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RRLittle

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About RRLittle

  • Birthday 12/02/1962

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  • Website URL
    http://roberts-old-ships.blogspot.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida, USA
  • Interests
    Medieval and early Renaissance ships, astronomy, baroque and classical music.

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  1. The anchors were carefully rigged as per the original Anderson/Pritchard design, tied to the fore ratlines. Two flags were made from cigarette paper (note; I'm a nonsmoker) with colors added with colored pens. Fine line was looped around the flagstaffs on the fore and main mast, and the flags glued into place, after pre-shaping them. All that remains in this shot is the nameplate on the now painted stand. The model itself is now finished. Construction time was estimated to be over 100 hours.
  2. The last items on the ship itself that needed attention were the anchors. The kit includes a simple one that lacks stocks. Another anchor was cut from styrene sheet, a brass ring was added, and they were painted and weathered before colored cardstock stocks were added. This should give an idea of how small they are; this was shot through a large desk loupe. The scale is in inches. The scratch built anchor is on the right.
  3. Meant to include this shot earlier. This is the bowsprit rigging while it was underway. To help keep the lines taut, I used these new miniature clothes pegs. They are fairly inexpensive for a large number of them. Highly recommended as an addition to your tool set.
  4. The bowlines were made from 32 gauge brass wire, built up separately, and carefully installed in place. Finally, the sheets and mainsail tacks were added. This completed the bulk of the running rigging. As you can tell, by this point, my other camera was back up and running as well.
  5. The mizzen tackle proved to be a challenge. Here, I failed, once more, to heed my own advice; work inside to outside, bottom to top. Failing to do that, I found myself having to work around rigging. It was tedious. It was completed, but took far longer than expected. As a result of my poor planning, I decided that some additional rigging details were going to be omitted altogether, though I don't think their absence has made too much of an impact.
  6. Here is a shot of the mizzen sail and some of its rigging to give one an idea of how small this model really is.
  7. 5th December - Work is slow right now, doing what I can when I am able. The braces for the main mast yards are up. Due to my shaky hands, the process took longer than anticipated. Also, my main camera is still down, so this image's quality is not the greatest. Monday things should improve. Cheers, - Robert
  8. Ironically, this is larger than the usual scale I build in! The eyes age, needing to go larger, even if a little. Thank you.
  9. I am back to work on the Mayflower, though things have slowed down. Let me apologize for the images, however. Not only are they from my phone, my online storage site is being a bit cranky. Running rigging is underway. It is a combination of regular thread and 34 gauge copper wire. The mizzen lift was a complicated affair. It is a combination of copper wire and thread, and required very steady hands. More to come as I proceed. Cheers, - Robert
  10. 23rd November, 2015 - It has been a few days since I last posted. I've had some problems with my Kodak digital, and lost some images, but I will catch everyone up. The yards were made and laced with the sail "robands" before the sails were added. The reason here was that the sails are made with fine tissue, and running them through would have been a risky proposition. The robands were laced in such a way that one strip of the fine khaki line that made them faced forward, and the sails' heads were glued to these. Once I was satisfied, the sails (which feature penciled details and a watercolor wash) and yards were glued into place. Three of the sails, the sprit, fore, and main, are partially furled, as in the original model. The mizzen is slung to the port side of the mast, unlike the original (vive la differance?). As I began the running rigging, there was an accident. A large bottle of glue fell over and knocked the model to the floor, damaging several yards and the running rigging that was in place. The sturdier standing rigging held up fine. I implemented repairs, but unfortunately they show (the fore top yard was reshaped slightly by removal of some rigging, for instance). After re-rigging most of the sprit sail this evening (still need to add the sheets and clews), I decided to call it a night. The model will not meet the self imposed Thanksgiving deadline, I'm afraid.
  11. Once all the deadeye assemblies were completed, each received a coat of varnish to seal everything together. While certainly not perfect, especially when scrutinized, it certainly is better than foregoing them altogether. Unfortunately, I discovered at this point in the project that the bowsprit was now pointed a bit too high. Sadly, not much I can do about it without scrapping the entire project. Have to live with it, I'm afraid. C'est la vie.
  12. The deadeyes posed a bit of a problem. On larger scale models, I use very small diameter brown card stock punch-outs. On smaller models, I use blobs of glue. This model fell effectively between those two. I decided to try an experimental method. As this version of the "Mayflower" used heart blocks, and as I lack an appropriately shaped punch, I decided instead to make two strips of brown card stock, one 3/16", the other 1/8". Down the center of each strip, I drew a thick black line, roughly 2/3 the strip's width. Then, 1/16" segments were cut from this, each segment given a triangular tip on the ends matching the height of the brown sections. These would serve as the backing for the deadeyes. The smaller strip (the 1/8") would serve as the mizzen and top masts, the wider naturally for the lower masts. Here, the smaller strip is cut for the assemblies. By themselves, they look okay from a distance. However, they are not really complete. Small sections of fine khaki thread were glued over the black sections; initially the outer pieces, and finally an inner line. This is the lower assemblies under way. White glue was used throughout, straightening as I went along.
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