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jimvanlan99

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About jimvanlan99

  • Birthday 03/01/1947

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boone, NC and Athens, GA
  • Interests
    Model ship building, cycling, reading, travel

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  1. Bob, Thank you. I appreciate your comment. It means a lot. Hope you're feeling better. And thank you to those of you who "liked" the pictures of my (slow) progress. It is nice to see that I headed in the right direction. Cheers, Jim
  2. After a lot of trial and error, I finally got one cannon installed on Fair American. In truth, there was a lot more error than trial! So, one down, 13 to go. Cheers, Jim
  3. Bob, Congratulations on a beautiful build. While it may not come up to your (very high) standards, it looks absolutely terrific to me. Hope your health problems are behind you and you can take up another, better build in the near future. Jim
  4. This week's (and I mean the entire week) accomplishment was the beakhead of Fair American. All the components were made of 1/16" boxwood. Also put in place the eyebolts for the cannon outhaul tackle as well as the eyebolts in the deck for the inhaul tackle as well as the bolts and rings around the capstan. The eyebolts for the cannon tackle are of 28 gauge black wire while I used 25 gauge black wire for the eyebolts and rings around the capstan. Finally installed the catheads and the fore gallows. Whew! I don't know about others, but I spent 60% of my time putting in new pieces, 35% of my time repairing damage to what was already installed and 5% of my time cursing to myself. Anyway, it is what it is. Jim
  5. I started installing deck furniture and furnishings this week, starting from the stern. All of the furniture is of boxwood. I left everything its natural finish except for the pinrails and the bulwark cleats, which I painted red to match the inner bulwarks. Also got the quarter badges installed as well as the steps on both port and starboard sides of the ship. On the quarter badges, I initially attempted to make window frames out of wood, but every attempt resulted in pieces that just looked too large. So I ultimately went to paper strips glued to clear plastic to simulate the glass panes. I painted the quarter badges gold. Now that I look at them and rather like what I see, I am thinking maybe I should just go with the gold paint wherever the plans calls for gilt or gold leaf. Painting is certainly a lot easier and a lot more forgiving. Anyway, here are pictures of the progress for the week: Cheers to all. Jim
  6. jimvanlan99

    Syren 11.jpg

    Beautiful detail and workmanship! Wow!
  7. Dave, Your model is looking great. I like the hull, and your gun carriages from scratch are awesome. Congratulations on the fine work. Jim
  8. jimvanlan99

    Swampscott Dory

    The Swampscott Dory was my first model as well. I thoroughly enjoyed it - so much that I moved on to MS Bluenose and now MS Fair American. Good job on your dory! Jim
  9. Bob, Thank you very much. And thanks to all of you have "liked" the progress. Jim
  10. With the top rail in place, it is time to start putting in place some of the deck furniture that I have been preparing. Here are a couple of pictures showing the ship's wheel/rudder tackle and ladder installed
  11. I received my order of Castello boxwood on Friday, so have been working on cutting and fitting the main rails. They are done finally. The edge of the main rail, including its extension along the hull to the stern I have left with gray primer. I intend this to be gilted with faux gold leaf, but I will not be able to do this until the ABSOLUTELY last step of model making. I tried to put gold leaf on the edge of the quarter piece/taffrail earlier. While the gold leaf looked good, I quickly found that it comes off very easily if one so much as comes close to touching it. So that will be the last step. While waiting for the boxwood to arrive I worked on other pieces of the deck furniture. Here is a composite of the log pumps, the ship's wheel, the fore bitts and the bowsprit bitts. Here are a couple of close ups of a pump and the ship's wheel. The ship's wheel is courtesy of Siren. It is the smaller of the two the company offers. It is a small bit larger than the wheel that came with the kit and I questioned using it. However, after making several attempts at making a wheel from scratch, I decided that a wheel in hand was better than two in . . . Finally, I completed the figurehead. Below is a closeup of her in her red, white and blue outfit, kneeling in some grass (or I guess that is the intention of the designer). Cheers to all, Jim
  12. Dwight, I got mine at Amazon. I think mine are the Westcott Ship Curve, set of 6 for $17.57. I have found them extremely useful especially when I was working on spiling the planks for the hull. Jim
  13. Tom, This is a pretty easy question for me to answer (I think) since I do not yet have the wood from which I will fabricate the top rail. First of all, let me say that I increased the size of the gunports, as many other builders have done. My gunports are 3/8" square (this is the size of the actual ports, the openings in the outer planking are bigger because you leave part of the gunport framing showing (this would be where the port's "lid" would sit when closed, if Fair American had such "lids." Anyway, that said, the top of the bulwark is 22/32" higher than the main fore deck; at the rear of the main deck where the main rail steps up, the bulwark is 30/32" above the main deck. When you get to the quarter deck, my bulwark is only 2/32" above the quarter deck, which is why the ship has railings there, I guess. I hope by "bulwark stanchions" you mean the actual bulwarks. As for planking, no, I did not use the walnut, and I only did one layer of planking. The planking of the bulwark (both inboard and outboard) is boxwood, finished with a wipe-on polyurethane finish. The wales are pear wood painted flat black. And all of the planking below the walls is made of holly wood, finished, again, with a wipe-on polyurethane finish. The only parts of the hull that are painted are the wales, the upper part of the stem, and the transom and counter at the stern. The small strips of trim around the transom windows and above and below the windows are boxwood, finished with polyurethane. The holly wood is a nice, very light colored wood, that works well (I found bending it with a curling iron to be very easy even for the acute bends at the stern). And as you can see in the pictures, the polyurethane finish brings out the color of the holly very nicely. I appreciate you kinds words about my progress on the Fair American. There are days when it seems I accomplish nothing and other days when I can actually see and appreciate the progress, however slow. Cheers, I am no expert on modeling - there are others who are true craftsmen on this blog - but I will be happy to answer any questions I can for you. Jim Hope this helps.
  14. Today marked a minor milestone passed - completion of the fourteen cannon carriages for the Fair American. Somehow in the process of moving from mountains of NC to our vacation home in (mostly) sunny GA, I managed to misplace/lose one cannon barrel. I have ordered a replacement plus a spare. The quoins still need to be finished with wipe on poly, which I will do when I apply finish to a number of other parts that eventually get attached to the outside of the hull (channels, fairleads, steps). Progress continues - if ever so slowly. For the eagle eyed among you, the yellow at the stem is the figurehead's blond tresses. The figurehead is about half done. Jim
  15. Etubino, Thank you. And thank you to those of you who have "liked" my progress. Jim

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