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TomShipModel

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  1. Thank for this information. The kit arrived about an hour ago. There was a hole punched in the lid but everything was clean inside. This is the 2020 upgraded kit and most of the sprues look go with no flash at all. The plate overlaps on the hull look a bit rounded. I will look for the Entrex kit at Mosquitocon in April. If it isn't there, I'll go with what I have. I will be sure to get the brass masts. I was going to scratch build them but that saves me quite a bit of work. I've read in several places that the yellow stripe at the sheer between the black and white on the hull has been impossible to mask because of the plating. I was going to experiment with liquid mast and air brushing instead of brushing. The kit that just arrived has a segmented water slide decal for the stripe. Let's see how it goes.
  2. Thank you, Chris, I did a little more research and was able to get the timeline for this kit. You are correct about it. The first version was in 1978 by Entrex. The same kit was marketed by Academy and then Minicraft with three different releases, the last two to update the kit based on new information. There is yet another release, but that released it as the near sister Olympic. 1:350 is the scale that I want so this will be it. There are no fewer than seven photoecth sprues available for 1:350 from Toms Model Works as well as wood deck. I found a few reviews saying that the older molds are a bit "tired" so some of the casting isn't very crisp. I both the deluxe kit (the latest one). I'll see if the main parts are decent. If not, I will look for an old kit and use it for the parts that didn't change over the several releases. There is Mosquitocon 2022 on April 2, so I can check then as there are hundreds of resell kits available there. If you are near Wayne NJ, it is put on by IPMS. Not too many ships, but literally almost 1000 models and plenty of vendors so you can enjoy beautifully detailed plastic models and impulse buy to your hearts content, Thanks for your help.
  3. When you smooth out the wrinkles you need to be very gentle. You can lift one end of the sheet and then carefully lower it smoothing as you go. Yoiu will surprise yourself with your resut.
  4. The loops in the corners are called clews. On larger sails, there are attachment points for things like reef tackle and bunt lines. They are called cringles.
  5. I just read your last post! Sorry for being late here. Yes, silk span is very delicate when wet. I lay the wetted sheet on glass. I press out the wrinkles with my fingers. The key is to lay the silk span from one side and spread it out as you lay it down. It is a bit trickier for the subsequent layers, but, with patience, you will get it done. When you lift all the layers off the glass you need to delicately lift from on corner and peel the sheet from the glass.
  6. Good morning. It has been a very busy time over the last few weeks and I'm finally able to get caught up. I was looking for photos of the sails before I furled them and they are already in this thread. Here is the mainsail before the sail is attached to the gaff. Note how the seams fan out and that there are two parallel lines for each seam. Earlier in this thread are a few photographs of the triangular sails. Don't be shocked, it all works out after you furl them.
  7. The 'dotted line" is a hidden line that represents the other "hidden" side of the sail. The tabling seams are folded over with the edge on one side of the sail about 2" offset from the seam on the front. So, when you draw seams hey are solid pencil lines. When you lay one piece on top of the other the lines are offset to show two parallel seams. The bolt rope was sewed to the edge of the sail on the overlapped leech. You are correct that the outside sheets of silk span are a bit larger to account for the overlap. In smaller scales I do overlap silk span over the bolt rope however, this is a expedient method that you might not get away with at 1:24 scale. Even at 1:24, a sewing line would be way out of scale. So, I glued the bolt rope. The trick is to not undo the glue when the sail is wetted to be furled. It is very tricky to not let the bolt rope get too wet when you are furling the sail as the bolt rope coming loose is a real pain (I've been there). I'm looking for pictures.
  8. The bolt rope should be size 1 1/2" or 2". The size of rope is circumference so divide 3.14 to get full size diameter. On a prototype sail of the period, the head rope was a bit larger than the rest of the bolt rope. For the model, you won't see the difference. For the main sail, I went all around. On square sails I usually leave off a short part of the rope on the sides to make furling easier as much of the rope is hidden anyway. I made my sails for 1:24 scale sails out of four plies. The center two have the seams penciled on offset from each other by about 2". The center two plies are sandwiched between. I will look for a few photographs of the triangular sails. Tom
  9. Happy New Year and thank you for the kind words. On the mainsail, the seams between the tablings run across the gaff and then down the fore leech. Then, all of the seams go to the foot of the sail. The total of the spaces is equally spaced along the bottom of the sail. The spacing between the seams at the foot of the sail is as it would be on the full sail. The spacing at the gaff is the same as the full size sail. The space between the seams on the fore leech of the sail will be shortened the same percentage that you used to shorten the sail. For the case that you have, 50%. So, when you draw the seams they will be at a steeper angle as the seams go forward. It would be easier to show you, but I think that is what you've done already. All of this said, the amount of furling that you do will hide most of the seams anyway. Happy Modeling, Tom
  10. Eric brought the model to our SMSNJ meeting last night. It looks even better up close. He has done an excellent job with the hull rework and it is proceeding nicely. Tom
  11. An FYI, that all of those plans in the Chappelle books are available from the Smithsonian History Museum. The book with the fold outs plans is the edition to have. That said, if you want a plan, usually in 1:48, it will take some time, but I think tha they are still available. Tom
  12. The Northeast Joint Clubs meeting was yesterday. About 100 models were on display, 48 of which were entered into the Jim Roberts Competition. These were generally fantastic models. I'm sure that everyone who follows this build load would want to know that HMS Leopard won the Jim Roberts Award at the meeting. This competition is sponsored by the Ship Model Society of New Jersey (SMSNJ). The Jim Roberts Award was created in memory of Jim Roberts, one of the founders of the Ship Model Society of New Jersey (then the Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey). As a modeler, Jim was noted for craftsmanship, beauty, and attention to detail of this models. The criteria for this award are designed to identify the model that best exemplifies the standards to which Jim aspired. It is a judged competition and a judge is provided from each of the five clubs that form the conference. The Leopard also took the first place award in the Sail Category of the Peoples Choice. Congratulates Tom on a truly beautiful model that was up against very stiff competition. Tom Ruggiero
  13. Eric, Terrible that the flood did this. I hope that you can dry out and recover most of what was damaged. Tom
  14. This is a great looking model. It will be good to see it in person.
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