Erik W

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Everything posted by Erik W

  1. I recently received the book Herreshoff American Masterpieces. Reviewed here: https://www.woodenboatscalendar.com/review.html This is truly one of the best coffee table books, on any subject, I've seen. If you like recreational sailboats, it's a must have. It's a huge 11 1/2" x 14". The photography is amazing. The Herreshoff plans are part of the Hart Nautical Collection at the MIT Museum. Does anyone know if these are available to the general public? It's an intriguing thought to build a scale model of one of the sailboats featured in this book. Erik
  2. Hi Allan, I tried to PM you, but was given the error message, "allanyed is unable to receive messages". Thanks for the offer of sending me Kurt Hasselbalch's contact info. The Herreshoff book, which was just published late last year, lists him as curator of the MIT Museum. So, yes, please PM me his email address. The sailboat in the book that really caught my eye is the NY50 Spartan. Though, they're all quite beautiful. Thanks! Erik
  3. Thanks Mark. I just shot Pete a PM. His Herreshoff builds in the gallery look great! Erik
  4. Mike, Thanks. In looking at my plans, and then looking at your yards in the photo, I understand what you did with the diameter of the yards when shortening them. One of the good things about starting my build after you guys is that you figure out some of this stuff before I get to that point in the build. Also, that shorter main yard is a good thing. I've been wondering just how wide the shelf will have to be that I display my Cheerful on! Erik
  5. Looks good Mike. How much did you shorten the yards? Were they mistakenly drawn too long on the plans? Thanks, Erik
  6. I roughly sanded the 5 rows of strakes I've been working on. Working my way up from the keel. Only 5 more rows to go! Erik
  7. Welcome to my Cheerful build! Little did I know when I bought a Model Shipways longboat kit last summer that I’d get bitten by the ship building bug so seriously. I finished my longboat a couple of weeks ago (see here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10743-18th-century-longboat-by-erik-w-–-model-shipways-–-scale-148-first-wooden-ship-build-finished/?p=374717). I quickly realized that I missed putting time in daily working with my hands and building something. Aside from a Dremel, I currently don’t own any power tools suitable for modeling. So, with what Chuck offers for the Cheerful, and with the availability of a new Cheerful timbering package, with milled strip wood, from Jason at Crown Timberyard, I can build a POB ship with accurate plans, castello boxwood, and high quality rigging materials and fittings. I hope I’m able to hone the skills I developed on my longboat build, and do the Cheerful justice. Chuck, Mike (Stuntflyer), and Bob (rafine) have set the bar pretty high! Feel free to comment and offer constructive criticism. I realize how much better my longboat turned out with the input and advice from others. O.K. Time to stop typing and start building. I received my order from Chuck at Syren Ship Model Company last week, and my wood order from Jason at Crown Timberyard arrived yesterday. Here are a few photos of the raw materials . . . which will be slowly transformed into the HM Cheerful! Erik
  8. Bob, Thanks for posting more photos! She looks beautiful!! It's definitely a challenge to photograph the entire ship. Erik
  9. Bob, It looks great!! Like Blue Ensign, I too would like to see more photos. Erik
  10. I realized when I was planking the second belt of strakes on the first side of the hull that I wouldn't be able to use the clamps in the same way on the other side of the hull. Since the fully planked finished side is now rounded, the clamps have nothing to grip. I made a surface to place the clamps on out of a few dollars worth of basswood. I made it to a size and depth that would allow clamping of my strakes in the second belt as I work my way towards the first belt of strakes. It's working well so far. As with the other clamping I've done, I test fit the clamp position before I apply glue, so I can figure out the placement before I do it for real. Erik
  11. I've gotten more planking done on my Cheerful. The starboard side is complete, now it's on to the last half of the port side. Erik
  12. Thanks for the kind words! I make such a mess when I do the planking, with the glue smearing the pencil all over the place, glue finger prints, etc., that I can't tell how the joints between strakes will look until I sand all the mess off. As I sanded, I was pleasantly surprised that the last strake turned out so well. To get it to the right width I cut it down to get it to the basic shape, but slightly oversized, and then started at the bow with removing material and worked my way along the length of the plank. Meaning, once I got the first 1/2" so it would fit in between the adjacent strakes, I moved onto the next short segment, carefully sanding the plank edge and test fitting until it fit correctly with a little pressure. I erred on the side of not removing enough material as I did my sanding, before test fitting. As we all have learned the hard way, you can't put material back! Erik
  13. I reached a bit of a milestone today. I finished the planking on the starboard side. That last row of planks was a bit tricky, but I managed to avoid any gaps. I gave this side of the hull a once over with 120 grit emery boards. This is what I've done all my sanding with so far, and what I shape the planks with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CX9R0E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 They're flexible, so easily contour to the shape of the hull as I sand. I cut them into smaller shapes for detail work. Cheap and effective. This is a bit of a rough look since I'm waiting to get the hull fully planked, and the stern post attached, before I do any sanding near the stem and keel. I'm happy with the results so far. Lets hope the port "display" side of the hull turns out as well or better. I included a closeup shot of the planking to show the variety of pattern and color of the boxwood I'm using. I like the variation. Erik
  14. Oh it's bad. Trust me. It's so bad I can't even say it on the internet. Erik
  15. Nice job Per! But . . . we demand more photos than the few you posted in the gallery. Your build looks great, so needs to be shown in lots of large photos! It's the law according to the rules of the MSW statutes Section 4 subsection 4b paragraph 27 item 16 exhibit GE25J after all. It's a pretty serious infraction if you don't post more photos, just ask the moderators. Seriously though, good job! Erik
