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Erik W

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Everything posted by Erik W

  1. With the onset of nice weather, I temporarily have put working on my Cheerful build on hold. Lots to do outdoors! One of the last photos I shot of the Cheerful a couple of months ago, for the purpose of being emailed to my non-modeling friends and family, included a pencil in the photo. The reaction was kind of funny to me. Everyone was surprised at how small this 1/48 scale project was. In thinking about it I realize I didn't have any photos like that of the 1/350 scale USN destroyer I built a few years ago. I broke out the camera just now, dug around the junk drawer for a lighter and took these. Thought you folks would get a kick out of them. By the way, the most difficult thing on the 1/350 scale build was the rigging, particularly the signal halyards, which are .002" diameter Japanese fly tying line. First that Cheerful photo. The 1/350 scale USS Nields. . . . and the only in-progress shot from this build showing 2 aftermarket 20mm Oerlikon AA guns. Each one is 7 pieces! If you're interested in more on this Nields build, and why it's personal to me, here's more info: http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/dd/dd-616/350-ew/ew-index.html Erik
  2. How long do you folks work on your builds during a typical work session? With years of experience in a lot of different types of modeling under my belt, I’ve found that the more detailed and precise what I’m doing is, there comes a point of diminishing returns as far as time spent. Meaning, I’m more likely to make mistakes, or have less-than-ideal results if I try to power through something when I’m getting slightly fatigued. I think, typically then, I seem to work in 1 to 2 hour sessions. On the weekends, time permitting, I’ll walk away and come back a few times throughout the day/evening. How about you? Are you a marathon modeler, or a nibbler . . . or something in between? Erik
  3. I've gotten more planking done on my Cheerful. The starboard side is complete, now it's on to the last half of the port side. Erik
  4. How much are you willing to pay

    I had to do some of that mental math between my first build and my current build. My first build was the Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat at $40, with some new hand tools, and some of Chuck's rope, say around $100 total . . . for a 6 month project. My current build is Chuck's Cheerful built with boxwood. Most of the cost was up front, with follow-on purchases as I've needed more supplies, or hand tools. I think my total cost will be around $800. I was a bit put off by this price tag, by far the most I've ever spent on a single model, but I did the math for the cost per day over an estimated 3 years (knowing my slow speed) of working on it, and it comes to $.73 a day. Very reasonable in the long run. At times, I've gone months without spending money on the Cheerful project. Of course, a new parallel hobby seems to be collecting sailing ship books . . . I, er, won't talk about the cost of those 35 books. Also, I made the decision to choose a second build that wouldn't require power tools. If I get to the end of the Cheerful, and am confident I've found another life long hobby, I may dive into the expense of power tools. Erik
  5. What was the point of a double wale vs. a single wale? And how common were these? Photo location, National Maritime Museum, Greenwich: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66415.html Thanks, Erik
  6. Pete, The only other thing the book says about the wales on the Rogers Collection model of the Royal William is the sentences following what I had quoted above, "This produced a solid-looking main wale that became the norm for the remainder of the century. The Royal William's main wale is solid, except that here it is made of two, not three, broad strakes, both painted black and lacquered. The upper wales, too, are solid, though unpainted, but the channel wales are of the old, double wale construction." Erik
  7. I just received this exquisite book today. It's filled with great color photos, and is chocked full of tons of interesting information. I'd highly recommend it to anyone interested in the history of these ships and models. Erik
  8. Today I received Seawatch Books The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models by Grant H. Walker. I stumbled upon this in the section about the 100 gun Royal William regarding double wales, " . . . a Navy Board order issued on 14 October 1715 directed that this traditional practice was to cease, and that henceforth the main wale would be made up of three strakes, all of the same thickness." Erik
  9. Mark, Good point. I hadn't thought that though pricey, the frieze paintings would themselves have been a cost saving and time saving during construction, compared with the carved work that was falling out of favor. I'd like to think that the real ships carried this elaborate frieze work. Sure would've been an impressive sight to behold! Chuck, It makes sense if the frame futtocks were secured directly to the wale, that you would have multiple wales. Thanks guys, Erik
  10. Herring, Mark, Thanks for the info! That answers my question in as much detail as possible. Mark, I've often wondered how accurate these models are compared to how the ships were actually built, particularly in regards to things like the elaborate painted decorations. I guess to some extent we'll never be 100% sure, since, though a lot of the models survived, the ships themselves did not. Thanks again, Erik
  11. How Realistic Can One Make Sails?

