GrantGoodale

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About GrantGoodale

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  1. If you are in North America, you can go to Michael's to get brass eye bolts. I forget what they call then but you can find them in the beading section.
  2. Those old kits are starting to resurface these days. I am currently working on a resurrection of the Billings Danmark (3 of them!) Best of luck
  3. That is some serious equipment. Very well done.
  4. A full build log can be found at: http://www.modelshipwrights.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=242693&ord=&page=1 HTH
  5. Very nice work. I like the look of the decks. For more info, go to http://combinedfleet.com/ HTH
  6. For those who want to do this version in 1/350 - good luck. To the best of my knowledge, the 1/350 is the 1941/42 version. As for the wood colour - they used hinoki cypress and not teak. FWIW
  7. Great work - thanks for sharing. I am working on the 1915 version with the Trumpeter photo-etch. I think that I might chicken out with those torpedo nets
  8. Many thanks for the info.
  9. I am working on the Panart Royal Caroline. They include a brass sheet with various bright work: I am used to working with photoetch but this one has me stumped. The green area is raised. It seems to be a paint coating rather than a peel-off layer. How does one work with this? I was given another partial Caroline kit and it has thin laser cut wood: How do I go about dealing with this? (Sorry for the crappy photo) Any ideas will be very much appreciated.
  10. Les - I have 3 airbrushes: one single action Paasche and two double actions (Paasche and Iwata). The problem that I have found with airbrushing large objects like this is that they don't fit my spray booth. Even with airbrushing, you can never completely get around using a hairy stick. Plus brushes are easier to clean. Mike - I wiped the hull down with alcohol and then did a light sanding. I then "primed" the whole hull with Future. I used Krylon white out of the rattle can. That stuff can be used for outdoor applications and has a good reputation for not yellowing. All - Billing kits are very nice but the instructions are somewhat spartan. There also seems to be a shortage of build logs out there for this kit. I used Google images to get pictures but they mostly are of models. I am gradually getting more information about such details as rat lines or rat boards. Thanks everyone for the information. I know that I will be back with more questions.
  11. I am always interested in those who paint the upper hull colour followed by the lower (or vice versa) and then mask and paint the boot topping. Wherever I try that, the result looks all wobbly. Now, I paint the hull black and mask off the boot topping with thin tape. You can get that tape in any place that caters to r/c cars - they use it for striping. HTH
  12. Nice build. If you want an interesting look at Chinese ship construction and the amazing things that they did with their junk, read "1421 - The Year China Discovered the World" by Gavin Menzies. (https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_4?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=1421+the+year+china+discovered+the+world&sprefix=1421%2Caps%2C177) I was a bit skeptical at first but this is not nutcase stuff. Enjoy.
  13. Never underestimate the power of wood filler and sanding
  14. I have been given a partially built model of the Danmark (from the Billing kit). The hull has been painted, bowspirit and deck items added. The white hull has seriously yellowed. I think that I have read that the Krylon spray paint would be a good white to use. However, should I put down some barrier coat (e.g. clear acrylic) before repainting the white? Would the Kyrlon be a good paint to use to prevent future yellowing? TIA - Grant