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jml1083

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About jml1083

  • Birthday 02/25/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern NJ, USA
  • Interests
    Wood carving
    International travel
    Competition trap shooting

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  1. Minor progress today but progress is progress. Once the glue dried on the work I did the other day it was time to install the thin keel piece with all the notches for the frames. As with the previous work I did not remove the char from the bottom of this piece and used yellow wood glue so I'd have time to position the piece exactly where I wanted it. In the first photo you can see that this piece is very slightly over sized. This is a good thing so that you can adjust for any slight variances in your model. The fix is to carefully sand off a tiny amount of wood from the FORWARD part of this piece (red arrow shows where to sand). If you look at the piece you'll see that the forward end is blunt whereas the back end has a small step cut into it. If you sand the back you will create a smaller recess for the frame to fit in. After very little sanding the piece fit snugly without creating a bow (see below). To get accurate positions for the bolts in the keel I used a small Post-It note. I stuck it to the drawing, traced the outline of where it goes, marked each of the bolt holes, then cut out the template. With the templates stuck to the keel I drilled the holes using a #74 drill bit. The #74 slipped right into the hole even with glue on it. After I finished the first side I flipped the keel over and positioned the templates then drilled the holes using the holes made in the templates from the other side. Once the glue is dry I'll use a razor blade to cut off the fishing line that is protruding above the surface of the wood. A lite sanding and then a second coat of Wipe-On-Poly to finish this part of the keel. On to frames next.
  2. Very nice work Ken. You and I are at the exact same place. I'll bring my model to the next meeting.
  3. After a very long absence I'm back at the ship modeling workbench. I've retired since my last posts on my Bluenose (which is still waiting in the wings) and retirement presents its own happy challenges that kept me out of the shop. I'm now up to 4 grandchildren and thrilled that they keep me really busy. The oldest is 9 and the youngest is 8 months old. Competition trapshooting keeps me very busy and during the nice weather I'd rather be on a trap field that holed up in my windowless shop. During the spring and summer months I travel throughout the northeast US for competitions and as a consequence I'm no where near my shop. I have really missed ship modeling but the longer I was away from it the harder it seemed to get back into it. I'm still a member of the Ship Model Society of NJ so I keep in touch with modeling that way but it's not the same as sitting at the bench making something. My Bluenose is years behind schedule and the more I concentrated on trying to get that moving the more discouraged I became. Chuck is a very good friend of mine and he saw what I was struggling with and suggested I ease myself back into it via a group build of the Medway Longboat. That was the best idea I've heard in a long time so here I am. Mike (Stuntflyer) is also a friend and member of SMSNJ and I've been watching his progress closely both in person and by following his build log here on MSW. We were both at Chuck's house today and they convinced me that in addition to building the longboat, keeping a build log will keep me connected and, I know from past experience, motivated. So, here goes. Work started today and I'm taking photos as I go and will post the ones I think most beneficial to others. If you have questions about how I did something please don't hesitate to ask. To assemble the keel I'm using yellow Titebond wood glue. This will give me time to adjust pieces and things "just right" before the glue sets. I've not had problems with gluing on laser char in the past so I don't sand the char away, in most cases. This first photo shows how a piece looks when it comes out of the billet. The cream colored line is where the little tab was that connected the piece to the billet . The next photo shows the extent to which I sand the piece to remove what's left of the tab. As you can see I don't take off very much char or wood. It is only enough that when I run my finger over it I can't feel any sort of bump where the tab was. Once I reach this point I stop sanding. This third photo is how I assembled the 4 pieces of the stern. The wood is very slightly oversized in thickness so I sanded it until it was very close to .0938" (3/8"). If I didn't do this there would have been less that 1/32" rabbet. I used two pieces of 1/32" scrap, one on either side so that when I clamped it all together the gray clamp holds everything nicely centered. The blue clamp keeps the vertical pieces in contact while the glue dries and the red clamp does the same thing for the horizontal glue joints. The red arrows and thin red lines show the 1/32" alignment pieces. I used a lap joint to join the keel pieces but my photos of that process came out horribly which I didn't realize until after it was all assembled. I used a #11 scalpel blade to make a stop cut and then whittled away at it until the joints were only a few thousandths of an inch over size then used sanding sticks to clean it all up. It was easier than I thought it would be. My first inclination was to pull out the mill for this but I realized set up time would probably be longer than the process I used so I didn't go that route. Tomorrow I'll finish the keel and move on to making frames. It feels good to finally be building again and writing this log.
