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About Fright

  • Birthday April 18

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Atlanta GA
  • Interests
    Music, art, acting, astronomy and model building. Also the proud owner of a vintage 1966 Oldsmobile 98 Hearse for those "special' evenings out!

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  1. Thanks Ron for this post. I don't know why I have this fear of using an airbrush. I purchased a Master airbrush and have 3 guns but have not used it for modeling or makeup with SFX.
  2. Nicely done and congratulations on your build! I like the fact that you dulled down the red on this boat. I have no idea if this is historically 'correct' or not, but it looks fine to me. Cheers and here's to your next build
  3. Fright

    Nordkap 476

    I'll be following along on your build. So true about how kind the people are at sites to help others with information, tips, support along the way. Thanks to you and Landlubber Mike for the input that helped me complete my Bluenose. Looking forward to seeing this fishing boat come together! Good weekend! On a side note, here's my homage to the man himself, Dracula!
  4. Congratulations on finishing this wonderful build!
  5. Fright

    hello all

    Welcome LG to this world of talent and advice.
  6. Fright

    Recovering from injuries and infection

    Hoping you bounce back quickly from your setback!
  7. Wow! 42" in length. It's going to be a very impressive build!
  8. Bill - don't worry about being slow. I've got you beat on that one!!! Make room in the boat for me - I'll be following along!!!
  9. Thanks Ken for letting me know about the difference in glues. I was not aware of that.
  10. popeye - I was aware of Evergreen but I've not heard of Plastuct. I will look up their products. On the solid masts, there are three locations that have 'rings' around the masts. I imagine these were some type of metal supports. I was thinking that it may be possible to cut off these three sections on the solid towers, drill a hole thru them for the wire, and join them with the hollow tube. There may be a possibility that they could slip inside of the hollow tubes to form the bonding. Thanks again for shedding some light on this problem. Cheers! My look for work until the end of October. Aye, 'tis a good life, but they don't supply us with any rum LOL
  11. Jack12477 - My two 'beacon' lights that I will be using are 3v 3mm white Led with a slow flash that I ordered from Evans Design. On the site, he suggests that they be on their own power source to prevent flash leakage to any solids. He suggests using coin battery to power them. My solids will be hooked up to a AA battery pack. I tried to find the flash pattern for the Nantucket online but had no success. It's also very hard to find pictures of this ship that is pre-1960. Almost all are good quality pictures, but are taken after her retro-fit to diesel power in 1960. They do help in showing some of the deck equipment that were painted with spar. I downloaded the official USCG color regulations that say what colors are used on what equipment. With that, thanks for the feedback and have a wonderful weekend!
  12. Ozark - I started out using a strip of cardboard for a cutting mat, but eventually, I agree with Eric that a cutting mat for any crafting or future modeling is a good investment. I looked at a lot of posts and made a decision to use better quality rope. Like Jim Rogers suggested, I too went with Syren rope and make sure you use some good wax. My 1st kit was in 2011 and I've learned a lot as time has gone by. And yes, one can sometimes get overwhelmed with information. I am not even close to working with the masts, but a lot of people do suggest using wood for better strength - especially when it comes time for rigging. Another tip that I read and am using is, I replaced my plastic eye bolts with metal ones for the very same reason about breakage. I'm looking forward to watching your progress and don't rush it!
  13. Jack12477 - that would be awesome but, to tell you the truth, I have zip-diddly knowledge about wiring. I have no clue how I would go about getting my 3mm LED's to flash in that pattern! I've looked at a couple of posts where they used circuit boards etc. that are truly amazing, but again, way over my head. This is why I chose battery over AC - I'd hate to electrocute myself when I power it up LOL As for the beacon lights on towers, I originally thought they were in two pieces and I would run the wire up the center. NOT! They are solid plastic towers. I'm thinking that I may be able to attach the thin wire along the tower and try to hide it underneath the ladder that is attached to the tower. ? Last, but not least, I want to thank you for taking a look and your suggestion. Greatly appreciated! Have a good weekend!!!
  14. popeye - here's what I plan to use as my base. I picked up this 9"x20"x1.5" shadow box frame for $16.00 @ Micheal's. The AA battery pack and on/off switch will be attached on the backside of frame. Fits perfectly! I'm passing the electrical wiring thru a 1/4" clear tube (remnants from last year's surgeries) that will run from the ship's hull to the frame's edge. I will use a thin layer of Plaster of Paris (which I'm 'borrowing' from my wife's stash) to fill around the bottom of frame; paint and also use Vallejo's Water Effect Atlantic Blue gel to create an ocean effect. At least that's the game plan LOL This will be my 1st attempt at creating a water diorama.

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