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tkay11

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  1. Just a note about CS6 and new cameras: although Adobe RAW is not updated any more for CS6, you can use the DNG converter for it (produced by Adobe) which is regularly updated for all cameras. All you have to do is run your RAW picture through the DNG converter, then you can load the DNG file into CS6. However, as Gaetan says, the results are always depending on the viewer's taste. Tony
  2. I have a Taig lathe which seems to me to be accurate enough for my purposes, and second-hand (together with a large number of tools and accessories) it was not much more than one of these new Unimat machines. So the best option may be to seek out used machines that have been well looked after if you want to save money. Tony
  3. Thanks for the clarification about Mike's speciality, Greg. I use an old hairdryer. But I have an old heat gun, so I'll try that. Tony
  4. Yes, he does quite a lot that could be in the 'don't try this at home' category. His use of the table saw, for example. But as a surgeon he's used to being supremely confident with his risks which you can reckon he's worked at perfecting. At least I think he's a surgeon. I always enjoy watching different styles and approaches to model ship builds which demonstrate the wide range of imagination and thinking that can be applied to the same situation. He's also good at adapting his tools. Once I can start modelling again (hoping for August) I'll certainly go back to some of the videos for stimulation but I won't try the toaster idea as I can use other sources of heat. Tony
  5. I deleted the Dropbox files of the translations and complete links of Mike's YouTube videos some time ago. However, following a pm from another member, I have reposted them in Dropbox at: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7lql7kn7vrz8ted/AABxuBO1WfPmefnzPN9aHx3ha?dl=0 Tony
  6. Congratulations! It's a great feeling to have finished! Tony
  7. tkay11

    Making planks from Raw wood

    On my browser it says 'sorry this video does not exist' in the place where the video should be. Tony
  8. One problem may be the potential for piracy as this would mean that you could download or copy such plans. It's great that Ed Tosti has been able to provide 2D frame plans on CD for the Naiad, but there don't seem to be many that are prepared to do this, . So for me it's not just having 3D plans that would be useful. I'd love a solution to the provision of 2D plans on CD because I find the business of undoing the distortions caused by photocopying (for cutting frames, for example) to be a real hassle. Tony
  9. There are plenty of references to rudder coats and how to make them on several of the builds, including the Sherbourne. It's true they're not seen on some contemporary models, but they are there on others, and referred to in the books. Dan Vadas made a lovely one on his frigate, as did Dirk on his Sherbourne, and I explained how I made my own lesser contribution in my Sherbourne log here. Tony
  10. Tying the lanyards is well explained on the plans, but it will help to look at the other logs. The hull looks very nicely finished. Tony
  11. Lovely work, Chuck. Are you going to have a horse for the foresail? Just interested! Tony
  12. I think it's entirely up to you. The original NMM plans of the Sherbourne/Sherborn seem to suggest the transom is both raised above the rail and wider (overlapping) so most people have gone with a form that shows that, with or without a rail on top or on the top and sides. Have a look at all the various pictures and models of cutters. There's so much variability that you have a lot to choose from. Here's the link to the pictures I took at the National Maritime Museum at Chatham. There are also hundreds of pictures and several models if you look at the NMM website. I think Chuck also has links to cutter models in the US museums, or should we say musea? (I've forgotten my Latin). Tony
  13. Hi Tony!

     

    As you may know, I'm starting the Triton cross section in 1/24 scale:  a scale that introduces a lot of problems in terms of scaling.  For example, the layout lines for the parts and the profile views etc. are about 1/32" thick, leading to a lot of potential error especially in terms of room and space layout of the frames on the keel.  What I'm hoping for is that you can help me out with some pointers in building the jig to construct the model.  How do I size the upper portion, with the cutouts for the frames, given that the frames are curved?  How do I account for the slight curvature of the frames moving aft in the plan view?  How do I keep consistent space bewtween fromes, given the thickness of the layout lines?

     

    I'm almost thinking of not using the 2 tiered jig you and others have employed. Instead I'd set the first frame on the keel, use a standard precut spacer for the space between it and the second frame, then set the second frame.  Using the standard spacer again, I'd set the third frame and so on.  I would need to make a right angle jig to keep the frames square to the keel and their tops level, but I could avoid the upper tier of the jig.  What do you think?  Any advice or tips?  Thanks so much for any help you can lend!

     

    PS:  Thanks for your superb build log and model.  I really enjoyed it.

    1. tkay11

      tkay11

      I don't know why you can't access me through PM, unless the box is full or something. I'll have to figure it out.

      Building the jig was easy, I just set the height for the widest part of the cross-section -- i.e. the widest frame at it's widest height. I then measured the widths of all the frames at that height and printed the plan with all the frame markings. I put this on a sheet of plywood and cut out the part that would hold the frame. I then aligned that very carefully with the frame layout on the base, as you should see from my log, and drilled holes for the bolts through both pieces whilst still aligned. I then set the height for the cutout by placing the holding nuts at the right height.

      For consistent spacing, as you might seen from my log, my cutout was such that it had indents for each frame, so the indents acted as spacers. In terms of measurement, it's a question of consistency as to where you take the measurements from. In general I think the safest is to use the outside of the line, but that varies with the situation. Sometimes I use the middle -- e.g. between planks.

      The other method you propose of having a movable jig with set squares is possibly the more common method, and is one that is also used when making longer models of the full ship. It looks good to me, but for my particular purpose with the cross-section, I thought the jig method would be simplest.

      I'm always happy to help, so don't worry about pestering me!

      Tony

    2. DocBlake

      DocBlake

      Thanks, Tony!  That helps a lot.  Let me think about this a bit more.  I really did enjoy your build, and it will be a huge help to me going forward with mine.  Thanks again!

       

      Dave

    3. tkay11

      tkay11

      That's OK. I've emptied out my mail box now. It was full, so that should fix the problem with sending me PMs.

       

      Tony

  14. Thanks everyone! I haven't had a problem for two days now, so I think there must have been some maintenance issue in one of the pipelines somewhere. The odd thing is the problem was only with the MSW site, and no other. The ways of the internet are strange, as the bishop said to someone or other. Tony
  15. Thanks, James. I'm not sure what else you'd want apart from the results of the ping and tracert that I've posted. Otherwise I just get a blank screen on the browser followed by 'connection timed out' when the connection is not going through, whilst I get the normal screen when I connect to MSW. Tony

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