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About xander

  • Birthday 05/11/1951

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  1. Have now made the next deck and have placed it loosely on top of the second deck.Have to make the cabin now before fixing the deck in place. After my eye ops can now see distance clearly but close work is a problem and especially so for this hobby. Still thinking about the lighting and should do something at this stage as it will be more difficult after the decks are glued in position. Although led lights are probably the best solution I might opt out and choose small individual battery operated lights. Anyway 2 photos enclosed of recent progress Xander
  2. Thanks Brian for your advice. I think that wearing protective goggles would be good advice for everybody. I think that the kit definitely needs some form of lighting as it is very difficult to see everything that is going on without it. One thought I had was to use the little dolls house lights which are battery operated and just stick them onto the wall or the roof of the deck. Your idea however is certainly giving me food for thought and I agree fitting the lights before fixing all the decks permanently makes things a lot easier. Looking forward to seeing what sort of lighting you use and how you actually fix them into place. Regards Xander
  3. Sorry to taken so long to reply but I’ve had two eye operations recently and have not been able to carry on with my Mississippi. In response to Bryans query I just prefer the Occre kit as I prefer the instructions and the plans. The kit has a lot of metal chairs, tables etc which all have to be painted and assembled and the cabins are wallpapered. This is the main difference and though it is is a lot of extra work I like the look of this model better. I hope now that I am getting better I will be able to resume the build and then I can post some more pictures. Xander
  4. And so after quite a bit of time the second deck has now been finished. The two photographs show the deck without the removable sides and the deck where the sides have been placed in situ. The work that has been completed has been very fiddly. Lots of small parts have had to be fitted together, primed, painted and assembled on the deck. Haven’t been able to spend a great deal of time on this build but will post again in the future when more progress has been made.
  5. A bit more progress made. The second deck has now been lined, strips placed around the edge and just placed loosely in position. The underside now has to be painted white and then the deck furniture made. Only when all this has been completed can the deck be glued into position.
  6. At long last the first deck is now finished. All the tables and chairs have to be assembled, then primed, painted and then fixed on to the deck. Very fiddly and time consuming. The actual walls are removable so one can see all the furniture. However when the second deck is placed on the top of the first I think it will be very dark inside. Therefore it is possible that at a later date to place some lighting on the walls or ceiling. But that will be at the end of the build. And so now work building the second deck will start. Enclosing 2 photographs of the first deck with and without the removable walls. Regsrds Xander
  7. So as said in my last post I am enclosing photos of my build so far, The first deck is finished and am starting the furniture for this deck. The first photo shows the removable sections which allows one to see inside, This will include the casino and the theatre. You are also able to see the inside walls which have been wallpapered as supplied in the kit. All the metal tables and chairs which have yet to be built are also included. The chairs come in two pieces which have to be glued, primed and painted before fixing to the deck. This is very fiddly and a lot of time will be spent on them. The middle photo shows the roulette tables which have been primed but not yet painted.
  8. Hi The build has already been started before I decided to take the plunge and do a build log. The first photo shows a sample of the written instructions and plans, the second the colour instruction steps and the paper decorations and the third some of the metal and wooden accessories. Will take some more photos of the build so far and post these later. Regards Xander
  9. Many years ago my first build was the AL Mississippi which was a fun build. i have now started to build the Occre version which has several major differences. I will take some photos of progress so far and post them. The photo enclosed shows my attempt at the AL version.
  10. I have just read genericDave's post. No, I didn't skip over it but actually read it through twice! What an excellent post. I agree with everything said. I too am a relative newcomer and without sites like this would have abandoned the hobby a long time ago. However I think it would be in the manufacturers own best long term interest to provide instructions which are clear and detailed especially on models which they classify as entry level. And as for rigging instructions to me they are incomprehensible. What Dave has written is surely commen sense. Let's hope some manufacturers read it and take note.
  11. I have built two or three model boats, probably with lots of mistakes, and I certainly consider myself a beginner. I have completed these models only by reading members builds on this site and trying to learn from them. However I firmly believe that if a model is classified as suitable for a beginner then the instructions and plans should reflect this. In my limited experience this is definitely not the case. Instructions are very sparse and the plans very complicated. If manufacturers say a model is for beginners then instructions and plans should be written with the beginner in mind. If that was the case then maybe more models would be completed and more people would carry on with this hobby.
  12. For myself the best kit manufacturer would have clear step by step instructions, combined with photographs of each stage of the build and have a reputation for good customer service. If this exists, can someone recommend such a model?
  13. xander

    Advice on next build

    Mark Thanks for that reply. I was given a old kit and probably stamp cut. The sheet of wood was 5mm thick and the parts were curved railings. But the depth of the cut was only a fraction of a mm hence I wasn't able to cut it out with a knife and ended up breaking it. I presume most newer kits won't have this problem.

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