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About Siegfried

  • Birthday 10/19/1974

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    Sailing vessels from the 17th to the early 18th century, especially the ships from the states of the Holy Roman Empire and from the French Kingdom
    Electronic Music

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  1. Hello Tony, Thank you for your input. TurboCAD offers also a Mac version. That's perfect. And I have to put it on my birthday list :-) Hello Dashicat, In all books, plans and AOTS I have only seen on Marquardt's Endeavour plans, that the wales are not running thinned flush into the rabbet. He has widen the rabbet to house the wales with the original width on his plans. That's why I had this question. But I will go on with thinning the wales as I find it a very interesting little detail. Regarding the wales I have in mind to fit the upper and lower wales butts with hooks. The middle strake will be standard. That scheme is seen on Granado. Anyhow there must be a reason why the Admiralty has chosen for Bethia, Earls of Pembrook and so on. There where probably a lot of potential ships. But I do assume, they where bought because both of them have been fitted more than less to the royal navy standards. As I do remember correct. Cook has chosen the Earl of Pembrook personally. And he was doubtless one of the best navigators of his time with excellent understanding about special demands on a ship. Am I right? Hello Lawrence, Now you can start your build soon and I am keen to see some progress on it. Because of my real job I had just limited space to do some progress on my build. This weekend I have solved the upper planking at the bow. On all plans it is clearly detective that the sheer is not running with the wales. It goes up at the bow. Following McKay the hull is 2-3 plank strake higher comparing to the mid section of the ship. He has suggested in his plans to thin the planks down to zero at its end. I doubt that was the right planking technique and have used some filler planks / joint butts as it is a common practice for the underwater hull. To me it makes much more sense as each plank can be fastened properly at the end. If you follow McKays draught, the top plank can't be fastened properly as there is not enough wood to fix it to the frames. Now it is looking a bit rough but after tree nailing and sanding it will turn out properly. Cheers, Daniel
  2. Jesus, Cobra, what have you done? I am so sorry. That hurts. Time to start a scratch build. Daniel
  3. Hi Mike, I do really like your diplomatic words. Sensational. You should work as ambassador. I could learn from you. Cheers, Daniel
  4. Hello Nigel, My father has build the DeAgostini Victory and I have to say it is of a terrible quality. Nothing matches really, the cannons and the carriages are just a kind of a joke. In the beginning it looks like a good price quality ratio. But in the end after purchasing all booklets with all pieces it was much expensive as a perfect kit you can by directly, especially after all material replacements. What's about the CC kit? Sorry, I hate to disillusion you, but this is my personal experience. Cheers, Daniel
  5. Hello, Because of some current questions I do post how to scale-up the drawings from a book at home without a CAD program. 1: scan it with care 2: make one print-out of the scan and compere it to the original source in the book, is it of the same size? (hold both pages by daylight agains a window) 3: to re-scale the pdfs you can do on the computer as follows a: go to file/print (don't use the printer button) b:chose the printer you wanna use c: chose the scale of the print out (standard is 100%), this is easy to calculate: 1:96 (or 1' = 1/8") to 1:12 (or 1' =1/1") = 800% (because 1:12 is 8 times larger than 1:96), (96/12=8) 1:96 (or 1/8) to 1:24 (or 1/2) = 400% (because 1:24 is 4 times larger than 1:96), (96/24=4) 1:96 (or 1/8) to 1:32 (or 3/8) = 300% (because 1:32 is 3 times larger than 1:96), (96/32=3) 1:96 (or 1/8) to 1:36 (or ?) = 266.66% (because 1:36 is 2.66 times larger than 1:96), (96/36=2.66) 1:96 (or 1/8) to 1:48 (or 1/4) = 200% (because 1:48 is 2 times larger than 1:96), (96/48=2) 1:96 (or 1/8) to 1:60 (or ?) = 160% (because 1:60 is 1.6 times larger than 1:96), (96/60=1.6) 1:96 (or 1/8) to 1:64 (or 3/16) = 150% (because 1:64 is 1.50 times larger than 1:96), (96/64=1.5) 1:96 (or 1/8) to 1:72 (or ?) = 133.33% (because 1:72 is 1.33 times larger than 1:96), (96/72=1.33) 4: print it out 5: assemble the pages together with a scotch Cheers, Daniel