  4. The Keel The first element I tackled is the keel which is made up of 8 laser cut pieces. Before removing them from the billets I sanded off the char that was left on the backside of the billet from the laser. There really wasn't a lot but it's easier to remove it from the faces before you remove it from the billet. Once that was done I liberated the pieces from the billets. The keel has rabbets, which are nothing more than bevels, on the top side of the keel. The keel itself is 5/32" thick and the rabbets need to be 1/32" x 1/32". I cut a piece of 1/32" scrap and used it to trace a line on the sides and top of the keel which I then pared down using a #11 scalpel blade. On the curved stem I did the same thing using a scrap piece that had the correct curve traced from the stem. On the sides I used a compass with a very sharp pencil. This photo shows the side of the keel with the rabbet line drawn. The top of the keel would look the same. This step is done after the various keel sections are glued together. This is a shot of the curved 1/32" piece I used to trace the rabbet line on the stem. Just slide the piece into position and trace your line. Flip the stem over and trace the line on the other side.
  5. Welcome back Alistair, you've been missed! Whatever you work on I'm sure it will be masterfully done. I'm not sure how it works down under but up here in NJ a flying boat is still a "boat"
  6. This is a photo of the kit right out of the box. The cherry is beautiful and this will be a striking model when it is completed. The top piece is the build board, also made out of cherry. It comes in two pieces with slots where each of the frames will be positioned. This type construction eliminates all of the added bracing people used to try and keep frames square when they build the Pinnace. This type build board keeps the frames square and level making construction that much easier. The location of each frame is labeled on the build board to reduce the chance of placing a frame in the wrong location.The large blocks to the left are feet that will be glued onto the build board to raise it off the workbench so the tops of the frames have clearance. In the middle are the sheets that contain the floors and futtocks. In another post I'll go into detail about how these are assembled. At the bottom of the photo are some of the thicker elements, also made of cherry and also laser cut.
  7. This is Syren Ship Model's soon to be released kit. It is plank on frame and will be built admiralty style with frames showing. Chuck has come up with an ingenious way of constructing frames with floors and futtocks that uses laser cut parts. The kit uses cherry for most of the parts but some embellishments will be in boxwood. This is a photo of a similar model from the National Maritime Museum
  8. 20 Roseland Ave, Roseland NJ This coming Tuesday, August 24th is the next monthly meeting of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey, all are welcome. The meeting starts at 6:45 PM. We meet at the Roseland Public Library located at 20 Roseland Ave, Roseland, NJ. Our diverse and active membership is made up of kit builders, kit bashers and scratch builders, those that build wooden ships and those that work in plastic. Our members build ships from every era from the age of sail to 20th century ocean liners, World War II destroyers and pond sailers. We work in every scale you can think of from 1:12 to 1:700. You name it, our members build it. Each meeting is different but in general we have a brief business meeting and then it’s on to what everyone comes for, the models and the sharing of information. Tool Time: People bring in tools they’ve discovered and show how they use them to make better models. Books & Pubs: Members bring in books or magazines and we have a brief discussion of their merits or lack thereof. You can save a small fortune by being able to flip the pages of a book to see if it is what you really want before you buy it. Some of our members are published authors and they gladly sign their work if presented in person - (hint, you have to attend the meeting ;-) Tech Sessions: Many meetings have a tech session where one of the members demonstrates a specific skill or building technique. In the past we’ve had tech sessions that covered tool sharpening, resistance soldering, using a vertical mill, making your own rope with a very inexpensive rope walk, to name just a few. For the August Tech Session yours truly will be giving a presentation on using the Internet for research. Model Show & Tell: This is everyone’s favorite. Members bring in completed models or works in progress and they give a short talk about it. They tell us what they like or don’t like about it, the problems they have had to overcome and how they did it and they can ask for advice if they are stumped by some aspect of the build. Models are on display during the meeting and during the coffee break there is always a crowd at the model tables. Not everyone brings in a model for every meeting so each month is unique. In addition to the regular monthly meeting at the library we also have two other meetings each month. The first is a hands on work session and the second is a group build meeting. Hands On Work Session: One of our members owns a shop that has a second floor work room with tables, chairs and electricity. It’s heated in the winter and air conditioned in the summer. On the 3rd Saturday of the month anyone who wants to gets together for a 3 hour hands on work session. Everyone brings whatever they want to work on and the tools they need and we get to work. We do a lot of talking as well. This is a very relaxed way to spend part of a Saturday while working with others who share your passion for ship modeling. On average about 8 people show up for this and for many of us, it is the highlight of our month. Group Build: The club always has a group build in progress. A Group Build is where everyone who wants to builds the same model. We meet once a month to compare notes, solve problems and socialize. We recently started Admiralty Model's Echo cross section. We have 12 members in this group. The Broad Axe: This is our monthly publication of club minutes plus a lot more. Our editors scour the web looking for information and this where they share their finds. All of the above