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mikiek

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About mikiek

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  1. Crown Timberyard - two thumbs up

    I'm glad to hear Jason has things rolling again. It seemed like things were kinda rocky for a while. He does offer a good product and has always been very helpful when I have needed assistance. Even in the U.S. Cornwall can't be beat on many products. I get all my European kits thru them. The turnaround is fantastic - store to door is usually 4-5 days. Some kits are literally hundreds less than anyone over here.
  2. Interesting idea grxjax. I think the biggest concern is that I was using 7mm wide sticks for the stealers in the first layer, effectively allowing me to cover a 14mm wide space. These 2nd layer sticks are only 6mm wide so I don't think copying the pattern is going to work unless I find a way to wedge in a 3rd stick.
  3. I suspect I already know the answer to this but I'll ask anyway. Working on Constructo Enterprise. 1st hull plank layer was done using 2mmx6mm sticks. There were quite a few stealers at the stern in the deadwood area. I used 2mmx7mm for most of those. It's all done and came out OK, now it's time for the 2nd layer. I'm supposed to use 0,5mmx6mm sticks for those. Ridiculously thin for any kind of planking. What I'm wondering is what to do for tapering & shaping? With the first sticks I could whittle down the ends with a knife or even better my thumb planer. None of that is possible with a 0,5 stick. All I can think of is laying a stick down flat and trying to cut with a straight edge. Anyone one of you got better ideas? Also on the stealers, I was using the 2mmx7mm sticks to squeak out a little extra width. They were about full width at one end and tapered down to about 1/2 width at the other end, where they joined up with a 2mmx6mm. So essentially I was making 2 sticks fit into 1 stick. This is going to be made even more difficult given the fact that I don't have any 7mm sticks for the 2nd layer. Only the 6's. So I may need to try a 3 into one.
  4. R.I.P. Captain Bob

    Didn't know him too well, but enough to be saddened by his absence. The internet is a strange beast. We converse with people we will never meet. When those people stop conversing we have no reason why. I felt obligated to track down another member when he stopped posting. Thanks to whoever did so here.
  5. Restoration of Old Model Ship

    I'll disagree with a few and say it may well be a kit. I just finished a 70 year old restore and had many of your questions when I started. Interestingly, your boat while completely different than mine has the same style and feel to it. Even the name plate is similar in design. As mentioned - pictures, pictures, more pictures. Every piece of wood. Every sail. Every rope. From both sides and front and back. You will thank yourself one day. Don't take things apart piece by piece if you can help it. For instance I cut the rat lines (the triangle climbing ropes-catwalk) right at the hull and was able to take out the entire mast with everything still intact. The mast then becomes just one project in many for the restore. Working on items off the boat is a lot easier than on the boat. I was also able to keep much of the original material in place. You will find that modelling ropes made today don't look much like those made years ago so the more original you can reuse the better. The same goes for other materials. Have a look at the structures on deck. Even under the structures. Take them off. I took off a skylight and there was the manufacturers name stamped on the deck. A company out of business for almost 60 years now. But if you find a piece of info like that, Google is your friend. You might even find the same model today on Ebay and now you have spare parts. Save every scrap you remove, cut, sand, etc. It may be just the thing to make a repair somewhere else on the ship. For some reason, many kits back then were of fictitious and fictional boats. Mine came from Treasure Island. Since there was no real model to go by, a lot of artist discretion was used. Does it look like any real boat? Not really. Does it matter? Not really. In my signature there is a link to the restoration build log I kept. It shows a lot of what I am describing here. If you are going to follow thru with a restore I strongly suggest you consider a log. Good luck and enjoy. There will be frustrations, just persist.
  6. Welcome to MSW CJ2S. Something else you will want to be asking is, is there anybody in (nameyourtown) that works on models that might be willing to fix what will hopefully be just a few small breaks? Unless you drive the models home yourself - and maybe not even then - it is inevitable that things will break off, fall off, come untied, scratched, etc. during transport. I have things break off mine just driving 15 minutes to some show. Of course that could also be your opportunity to jump into the hobby and learn what we do here. You won't find a better group than those here to help you out. Make sure you get the display case as well. Depending on your home situation - cats, kids, dust, dirt - the cover will keep the build looking pristine for years to come. You can get them made locally but they range in price from maybe $150 - $500 for one that size. Always keep them covered. BTW I agree with Chris, your dad did a wonderful job with that build. Let us know what you decide.....
  7. I came across these while on a hobby shop shop web site looking for paint. If you just can't stop modelling but want to get away from boats for a bit, these might be just the ticket. They are called rubber powered model airplanes. Yeah, I know a lot of had these as kids - a 1/2" x 1/8" stick for a fuselage, wings from a 1/16" balsa sheet. Well, this isn't Kansas anymore. First off, I have no affiliation with any of the companies. I was out on the MegaHobby web site. The plane kits (that's right kits) I stumbled across are made by Dumas. Yup, same guys that make some of our boat kits. They make about 25 different plane kits - from WWII fighters to bi-planes. The builds are similar to models my father used to describe. You build the fuselage frame, wing frames, landing gear, etc. The materials are all balsa, a lot of it is laser cut sheets. When you're done with that you wrap the frame in tissue paper and apply dope to harden it. There's instructions and a plan sheet. I have been extremely impressed with the fit and finish so far. On par with a lot of the boat kits we work with. And I must say, at times the build has been a real challenge. What more could you ask for? Well, how about these things are actually supposed to fly. It's the same rubber band and propeller arrangement as the toys I had. I'm still building so I can't comment yet on the aeronautical capabilities, but frankly even if it didn't fly the final product is worthy of a spot on a display shelf. I've already ordered several more. These kits may be to intense for kids. On the other hand, each of the various parts are a project unto themselves. So with a little direction you and your kid(s) might manage a build. You could also potentially have some flying competitions when you are done. And the kits are reasonably priced so that you could buy several. Here's the first one I'm building: So far, this project has been a winner. I do modelling projects with some seniors over at an independent living facility. I took the parts you see in the pix over to show the guys. It brought up instant smiles when they saw it. A blast from the past. When, we finish our cross section build, it was fairly unanimous that several of these kits would be the next project.
  8. 11.jpg

