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Everything posted by mikiek
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Onwards thru the fog. Still haven't figured out all the mis-numbering of the bucket disks. Thanks to Paul's log I did see that a bucket bottom has 2 disks. One is solid. The other has a square cutout in the center for the support beam. Both are the same size. I assume that is the same pattern for the upper disks, although I see no need for the solid disk. The upper disk will be painted black and that provides enough cover for the support beam. The first bucket I made is stained rather than painted red. I think I prefer that look. Finished a few of the gun tools. I've hung the table and glued down the benches. However after seeing the pic, I will have to shorten the loop a little. Thanks to Joel's notes, I decided to go back and add the lining to the gun ports. I was going to just paint it all red, now I will probably stain it some dirty wood color. I do like the lining - it adds a bit of detail.
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Thanks Pete - always looking to add to the library. I'll take a look at it.
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OK - I'm stumped. I was going to start making the buckets in between other things. There's a wood sheet with a bunch of disks on it - the tops & bottoms. The sheet parts are not numbered, but there is a page in the back of the instructions that shows the sheet with disks numbered. One big problem - the disk numbers called for in the plans do not match the numbers in the instructions.
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Haven't heard of the Goodwin book. Wonder why Panart made the lids so thick?
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Brian - I have this one on the shelf. Going from 2 masts to 3? Easier? I wasn't clear on your deck issue. Is the false deck still glued down or did you tear it out? If it's just a dip in one place you could smooth out some filler over it? I had an issue with my Enterprise build - the bulkheads had a slope from the center outwards as would be expected. The false deck had none so it didn't sit flush. I ended up gluing the deck down - with CA - bulkhead by bulkhead and holding in place until the CA set. My point is you can use the CA almost like nails. Eventually any 2 pieces will stick together. Then reinforce with PVA along the joints.
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Time to resurrect this project!!! While I am debating with myself over rigging Niagara, I hate losing build time. No rigging here so no excuses. It's been so long I forgot where I was. In our last episode, I was building a gun so that I could get the ports positioned properly. Finished one gun, I think it came out pretty nice although the quion looks a little big. I've also finished the ports and doors. As Bob said, when made per the instructions those doors are quite thick. I went ahead and did them that way. The problem becomes how they fit into the port when they are hinged. I ended up sanding a lot off the bottom of the doors and angled that surface a bit as well. They look a little funky when closed, but I plan to leave them open for display. The overall color scheme appears uncertain in the kit. Different pics show different colors for the same items. I needed to paint the supports so I made an executive decision to go with what Tamiya calls Wooden Deck Tan. Here's the first pass, it'll need a second coat. Ever since the start of this build I've been paranoid about trying to get big fat hands inside and under the support pieces. And now that is coming into play. The instructions seem rather hodge-podge in the order of things - placing some items near the outside and then telling you to do something inside of that.. Instead, I've taken the approach of working from the inside out. So dead center inside is the hanging table and benches. I put those together this evening. Instructions call for 2mm x 8mm walnut planks for this. I couldn't find any in the kit but there were some limewood of that size. I believe those will be used for the upper deck but I used a few for the table and benches. Then stained them a dirty brown. I'll need to finish painting the supports before installing them. I made one mistake and glued the support knees in place before drilling a hole in the center knee. The hole is for a pin that is inserted into the back edge of the table and on into the knee. Trying to get a pin vise with bit in there now will be a challenge and the hole will not be square to the knee but no one but me and you will ever know It was really fun getting back to this kit. Working with the wood and solving those type of problems is what I enjoy most in this hobby!
- 143 replies
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Well I have a start on Constructo Enterprise but I expect the same rigging issues there. I am also building a PanArt Gunnery Station Cross Section (no rigging required). But for a serious build I have 2 kits that have the lateen sails. The triangular fore to aft type. The rigging is very simple - Amati Galley Arrow or Occre Cazador. Both are interesting departures from the square rigged builds. Ya know some times I feel like I'm wimping out by not rigging Niagara. Other times I really like the look with no strings on it. I've been trying to figure out how to turn it into the Admiralty style look.
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Don't blame you regarding the rigging Brian. I'm probably going to do the same thing.
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Hey Darrell - re: sewing up the lanyards - did you find that your deadeyes ended up fairly horizontal to each other? Curious if you had to tighten some & loosen others to get them to line up. I'm not at that point, but I can already see that some of the upper deadeyes will not be all be on the same plane without some trickery.
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Your color scheme is gorgeous - the copper with that darkened wood. This guy is going to display so well. Do you know where you will put it?
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Those bow spars are your best work to date Darrell. Looks great! Your vise and clamp for a third hand is a great idea. Very stable. I have one of those things with 2 alligator clips that can bend all over the place and it never stays put. Plus you can't stick it right in the middle of things.
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Thank you Darrell. I like the idea of the vise and clamps extending all the way to the boat. That's one thing my workbench is lacking. I have just a small area where I can securely clamp my vise and it's way down at the end. Actually on the far side of the new storage modules. I need to see what I can do to get the vise back on the playing field.
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Always a scary thing - cutting holes in your boat. Would not have thought to use an end mill with a hand tool. Of course at the stage you are at, what else are you going to do? I'll have to try that.
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Either that or too much wasted material. Somewhere I did see a tutorial on making an eyesplice (modeling sized) The guy unraveled the last 2" of a piece of rope (3 stranded) and then proceeded to thread a needle with a strand and run the needle back thru the rope to make the loop. He did that with each strand. The result was very nice, and I believe almost like a real eyesplice, but I would like to finish my build in the next year or so. He also cut off the strands after they came thru the rope so for a 1/16 eyesplice you throw away 2" of rope. For my pendants, I did use the same styrene tubing I used for the bullseyes - it's in one of my pix. It's probably a little oversized but I'll live with it.
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At least as good as you are going to get at 1:64 . Have you seen how they do a real eye splice? Not even going there.
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OK - that makes things look a little easier! Was trying to picture myself doing that and it seemed a bit awkward. I'll reverse your images from now on
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That's what I had in mind. Nice pendants. Did you seize a thimble or bullseye or just do an eyesplice?
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If you don't mind, I would appreciate a pic when you get a chance. For the second seizing, do you just pull the deadeye further out from the black clamp?
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From what I have read, real shrouds would be strung on alternating sides. For our models it probably doesn't matter structurally but I suspect visually it does. All the starboard shrouds looped around the mast head then all the port loops on top of that might look odd.
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Good advice Darrell. At the moment nothing is permanent. It's a good thing too. After doing the last shroud on the starboard main channel, I got one of those sick in your stomach moments when I remembered I should be alternating starboard - port. But given that I can still take it all off, I don't think it matters
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That's exciting Darrell What are the 2 tools (clamps) in your pix?
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Thank you gentlemen. Like I said, it may or may not be what you want. It was somewhat time consuming, but for me it was a good option. Another thing to put in your bag of tricks.
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