is great to know and list some of the benefits of being a club member but the biggest benefit for all of us are the other members. If you have a question there are any number of people you can ask for advice and it is given freely and willingly. There are no egos in our club, only friends you haven’t met yet. At the NRG conference in St. Louis someone said to me "The best tool for any modeler is to belong to an active ship modeling club". A truer statement was never made. You know you want to join us, and we want you to join but you have to take that the first step. Once you do you’ll be happy you did. Many people are nervous about walking into a room full of people they don’t know but by the time the coffee break is over you will not be a stranger anymore. We've all been there and know how it feels so you won't be left sitting on your own, as a matter of fact we sit in a semi-circle so everyone can see everyone else and everyone is always sitting next to someone else. Members of other clubs who happen to be in the North Jersey area on meeting nights are always more than welcome to sit in and join the fun. Chances are you've chatted with more than one of us here on Model Ship World. Stop in and meet us in person! If you have any questions or concerns feel free to send me a private message and we can talk it over. See you Tuesday, I'll save you a seat.
  9. 20 Roseland Ave, Roseland NJ This coming Tuesday, June 23rd, is the next monthly meeting of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey, all are welcome. The meeting starts at 6:30 PM. We meet at the Roseland Public Library located at 20 Roseland Ave, Roseland, NJ. Our diverse and active membership is made up of kit builders, kit bashers and scratch builders, those that build wooden ships and those that work in plastic. Our members build ships from every era from the age of sail to 20th century ocean liners, World War II destroyers and pond sailers. We work in every scale you can think of from 1:12 to 1:700. You name it, our members build it. Each meeting is different but in general we have a brief business meeting and then it’s on to what everyone comes for, the models and the sharing of information. Tool Time: People bring in tools they’ve discovered and show how they use them to make better models. Books & Pubs: Members bring in books or magazines and we have a brief discussion of their merits or lack thereof. You can save a small fortune by being able to flip the pages of a book to see if it is what you really want before you buy it. Some of our members are published authors and they gladly sign their work if presented in person - (hint, you have to attend the meeting ;-) Tech Sessions: Many meetings have a tech session where one of the members demonstrates a specific skill or building technique. In the past we’ve had tech sessions that covered tool sharpening, resistance soldering, using a vertical mill, making your own rope with a very inexpensive rope walk, to name just a few. For the June Tech Session Chuck will be giving a demo of his new Syren Servo-Matic ship model rope serving machine! Not only is this a beautiful machine, it also works beautifully Model Show & Tell: This is everyone’s favorite. Members bring in completed models or works in progress and they give a short talk about it. They tell us what they like or don’t like about it, the problems they have had to overcome and how they did it and they can ask for advice if they are stumped by some aspect of the build. Models are on display during the meeting and during the coffee break there is always a crowd at the model tables. Not everyone brings in a model for every meeting so each month is unique. In addition to the regular monthly meeting at the library we also have two other meetings each month. The first is a hands on work session and the second is a group build meeting. Hands On Work Session: One of our members owns a shop that has a second floor work room with tables, chairs and electricity. It’s heated in the winter and air conditioned in the summer. On the 3rd Saturday of the month anyone who wants to gets together for a 3 hour hands on work session. Everyone brings whatever they want to work on and the tools they need and we get to work. We do a lot of talking as well. This is a very relaxed way to spend part of a Saturday while working with others who share your passion for ship modeling. On average about 8 people show up for this and for many of us, it is the highlight of our month. Group Build: The club always has a group build in progress. A Group Build is where everyone who wants to builds the same model. We meet once a month to compare notes, solve problems and socialize. We recently started Admiralty Model's Echo cross section. We have 12 members in this group. The Broad Axe: This is our monthly publication of club minutes plus a lot more. Our editors scour the web looking for information and this where they share their finds. All of the above is great to know and list some of the benefits of being a club member but the biggest benefit for all of us are the other members. If you have a question there are any number of people you can ask for advice and it is given freely and willingly. There are no egos in our club, only friends you haven’t met yet. At the NRG conference in St. Louis someone said to me "The best tool for any modeler is to belong to an active ship modeling club". A truer statement was never made. You know you want to join us, and we want you to join but you have to take that the first step. Once you do you’ll be happy you did. Many people are nervous about walking into a room full of people they don’t know but by the time the coffee break is over you will not be a stranger anymore. We've all been there and know how it feels so you won't be left sitting on your own, as a matter of fact we sit in a semi-circle so everyone can see everyone else and everyone is always sitting next to someone else. Members of other clubs who happen to be in the North Jersey area on meeting nights are always more than welcome to sit in and join the fun. Chances are you've chatted with more than one of us here on Model Ship World. Stop in and meet us in person! If you have any questions or concerns feel free to send me a private message and we can talk it over. See you Tuesday, I'll save you a seat.