    Julie, Both of these books address scale sail making. Both authors are committed to using techniques that make sails look realistic and correctly scaled. https://www.seawatchbooks.com/ItemDisplay.php?sku=115003This supplement is part of this revised masting and rigging book: https://www.seawatchbooks.com/ItemDisplay.php?sku=115002 https://www.seawatchbooks.com/ItemDisplay.php?sku=107002 Erik
  12. Druxey, I think that title might be sold out at Seawatch Books. I've looked for it before, and can't locate it on their website. Erik
  13. What have you received today?

    Jeff, The Camarata book is pretty good. It's currently on sale, so worth the price. There is definitely some good info and tips in it. I'm not sure I would have paid full price for it, but I'm happy with the book. Erik
  14. What have you received today?

    Now that I'm in ship mode again, I purchased some books. Erik
  15. Fokker DR 1 Building log

    Cool! I love the Fokker Dr.1. That kit looks like a challenge. I like the complex look of WWI aircraft without fabric. After seeing these unique markings, I had built this 1/48 scale Dr.1 years ago. Erik
  16. Your models at home

    Here's the display of my various models. I typically build in small scales so as to minimize the space needed for displaying the finished models . . . at least that was the case until I started the 1/48 scale Cheerful! Erik
  17. I was perusing photos on the National Maritime Museum's website http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections.html?_ga=1.112341570.71357554.1441159073#!csearch;searchTerm=*;authority=subject-90352;collection=subject-90352 and I came across this photo of a British 50 gun ship, circa 1710. What are the two ladder looking things coming down off the stern? Some kind of rope ladders maybe? Photo source: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66357.html Thanks, Erik
  18. What are these?

    Thanks for the input guys. Jud, that's a great photo! Erik
  19. Tightening rigging

    Chuck, Just to be clear with your first post above, you do not permanently glue any of the lines where they attach to the ship, including the standing rigging? So for example, on your Cheerful build, once the tension is where you want it with the shrouds, you will not secure the lanyards running through the dead-eyes with glue? I like the idea of not using glue to secure the belaying points. It's easier to correct the line tension, and you can better minimize the discoloring of the scale rope that seems to be an inevitable result of gluing. Thanks, Erik
  20. Work surface

    Chris, I do all of my modeling on a nice desk I don't want damaged. I use a piece of cardboard cut from a large box and have a smaller piece of cardboard taped on top. I have a medium size cutting matt above the cardboard. Off to the left side of the large piece of cardboard, I have a box lid to hold my supplies. I can set up/remove all this from the desk in under a minute. Erik
  21. I recently returned from several weeks in Iceland and Norway. With wooden boats on my mind, I took photos of the Gokstad, Oseberg ships, built in the 800s, at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo, Norway.
  22. I think the price is dictated by demand. I imagine the printing runs of these were fairly limited. I paid $45 for my copy a year ago. I see you can pick up a copy for $40 now. Not too pricey in my opinion for what you get. Erik
  23. March 23rd in Colorado, USA. A day after it was dry, sunny and 72 degrees (23 Celsius), we're having a blizzard. I got the day off work paid. When not shoveling (we're expecting 6 to 8 inches more) . . . I'll be working on the Cheerful. Erik
  24. I just received a couple of books on ship modeling in the small scale of 1/192. Philip Reed is an outstanding modeler. It's absolutely amazing the amount of detail he can ft into such small models. I've always gravitated towards smaller scales in whatever hobby I'm involved in, 1/160 scale trains, rather than the more popular 1/87 scale. 1/144 scale aircraft, rather than 1/72 scale. 1/72 scale armor, rather than 1/35 scale. In kicking around the idea of future wooden ship builds I can see myself building in 1/72 scale, or 1/96 scale, partly because the finished model will take up less space, but also because I like building tiny things. This makes me think of scale in general. What are your thoughts on scale? Do you build your ships to the same scale for consistencies sake? Do you move freely between scales, to generally keep the ship to the same physical size? Do you like building in a larger scale? Smaller? Feel free to post photos of your small . . . or large projects. Here's some of my small builds. 1/350 scale WWII destroyer. Heavily kit bashed/super detailed. 800 parts in a 11" x .75" model. Flag halyards are .002" monofilament thread! 1/144 scale f-14B Tomcat. Heavily modified/super detailed. 1/160 scale Nn3 kitbashed/super detailed narrow gauge boxcar. .006" phosphor bronze free standing grab irons. Erik
  25. What have you received today?

    These books arrived recently. I managed to pick up a mint copy of Historic Ship Models for $4.98 on Amazon. I found the 120/240 grit flexible nail files I had bought a while back so useful, that I decided to get a bulk pack of 320/400 grit 7" flexible nail files. They're basically inexpensive sanding sticks. 25 for $18. They may look a bit girly color-wise, but they work. Erik
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