alike! From your "handle" I assume that you are a Thistle sailer. Wonderful boat! About 1960 my father and I built #1326 or maybe 1327, a woodie from a Douglass and McLeoud kit. I sold it 10 years later in Washington D.C. Roger