  10. jml1083

    Hermione

    Thanks for posting the photos. A couple of the guys from the Ship Model Society of NJ will be driving down to Philly on the Friday the 26th to see her.
  11. Toni, so sorry to hear about Sadie. I know how hard it is to make that decision. You have my most sincere sympathy.
  12. Today I started to raise frames. I made a jig out of 1/8" plexiglass to help make this process as accurate as possible. The profile of the keel structure is cut into the bottom of the face piece. The grid you see on the face was made in MS-Excel to no particular scale. I printed the grid out on self-stick Mylar. This first photo is from the front and shows the Deadflat0 frame in place. The second photo is the back of the jig from an 45° angle to show how everything lines up. The blue tape is just to make the pieces stand out a bit. After applying the Mylar grid to the front and cutting the base so the keel is exactly dead center I built the back supports. These are nothing more than 2 bases with an upright glued to the center. For these it is important to make sure everything meets at exactly 90°. The front of the uprights is perfectly flush with the front of the bases. Once the glue has had time to really set I went about attaching the back supports to the back of the face piece. To do this I slide both supports into the keel which I used to set the proper gap. With both support pieces in place I ran a line of glue along the base where the supports meet the face piece. After a couple of seconds I made sure the face piece was in contact with the front edge of each support and ran a line of glue down these joints. When I'm raising a frame I use a small bar clamp to gently squeeze the keel assembly with the bases of the support pieces. This keeps the whole thing from moving as I raise the frame. The third photo is another view of the back of the jig, this time looking straight on. Because everything is square to everything else this makes a handy way to raise frames and check their alignment. The scale of the grid doesn't matter, the lines are just used to check symmetry. The jig is used on a piece of glass to make sure the base I'm working on is dead flat. Once the glue has dried on one frame the jig can be slid back to make room for the next frame. Up next is raising the other 11 frames then I'll install the gun port sills, sweep sills and scuppers.
  13. Attention Ship Modelers! The Ship Model Society of New Jersey Has A New Home! 20 Roseland Ave, Roseland NJ This coming Tuesday, May 26h, is the next monthly meeting of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey, all are welcome. The meeting starts at 6:30 PM. This will be our first meeting at our new home, the Roseland Public Library located at 20 Roseland Ave, Roseland, NJ. Our diverse and active membership is made up of kit builders, kit bashers and scratch builders, those that build wooden ships and those that work in plastic. Our members build ships from every era from the age of sail to 20th century ocean liners, World War II destroyers and pond sailers. We work in every scale you can think of from 1:12 to 1:700. You name it, our members build it. Our May meeting is Bring A Model Night and members and visitors alike are asked to bring in a model (or two or three). This can be a completed model or one you are working on now. This is always a popular meeting, let's face it, who doesn't like looking at models? Each meeting is different but in general we have a brief business meeting and then it’s on to what everyone comes for, the models and the sharing of information. Tool Time: People bring in tools they’ve discovered and show how they use them to make better models. Books & Pubs: Members bring in books or magazines and we have a brief discussion of their merits or lack thereof. You can save a small fortune by being able to flip the pages of a book to see if it is what you really want before you buy it. Some of our members are published authors and they gladly sign their work if presented in person - (hint, you have to attend the meeting ;-) Tech Sessions: Many meetings have a tech session where one of the members demonstrates a specific skill or building technique. In the past we’ve had tech sessions that covered tool sharpening, resistance soldering, using a vertical mill, making your own rope with a very inexpensive rope walk, to name just a few. Model Show & Tell: This is everyone’s favorite. Members bring in completed models or works in progress and they give a short talk about it. They tell us what they like or don’t like about it, the problems they have had to overcome and how they did it and they can ask for advice if they are stumped by some aspect of the build. Models are on display during the meeting and during the coffee break there is always a crowd at the model tables. Not everyone brings in a model for every meeting so each month is unique. In addition to the regular monthly meeting at