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About gjdale

  • Birthday 11/28/1960

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    Canberra, Australia

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  1. Them Old Jokes

    Reminds me of this little rhyme: The Thunder God rode out one day, upon his favourite filly. ”I’m Thor!” he cried, The horse replied, ”Forgot your thaddle, thilly”
  2. I also have received nothing but excellent support from Alexey. Glad to see someone brought this post to his attention so that he was able to jump in straight away.
  3. Jim, I’ve had some issues with my 230V disc sander overheating. The motor will simply switch itself off when it gets too hot, Once it cools down again it can be re-started and appears to run fine. Only seems to happen if its been running for a long time, rather than in response to loading from the workpiece. Just thought I’d mention it in case it is a common problem with the 230V motors.
  4. Thanks for dropping by Aldo - so pleased to see you back on the forum. I just realised that its been 4 months since I updated this log! In case anyone was wondering, I haven’t abandoned this project - it's just been “on hold” while I’ve been attending to some 1:1 scale work building cabinets and storage in the garage workshop. Hope to get back to modelling again soon.
  5. What have you received today?

    Congratulations Ken.
  6. Fokker DR 1 Building log

    Well done! I particularly like the map on the base. And that’s an interesting tip about “nothing parallel to the edge on a diorama”.
  7. .... and that is precisely why I was recently allowed to buy a Sawstop saw - turns out the old saw used to scare the wife even more than it scared me. All I had to do was show her the video of the safety demo and she told me to go straight out and buy one! The Sawstop, incidentally, is a beautiful piece of machinery to use as well being that much safer. (It s also the reason there hasn’t been much progress on my model recently - been busy putting the new toy to work!)
  8. hey there Grant....Happy birthday!  hope you have a great day!  enjoy  :) 

  9. I’ll second what Bill has just said. I too tried to place an order a while back but had to wait until Mihail returned in October. I received my set last week and they are every bit as beautiful as others have said. Again, communication was via Google translate and payment via PayPal - both painless operations. Mikhail has been a thoroughly nice person to deal with as well.
  10. Have a look at this video by Paul Budzik (he is also a member of MSW). This and many of his other videos are really well done and explain things in a way that is easy to follow. Hope this helps.
  11. There is one being built over on the RC Groups Forum. Here's a link: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2680633-Amati-RMS-Titanic
  12. I’m not surprised at the AL numbers either Chuck. I don’t know if it’s the same in the US, but over here the few remaining toy/hobby shops all stock AL kits (and no others). Add to that the fact that most newbies to the hobby will want to build a “known” ship name (ie your list of half a dozen), and there is your answer. I do hope that the smaller new companies (like Syren) continue to make headway. The supply part of this hobby really does need to be dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st century!
  13. Thanks John and Danny, and also to all of the "likes". Not a lot of progress on the "mousetrap" this weekend as I spent most of the weekend making a Router Table and Holding Jig for my mill. However, some progress is better than no progress.... The installation of the harnesses commences with making the two rear wing attachment posts. These are fairly straight forward, and once again I replaced the kit provided parts with scratch-made parts from cherry. The lower back belt is then made from strips of leather and a small ‘key ring’ (for want of a better term) as the buckle. The leather straps are glued to the base of the rear wing attachment posts and then wrapped with thread. The shoulder harness is made in much the same way, although slightly more complex. It is fixed to the base of the neck ring, again wrapped in thread, and also the sides of the fuselage, where the straps are only glued in place. Here is an overview of progress to date: I have commenced work on the fuselage cross-bar, but will hold off on pictures until that section is complete. Suffice to say that my mill holding jig that I made this weekend worked a treat.
  14. Thanks Keith for your original post on this, and thanks Bob for the link to the Cam clamps. I've combined these two ideas to make my own holding jig for the mill table. The base is 19mm MDF - some scrap I had lying around. I modified Ketih's design slightly by using 1/4" aluminium rod instead of wooden dowels for the rear support. These are a nice fit into the T-slot channel in the Sherline Mill Table, so I've kept the original design idea of having these go right through the bed of the jig and into the Mill Table T-slot channel (for the same reasons that Keith gave). Two Sherline T-nuts/bolts are recessed into the table surface and secure the jig in the other T-slot channel. Then I incorporated the ideas in the video link provided by Bob, to create a series of "dog holes" on the jig base, to provide a range of options for positioning the cam clamps. In the video, he uses 18mm copper pipe - just because he had some lying around. Instead, I used some 3/8" aluminium bar stock - just because I had some lying around..... In the picture below you can see the layout. The 1/4" pins at the back are 1 1/2" long, while the 3/8" "dogs" are 1" long. The "dog holes" do not go all the way through the base - they bottom out at a depth of about 12mm. Then I made some cam clamps from the downloaded patterns provided as a link from the video. I made these in two different thicknesses in case I needed something thinner for small stock. Here's a pic of one of each. Again, these were made from some scrap plywood I had lying around. And finally, here's a shot showing the jig in action. The cam levers work surprisingly well. They are quick and easy to use, and the work piece is held extremely securely. The cam clamps show no inclination to back themselves off. In the picture, I've shown five clamps in use - in reality, two or three would likely be sufficient. The use of spacers, as shown in Keith's original post, is still a good idea. I may get around to making the upgraded cam clamps with built-in adjustable spacers - see the link following the video above if you're interested in this. Thanks again to Keith and Bob for showing the way here. This is going to be a really useful addition to the workshop.

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