  6. Hello Michael, Thank your for following my log. You are right, there are tons of a Bounty model dusting in living rooms. I just wanted to do my wish from the childhood as accurate as possible. McKays book in combination with the original drawings from the NMM offers a good source in company with another standard books about rigging from Marquardt, Lees, Petersson etc. Actually there are a lot of discrepancies between the Admiralty original draughts quickly taken off after her purchase and the draughts of McKay. I have to find my own way. By example, the original drawings doesn't show any figures at the stern and at the bow. Because of Bligh's log we know there was a women in a brown riding habit at the bow. Another point is the space between the upper whale and the sheer. Following McKay there has to be 10 strakes each 14 cm respectively 5 1/2" wide (2.2 mm in 1:64 scale).To me it was a strange thin strake. Normally I would go with a wide of 20 cm respectively 8". But that doesn't fit mathematically with the space left and so I made decision to use 9 strakes of 15,2 cm respectively 6". That means in scale 1:64 the strake has to be 3/32 wide and can be ordered easy at Crown Timberyard, Otherwise I had to use 10 strakes of 11/128 (equal to 2.2 mm). I assume that would be difficult to saw. I hope, my decision is not so far away from the real ship. Hi Robin, Thank you again for your comment regarding the wale planking technique. I had a look on your post and have answered my thoughts about it. As result I will go on with standard strake wales following the four shift planking layout of the hull. It probably makes the most sense. Hi Mark, You are right, overhauling or frequent repairs changes the look and the details of ships sometimes slowly but with massive effect on the original appearance of the ship. As we know, the colour scheme was depending on the captain's taste, rigging could change several times during construction and after the first test sales or first voyages. Sometimes no record left. But the most of us are able to identify a sailing vessel by minor characteristics. Even if the model is not absolutely historical correct. I assume most of us can identify an Endeavour, Bounty, Cruiser Class, Victory, Constitution, Syren, La Courone etc. Few days ago there was a post on Dubz Syren about his next project he is planning with Daniel Duzek. he just posted the timbers of the bow and the most followers directly recognised the Confederacy. Just because of few not assembled bow timbers. To me it is amazing as for the most people out there one sailing vessel is looking equal to the next one and differs in colour scheme or in size of armament only. Hi Lawrence, Thank for following my build log and for your warm comments. Bounty is worth it to make a good scratch build. Do you have McKays Anatomy of the Ship HM Armed Vessel Bounty? The housing abaft the rudder is also drawn on the original NMM draughts and the original purpose was to store flags (and some bottles of rum from the crew ) I do not know Amatis plans but I am sure, McKays book gives you a lot of additional information. Wish you a good start! Cheers, Daniel
  7. Hello Robin, Thank you for your comment and you are right. The question about the wale layout drives me. I had some input from this forum about that point. The problem actually is, that there are no so much records or building contracts for merchantmen available as for ships/sloops of war. The reason is simple as those builds where private orders with no norms as requested and recorded by the Admiralty for ships of war. Therefore the ship building techniques for private builds are not as deep researched as with "governmental" orders. However, let's try to think logical. Other than warships with clear demands in terms of quality, life cycle, handling in action etc, merchantmen are build to make the max profit with as less as possible of investment.That means, it is build of modal quality. In other words, with the cheapest materials from the cheapest supplier on the most easiest way. That was the same in the 18th century as nowadays, isn't it? Therefore McKay's solution with classic strakes for the wales makes sense. As the ship was not build and even not bought for military service, there where no special need to strengthen the wales by hook or anchor top and butt planking as seen in Marquardt's drawings in AOTS Endeavour or on many frigates and ship of the lines. Has anyone out there another input about this point? Every idea is welcome. Cheers, Daniel
  8. Hello, Thank you all for your likes! Before the upper strakes can be put in place I have to place all timber heads to assure a strong hold for the timbers. Cheers, Daniel
  9. Hello Christian, Thanks for your interest and your compliment. During the last day I had a little time to start with the planking of the upper hull. It's going slowly and needs a lot of patience. The upper strakes shall be 3/32 wide x 3 /64 thick. Because of unavoidable sanding after the tree nailing I use 3/32 x 1/8. That gives 0,4 mm retrospectively 1/64 material to sand down. I think it shall be enough. The upper and lower sides of the strakes are treated with a pencil to give later on a slight effect of filling material. Cheers, Daniel
  10. Hello Nigel, It's always a great moment if the first planks are put in place the beauty of the ship comes out slowly. Isn't it? Cheers, Daniel
  11. Hi Dirk, Happy Easter! But hold on, from what exactly is the netting made of? It's looking very natural. On this point I always was thinking about a pair of tights to do the netting. Cheers, Daniel
  12. Wonderful build Wim! I really like it. Something special and a rare model in our western hemisphere. Fantastic craftsmanship. What's you next project? Cheers, Daniel
  13. Hi Cobra, Thank you for your comment and many thanks for all the likes of the followers! Meanwhile the frame construction of the sterns it's finished and now I am ready to start with the wales. Cheers, Daniel
  14. A little progress on the stern frames and the side windows ... Daniel