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Fright

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About Fright

  • Birthday April 18

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta GA
  • Interests
    Music, art, acting, astronomy and model building. Also the proud owner of a vintage 1966 Oldsmobile 98 Hearse for those "special' evenings out!

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  1. el cid @ Keith - thank you for your input on types glues. I'll pick up a bottle of the Tamiya liquid glue on Monday. I'll look into the tube glaze at my local auto shop. Thanks again!
  2. Here are two of the places where the hull did not align together properly. First picture also shows the difference in match up the keel of the ship. I used CA glue to bind the two hull pieces together. I then ran a bead of Testors tube glue all along the inside seam of hull to strengthen the seal so it will not open up when I drill to install wiring for lights.
  3. Yves - this is my 2nd Lindberg kit and I'm finding out that some of the parts do not align up. The hull seam at some points were almost 1/16" off and the openings for the anchor on the bow, as well as the opening for the propeller, did not line up. I need to do a bit of filling and sanding along the seam of the keel to get it smooth. As for the propeller opening, I used putty to seal the hole up. I will just drill a proper size hole when the time comes. I've looked up a couple of builds on this model and I noticed that both had the black waterline under the first rub rail, but both are missing the second rub rail that should be at the bottom of the black water line. NOTE: Both of the builds are pretty spectacular and I hope mine will fair as well. The kit that I have has what looks like a rub rail that continues around the entire hull. On the real ship, it appears to be a very faint line. The NANTUCKET letters go right above this line. The next rub rail is the line that runs along the top of the black water line. The next extending line on the kit is at the very bottom of hull which I believe helps stabilize the ship in the water. So, I will try my hand with some styrene strips to duplicate the second rub rail that runs directly underneath the waterline strip. Thanks for taking the time to respond and give me your feedback on Lindberg kits. I fairly new at modeling but compared to the Revell kit that I built, I can see a big difference in the quality of the molding. Cheers! This is where it appears to show that the black strip runs between two 'rub rails'. Am I missing something or am I over reaching on what I am seeing?
  4. el cid @ Keith - many thanks for answering and it did not occur to me that they could be protective guards for hull. I really dislike the fact that Lindberg makes no reference on their plans as to what each part is called. Really makes it confusing for someone who has little or no knowledge of what each item is that is going on the vessel! I will try to add on the missing bumper guard with some styrene strips. Thanks again for your help!
  5. On working on this kit's hull, I noticed a discrepancy between the extended horizontal ridge/line(s)? that run along the upper portion of the hull. I tried to look up what these are called and could not find my answer. On the real hull, there are two of these horizontal 'ridges' in which the black waterline (plimsoll?) is painted in between from bow to stern. On the model, there is only one of these extended 'ridges'. Can someone help with the name of these ridges/strips? The directions that came with this kit does not name any of the parts - everything is by numbers only and no written markings. I know this is economical for the company when it comes to printing but this does not provide anyone, especially beginners, with the knowledge as to what equipment was used on the ship. Very disappointing! Here is a picture of the actual ship's hull: And this is a picture of the kit's hull: I will try to duplicate this 'missing' strip with some styrene strips.
  6. After watching a program on Youtube about the disaster in 1934 where the White Star RMS Olympic cut in half and sank the Nantucket lightship, I started to look up the history of lightships. I then stumbled across someone's post of their model build of this same ship. I had never heard about these ships but I found the history and looks of them fascinating, and so I purchased this kit from Hobbylinc. On another site, I asked 'what year' did this kit represent? A gentleman by the name of Ron J, who is on the BOD for the Nantucket lightship, was kind enough to respond and said this was prior to it's retro-fit in 1960. So that gave me a start to research what colors were used on this vessel at that time. As of 1939, the USCG took charge of all lightships and, by 1941, colors were pretty much standardized (except lightship Huron, who's hull was black). Colors were: red hull with white lettering, white superstructure and buff (also known as spar) color stack, mast, lantern galleries and ventilators. So I will try to work with this color scheme instead of color scheme shown on box lid. I am planning to try to incorporate some lighting into this ship. By 'try', I mean to say that my electrical knowledge is Cro-Magnon basic! But again, a nice gentleman, who goes by the name of RCBoater, shared some valuable information about using a 360 LED sold by www.superbrightLEDs.com and a controller that simulates a lighthouse beacon, sold by http://www.bakatronics.com.
  7. Welcome aboard and your work on those figures are wonderful! Great work!
  8. Gary - your detailing is outstanding. Thank you for mentioning your use of copper tape on hinges. The 'light bulb" switch kicked in for me LOL I'll use this for fine detail work instead of cuttings from copper strip. Thanks again!
  9. Congratulations on the completion of your Bluenose. She's a beaut !!!!
  10. Really enjoying your work and photos on this project! Many thanks for sharing this one
  11. All of your carving work is exemplary - the stern of this ship looks incredible!!!
  12. MrBlueJacket - can you kindly tell me where you found this deck sheeting? I'd like to use this on an up-coming model. Many thanks!

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