• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Johnnymike

  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Chicago, IL US

Recent Profile Visitors

188 profile views
  1. Thanks Eddie mate. Got it. It works. JMS
  2. I am a real novice when it comes to taking pictures and posting them so I have a simple question. When I try to post a picture on this site I always get the message it is to large to post. The only way I know to get it to stick is to crop it down which often means it is so selective that it does not "show the whole story". Is there any way to reduce the picture quality so I can show the whole subject? JMS
  3. vossiewulf I guess different things work for different people. I tried a hair dryer and even a heat gun. It was much slower and more cumbersome than steam. And most importantly it did not impart nearly the flexibility into the wood. Just my observation. JMS
  4. allanyed I would recommend trying steam based on what I have experienced. For me nothing else is even close. And I started bending wood when everyone was recommending using ammonia and water. But be cautious because steam is really hot, obviously, and it also makes the steam chamber and the part you are heating get pretty hot also. I would never use a sealed container either because of the pressure. Steam is great but you have to respect it. Some expansion must occur in the wood but I have used it on four builds now and have never found it to be an issue. I have only used it for walnut and it does not soften the wood enough to be detrimental in any way. For my hull work I use a PVA glue and like to leave it set out for a short time to get a little heavy and never had an issue. I am now bending 1.5 mm x 6 mm walnut which is the heaviest I have bent but I would not hesitate to try it on heavier cross sectional area wood. JMS
  5. I started this topic a while ago but as I wanted to find the best way of bending wood, for me. I could see that there are many different methods and although steam worked best for me at that time I am always interested in searching for a better way to do things. So for the last few months I purchased a few different heating irons, tried soaking only, used crimping tools and tried heat guns. For me steam is by far the quickest, easiest method and allows the best complex bends. I am working on the Batavia by Kolderstok and I need to bend 1mm x 6mm walnut planking around the bow to the stern. This is a fairly tight bend with a cross grain twist that leads into a longitudinal sweep up with a slight twist. I tried everything and went back to steam with excellent results. After only 5 minutes in full temperature steam I could take a straight piece of walnut and bend it by hand to the final shape on the hull gluing it into place completely at one time easily. I did not have to fight with the wood at all. As they say, your results may vary but for me steam is by far the best way to bend wood. JMS
  6. Thanks I guess I will stick with Tightbond.
  7. Through some contacts I have determined this is an adhesive I want to use. Does anyone know a US source for purchasing it? JMS
  8. Has anyone used UHU Hart glue. It's seems to be the wood glue to use everywhere but the USA? I can't even seem to find a US supply. JMS
  9. Thanks for the information. I think I have been doing the cutouts about how most do it. I just need to refine my technique and the template is a good idea. However, I just watched episode 13 of the video that Ulises suggested and that is what I will do on my current build. Take a look. JMS
  10. I have decided to build the Batavia by Kolderstok. I just jumped over here from another vine I started about being not completely satisfied with my build quality. One area I would like to improve is the precision and consistency in which to cut the gun port openings in a 17th century Dutch ship. I have done the Prins Willem already but not to my satisfaction. I am looking for any tips or tricks to get a precise cutout of the hull with sharp corners and clean lines. Maybe I just don't have the talent to get what I want but any tips would be helpful. Thank you JMS
  11. Jan Thanks for the comment it means a lot to me. I have followed your build of the Willem for a long time. Even before you lost your first vine. Watching your work progress makes my work seemed second rate. VOC ships seem to be my passion but I don't have anywhere the knowledge or skill you and others have and it is kind of discouraging some time. I don't feel it would really be of any ones interest to see one of my builds especially after following Danny on Thanks for the incite however and please keep posting as I will continue to follow yours. JMS
  12. Thank you all for your comments. I have read them all carefully and I have to say I can not disagree with any of them. I think the old adage "cant see the forest for the trees" applies to me here. I started to get so entangled in the details I was missing the solution. It is so true what you all said and I could hardly believe how it exactly matched my experience. "ratlines are over scale" Rubbing alcohol is your friend (so is 12 year old scotch) "The next one will be better" I am 100% confident that the next will be better I would start another project. will never see the imperfections or comment on them if they do so long as YOU don't point them out. If I could have recovered (and today, I think I could) I would have. are you certain that your simply not getting bored with it? that would be the more logical reason why you'd want to start another kit I have developed enough to complete her after working on several smaller projects and putting my self through what I call practice runs always think I want to go back and complete it but I don't really want to take it apart/fix the issues. All of the above completely describes my conundrum to a 'tee". I am going to put aside the Willem for now. After all the hull is complete and in my eyes it is a handsome model as is. I have the Batavia by Kolderstok ready to start. And I am confident I can do a top notch build. Thanks to all JMS
  13. I have been working along on the Prins Willem by Corel for some time now. I have completed the hull and just finished the ratlines. Now I am starting the standing rigging. I have done an adiquate build job but the other day I took a close look and realized that just building this ship so far has improved my skill level tremendously. So I decided to go back and redo or rework some things. As I started I saw more and more areas I could improve and it got to the point that I wished I could start over again. I still have a ways to go to finish the ship but I don't know if I want to. I can continue on to the finish, go back and spend a lot of time and effort on rework or put it aside and start a new project. Am I nuts or do others experience this also. JMS
  14. I would like to thank every one for their comments and I am happy that this idea was received so positively. It truly was a great help to me. An interesting thing has happened to me and it brings to mind the old saying "practice makes perfect". As I continued to tie the fair amount of rat lines on my project I felt as though my skills were improving. I am nearing the end and almost at the top of the mast's now and it became a little cumbersome to use the guide so I started to try to tie the rat lines without it. I found out I do not need the guide anymore and can tie a good rat line by eye. Maybe being at the top where there are fewer knots per line is somewhat easier but I believe I might not need the stretcher for the next project. I also found that by putting a very small drop of CA on each knot it wicks into the line by the knot slightly and with some gentle downward force with my tweezers on each line between the knots I can achieve a nice gentle and consistent droop to mimic the way an actual rat line looks. I really like the results and will continue this method of finishing off the standing rigging. JMS
  15. Being fairly new to tall ship modeling I don't have some of the building skills that are achieved by years of experience so try to come up with ways to assist myself. This idea may be common knowledge to some but for me it was something I cam up with to help space dead eyes consistently. I can do this without this tool but I found myself fumbling around and only achieving spacing that was close but not visibly as good as I wanted. The pictures tell the story. This works for me and may be of some help to others. JMS