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About mikiek

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  1. A suggestion Tom. Up at the bow be careful of how much you install right now. You still have the bitts and the bowsprit to get into that area and there is no wiggle room for those. Get those in first. Other parts can be placed around them in a pinch.
  2. Ron - it was a crowded ship! 20 guns, 4-5 guys per gun. Just aint no getting around it. There are some things you can do to give the appearance of less crowded/cluttered. Keep loose rope to a minimum is the biggest. If you make coils with the excess they will be lying on the deck - more clutter. Consider frapping - check my log, it's what I did and I personally like the look. The kit supplied blocks look rather bulky also. Your guns look great dont touch them. Remember Niagara was designed to be a small fresh water boat with as many guns as they could possibly cram on deck.
  3. Hey Ron - your mount is correct. A pin in the front (your toothpick) held this style of carriage in place. It also allowed the gun crew to pivot the nade to the port or starboard by pulling the tackle on one side or another. You can actually have that functional on your guns. I have found that people find it interesting to see how that works. The real tackles had a fair amount of excess rope after it is laced thru the blocks. This was normal. When the gun recoils, that excess is shortened as the slide moves backwards. There are several ways to deal with the excess in your build, depending on how you will display the status of your boat. 1. Excess is laid in a flat coil on deck. This was the formal look and typically used during inspections and for visitors. 2. Excess is in a small pile on deck. More typical of a action status, when the gun was in use. 3. Excess is frapped. Used while in transit. The excess is wrapped around the rope that runs between the 2 blocks of the tackle. You will need to decide how you will do it before too long. There are good tricks to use for each method.
  4. Never enough time - why didn't I think of that one? It's good to see this project resurrected Don.
  5. Suggest not permanently fastening the bowspars yet. Once you do she gets rather unwieldy to work with. Don't forget the quions under the gun barrels. If you have something like a 1'x6' board with holes to store and work on the other spars you can make a few holes for the bow spars as well. Personally, I like the look of the hull sticks being somewhat visible so don't fill in too much. If you do have gaps you want to fill try a craft syringe & needle to apply a thin line of white glue down in the gap. Paint over it afterwards. Keep it up Tom.
  6. Ya think she's big now? One thing to think about - as you put masts and especially bow spars in place it gets incredibly hard to turn the boat around on your bench without breaking something. Drill holes for each section of each mast (main, top, top gallant, t.g.royal) for each mast and bow spars. A 1"x6"x18" board with holes drilled in it is great for working with the individual spars and also good for storage when you want that stuff out of the way. If it hasn't been said already rig these spars individually before assembling a mast. I found that I could hang about 80% of the rigging before assembly & installation. The big trick is guesstimating how long some of the ropes should be. Measure, measure again and then add about 15-20%. Warning - you will end up with a huge bowl of spaghetti. This can be mitigated somewhat by taking logical groups of ropes (for instance the t.g.royal port side shrouds) coiling them and then wrap with a piece of masking tape. They still dangle around but they shouldn't get tangled that way.
  7. Hey Tom - with the basswood a lot of people use Golden Oak. With basswood I think it looks real nice. If you want it a little darker then apply 2-3 coats. Keep in mind that stains look and behave differently on different woods. My deck is boxwood and Golden Oak looked dreadful on that. If you want it uniform then use a conditioner/sealer first. Personally I like the blotchiness. I think it adds a weathered look so most times I dont use the sealer. The biggest source of blotches is glue so sand, sand, sand before you stain. As basswood has a tendancy to "shed" hit it last with some very fine sandpaper or steel wool to help remove flakes.
  8. Take care of yourself Simon - the boat isn't going anywhere.
  9. Tom - just my opinion but that early american looks pretty dark for a deck
  10. they call that zip seizing
  11. What a great way to dress that up Frankie. Are you finding the leaf stays put or does it come off easily?
  12. Dang - almost 2 weeks since I posted. I haven't been goofing off - not too much. Came across this game Naval Action a while back. I find it almost mesmerizing and fun to play. A lot of time spent there lately. Work is continuing since the completion of the hull. There are a few deck items and hull trim going in and the next step is the masts. I'm starting the channels and preparing do drill out the holes for the masts. That's always a troubling exercise for me. That and the hawsers. The plans show the main mast at no angle, flush with a frame piece. The foremast is angled although there is nothing stating how much. The manual - " drill mast holes per plan". Well thank you. This kit has had it's ups and downs. I've been shorted several more sizes of sticks but then there will be some good technique for doing something. I'll try to do a short eval when it's all over. Here's a few shots: I did an initial wipe down of the hull with linseed oil but all the pieces added afterwards are still unfinished. Trim at the bow (head). Camera sure makes it look rough. In the plans those rails are set almost 1/2" higher. Way too high. Took them down some. In need of a cleanup for sure! Thanks for reading......
  13. It looks as good as the air brush would have done. Glad you're going with painting it instead of blackening. I think in the long run it's easier. Especially if you have to touch it up after the pieces are in place.
  14. Yupper - pretty big indeed. BUt she's as clean as the day I put her in there. Tom that paint jar concerns me. If you end up needing the paint 6-8 months from now for a last coat or touch or something it could very well be dried up. Seal that lid or look for a better storage jar. The cardboard gaskets don't last long in my experience. These work a lot better.

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