mikiek

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  1. Dave - re your question. I've found that sometimes I have to to some sort of action to make the software "think" I have read earlier posts. Something like click on the thread or click to go to the next page. Also, if you haven't seen it, on the Content I Follow page there's a heading bar about 1/3 from the top. There's a column called Read Status. Click the little down arrow to the right and check out those options. It works for me. The bad part is the options are not saved so every time you go to Content I Follow I have to reset it.
  2. It sure is tight Mark. I suppose it would make a difference whether they used that center beam to get from bow to stern. I imagine they would or else just stay put. No wonder no one wanted to crew these things.
  3. Matt - I agree with Steve. If at all possible, pull the stern post and make the right sized one.
  4. Glad you straightened me out. I didn't realize that was a drilled out rod. Probably even better. It would have been difficult to find various sizes of tubing.
  5. I took the one shroud that I made and put it on the main port side and it looks like they will be fine Touching slightly but not enough to put a bend in the shroud. However Darrell said the clearance was worse on the fore. I need to make another webbing thing for the forward port.
  6. Fantastic Don - What a good process. Looks like you can get very consistent output like that. That's always my downfall. Nice looking hooks but no two are the same size. What was the size of the tubing you used? Looks like the tube ID needs to be about the same as the OD of the bit?
  7. Good idea Joel. I imagine I will need to do something. That might also cut down on the number of hammocks I have to make Paul - I appreciate that. The guns were quite an adventure.
  8. My first attempt at the hammock stowage. The stanchions were glued to the hand rail yesterday. Today it was time to add the webbing and top rail. Here's that - I explained it in a previous post. So when I made the stanchions (another previous post) I put a slight "lip" at the top of the uprights. You can see it in the first pic. Under that lip is where the top rail is glued, making sure that the side of the rail that has the webbing glued to it faces the inside of the stanchion. Then I glued the other rail. Push the webbing down in between the uprights, add hammocks and there it is. I'll stretch a line across the uprights below the top rail - like I did in the prototype (still another previous post). You better duck now - looks like that carronade has a bead on you
  9. Don - if you have time some pix would be great. I'm about to start rigging Arrow and there are calls for hooks and of course none supplied.
  10. Good luck with the burns. They give me a devil of a time.
  11. The problem is if you use glue on your hull, when you go to stain/varnish it the glue doesn't take like the raw wood right next to it and you end up with spots. This might give you some ideas.
  12. I forgot to mention I did order some 1:24 model car tires to tie on around the sides. Should be a nice feature.
  13. Right Steve - she's been collecting too much dust and dead bugs in the garage
  14. It does Don. However having no experience with sails myself, I have no idea whether they are any good or not. Will have to research sail making when I get to that point.
  15. Looks really sharp Don. How does the kit rope compare to Syren? How do you use the hook tool?