the library we also have two other meetings each month. The first is a hands on work session and the second is a group build meeting. Hands On Work Session: One of our members owns a shop that has a second floor work room with tables, chairs and electricity. It’s heated in the winter and air conditioned in the summer. On the 3rd Saturday of the month anyone who wants to gets together for a 3 hour hands on work session. Everyone brings whatever they want to work on and the tools they need and we get to work. We do a lot of talking as well. This is a very relaxed way to spend part of a Saturday while working with others who share your passion for ship modeling. On average about 8 people show up for this and for many of us, it is the highlight of our month. Group Build: The club always has a group build in progress. A Group Build is where everyone who wants to builds the same model. We meet once a month to compare notes, solve problems and socialize. We recently started Admiralty Model's Echo cross section. We have 12 members in this group. The Broad Axe: This is our monthly publication of club minutes plus a lot more. Our editors scour the web looking for information and this where they share their finds. Here is the April issue. All of the above is great to know and list some of the benefits of being a club member but the biggest benefit for all of us are the other members. If you have a question there are any number of people you can ask for advice and it is given freely and willingly. There are no egos in our club, only friends you haven’t met yet. At the NRG conference in St. Louis someone said to me "The best tool for any modeler is to belong to an active ship modeling club". A truer statement was never made. You know you want to join us, and we want you to join but you have to take that the first step. Once you do you’ll be happy you did. Many people are nervous about walking into a room full of people they don’t know but by the time the coffee break is over you will not be a stranger anymore. We've all been there and know how it feels so you won't be left sitting on your own, as a matter of fact we sit in a semi-circle so everyone can see everyone else and everyone is always sitting next to someone else. Members of other clubs who happen to be in the North Jersey area on meeting nights are always more than welcome to sit in and join the fun. Chances are you've chatted with more than one of us here on Model Ship World. Stop in and meet us in person! If you have any questions or concerns feel free to send me a private message and we can talk it over. See you Tuesday, I'll save you a seat.
  14. Hi Druxey, I tried bamboo but had no luck. I was using bamboo skewers sold in packs of 100 for the food service industry. The wood is very dry and hard as I tried to split the bamboo down the middle my knife would take a zig to the outside and that was the end of that. Even soaking the wood for awhile did no good. I wonder if there is a better source of bamboo that I could use that is easier to split.
  15. Quick update on treenails. I debated using actual treenails or doing what Maury did, which looks just as good. In the end I went with actual treenails for a couple reasons. The primary reason was for strength. The second reason was I wanted to see how painful this was with just 144 before I commit to doing the hull this way. Treenails were made using a Byrnes draw plate which puts a smile on my face every time I use it. Such a simple tool but poorly made it can be a horror. Jim's draw plate is a precision tool which is a joy to use. I started with 1/32" x 1/32" (.79mm x .79mm) boxwood and drew it down to .021" (.53mm) which equates to a treenail that is 1". I believe this is a little over sized but I had trouble pulling the boxwood any finer than that. One of the guys in my club (Roy) gave me a great tip for using the draw plate which I will pass on here. He suggested that after I pull the piece through the draw plate and I reverse the wood and pull it through again. When you get to the smaller diameters this really makes life a lot easier. I found once I got under about .28" I would pull the wood through each hole 4 or more times. The more times you do it the faster it goes and it makes it a lot easier to get the next smaller diameter going. I drilled the holes using a #74 carbide drill bit in a drill press. I found that using yellow wood glue on the treenails gave me a snug fit. The jury is still out on doing the hull with actual treenails. I actually enjoy drilling the holes and inserting them, it's just that pulling them takes so much time. I spent over an hour pulling enough boxwood to make the 144 treenails needed for the chocks. Up next I will double check the locations of the remaining gun port sills, scuppers, etc and then cut the grooves. Once that is done I'll raise the frames and get to work with fairing the hull.

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