  16. Joe, I hadn't thought of that. I used the tape method to determine the edge bend of each plank. I finished the second-to-last row of planks last night, so forge ahead with the last row tonight. I'll probably do what I've been doing with the other rows. Using digital calipers I transfer, from my tick marks, the plank width to each plank where it sits on the bulkheads. Using first an Xacto blade, then a 180 grit emery board, I remove material on the plank down to my marks. I'm sure I'll test fit it around a million times to try to get it perfect. Erik
  17. I guess I just need to make sure I take extra time to get the plank shaped correctly. I looked at my longboat photos, where I planked it in the same fashion, and can't tell from the results which was the last plank . . . so I must've done something right. I'm probably worrying for nothing. Since it looks good so far, I don't want to screw the planking job up on the last row! Erik
  18. I need some advice. I'm about to start planking the last row of strakes on one side of the lower hull. I've planked the top 10 rows of strakes under the wales, and 9 rows up from the keel. So, the last row are the strakes is a row in the middle. So far I've had success with clamping the strakes to get them nice and snug, see my last post above. Do you guys, particularly those of you who do planking well (Chuck, Druxey, Stuntflyer, etc.) have any tips on how I should go about this last row of planks. I'm a bit concerned I'll wind up with gaps. I plan on beveling both edges. My thought was that if the plank is ever so slightly oversized, with beveled edges, it will force any slight gaps closed as I press the plank snug on the bulkheads. Does this sound like reasonable thinking? Thanks, Erik
  19. One little format thing I noticed. When you look at the location of the the poster, below the photo of ourselves in each post, the word Location has no space between it and the place. Erik
  20. Mike, I had figured ratlines were something that took weeks, rather than days. So, three days sounds quick to me! Erik
  21. Mike, The ratlines look great. How long did it take you to do the them? Erik
  22. Yes! The text is too large now (my opinion anyway). Also, in the Engraved theme wasn't the text color light gray before? I think the large font and the bright white text is too much. Erik
  23. Since I've been getting compliments on my planking, I thought I'd show you all how I go about gluing and holding the strakes onto the ship while the glue sets. I'm using PVA, since CA sets too fast for my liking. The first set of photos show the typical clamping positions on the top belt of strakes. All the clamps are test fit on the formed strake before I apply glue. You can figure out the best angle beforehand that way. The ideal clamp location is one that holds the strake firmly against the bulkhead as well as holding it to the edge of the strake you're gluing it to without bending or warping the plank, if at all possible. The clamping I'm doing is to hold the strakes tight while the glue sets, not to force the plank into place. I have edge bent them with heat (no water) and face bent them around a jar without heat to get them as close to the correct shape as possible. This next photo shows the clamping at the bow of the lower belt of strakes. The clamps are positioned for even pressure across the edge of the plank. On this one I couldn't get the clamp positioned to my liking at the very bow, so I did it the old fashioned way . . . held it tight with my fingers and sat there for 15 minutes. Now a short tutorial. I just glued this strake today and took photos of the process. The strake was shaped, had the edge beveled, and was pre-bent, before it was glued on. These next two photos show the first gluing session. I only glued the 3 left-most bulkheads and the edge of the plank between two and a half of those. The clamp on the right is up against the bulkhead where that side of the plank's edge is glued. I've found that when gluing a strake in sections, it works best to split the sections to be glued midway between bulkheads. I let this set for about 20 minutes. These next two photos show the tool I use to apply glue, and how I do it. I've been able to bend the boxwood and get in there with the curved sharp blade in order to get the glue as close to the previously glued plank center. I think it gets to within 1/8" or so on the plank edge. This shows more of the same in the center section of the strake. Again, notice that at the edges of the clamps on either side, the clamps are up against the interior bulkheads. I really try to make sure that the plank edge only half glued is snugged down tight. I also let this sit for about 20 minutes. And finally the last part of the plank. Testing the clamp position was essential on the very end of the plank because the shape is changing, so the clamp angle has to be adjusted. One thing I'd like to point out. Though this is only my second build, I don't feel like I necessarily have an aptitude that's greater than anyone else. I have noticed over the years that being patient and going slowly yields better results, always, than when rushing through things. Part of my ability to get the planking looking the way I want it is because of the time I've spent thinking how I'm going to do certain processes before I begin cutting wood. My goal is to build a ship, rather than to have a finished ship . . . so if the process takes me a while, that's fine. Lastly, some advice, don't ever look at the builds you admire on this board and think, "I can't do that." I'm convinced that taking your time, and spending the effort to think your processes through . . . and practice, practice, practice, will yield great results. Erik
  24. Thanks for the reply James. I appreciate all the effort you guys are putting into this upgrade . . . and for dealing with us folks in the peanut gallery! Erik
  25. I like the new version of the forum. I'm enjoying the Engraved theme. One thing I've noticed with the new version is that the text line spacing when typing a paragraph appears noticeably greater than it was in the previous forum version. Also, the text lines typed before the forum changeover have this extra spacing. Is this something that is possible to tighten up a bit? Also, it may be what is contributing to everyone's signature line being less compressed. Erik