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Ray1981

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About Ray1981

  • Birthday 11/06/1981

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Itatiba, SP, Brazil
  • Interests
    Music, Guitars, Electronics, scale modeling

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  1. Hey Lukas, I will make some pictures tomorrow and post them. I rigged all the guns with less rope as Mark suggested so now its time for the next step. Thanks for asking
  2. All I can say is go for it!!! I have the Le Glorieux which is about the same and it is a real fun kit to built. Grtz Ray
  3. Hi Fellow Ship Modellers, Today again a bussy day in the morning I stasrted with painting the two other decks and because I actually liked the result as in previous post I applied the same technique After this job I started to glue the hull and lower gun deck After this job I have waited for several hours to be sure everything has dried and the hull stays in form. On the keel I applied some putty and Mr Surface 1200 so this will look like one solid piece ( I hope) And than after some hours I started with gueling and rigging some canons. Well this is going to be a nasty job. I have mounted eyelets allready before I glued the hull and glued the lower gun deck. So first of all it is quiet a difficult job to glue the deck without distroying the eyelets. But this job was possible with only two eyelts broken (I replaced them allready). Than as mentioned I glued the first canons also this is not an easy job and time consuming. But with sufficient patience this is possible. I udes CA which is vissible a little bit but I hope with some gloss cote this will dissapear. Well at the end of the day im not disspaointed it looks pretty nice and I had lots of fun doing these jobs. I hope the gurus here like to see the results as shown here on the pics. If anybody have some comments on how to improve a certain thing feel free to advise me im eager to learn something. Grtz Ray
  4. Thanks Elijah Im waiting for the oil paint to dry good. Eventhough I placed the oil paint on a carton for an hour or so it takes more than 24h to dry I think it would be better to leave the oil paint on the carton for about 3 hours so the carton can absorb most of the oils and only pigment is left it dries faster that way. I just took a look and I think tomorrow morning it will be dry and im hopefull it seems to be better as I thought. I was a bit pessimistic but even for that this forum can be helpfull when the gurus tell you it doesnt look that bad I think also tomorrow I wil l glue the hull and do a finishing touch on the canons so I can start with the lower gun deck. In other words I think its going to be a big day tomorrow Grtz Ray
  5. Thanks Mark thats a good idea too! I will let it dry good and will try what you explained. Thanks guys!!!!
  6. I was thinking about that too but Im not sure if a acrylic vernish will hold on this oil paint?
  7. well it is too shiny but maybe after drying that dissapear and i was hoping for a more warn out effect. Maybe a wash over this will create that effect. I started like this After the aint dried I painted it with oil paint a mix of dark brown and raw sienna. What I saw on youtube I looked much better as I have now. Probably I need a littl emore patience and see the result tomorrow if it is dry by then.
  8. Today I painted the upper deck but im not sure yet how im going to call it.....a dissastre or failure. It was hard working but at the end im not really pleased (yet). Here are some results. I hope im able to clean this up. Grtz Ray
  9. Indeed Ulises this thread I've read and it really explains very clear what dry brushing is. Just by reading it you should be able to make a decent attempt, at least I could. But good to mention I'm a rookie in scale modeling
  10. Its all a bit experimenting. I bought some styrene plate, cut a piece and scribed some plating. Than I started to test to see what works best for me. This is an easy and cheap way to find out what works without distroying your work See an example below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12912-weathering-a-copper-hull/ Grtz Ray
  11. Again a update guys I hope its not to boring for the people who follow this log. It was agian a bussy day. I was able to finsih the 28 32-pounders for the lower gun deck. I started with painting the hull as well, to get the color I liked I had to mix a little bit I took Revell nr15 and 16 and mixed them on a ratio of 7:4 to get the yellow sand color. I tried to make the gun rigging as well with some blocks and thread. This was quite difficult and time consuming. I think I will use these block only on some of the 18-pounders on the 2nd deck and on the 16 8-pounders on the main deck
  12. Hi Folks I've been trying some things regarding this weathering of a copper hull. I've done 3 tests. 1) Using the Humbrol Chrome Oxide with a gloss verniz. The result is vissible on th etop right of the test plate I used. As you can see this is a dissaster. 2) I used the Humbrol Chrome Oxide with Decal soft from Revell so you get a wash effect. The procedure works better but it is not the right color (Chrome has a different color while oxidized as Copper so makes sense). Result is vissible on the right bottom side. 3) I took a turquoise enamel paint and applied the dry brush technique. This result is visible on the left side. I think I will go for option 3 even though I really would like to use these powders as I have seen nice results but for this purpose I think it doesnt work. The turquoise has a much more realistic color for copper oxide. But if anybody has other opinions or ideas feel free to give them. Grtz Ray
  13. Thanks Mark, I hope you were talking about the first picture because the second picture is how the kit came. Only the lower gun deck doesnt have any planking so I tried to made them for myself. But I was affraid I would destroy the whole deck so I stopped after a couple of planks.
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