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About mikiek

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  1. What Goes Around Comes Around

    Hispaniola has gone full circle now. Brought her back to her owner (on right) today. He was very pleased. I guess the smile says it all. Not so sure what I can do with the other one. A small scale Constitution. Kind of in the same shape. A few broken pieces but mainly in need of a cleanup. Problem is there's about 4-5 times the rigging on that build. Taking it apart with no instructions - I cringe at the thought.
  2. What Goes Around Comes Around

    Thanks for reading John. I'll let you guys know how it comes out this weekend.
  3. Good morning, 


    I have read your tutorial concerning proportional dividers at least a dozen times.  1.  When on some models, there will be a curve to the deck that will cause the center of the deck to be lower than the ends.  How do I handle this?


    2.  Should I ignore deadwood areas?  Is there a way to handle this situation?


    Thank-you for taking the time to help out.



    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. achuck49


      I appreciate your rapid response. 


      In two or three days I will begin assembling the hull on the Dallas.  I will follow your instructions. 

      Am I correct in the belief that the measurement begin with a straight strange?


      Thanks for your time 



    3. mikiek


      Chuck - for measuring the frame edges the best method is also the hardest. You'll need to mark where the top edge of the upper most plank will be. Do this on each frame. Then mark where the bottom edge of the bottom most plank will be. This might be a frame or it could be deadwood depending on your build and where the bands end.


      Next you need to measure the between the upper and lower mark on each frame. I take a piece of string, put one end on the frame edge at your top mark then run the string down, following the edge, to the lower mark. Do something to notate the bottom spot on the string. Then take the string and stretch it out and measure the distance. Do this for each frame. Note doing this eliminates some (but not all) of the curvature error. Someone the other day used tape instead of string to do this. That might be a good idea just make sure whatever you use stays flush with the frame edge. It's important to get an accurate read for this.


      Once you have the total distance for each frame edge, divide that number by the number of bands and you get the width of a band for each frame. If you used tape, you can mark the bands on the tape, put the tape back on the frame edges and then mark the edges. What you want to end up with is something like this



    4. achuck49




      Will leave you alone tonight 


      Thanks  so much

  4. What Goes Around Comes Around

    Hey thanks Steven. Good timing. We are going back for lunch this weekend and I will be returning Hispaniola to her original builder. I'll try to remember to take a few pix.
  5. Hi Mark - yes it seems like I am down to the ole finger clamps. I don't know if it's the cold or what - it's about 50F in the shop - but the CA (medium) is not setting even after a few minutes. Hence the need for something to hold the end down for 15-20 minutes while the wood glue sets.
  6. Working on my hull planking. This build is a little different in that it doesn't call for a rabbet. Sure I could have added one. I should have added one. I'm left gluing the tips of planks to the stem & stern and I'm having a tough time getting a clamp to stay put there to hold the plank. It wasn't too bad at first starting at the wale and working down. Now I'm about 2/3 finished and I can't get a clamp to hold in place. A rabbet gave the stick something to bite into, to wedge against. I was hoping some of you might post a pic or two showing how you do it.
  7. Sounds like a plan. Always looking for the proverbial "better mousetrap" Thanks for the feedback. Everything you're describing makes sense.
  8. Allen - you are confirming the conclusion I am coming to. There are better choices for planking than walnut. THAT SAID - I do not want to start a debate about that here. I recognize that there are thousands of beautiful builds with walnut planks. Like a lot of what we do, it's just a personal preference thing. I love working with boxwood. Anyone who has followed one of my logs can attest to that. I used it to plank Niagara (and fell in love) but that hull is painted. IMHO it doesn't take a lot of stains very well and it's too lite colored for a walnut replacement. So for that walnut color we all love, I am still looking for an alternative. Kurt - I am going to give your "wet clamped" process a try. Can the drying time be reduced with a hair dryer or heat gun or does that cause too much shrinkage? I'm also curious about gluing while the stick is still wet. I've seen that CA works OK on damp objects. It was mentioned in this thread that PVA can too. Although I imagine the drying time is increased.
  9. Chris - I'm going thru my first experience with nails on another build. Although that one really doesn't need them. This build with the walnut is a single plank and I'm not sure nails are right for that. I've bunged up quite a few with the other build. Left a few marks. vaddoc - you're describing the breakage perfectly. Fibers on one side or one edge start to separate and that's all she wrote. Guess I need to try and understand the grain thing better. Will also be looking for a walnut replacement for future builds. I'm a boxwood biggot at heart, but I do realize there are situations where it doesn't fit well. Jagger - how true!
  10. Hello Mark - thanks for stopping in. This is going to sound strange but similar to what you said - I can feel the brittleness in the sticks. When I'm holding one tight in thumb & forefinger it's real obvious the stress I'm causing applying just a 1/8 rotation twist. With where I am in planking this build I've broken 5 out of 21 sticks. That seems high. Should we keep our wood in a humidor?
  11. The wood I am using now is walnut. I can bend it just fine for the most part and if that's all it needs there's usually no problem. But if I'm planking a bow or stern and the stick (bent or unbent) needs some twist to lay flat on the frames, that's where I'm getting the breakage. Popeye's comment reminded me of something. Totally off topic but I was surprised to learn this - aquarists that maintain plant tanks often fasten plants to a piece of wood or a rock. The recommended way to do this is with CA. And the surfaces don't have to be dry for this to work. I was surprised about the dryness thing but it seems to be true. You just have to hold it in place for about a minute. I also would have figured CA to be toxic in an aquarium but apparently it isn't. FWIW.
  12. OK Chris - a couple of follow ups: 1. What style clamps do you use? 2. How do you manage multiple wet strakes? If leaving overnight is required (and I get that) I would definitely want to put down multiple strakes in one sitting. Otherwise it could be 4-6 weeks at one strake per evening.
  13. We all have to bend planks once in a while. While there are several ways to do it the common denominator seems to be adding moisture to the wood. Soaking it, steaming it, whatever. The wood softens up from moisture, we bend it, let it dry out, then glue it. At least that's what I've always done. While this will shape the stick, once it dries you've got a bent stick that is just about as brittle as it was before bending it. If you still have to put a little twist in it while gluing it is about as likely to break as before. Lately I've read a few comments that almost sound like the builder does the soaking and bending and then glues the strake while it is still damp. Am I totally misunderstanding or is this possible? If it is possible what glue is used? I suppose you would now have to wait for the glue and the stick to dry before moving on. How do you manage shrinkage?
  14. So what happens if I make a comment in someone feed?

  15. What Goes Around Comes Around

    Thanks for reading Druxey. It still kinda blows my mind to think about it.