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About tkay11

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    Kentish Town, London, UK

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  1. I like transferring plans to CAD and then working from the drawings that result. This allows for easy checking of consistency on the plans as well as easy changing of the scale. But this habit made me highly aware of the problem you raise. When working from the printed plans, I've seen that all builders have worked to the outside edge of the line, and this is what I do when tracing with CAD. The lines on the plans are (I seem to remember) about 0.3mm thick, which, at 1:48, means .59" or 14.9mm at full size -- so there's plenty of room for error creep if even larger scales are used. At 1:48 the errors are within a scalpel cut of each other, or a swipe of a file, so mostly not that noticeable. As you say, though, there are lots of ways to fix the errors or just ignore them as they occur. It's been pointed out to me several times that a key question is whether you can see or notice the difference. If the errors are consistent, you might end up with a longer or shorter model than expected, but as long as you compensate and use the same amount of error for the other parts, then you just end up with a model with a slightly different scale to the one you expected. I don't think that answers your question but at least you know someone else has grappled with the problem! Tony
  2. Now I'm jealous! Lovely work again! Tony
  3. Well, if I carry it in person, might be a good opportunity to learn some of your skills. Tony
  4. Very nice. That's really useful stuff. And useful hands as well. There's a story told to me by my son (who's a cellist). Apparently Jascha Haifetz was approached after a concert by an eager fan, who said to him "That violin makes a beautiful sound". Haifetz looked slightly puzzled, held the violin up to his ear, shook it a bit and then said "That's funny, I can't hear anything". Tony
  5. Thanks to those who've added their appreciations with the 'like' button. I'm still thinking about the mounting board because my wife doesn't want me to throw it away just yet. In fact I've been thinking it might be a useful source for bits and pieces in a future build -- a kind of formed scrap box. A bit like people did with Egyptian tombs, ancient Rome and temple sites around the world. In the end also a bit like us as we're de-structured for our atoms and genes for future generations and other animal or plant life. I'm beginning to quite like this re-cycling idea. Tony
  6. Thanks for the info, Dave. That must be recent as I check quite regularly. Anyway, that's great news! Tony
  7. Thanks, Dave, Dirk and all the 'likes'. It's been an enjoyable journey, with lots of learning. Those who designed it really did have the learner in mind. So even though my own build is really basic, it will allow me to take on a new build with more confidence about the basics. That's the real value of this Triton cross-section. It's a pity that it's been closed to new builds because I can't think of anything similar that has been so well designed with such a lot of support that's also free (apart from the wood, of course!). The other aspect is that as it is clearly aimed at the learner (although some have made it into a something much more professional), I had a great time fixing mistakes which, on a more serious build, would have caused me much more grief. I'll state my view yet again that it was not a good idea to close the build for new learners. The plans are out there, so I can't see the gain in closing the build. If the plans continue to be available here for free, people are surely going to come here in preference to buying them. Congratulations yet again to those who designed this cross-section but please re-consider the closure of the build to others! Tony
  8. SKID BEAMS AND THOSE LITTLE BITS AT THE TOP I then glued the brackets to the knees with quick-drying epoxy using the pins previously mentioned. I held the skid beams in the brackets (to ensure alignment), and, when the brackets had dried, glued in the skid beams. By the way, you'll note that I'm leaving all the wood unstained and unpainted. This is quite deliberate, as I rather like the plain look. However, I have used my home-made varnish (mineral spirits, polyurethane varnish, linseed oil) to coat all the wood parts. I may have to give a second coat (some of the pictures show the patchiness), but I'm showing it in the current state. I added a sheer rail to the top of the rearmost frame but remain dissatisfied with the look of it. I’ll remain dissatisfied because I’m not going to change it! I’ll have a think about mounting it on a board, but as we may be selling our house soon, am not sure when I’ll be able to do it. Tony
  9. ENTRY STEPS AND FENDERS Now that I’m used to making a moulding, I cut the shapes for the steps in a hacksaw blade and made the long outline of the entry steps. After cutting the length, I shaped the sides first by cutting down with a fine saw, then using the saw cut as a base to file away the upper and lower edges of the steps. The fenders were then cut out but I cursed the fact that I had added the sheer rail as cutting the spaces out for the fenders really was fairly tricky. Tony
  10. GANGWAY I thought the best way to make the gangway would be to make the entire section separately and then lay it on top of the knees. The tricky part would be to make the curved sections in the middle – which I did by making a template for these. I then used templates to shape the gangway planks The key to the structure is the first long gangway plank, which, when glued to the longer section of the gangway edge, provides the reference for the remainder of the planking and the edges. The parts were then all glued together and the edges of the gangway sanded with the Proxxon sanding machine. Tony
  11. GANGWAY KNEES I bought two copper plates, 1.9mm and 1.3mm thick, so that I could use Grant’s idea [] of cutting the knees from plate instead of constructing them from wood or brass strip. In order to allow for differences between the plans and the build, I made extra room on the templates for the junction between knee and ceiling. I thought it would be a good idea to fix the knees with brass nails. However, later, when it came to fixing them to the ceiling, I found it easier to file them off and glue the knees with rapid epoxy. Grant decided to keep the tops of his fore knees without the small ledges to hold the brackets. I assume he did this so that it would be easier to solder on the brackets for the skid beams. However, the ledge allows for the fact that the bracket edges up to the gangway planking. At first I thought I’d drill holes in the ledges and then fix copper brackets to them with nails and solder that way. However, I then thought of another way of fixing the brackets as I thought that making the brackets with copper or brass was not at all straightforward. This involved milling out a square section of pear, as you’ll see in the following photos. When fitting the brackets, I found myself really liking the fact that I could use my holding jig to keep the section on its side. I then finished off the brackets by drilling holes in their bases to hold the pins that would tie them to the knees, drilling holes in the sides to hold false pins for the skid beams (to give the appearance that they run through the beams) and painting them black to match the knees. Next up: the gangway, entry steps and fenders. Tony
  12. It's worth looking at Geert's build of the Ostend shrimper. I would imagine the framing is very similar. The other source for framing is March's book on Sailing Trawlers, which has small plans and lots of details about the boats. Tony
  13. Photos? Well, I may take a few, just a few! Finsbury Park? That's like, oh, like the other side of the world! I'll be looking forward to our builds. Tony
  14. Thanks, Keith. I've seen the site, and been through their material which I agree is valuable. I plan to go down to Brixham in June and have a trip on the Trinity. Tony