VinceMcCullough

Members
  • Content count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About VinceMcCullough

  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chantilly, Virginia
  • Interests
    Both steel and sail.

Recent Profile Visitors

63 profile views
  1. I'd like to have his contact info as well. vince
  2. Allan is correct. The model of the FA at the Naval Academy museum is the basis for all existing model plans. I believe the model is still on display, but if not, I'm sure the curator (Don Preul) would be willing to pull it from storage if you decide to visit. Vince McCullough
  3. I've been silver soldering for several years now using a butane "pencil" torch purchased at one of the big box home centers (Lowes or Home Depot). For solder and flux I buy silver solder paste from a jeweler's supply. I use Rio Grande, but all of the online suppliers carry it. Like the wire, it comes in grades from "extra easy" to "hard," with increasing melting points. The paste itself is a mixture of flux, very fine solder power and an inert grease, and comes in a hypodermic style tube. For most small fittings, I take a fine price of wire and pick up just a trace of paste and apply it to the workpiece where I want the joint (the work should be as clean as possible), hit it with the torch and pickle it once the bond has been made. You can make EXTREMELY small joints this way, like soldering a .3mm ring to the end of a peice of wire to make a railing stantion for a 1/16 scal model. The pencil touch works for almost every job, as long as it's fairly small. However, if you're working with a larger peice of brass, use a regular plumbers torch with propane or MAP gas. I had to do this to solder blades onto a heavy propellor hub for a 1:64 scale sub. The hub was just to heavy. BTW, if you are looking for butane, the big box stores sell it where they stock the torches. Same kind of can that you use for lighters.
  4. I suspect that you have two problems. First, I've tried the type of solder that you are using, and also had problems with it. It seems to have a much higher melting point than the silver solders (ranging from "extra easy" to "medium"). That in itself is probably only part of the problem. The other is that copper is a VERY good conductor of heat, which is why ReverWare pans have copper bottoms. They distribute heat evenly over the pan. So I suspect that the copper is wicking the hear away too quickly for the solder to melt. Personally I would stick with silver solder. If you use the paste, you can put minute amoumts of paste on the tube, so that it does not spread out much. Vince McCullough
  5. As it happens, I've been working on the same kit. My dad started iy in the 70s an I've been working on finishing it. We also hane ANOTHER model from the same kit at the naval academy that is a repair project being undertaken by some mids. So I can supply some photos of both models. ALSO, it turns out that the original hand drawn plans doe the kit, which were probably drawn by John Shedd in the late 30s ended up in the Washington Ship Model Society's plans library -- which currently resides in my basement. I'd you contact me off-list I can arrange to get a copy of the plans to you by mail. Drop me a note at vjmccullough@cox.net if you are interested. Vince McCullough