    A good build and well taken photos!
  9. What Goes Around Comes Around

    Hispaniola has gone full circle now. Brought her back to her owner (on right) today. He was very pleased. I guess the smile says it all. Not so sure what I can do with the other one. A small scale Constitution. Kind of in the same shape. A few broken pieces but mainly in need of a cleanup. Problem is there's about 4-5 times the rigging on that build. Taking it apart with no instructions - I cringe at the thought.
  10. What Goes Around Comes Around

    Thanks for reading John. I'll let you guys know how it comes out this weekend.
  11. Good morning, 

     

    I have read your tutorial concerning proportional dividers at least a dozen times.  1.  When on some models, there will be a curve to the deck that will cause the center of the deck to be lower than the ends.  How do I handle this?

     

    2.  Should I ignore deadwood areas?  Is there a way to handle this situation?

     

    Thank-you for taking the time to help out.

     

    Chuck

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. achuck49

      achuck49

      I appreciate your rapid response. 

       

      In two or three days I will begin assembling the hull on the Dallas.  I will follow your instructions. 

      Am I correct in the belief that the measurement begin with a straight strange?

       

      Thanks for your time 

       

      Chuck

    3. mikiek

      mikiek

      Chuck - for measuring the frame edges the best method is also the hardest. You'll need to mark where the top edge of the upper most plank will be. Do this on each frame. Then mark where the bottom edge of the bottom most plank will be. This might be a frame or it could be deadwood depending on your build and where the bands end.

       

      Next you need to measure the between the upper and lower mark on each frame. I take a piece of string, put one end on the frame edge at your top mark then run the string down, following the edge, to the lower mark. Do something to notate the bottom spot on the string. Then take the string and stretch it out and measure the distance. Do this for each frame. Note doing this eliminates some (but not all) of the curvature error. Someone the other day used tape instead of string to do this. That might be a good idea just make sure whatever you use stays flush with the frame edge. It's important to get an accurate read for this.

       

      Once you have the total distance for each frame edge, divide that number by the number of bands and you get the width of a band for each frame. If you used tape, you can mark the bands on the tape, put the tape back on the frame edges and then mark the edges. What you want to end up with is something like this

       

      image.thumb.jpeg.00b5be8f9e4ab5181b7eab2ea32cff9b.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.00b5be8f9e4ab5181b7eab2ea32cff9b.jpeg

    4. achuck49

      achuck49

      Understand 

       

      Will leave you alone tonight 

       

      Thanks  so much

  12. What Goes Around Comes Around

    Hey thanks Steven. Good timing. We are going back for lunch this weekend and I will be returning Hispaniola to her original builder. I'll try to remember to take a few pix.
  13. Hi Mark - yes it seems like I am down to the ole finger clamps. I don't know if it's the cold or what - it's about 50F in the shop - but the CA (medium) is not setting even after a few minutes. Hence the need for something to hold the end down for 15-20 minutes while the wood glue sets.
  14. Working on my hull planking. This build is a little different in that it doesn't call for a rabbet. Sure I could have added one. I should have added one. I'm left gluing the tips of planks to the stem & stern and I'm having a tough time getting a clamp to stay put there to hold the plank. It wasn't too bad at first starting at the wale and working down. Now I'm about 2/3 finished and I can't get a clamp to hold in place. A rabbet gave the stick something to bite into, to wedge against. I was hoping some of you might post a pic or two showing how you do it.
  15. Sounds like a plan. Always looking for the proverbial "better mousetrap" Thanks for the feedback. Everything you're describing makes sense.

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